UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => the blog pile => Topic started by: comPiler on April 08, 2010, 01:00:20 pm
-
Chuck Fryberger interview (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/chuck-fryberger-interview.html)
8 April 2010, 9:17 am
Dave McAllister has made a quite extensive interview with Chuck Fryberger (http://www.chuckfryberger.blogspot.com/), then man behind Pure and the recently released Core (http://chuckfryberger.com/CORE_Home.html). Like I said, it's quite long, but also very much worth reading. I liked it.
You can find it here (http://pumpfactoryroad.com/index.php?option=com_wrapper&view=wrapper&Itemid=5).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-2512019480077874626?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Daila Ojeda interview (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/daila-ojeda-interview.html)
9 April 2010, 7:38 am
Pierre Delás from Kairn (http://www.kairn.com/article.html?id=1904)also interviewed Daila Ojeda while in Spain, shortly after her ascent of Fish eye, 8c.
Enjoy!
Back to Santa Linya. After Chris Sharma, I exchanged a few words with his girlfriend Daila Ojeda. At the foot of one of her new projects, "Digital System" she answers my questions in an improvised interview. In late February she made one of the best female performance of 2010 by climbing "Fish eye", her first 8c, at Oliana. Thank you once again Laurent Triay (http://www.triaylaurent.com/) for offering us some exclusive photos, taken during the successful attempt.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S77YUhUDTBI/AAAAAAAABP4/W6UVVpN8_qU/s400/daila1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S77YUhUDTBI/AAAAAAAABP4/W6UVVpN8_qU/s1600/daila1.jpg)
Congratulations for climbing "Fish eye" at Oliana. For how long have you worked the route?
First of all thank you! I worked it for a total of 2 months, especially this month of February when I had to really really get involved and to push myself hard. Before, the conditions were not good, windy and humid days. At Christmas, I didn't have that much time to try. At the end I got lucky and was able to succeed.
"Fish Eye" is a very long route(50 m), can you describe the style?
Yes, one pitch of 50 m, which goes to the top of the wall, very physical and very technical. The first part is more physical, and the final part a technical slab. In the latter part, you have to keep your calm and your balance. I fell twice on the last move. But if you go slowly and you believe... finally I did it.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S77YbcdZf9I/AAAAAAAABQA/0iFBViv7ZF0/s400/daila2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S77YbcdZf9I/AAAAAAAABQA/0iFBViv7ZF0/s1600/daila2.jpg)
What will you do next? "Digital System" (Ed.: 8c, Santa Linya)?
Yes I tried but it was wet all winter because it rained a lot. But today I came to this route because it is great and really motivates me. But I don't know if I want to do something challenging again, I want to climb for fun and recharge my batteries quickly by doing something new.
Your favorite style of climbing?
My taste is quite broad, but if anything, I prefer when it's slightly overhanging, with crimpers.
Your favorite area in Catalonia
Definitely Oliana. For the landscape, there are a lot of gas in the channels is very long, with a particular contact with nature... I also like Santa Linya because it is a very "fanatical" and we all tend to end up here, but I prefer Oliana. All routes that I have done at Oliana are 5 stars, from 8a to the 8c I did recently. Definitely Oliana.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S77Yj-JJU5I/AAAAAAAABQI/1P_Q4n2mTPs/s400/daila3.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S77Yj-JJU5I/AAAAAAAABQI/1P_Q4n2mTPs/s1600/daila3.jpg)
Do you climb outside all the time, or do you sometimes go to the gym to be able to progress on rock?
Recently only on rock. Sometimes when I have a comp in Spain I go inside, but never for projects. Plastic doesn't motivate me much. Rock above all.
What are your plans for this year?
Well, I would like to travel a little bit. We'll go to the US in April, then I don't know, back to Spain. A major project is to complete the house where we live and climbing with friends, go to Rodellar ... I have no specific project.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S77YrQopxQI/AAAAAAAABQQ/7Kr0KYbvlj4/s400/daila4.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S77YrQopxQI/AAAAAAAABQQ/7Kr0KYbvlj4/s1600/daila4.jpg)
A word about France
It seems to me that some of the best places to climb in the world are in France, especially Céüse, which is a favorite of mine, I like it a lot. One of the best sites in the world. There is also a new generation of French climbers who climb hard. And it's always a motivation for a girl.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-7053065931612231277?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Goldrake, 9a+, the video (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/goldrake-9a-video.html)
9 April 2010, 2:57 pm
From Alberto Malinverni, here's Adam Ondra working what became Goldrake, at Cornalba.
"I think it's possible" (http://vimeo.com/10777252) from Alberto Malinverni (http://vimeo.com/user3549551) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-7805548690195953134?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Fred Moix extends mega classic (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/fred-moix-extends-mega-classic.html)
10 April 2010, 5:28 am
Photographer Fred Moix (http://boulderinginfo.over-blog.com/) recently succeeded to add the obvious logical start to Fred Nicole's mega-classic Joyeux Léon at La Balmaz, Switzerland. Joyeux Léon was established back in '92, and was considered as the world's hardest traverse at the time. This traverse is now considered as a well-established 8B boulder/8B+ traverse and Pompon Léon, the new line, adds 11 moves, thus making the crux sequence much more spicy according to Fred (Moix) who propose it as an 8C in the old-school traverse grading or 8B+ as a boulder.
Source: Bouldering.info (http://boulderinginfo.over-blog.com/)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-6088152424608279367?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
P-Rob in Minnesota (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/p-rob-in-minnesota.html)
12 April 2010, 7:28 am
Here's Paul Robinson (http://p-d-robinson.blogspot.com/) making the 2nd ascent of Nic Oklobja's The Raven on Minnesotan sandstone. At 8A+, it wasn't a huge challenge for Paul, but apparently it's a high quality problem, as he calls it a "classic" already. Paul also makes an absolutely stunning flash of the amazing Team America, 7C+. Again, not that cutting edge in terms of grades, but the setting and the quality... Unbelievable!
Paul Robinson in Minnesota (http://vimeo.com/10848645) from Nicros Club-JA (http://vimeo.com/user2716397) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-9176768570869821734?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Nalle's Sisu-project (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/nalles-sisu-project.html)
13 April 2010, 9:20 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S8Q2-SzaC6I/AAAAAAAABQg/B4zL27aWSC8/s320/sisuproject.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S8Q2-SzaC6I/AAAAAAAABQg/B4zL27aWSC8/s1600/sisuproject.jpg)I know some think it's wrong to hype unclimbed routes or boulder problems. I'm not going to get into that particular issue right now, but let me just say, the Sisu (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sisu)-project is not going to be climbed soon, so you'll have plenty of time to forget about it. It looks amazingly cool though, not to mention how impossible it looks. So far, Nalle has been able to make one move out of ~11, plus almost two foot moves. Each of these, he told me, are ~8A in their own right. Yes, the foot moves. And the move he's done, is most likely the easiest (not counting the top-out). According to Nalle, this doesn't represent the next level, but rather the next, next level!
