UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Sloper on April 08, 2010, 03:29:42 pm
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To the right of Benign Lives there's a short wall with a large obvious curving hold in the middle. Sit start on the left and up. Almost certainly been done before but I'm wondering what grade 6a+ perhaps?
Also up and right of Tody's Wall at the top of a short gulley is a squarish dook end arete. It looks as if it's been brushed in the past but the top was scrittly and scary. Maybe only 5 but felt E3 as the landing is grizzly even though I flattened the landing a bit. Does anyone have any knowledge?
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Second thing sounds like Roman Orgy, E4 6b. Bonjoy maybe wrote something about it on another thread the other week. Him, JB and Somebody's Fool cleaned and climbed it.
There's some problems listed near Benign Lives in the new guide, although non quite match the description.
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I'd take E4 6b for the arete type thing it's funny how fear can make things seem very hard when they're not or give you the 'force' to fiddle when Rome is burning.
The arete on the right of the bloc with benign lives is a pleasant 4 maybe English 5b. The problem is about 10 or 15m right of this.
It's rather good at least ** although you could continue using the left arete all the way up which would make it a lot easier and not as fun.
The crux is the finish which is either a weird bunched up dyno that I couldn't do or a bit of a funny 'bump' using a small pebble. Of course the tall will just lank it.
There's probably an easier way of doing the top but that's climbing. A right hand sit start is also possible but I ran out of beans.
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Yes, that'll be Roman Orgy, as mentioned in routes cleaned thread. John Allen route, given E4 6b in guide. Grade seemed rather generous. More like E3 5c/6a or whatever that equates to in bouldering grades. A bit scary as crux is at the top and off a scrittly foothold, but otherwise very worthwhile. Like an easier version of The Alliance.
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Indeed that's the one, have sent you a pm. Amazing isn't it how you can bimble around at a crag for 20 odd years and miss things like this, real quality and a shame it's not clean with a nice safe drop out as I wouldn't fancy being a spotter or indeed falling off it!
I'm terrible with names and faces but were you at Frogatt on Sunday?
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Yes, I spoke to you briefly, then went off to belay Nigel on Strapadictomy.
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Ahhh, yes did he make it look 5c?
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5b. The guy is on fire at the moment.
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Sorry to butt-in.
On Todys playground, the sitter from dirty cave to balancy/crimpy exit on the far left of the wall. What grade does it get?
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it's one where reach makes all the difference, font 5 for the tall 6a+ for the short. Of course there are numerous variations which change the grade.