You can find the full story on his blog (http://nalle-hukkataival.blogspot.com/2010/04/sisu-project.html).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-7723439710383397760?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Foreplay? (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/foreplay.html)
14 April 2010, 7:28 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S8YWsl-cNgI/AAAAAAAABQo/lISNhSy8cdk/s320/Papichulo.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S8YWsl-cNgI/AAAAAAAABQo/lISNhSy8cdk/s1600/Papichulo.jpg)Despite complaining about feeling sick yesterday, and being generaly miserable due to bad weather, Dave Graham pulled one out of the hat today by doing Open your mind, 8c+, at Santa Linya. "KING OF THE CAVE TODAY!!! HOOORAYYY!!!!!!! One more route of the list in the cave, which is just GREAT". Now... is it just me, or is there just a tad of sarcasm there. It's subtle I know, but still. Let's hope Papichulo dries up fast. Dave is really close and time is running up. Come on Dave, you can rest in Stockholm. A Muerte!!
Photo: Dave on Papichulo. With any luck I'll use this one again soon.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-8272602985588144014?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Schidlowski climbs Adrenalin, 8c+ (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/schidlowski-climbs-adrenalin-8c.html)
15 April 2010, 8:20 am
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S8bL_wN86HI/AAAAAAAABQw/lpd9qNIbbbY/s320/martinschidlowski.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S8bL_wN86HI/AAAAAAAABQw/lpd9qNIbbbY/s1600/martinschidlowski.jpg)As "Daniel" wrote in one of the comments below, 20 year old, Martin Schidlowski has managed to make the FOTHFA* of Alexander Huber's Adrenalin at Karlstein in southern Germany. The FA was done in 2001 and the 2nd ascent by brother Thomas in 2004.
*First Outside The Huber Family Ascent(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-4548994280229341858?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Watch out for the Finns! (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/watch-out-for-finns.html)
16 April 2010, 6:08 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S8f-VDXt3nI/AAAAAAAABQ4/Z5NpdHl3YAs/s320/Andy.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S8f-VDXt3nI/AAAAAAAABQ4/Z5NpdHl3YAs/s1600/Andy.jpg)If I'd ask you to name two Finnish climbers, I'm guessing most of you would struggle to come up with a second name after Nalle. Being from Sweden, I'd do a bit better, as Finland does have a pretty good track record when it comes to producing strong climbers. The latest guy to watch out for is 18 year old Anthony Gullsten (http://andygullsten.blogspot.com/). Andy to his friends. During a 3 week trip to Switzerland last summer (then 17), he did 11 problems in the 8A-8A+ range, and the start of this season looks even more promising, with 2 8A's, one 8A+ and his first 8B, the 3rd ascent of Nalle's Hypergravity at Sipoo. He's also began working Nalle's The Globalist, 8B+. Here's a list of the hardest boulders in Finland (http://finlandbouldering.blogspot.com/). For now... Watch this space!
Photo: Andy Gullsten working The Globalist.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-3481330179469413329?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Nice action from Nice! (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/nice-action.html)
16 April 2010, 10:21 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S8g6FcqfPVI/AAAAAAAABRA/ojmKuFWiglg/s320/taillefine.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S8g6FcqfPVI/AAAAAAAABRA/ojmKuFWiglg/s1600/taillefine.jpg)The season has kick-started around Nice. At Castillon two notable ascents have already been recorded, both from the hands (and feet) of locals. Stéfanie Crouvizier repeated the very bouldery Taille fine, 8b+, and Enzo Oddo has made the FA of Les Griffes du Wombat, 8c+, a route bolted by Patrice Glairon-Rappaz. The crux, a section described as an ~8A boulder on small holds, comes at the very top, so it's kinda important to keep the powder dry while climbing the 50 or so moves before this.
Source: Nice climb (http://www.nice-climb.com/news2/show_news.php?id_news=636)/Kairn (http://www.kairn.com/news_escalade_71601.stefanie-crouvizier-secoue-castillon.html)
Photo: Stéfanie Crouvizier on Taille fine, by Phil Maurel (http://nice-climb.com/)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-6280859376133110639?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
A few questions to Martin Schidlowski (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/few-questions-to-martin-schidlowski.html)
16 April 2010, 11:35 am
Before his ascent of (http://www.blogger.com/goog_584200804)Adrenalin (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/schidlowski-climbs-adrenalin-8c.html), 8c+, the other day, the name Martin Schidlowski was unknown to me. Probably, this was true for most of you as well. I decided to ask the 19-year-old a few questions.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S8hLD0rCXYI/AAAAAAAABRI/xAuR3qiynRk/s400/x-tasy.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S8hLD0rCXYI/AAAAAAAABRI/xAuR3qiynRk/s1600/x-tasy.jpg)
Who's Martin Schidlowski?
I'm a student from Southern Bavaria who started climbing 5 years ago. My favourite crag is Karlstein, an area mainly bolted by the Huber brothers
What does this ascent mean to you?
A step further into a new level. First route in the German 11th grade.
Can you describe the route?
About 16 metres long, but only 2 metres overhanging. Tiny holds and even smaller footholds. 8b route to a not so bad rest followed by the crux. All in all technical and sustained.
What was the main difficulty for you?
To send it before my final school exams in May start and conditions get too hot.
Although the FA was done in 2001, yours was only the 3rd ascent. How come? Any theories?
It has been tried by some strong climbers, but not sent since it has a special character. You have to be good on small crimps.
What's next?
First to achieve good grades in my A levels, then 3 months time to climb. And getting some new quickdraws, because somebody has stolen mine a week before the ascent...
Well, good luck with that Martin, and thanks!
Photo: Martin Schidlowski on X-tasy, 8b, Drug wall/Karlstein (same section as Adrenalin)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-1375903925068234107?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Gaz Parry repeats The big issue (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/gaz-parry-repeats-big-issue.html)
17 April 2010, 11:37 am
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S8mcHY9DPAI/AAAAAAAABRQ/g5FKVgwtnyQ/s320/GazTBI.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S8mcHY9DPAI/AAAAAAAABRQ/g5FKVgwtnyQ/s1600/GazTBI.jpg)Gareth "Gaz" Parry has repeated John Dunne's 1996 testpiece The Big Issue, E9 6c, at the sea cliff Bosherston head, Pembroke. The route was made famous in the film by the same name, where John explains why he removes all the bolts to climb it as clean as possible, but he did use some stuck wires and a peg.
Gaz opted for a sportier approach: "I climbed it with all the gear in place so as a sport route really. All the old insitu wires are gone now and the peg is possibly very poor after 14 years in a sea cliff. All the wires are good and it is a safe route.", he told UK Climbing (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=52915)
The route has previously been repeated by Steve McClure, placing all gear on lead, and Adrian Berry, using Steve's preplaced gear.
Source: UK Climbing (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=52915)
Photo: Gaz Parry placing gear on The Big Issue, from the Gaz Parry collection(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-7921812791502562446?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Gabri completes the dirty dozen (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/gabri-completes-dirty-dozen.html)
18 April 2010, 5:57 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S8qfLH8JjJI/AAAAAAAABRY/fIaIovtk0xA/s320/GabriAD.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S8qfLH8JjJI/AAAAAAAABRY/fIaIovtk0xA/s1600/GabriAD.jpg)Yesterday, Gabriele Moroni repeated Action directe, 9a, at Waldkopf/Frankenjura, for its 12 ascent over all. This was the first Italian ascent. As always, I'll try to get in touch with the man for a comment.
Photo: Gabriele Moroni on Action directe (last year)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-2376051287067074183?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Gabri about Action directe (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/gabri-about-action-directe.html)
18 April 2010, 8:43 pm
I asked Gabri Moroni to comment on his ascent of Action directe. I missed him when he was online, but he was kind enough to send me a message: "I first tried AD once in October 2005...just one try to understand how difficult it was. I wasnt able to do any of the moves...
A couple of years after, I came back to Frankenjura in August to try it more seriously but after 2 days I got a small injury at the middle finger. I recovered a bit and I started training to get my fingers stronger. I came back in October for 3 straight weekends and I was very close. A couple of times I fell at the second to last move due to stupid mistakes or bad luck. I felt like I could do it that time but it seems it was not the right time.
Last year I couldn't try it a lot due to other things to do and no time to spend in Germany. I stayed one weekend again but I had very bad conditions...
This year I felt better prepared and stronger and after one day of rework the moves, I did it second try of the second day. when I got to the top sequence I was climbing like in trance... amazing feeling..."
Thanks Gabri, and, again, congratulations!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-3067395633557466485?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
2nd ascent of La guerre de nerfs, 9a, by Gérôme Pouvreau (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/2nd-ascent-of-la-guerre-de-nerfs-9a-by.html)
19 April 2010, 7:02 am
Kairn (http://kairn.com/news_escalade~71658.seconde-ascension-guerre-nerfs-9a-gerome-pouvreau.html#n71658)reports, Gérôme Pouvreau has made the second ascent of La guerre de nerfs, 9a, at La Verrière. The FA was made by Pierre Soulé in February last year 2009.
In total, Gérôme needed three days, with most of the tries ended on a difficult single move near the top. In the end, he figured it out, and he says he felt a bit like an amateur for not solving it faster. Could have been nerves, no?
Pierre Délas has made an interview (http://www.kairn.com/article.html?id=1905)(in French)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-788230828807960116?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Another 9a 2nd ascent by Iker Pou (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/another-9a-2nd-ascent-by-iker-pou.html)
19 April 2010, 11:20 am
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S8w8SSzp42I/AAAAAAAABRg/UJMPWcwJR3o/s320/domani1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S8w8SSzp42I/AAAAAAAABRg/UJMPWcwJR3o/s1600/domani1.jpg)Iker Pou (http://pouanaiak.com/cms/index.php/en/noticias) has made the 2nd ascent of Il Domani, 9a, at Baltzola, a mega resistance route according to him. Quite different to his previous two 9a-range 2nd ascents, Demencia senil and Victimas Pérez. Obviously this was a challenge for him, as it doesn't really suit him that well.
The all natural ~70 move route was opened by Patxi Usobiaga in 2003 and is described by Iker as an 8b+ into a 7C+ crux, followed by an 8a. He also says he found a rest Patxi didn't use and that he thinks the route, by using this, goes from hard to normal 9a.
Photo: Iker Pou on Il Domani, Pou collection(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-2292752790950028643?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Sweden's first 8B+ (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/swedens-first-8b.html)
20 April 2010, 6:43 am
Lone wolf, Stefan Rasmussen (http://blocv-vik.blogspot.com/2010/04/hourglass-sds-8b-fa.html), who's, more or less, single-handedly been responsible for the development of hard bouldering in the county of Småland has crowned his work with the FA of The hourglass at Björnblocket, for which he proposes 8B+. If confirmed, it's the hardest problem in Sweden, and a contender for the top spot in Scandinavia. Congrats Stefan! Great effort!
The hourglass 8B+ (http://vimeo.com/11054603) from stefan rasmussen (http://vimeo.com/user1625610) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-3345610222103069004?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
UKCTV: Jack Geldard interviews MacLeod and Fawcett (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/ukctv-jack-geldard-interviews-macleod.html)
21 April 2010, 7:10 am
UKCTV 2 (http://vimeo.com/10986577) from UKClimbing.com TV (http://vimeo.com/ukclimbing) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-8503840793246368407?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Firefight, 8B, by Malc Smith (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/firefight-8b-by-malc-smith.html)
21 April 2010, 6:19 pm
Malcolm Smith has added yet another hard problem at the Dumbarton boulders. Firefight, 8B, climbs the Pressure cave, then links into and finishes up Firestarter, 8A. Full story on the Stone country blog (http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2010/04/firefight-by-malc-smith.html).
Sources: Stone country (http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2010/04/firefight-by-malc-smith.html)/UK Climbing (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53043)
Firefight 8b First Ascent (http://vimeo.com/11089789) from Willackers (http://vimeo.com/user1228064) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-787813357049985991?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Firefight, 8B, by Malc Smith (updated) (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/firefight-8b-by-malc-smith.html)
21 April 2010, 6:19 pm
Malcolm Smith has added yet another hard problem at the Dumbarton boulders. Firefight, 8B, climbs the Pressure cave, then links into and finishes up Firestarter, 8A. Full story on the Stone country blog (http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2010/04/firefight-by-malc-smith.html).
Sources: Stone country (http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2010/04/firefight-by-malc-smith.html)/UK Climbing (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53043)
UPDATE: He's also made the FA of Grande tour, which climbs Perfect crime extension into Saboteur, to create an 8Bish problem. It took Malc roughly 4 minutes to climb. Must be some kind of record for a boulder problem...
Firefight 8b First Ascent (http://vimeo.com/11089789) from Willackers (http://vimeo.com/user1228064) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-787813357049985991?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Koyamada crushes in Swizzy (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/koyamada-cushes-in-swizzy.html)
23 April 2010, 5:17 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S9EswCQf0yI/AAAAAAAABR4/oP1rJAnRcTA/s320/daidagger.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S9EswCQf0yI/AAAAAAAABR4/oP1rJAnRcTA/s1600/daidagger.jpg)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S9EsqiSlRMI/AAAAAAAABRw/8cBOYJXfegw/s320/dainbl.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S9EsqiSlRMI/AAAAAAAABRw/8cBOYJXfegw/s1600/dainbl.jpg)
Dai Koyamada (http://koyamada.dai.hiho.jp/) took off on his month long trip to Switzerland about a week ago, and he's been crushing hard.
He quickly worked the all the moves of Toni Lamprecht's The Dagger, 8B+, on his first day at Cresciano and sent it on his 2nd day. He also mentions that he sort of got all the moves figured out for The story of two worlds, Graham's unrepeated "new standard for 8C" (most likely at least 8C+ by normal standards) but it sounds, like he's a little confused about where the start hold is, and I'm not sure if he's going to put any serious effort into doing the repeat. Later the same day, he went to Chironico, where he flashed Dr Pinch, 8A+. It's getting too hot in Ticino now, so Dai decided to go to Magic wood, an hour's drive to the north-east, instead.
At Magic woods, he did a fast repeat of Bernd Zangerl's New Base Line, 8B+, on his 2nd burn after working out all the moves very quickly. He had been on it briefly 6 years ago, but didn't remember much. Then on the same day, he went to check out River Bed, 8B, worked out all the moves and sent it, again on his 2nd burn.
Photo1: Dai Koyamada on The Dagger at Cresciano.
Photo 2: Dai Koyamad on New Base Line at Magic wood.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-3064206274245941074?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
La guerre des nerfs, the video (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/la-guerre-des-nerfs-video.html)
22 April 2010, 1:00 pm
Gérôme Pouvreau climbing. Enzo Oddo filming.
Source: Kairn (http://kairn.com/news_escalade~71683.dernieres-infos-verriere.html#n71683)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-7074040789583978843?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
This is bullshit. When's he going to mention Nige? #nigemania
-
Have you cracked open the Cristal already ?
-
Off to Egypt (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/04/off-to-egypt.html)
23 April 2010, 8:15 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S9H-yIHC-lI/AAAAAAAABSI/php4-S3uioM/s320/Hotel_7067_I_0195826.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S9H-yIHC-lI/AAAAAAAABSI/php4-S3uioM/s1600/Hotel_7067_I_0195826.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S9H-r8QRJII/AAAAAAAABSA/0J5rWJGnkM4/s320/flag.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S9H-r8QRJII/AAAAAAAABSA/0J5rWJGnkM4/s1600/flag.jpg)I'll be off-line for a couple of weeks now, scary, I know... No idea how I'll cope, but I'll try to pull through... somehow. I don't think there'll be any updates, but you never know. So, see you in 15 days. I promise to come back stronger!
In the meantime, check out my friends at Kairn (http://www.kairn.com/)and UK Climbing (http://www.ukclimbing.com/)
/Björn(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-3399833896637346468?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Shibadaang! No, ShibaDAAMNG! (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/shibadaang-no-shibadaamng.html)
9 May 2010, 3:47 pm
Isaac Caldiero (http://isaaccaldiero.blogspot.com/) making the 3rd ascent of Kevin J's mega highball Ambrosia at the Buttermilks.
Just got back from Egypt, so bare with me as I gather momentum getting up to speed.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-503013551935580631?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Melloblocco (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/melloblocco.html)
10 May 2010, 5:24 am
As always, Melloblocco was a success. 2455 gathered in the Mello valley in northern Italy for a fierce battle of the pebbles. Well, come to think of it, I guess "friendly" is a more suitable word here.
Not so unexpectedly, Adam Ondra dominated the men's field, sending 7 out of the 8 competition problems, as did Chloé Graftiaux among the women.
Sources: Melloblocco (http://www.melloblocco.it/?lang=en)/Kairn (http://kairn.com/news_escalade~71845.ondra-graftiaux-imposent-melloblocco-2010.html#n71845)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-1545982356086206816?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Semper Fi, 8B+, with the quickness (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/semper-fi-8b-with-quickness.html)
10 May 2010, 10:41 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S-fioryLI7I/AAAAAAAABSQ/nehVD6EIe1w/s320/Semper+Fi.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S-fioryLI7I/AAAAAAAABSQ/nehVD6EIe1w/s1600/Semper+Fi.jpg)Felix Knaub has made a very quick 3rd ascent of Markus Bock's Semper Fi, 8B+, in the Frankenjura. Boulderrausch (http://www.boulderrausch.de/easynews.php?action=show&id=155)writes that he came very close to sending it on his first try after working out the moves, succeeding on his next go. Two weeks ago he dispatched Riot act, 8B+, another testpiece signed Bocki.
Photo: Andi Barth on the problem, by Raimund Matros.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-1261964276928311644?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Time travelling? (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/time-travelling.html)
10 May 2010, 1:38 pm
In a recent (deleted due to the fact that I deleted the, very old as it were, news it was commenting) comment, someone asked me if I had perhaps gone time travelling on my holiday. Well... kind of, as I haven't checked any news what so ever from the "outside world" during the 15 days. I'm more or less up to date now, but I don't really have time to post any news about Ondra's trip to the UK (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2747), Jimmy Webb's 3rd (http://jimmywebb.blogspot.com/2010/05/first-few-days-in-western-states.html) and Carlo Traversi' (http://www.climbingbum.blogspot.com/)s 4th ascent of Suspension of disbelief in the Eldorado canyon, Dai's sending spree (http://koyamada.dai.hiho.jp/) in Swizzy (it's raining a lot there, but he's making progress on The story of 2 worlds), and so on and so forth.
This Wednesday, provided the ash cloud doesn't close down the airports, Dave Graham comes to Stockholm to host a couple of clinics. He'll be staying at my place, so I'm pretty sure we'll find time for a big interview. If the weather cooperates, and Dave's finger gets better, we'll go climbing as well.
Stay tuned.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-3048637487421595340?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Hampi and Badami guide (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/hampi-and-badami-guide.html)
10 May 2010, 5:21 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S-hAK2bhw5I/AAAAAAAABSY/C6f-zUVpwlw/s320/cover+page.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S-hAK2bhw5I/AAAAAAAABSY/C6f-zUVpwlw/s1600/cover+page.jpg)Rohit Chauhan (http://www.climbinginindia.blogspot.com/), a professional climber from India, recently published the first guide book of Hampi and Badami. The guide features more than 500 boulder problems at Hampi and more than 70 bolted sport routes at Badami.
To order it, contact Rohit: rohit.climber@gmail.com(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-4356481541782838327?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Crackoholic, the review (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/crackoholic-review.html)
11 May 2010, 7:52 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S-kKdIUrRZI/AAAAAAAABSg/YToU2Hc3UIM/s320/Crackoholic_dvd_091221(1).jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S-kKdIUrRZI/AAAAAAAABSg/YToU2Hc3UIM/s1600/Crackoholic_dvd_091221(1).jpg)This review is long overdue. Sorry about that, but here we go.
Crackoholic (http://crackoholic-eng.server2.wsy.se/visa_produkt.asp?id=732&t=Crackoholic+DVD,+%E4ntligen+%E4r+den+h%E4r!), by Jonas Paulsson and Mikael Widerberg, is quite different to most other climbing movies I've watched, and I've watched a lot. The style is somewhat similar to that of the classic Hard grit, in that it provides a historical perspective to the climbing in area. In this case Bohuslän on the Swedish west coast. We also get to meet and listen to some of the climbers who, through the decades, have been important to the development, of difficulty as well as ethics, and hear their thoughts on climbing and risk. As would be expected, these thoughts range from profound to cliché. Of course, there's also a lot of climbing, from moderates to FA's of cutting edge "death" routes.
So, some reflections:
- Being a Swedish climber myself, I really enjoyed the history part, as I didn't know much about it to be honest. Whether it's as interesting to foreign climbers is difficult to know, but why not?
- The footage is impeccable and you get a great sense of the stunning beauty of the area.
- I'd have preferred a tad less talking and more climbing, but I guess that's a matter of personal taste.
All and all, if you're at all interested in traditional climbing, you should get this movie asap.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-2411624390924501535?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Camargo Trice Colorado bouldering etc (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/camargo-trice-colorado-bouldering-etc.html)
12 May 2010, 6:12 am
Lot's of things happened in Brazil while I was away. Here's the important stuff:
- Felipe Camargo is already in Colorado, USA, and did Botslayer V10 (flash) and the FA of the sit-down-start version ("SBS" V11) on his second try. He also did Trice V12 in less than half an hour. While the weather isn't collaborating with Felipe, he is now preparing himself for the american competition Battle in the Bubble.
- Brazilian climbing champion Cesar Grosso did the FA of Salinas at São Bento do Sapucaí. It was repeated by Andre "Bele" Berezoski (O dia santo) and the given V12 (hard).
Here's video showing a little bouldering in Minas Gerais, in HD and with English subtitles.
SABARÁ [HD] [en] (http://vimeo.com/11550861) from Ricardo Cosme (http://vimeo.com/ricardocosme) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
As always, thanks to Yuri of Escalada café (http://www.escaladacafe.com.br/)!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-2919736655422234631?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Koyamada repeats The story of 2 worlds! (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/koyamada-repeats-story-of-2-worlds.html)
13 May 2010, 3:30 am
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S-tyGXCukqI/AAAAAAAABSo/4l8RyixXxmc/s320/Daistory.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S-tyGXCukqI/AAAAAAAABSo/4l8RyixXxmc/s1600/Daistory.jpg)Dai Koyamada (http://koyamada.dai.hiho.jp/) has made the 2nd ascent of Dave Graham's The story of 2 worlds on the Dreamtime boulder in Cresciano. The story links a crimpy 8B/+-ish into Toni Lamprecht's ultra physical wrestling match The Dagger, 8B+, creating a problem that most likely weighs in around 8C+ by today's standards.
Talking about Dai's progress on the problem last night, Dave said he really wished for Dai to succeed. As it turned out, he had already done it.
Stay tuned for more.
Photo: Dai working on linking into The Dagger, from Dai's blog (http://koyamada.dai.hiho.jp/).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-8969727476251718837?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Dave G in Stockholm (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/dave-g-in-stockholm.html)
16 May 2010, 6:29 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S--PZAKhQUI/AAAAAAAABSw/B_ACcB0PlGw/s320/IMG_1142.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S--PZAKhQUI/AAAAAAAABSw/B_ACcB0PlGw/s1600/IMG_1142.JPG)Dave Graham has spent the last few days in Stockholm, hosting clinics, showing photos, setting a route, talking a lot, chillin', and also bouldering a bit.
Yesterday, he made the 3rd ascent Houdini assis left, 8B, on Långholmen, a small island in the middle of the city. He's well psyched to return and try Stefan Pettersson's unrepeated "old school 8B" O.G version, though he's not at all sure he can do it (it's morpho). Other than that, the weather wasn't on our side and most things were wet. Oh well, he'll be back in July/August.
Photos: Dave Graham making the 3rd ascent of Houdini assis left, at Långholmen, Stockholm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S--PiS8WyAI/AAAAAAAABS4/kcz1tr581Wo/s320/IMG_1143.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S--PiS8WyAI/AAAAAAAABS4/kcz1tr581Wo/s1600/IMG_1143.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S--Pt3W3GpI/AAAAAAAABTA/_C8YOoZrosY/s320/IMG_1144.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S--Pt3W3GpI/AAAAAAAABTA/_C8YOoZrosY/s1600/IMG_1144.JPG)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-4303651846150082949?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
News from Swizzy (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/news-from-swizzy.html)
16 May 2010, 8:59 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S--yZeb_2KI/AAAAAAAABTI/uMZW_gsfqJU/s320/fisch_gross.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S--yZeb_2KI/AAAAAAAABTI/uMZW_gsfqJU/s1600/fisch_gross.jpg)A while back, Martin Keller (http://martinkeller.blogspot.com/) made the FA of the first part of his "fish project" in Ticino, Einohrfish, 8B/+. Now he's just waiting for the weather to improve so he can stat attacking the full ~15 move line, which will weigh in around... hard, that's for sure! Full story on his blog (http://martinkeller.blogspot.com/).
Photo by Angela Wagner (http://www.flickr.com/photos/angiwagner/)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S--zuUrN6JI/AAAAAAAABTQ/3XWk5tWs2h4/s320/Seppie.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S--zuUrN6JI/AAAAAAAABTQ/3XWk5tWs2h4/s1600/Seppie.jpg)Sebastian Spauwen (http://hibbum.wordpress.com/), who only had only limited time in Swizzy, escaped to Valais instead and made quick work of Radja, at Branson.
Photo from his blog.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-9207302185046302666?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Chabot & Bié on tour (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/chabot-bie-on-tour.html)
17 May 2010, 12:55 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_E8PfEO2tI/AAAAAAAABTY/RA-bfVrYimk/s320/armenia.png) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_E8PfEO2tI/AAAAAAAABTY/RA-bfVrYimk/s1600/armenia.png)Perhaps some of you remember the photos I posted a year or so back, showing crazy rock features in Armenia. Well guess what, Alex Chabot and photographer Sam Bié have visited the place.
After equipping loads of routes in Lebanon, putting up some new ones in the process, they moved on to Armenia, where they've put up a 150 MP and some sport routes.
In total, they have placed some 200 bolts.
Full story on Alex' blog (http://alexchabot.com/)
Sources: Kairn (http://kairn.com/news_escalade~71914.sam-bie-alex-chabot-armenie.html#n71914)/Beal (http://bealplanet.com/news/news_complete.php?idnews=276)/Alex' blog (http://alexchabot.com/)
Photo: Alex Chabot climbing the 42m Pixellisation, by Sam Bié(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-1779200747195551991?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Sharma's new project: Home improvements (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/sharmas-new-project-home-improvements.html)
17 May 2010, 4:11 pm
I had a brief chat with Chris Sharma today, basically just to check what's up. Chris says it seems like the season is kinda finished in the Laborati sector at Margalef "So FRFM will have to wait till the fall. At this point I feel I've had plenty of time and am more than happy for others to get on the thing. I'm still psyched to do it, so we'll see if somehow we get lucky with the temps. If not, tranquilo. Next fall a muerte."
So what's the plan for the summer?
I'll be at home doing some home improvements. We're building a climbing wall and I'll be going to the Arco rockmaster. We'll see, maybe Ceüse or Verdon or use the summer heat to bolt some new lines and have them ready when the weather gets good again. I'll also do my kids climbing camp in California in August with Yo Basecamp.
The kids are psyched and it's really good for me too, to do something to give back and contribute. Also it's cool to get a chance to spend time with my good friend Andy Puhvel, the founder of the camp, one of my best friends and the guy who gave me my first climbing class when I was 12.
Let's hope the fall and winter will be better than the last.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-8973188914380777786?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
The sends (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/sends.html)
18 May 2010, 7:12 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_I83lC4-LI/AAAAAAAABTw/aRPzBHNRMnA/s320/lesbeauxquartiers.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_I83lC4-LI/AAAAAAAABTw/aRPzBHNRMnA/s1600/lesbeauxquartiers.jpg)Here are some unreported (by me) ascents from the last weeks:
- Natalija Gros has repeated (http://philipperibiere.blogspot.com/2010/05/les-beuax-quartiers.html) Les Beaux quartiers (http://bleau.info/bouligny/854.html), 8A, at Rocher de Bouligny, Fontainebleau.
- Bernhard Schwaiger (http://www.schwaigerbrothers.com/news2009.html) has made yet another 8B+ FA in the Saalachtal. Invasions is a short, powerful and dynamic problem in steep terrain.
- Dai Koyamada (http://koyamada.dai.hiho.jp/) keeps delivering. Nothing that spectacular, but his ticklist is getting more impressive by the day, even though the weather hasn't exactly been on his side. Lately he has done Soilwork, 8A+/B, Baby mammoth, 8A+/B, and, I think, (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_I9N41-nZI/AAAAAAAABT4/uiPdbLlLZgs/s320/thestory.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_I9N41-nZI/AAAAAAAABT4/uiPdbLlLZgs/s1600/thestory.jpg)Conquistador, 8A+. Japanese is such a fascinating language.
I get the feeling it's very poetic, but unfortunately it makes the automatic translations very difficult to understand... About The story of 2 worlds, Dai says that it's not 8C for him, but rather 8C/+ or 8C+. If we'd call this 8C, most 8B+'s and 8C's would have to be downgraded. This is exactly the conclusion Dave Graham came to, but he felt, and still feels, that's exactly what should be done.
The second end (http://vimeo.com/11402664) from Pierre Délas (http://vimeo.com/user1764992) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
- Stéfanie Crouvizier has repeated (http://www.blogger.com/goog_1797102699)Ultimate doom (http://www.nice-climb.com/news2/show_news.php?id_news=643), 8b+, at Castillon near Nice and also The second end, 8b, at La Turbie (the route Enzo flashes in the video).
Photo1: Natalija Gros on Les Beaux quartiers, by Philippe Ribiére.
Photo2: Dai Koyamada on The story of 2 worlds. Koyamada coll.
Sources: Philippe Ribiére (http://philipperibiere.blogspot.com/)/Schwaigerbrothers (http://schwaigerbrothers.com/)/Dai Koyamada (http://koyamada.dai.hiho.jp/)/Nice climb (http://www.nice-climb.com/)/Kairn (http://www.kairn.com/)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-1882911324200033756?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
The Stickler (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/stickler.html)
18 May 2010, 9:43 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_JgoWsktVI/AAAAAAAABUI/cgl4fZzSZBY/s320/IMG_1121.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_JgoWsktVI/AAAAAAAABUI/cgl4fZzSZBY/s1600/IMG_1121.JPG)First in a series I could call "Things you didn't know you needed but you do" comes The Stickler, a must for every serious boulderer. For more information, visit their website (http://www.thestickler.se/en/thestickler.html), and while you're there, why not check out the topos?
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-5098622368315807509?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Birkett climbs The walk of life, E9 7a (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/birkett-climbs-walk-of-life-e9-7a.html)
18 May 2010, 6:32 pm
I don't know if Dave Birkett talks the talk, but he most certainly walks the walk. UK Climbing (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53474) reports Dave has made the 3rd ascent of James Pearson's ~50m slab test-piece The walk of life, E9 7a, at Dyer's Lookout in Devon. James made the FA in the fall of 2008 and Dave MacLeod the 2nd ascent the year after.
Source: UK Climbing (http://ukclimbing.com/)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-1278397730359738128?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Grit stoned by Wolff & Bollinger (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/grit-stoned-by-wolff-bollinger.html)
18 May 2010, 6:37 pm
Gritstoned (http://vimeo.com/11801798) from Florent Wolff (http://vimeo.com/user3494303) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-5480043324846933521?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Greifensee WC by Udini (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/graifensee-wc-by-udini.html)
19 May 2010, 7:48 am
Udo Neuman (http://udini.com/) has made an interesting video report from the bouldering WC at Greifensee.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-4631186880347711402?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Chris Sharma climbs Era Bella, 9a (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/chris-sharma-climbs-era-bella-9a.html)
19 May 2010, 5:01 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_QY0iuAQYI/AAAAAAAABUQ/gc9qDE3l3y8/s320/era_bella.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_QY0iuAQYI/AAAAAAAABUQ/gc9qDE3l3y8/s1600/era_bella.jpg)I know I said yesterday, the season was more or less over at Margalef, and a 9a FA at this point would sort of make this statement a lie... Fortunately for me, this ascent was made last week.
Era Bella is a big spectacular rig and, according to Chris, it could be the best route at Margalef.
Daila Ojeda (http://dailaojeda.blogspot.com/) jokingly says he did the route as a warm up, but the truth is he "wasn't warming up for anything, it's just that there are no easy routes around so, I just went for it Dani Andrada style haha".
Photo: Chris Sharma on Era Bella at Margalef, by Boone Speed (http://www.boonespeed.com/)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-8936991062226763903?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
A tribute to Patrick Berhault 1957-2004 (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/tribute-to-patrick-berhault-1957-2004.html)
20 May 2010, 6:40 pm
From Verticalmente (http://verticalmente.jimdo.com/)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-8296687667123022036?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
The walk of life, full story (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/walk-of-life-full-story.html)
20 May 2010, 6:52 pm
There's really no reason for me to do anything else than to direct you all to UK Climbing. They have the full story with plenty of photos and an interview.
What are you waiting for? Get out of here! (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53538)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-4346650497184936637?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
From shallow waters to Riverbed by Gabri (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/from-shallow-waters-to-riverbed-by.html)
20 May 2010, 8:04 pm
From Gabriele Moroni's blog (http://gabriele-moroni.blogspot.com/2010/05/from-shallow-waters-to-riverbed.html):
Yesterday I climbed this boulder problem called From Shallow Waters to Riverbed 8B+ in Magic Wood! This bloc was opened by Franz Widmer a few year ago and it's basically the sit down start extension at 7C+ bloc into the famous 8B The Riverbed! It's about 30 moves long so it might be considered a route or a traverse or whatever... anyway it remains a nice and hard climb!...
The always syked Gabri is now off to the Frankenjura, where there's plenty of hard stuff to try. Go get it!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-5688843936741332484?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Battle in the bubble, the video (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/battle-in-bubble-video.html)
21 May 2010, 5:36 am
The Battle in the Bubble - Boulder, CO (http://vimeo.com/11887976) from Zack Sticcs (http://vimeo.com/user3028823) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-3337897367931387305?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Nalle climbs Finland's hardest. From Core (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/nalle-climbs-finlands-hardest-from-core.html)
21 May 2010, 2:16 pm
Unfortunately, my computer has made a habit out of crashing every other hour or so. Because of this, I couldn't download Core, making a review somewhat complicated to make... Anyway, here's an excerpt from the movie. Nalle Hukkataival doing some of Finland's hardest.
BD athlete Nalle Hukkataival bouldering in Finland (http://vimeo.com/11808643) from Black Diamond Equipment (http://vimeo.com/blackdiamond) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-4701113319225931052?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Jan Hojer climbs Action directe (updated) (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/jan-hojer-climbs-action-directe.html)
22 May 2010, 6:31 pm
Today, I suspect Jan Hojer realized a dream. The 18-year-old from Cologne managed to grab an ascent (I admit it, I've lost count... could it be the 13th?) of Wolfgang Güllich's Waldkopf shallow pocket test-piece Action directe, 9a, in the Frankenjura.
I asked Jan to tell TheLowDown about his ascent and the process leading up to it:
"The first time I tried the route was in 2009 (autumn) because I was motivated in trying some harder stuff.... in my first session I managed to do all the moves and I was so psyched that I spent another day and the following two weekends in AD.
After my third session I could climb it with just one rest. Because I believed in being able to send it soon I came back last week and worked on it for another three days but the conditions were not good enough. Today I arrieved after 6 hours of driving and just made one try without any expectations and fell at the last move... after a worse second try I sent it...
For me a dream became true! I always wanted to climb AD since I've seen this beautiful line in 2005 when I did Slimline..."
Thanks a lot Jan and good luck with your next project!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-4100384258421102803?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Hemetzberger climbs Il Piccolo orso etc. (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/hemetzberger-climbs-il-piccolo-orso.html)
24 May 2010, 7:20 am
Roland Hemetzberger has made the 3rd ascent of Stefan Fürst's 40m super technical Il Piccolo orso (http://routebook.com/node/1147/il-piccolo-orso), 8c/+, at Sparchen, Austria. Stefan made the FA back in 1992, giving it 8b+, but the route repelled all contenders for many years and it was speculated it could in fact be closer to 9a. The long awaited 2nd ascent, by Adam Ondra, came in 2008. Adam figured 8c/+ was more accurate. Now Roland Hemetzberger, a 19-year-old local from just across the German border (Sparchen lies very close to the German/Austrian border) has made the 3rd ascent.
Meanwhile, another German speaking youngster, Jakob Schubert, also 19, had an amazing day in the Ötztal, flashing Schwarzer Schwan, 8c, and redpointing the short Brandy Tarte, 8c/+.
Source: 8a (http://8a.nu/)
It should be noted that some of Stefan Fürst's routes have yet to see 2nd ascents even though many years have passed since the FA, and that it seems the grades given are sometimes somewhat... stiff. A few examples:
- Watzmann ruft (http://routebook.com/node/1937/watzmann-ruft), Geisterschmiedwand: originally 8b, is now considered 8c (repeats by Ondra, Hemetzberger and Bendler).
- X-large, Massone: given 8c, unrepeated, as far as I know, and possibly harder
- Qui (http://routebook.com/node/1940/qui), Geisterschmiedwand, given 8c+ (1996), unrepeated as far as I know, and possibly harder.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-4713175548354469962?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
A video by Bernardo Gimenez (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/video-by-bernardo-gimenez.html)
24 May 2010, 11:13 am
Photographer (and now film maker) Bernardo Gimenez (http://www.bernardogimenez.com/) has made a 7 minute video in which we get to follow Argentinian climber, Danilo Pereyra (http://danclimb.blogspot.com/) for a day when he's working Chikane, a hard and technical 8c+ at Siurana, Spain.
Brilliant footage!
TheLowDown approves.
Danilo Pereyra in Chikane 8c+, Siurana, Spain (short film) (http://vimeo.com/11520818) from Bernardo Gimenez (http://vimeo.com/user1432914) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-6746556136724937330?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Hotel Supramonte by Nina & Cedric (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/hotel-supramonte-by-nina-cedric.html)
25 May 2010, 6:17 am
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_trQchmqHI/AAAAAAAABUY/E2YJWfPO8-U/s320/Nina.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_trQchmqHI/AAAAAAAABUY/E2YJWfPO8-U/s1600/Nina.jpg)Nina Caprez (http://www.ninacaprez.ch/blog/?p=822) and Cedric Lachat have repeated Rolando Larcher's and Roberto Vigiani's Hotel Supramonte (7b, 7c+, 8b, 8a+, 8b, 7c, 7a, 7b, 7b+, 7b, 6b+) in the Gole di Gorropu in Sardinia. Cedric, who narrowly missed the onsight on a previous visit, now fought his way up the whole thing with just one fall on the first 8b-pitch (he reclimbed the pitch from the start of course). Cedric's ascent was a perfect opportunity for Nina to reherse the route once more on top-rope. A couple of days later, the couple was back. Now it was Nina's turn to tie in on the sharp end. She only took one fall, on the 8a+ pitch, but swiftly reclimbed it and continued to the top.
Full story on Nina's blog. (http://www.ninacaprez.ch/blog/?p=822)
Photo: Nina Caprez and Cedric Lachat on the wall. Caprez coll.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-2624663042545002730?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Climbing and where it's going, by DW (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/climbing-and-where-its-going-by-dw.html)
25 May 2010, 6:55 am
Daniel Woods has written a piece about where he thinks climbing is going (http://danielwoods.us/?p=218).
I think this is a very complicated issue... and I suspect I'm not unique in this sense (either). On the one hand, if we by progress mean more difficult climbing, a significantly harder problem or route must get a higher grade, because it's on open ended scale. On the other hand, it's not always easy to know whether the thing you've climbed (this is even more true for bouldering) is just very hard (or easy) for you, for any number of reasons (body type, specific strengths or lack there of, skin type, flexibility or lack there of, style, rock type... etc., etc.). 8A for one person can be 8C or even impossible for another.
Also, as a grade is not a dot, but a span, how much more difficult must a problem be to warrant a higher grade? And again, how much more difficult according to who?
It's great that Daniel speaks up and tells us what he thinks. More world class climbers should do just that.
In the end, consensus is impossible.
Accept it.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-8378177133546536494?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
i'm just glad that daniels had the courage to speak out n put into words something that claude e. benson knew in 1902. i too hope other big names speak out n tell us something we already know. very brave of them
-
Jörg Guntram repeats The Hourglass (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/jorg-guntram-repeats-hourglass.html)
26 May 2010, 5:39 am
Jörg Guntram (http://www.baboonmaster.com/), on tour in Sweden with Tobi Kleemair, has managed to make the 2nd ascent of Stefan Rasmussen's (http://blocv-vik.blogspot.com/) great looking The Hourglass, ~8B+, at Björnblocket, near Västervik. Stefan, portraid in Shawn Boye's movie The Sends (http://www.tielma.com/thesends.html), has been working tirelessly for many years, developing bouldering areas around Västervik on the Swedish east coast. The Hourglass is his hardest so far, and a contender for the hardest in the country.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-8605669119101871496?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
The Dai Koyamada interview (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/dai-koyamada-interview.html)
26 May 2010, 4:53 pm
A couple of weeks ago, Dai Koyamada made the long awaited 2nd ascent of Dave Graham's 'The story of 2 worlds' on the Dreamtime boulder at Cresciano. The problem, which links an extremely crimpy 7 move ~8B/+ or so into Toni Lamprecht's ultra physical 'The Dagger', 8B+, to create what Dave, at the time, called "the new standard for 8C". It went more than five years without a 2nd ascent, and it wasn't because nobody tried it...
I decided to ask Dai a few questions.
All photos: Dai Koyamada on The story of 2 worlds, by Ikuku Serata
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_1Nze7eUJI/AAAAAAAABUg/Qq0ApFt3WFg/s320/Dai2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_1Nze7eUJI/AAAAAAAABUg/Qq0ApFt3WFg/s1600/Dai2.jpg)You have now climbed at least four problems in the 8C/+ to 8C+ range. Both FA and repeats. How would you compare 'The story of 2 worlds' to these? Is it possible?
It's difficult to compare, but I think 'The Story...' felt harder than those problems. Conditions during the ascent was bad, so maybe I would have had a different impression in better conditions. Either way, Dave having climbed this problem as long as 6 long ago is very impressive.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_1N257dh7I/AAAAAAAABUo/NwLWsUf0Spg/s320/Dai5.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_1N257dh7I/AAAAAAAABUo/NwLWsUf0Spg/s1600/Dai5.jpg)There is a lot of talk about grade inflation these days. Is it something that you have noticed? What do you think?
I don't think the grades are actually inflated. Perhaps the level of climbers as a whole has improved compared to the past. And this has pushed establishment of harder problems around the world, and may have resulted in the misperception.
Frankly, I'm fed up with the grading talks. My interest is not in simple numbers but rather in whether or not moves in a problem in front of my eyes is possible. That's all.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_1N9YqVKaI/AAAAAAAABU4/nSGLcoC2Y24/s320/Dai3.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_1N9YqVKaI/AAAAAAAABU4/nSGLcoC2Y24/s1600/Dai3.jpg)If I understand your blog correctly, you wanted to try some more 8C's. I know the weather was very bad, but did you get a chance to try any? What were your impressions?
Yes, I did try a couple: 'Big Paw' and 'In Search of Time Lost'. 'Big Paw' seemed impossible unless we had very low temps. 'In Search of Time Lost' seemed possible with more time and right conditions, but I couldn't climb after a sudden change of weather in the area. 'From Dirt Grows the Flowers' is a great line. I definitely wish to try it next time."
Every year or so, you come to Europe and make fast ascent of many of the hardest problems. Does this mean you could climb a lot harder problems if you had the time and the right conditions?
I think I should be able to. More time means getting more chances of having the right conditions. I wouldn't have to go out to the rocks and try even in the rain, like this time. But I also think that with less time you have a sense of urgency and that is a factor in bringing out more power and focus than usual.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_1N6P_Z1GI/AAAAAAAABUw/u_gI0JZwuZQ/s320/Dai4.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_1N6P_Z1GI/AAAAAAAABUw/u_gI0JZwuZQ/s1600/Dai4.jpg)Have you found and tried any futuristic projects here that you'd want to come back to?
There is an unsolved link project in the Darkness Cave at Magic wood that I want to try next time. There are lots of rocks, anyway, and there ought to be lots of unclimbed problems if you look for them. I wish to do those developments overseas, but it also takes so much more time than doing repeats of established problems. So right now, my hands are full with doing repeats abroad.
Do you have any plans to visit the US, South Africa or any other countries?
I want to visit many places and climb. I also want to go to the US and I am interested in Bishop, Hueco and RMNP as well. But I like Europe. What's important for me is not just the rocks and the lines but the whole environment around them.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_1N_zxchHI/AAAAAAAABVA/k2faFHRpOZ4/s320/Dai1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_1N_zxchHI/AAAAAAAABVA/k2faFHRpOZ4/s1600/Dai1.jpg)There seem to be many strong Japanese climbers, but my impressin is that most of what happens in Japanese climbing, don't reach media outside the country. Is this correct? If so, why do you think this is?
I think we can say the same thing from us, that there are many strong and promising climbers other than so-called 'top stars' in foreign countries (outside Japan), but there are little chance of knowing about them for Japanese climbers. The situation may be attributed to culture of Japanese media.
Back to the question, certainly, there may be many strong climbers in Japan, but there are only a handful of 'real' climbers. By that I mean most of the climbers who are said to be 'strong' in Japan are competition climbers who don't go out to climb real rocks. For me this is kind of sad. It may depend on what 'media outside the country' means, but I see that there are only few cases where a Japanese climber comes up as a subject in foreign climbing magazines. As I said before, that's because there are few 'real' climbers and may well be because of tendencies of media either in Japan or in other countries. You can find Japanese names and records occasionally in foreign websites, though.
You are starting (or have already started?) your own gym. What can you tell me about this project?
About 330 sq.m of bouldering only gym - really great gym, I think.
What goals have you left to achieve in climbing? What are you doing to be able to progress even further?
Of course, I always want to be stronger than I am now, but with age my big challange from now on will be how to maintain the performance at the highest level. And although I'm focused on bouldering and sport climbing now, I want to try trad climbing as well. In any case, I wish to be true to my own motivation. For training I just climb in the gym. But I climb kick-ass hard problems and volume! And I also do campusing occasionally.
Thanks a lot Dai, and good luck with everything!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-599545388485029327?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Jan Hojer on Action directe, 9a (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/jan-hojer-on-action-directe-9a.html)
27 May 2010, 2:57 pm
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-3959033306531734028?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Help Salavat Rakhmetov's daughter (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/help-salavat-rakhmetovs-daughter.html)
27 May 2010, 4:55 pm
Salavat's 5-year-old daughter, Zalia, sustained severe injuries when she was hit by a falling rock at a crag in Turkey. Surgery, treatment and transportation is very expensive, so please help by donating money, if you can.
The data for Western Union (currency account maybe later):
RAKHMETOV Salavat (Kipaevich)
63 ? 8399932
28.04.2009 - 28.04.2014
Moscovskaya oblast, g. Odintsovo
Read more on Mountain.ru (http://mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=4496).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-7860754294018512799?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Victimas Perez by Enzo Oddo (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/victimas-perez-by-enzo-oddo.html)
27 May 2010, 7:57 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_7Oabj2-KI/AAAAAAAABVU/CTo8XxiFouM/s320/EnzoVictima.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_7Oabj2-KI/AAAAAAAABVU/CTo8XxiFouM/s1600/EnzoVictima.jpg)Enzo Oddo has done it again. After five 9a-ish routes last year, Enzo has now done the first for the year by making the 3rd ascent of Victimas Perez, 9a, in the Raco de la finestra sector at Margalef. The route basically consists of a 30m of steep left traversing wall climb, roughly ~8c+ in its own right, up to a spicy 7C crux at the top.
Full story and more photos on Nice-climb (http://www.nice-climb.com/news2/show_news.php?id_news=647)
Photo: Enzo Oddo on Victimas Perez, by Dave Graham(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-2450596220289190293?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Jade, by Carlo Traversi (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/jade-by-carlo-traversi.html)
28 May 2010, 5:11 am
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_9QFPEO6JI/AAAAAAAABVc/rQk3nqFm4EQ/s320/JadeTraversi.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/S_9QFPEO6JI/AAAAAAAABVc/rQk3nqFm4EQ/s1600/JadeTraversi.jpg)Just a couple of hours ago, Carlo Traversi has made the 6th(?) (Woods, Landman, Robinson, Hukkataival, Schaal) ascent of Daniel Woods' Jade, 8C, in the Upper chaos of RMNP. What's remarkable is that Jade is rather (or brutaly) crimpy and..., according to what he told me, he doesn't crimp. Ever. I think that's kinda cool actually.
Carlo has had a great last couple of months with ascents of classics like Black lung, Circadian Rhythm and Suspension of disbelief, so that he would do Jade was no surprise.
Photo: Carlo Traversi cutting loose on the crux of Jade (not recommended). Traversi coll.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-2267463994932375983?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Two more 8B's for James Webb (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/two-more-8bs-for-james-webb.html)
29 May 2010, 10:09 am
Jimmy Webb (http://jimmywebb.blogspot.com/) is quickly ticking his way through the Colorado test-pieces. This month, he has dispatched no less than 4 8B's, 6 8A+'s and 10 8A's. Two of the 8B's, Top notch and Don't get too Greedy were done yesterday. Here's a video with Jimmy Webb and Brion Voges.
Colorado 2 (http://vimeo.com/12092347) from Jimmy Webb (http://vimeo.com/user1217114) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-5283167593682924947?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Carlo Traversi doing Jade. The video (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/carlo-traversi-doing-jade-video.html)
30 May 2010, 7:20 pm
... can now be found over at DPM (http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/carlo-traversi-sending-jade).
Not bad!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-4409193787132184192?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
8B+ FA by Nalle in Norway? (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/8b-fa-by-nalle-in-norway.html)
31 May 2010, 12:14 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/TAPNHSxXZiI/AAAAAAAABV0/L3YF3OXtgcg/s320/Buldring+Vingsand-474-3.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/TAPNHSxXZiI/AAAAAAAABV0/L3YF3OXtgcg/s1600/Buldring+Vingsand-474-3.jpg)One week ago, Nalle Hukkataival embarked on a roadtrip to Norway. The weather forecast looked grim to say the least, predicting heavy rain every day in the Trondheim area. This didn't put him off however, and apparently, and as usual I suppose, the forecast was not entirely correct, because today I got a report: "Rumour has it Nalle Hukkataival has sent the Diamanten project at Vingsand, giving it a grade of 8B+. This means it should be the hardest problem in Norway. Vingsand is a newly discovered area in Norway about 10 hours from the capital, Oslo. It's located in Trøndelag, and is a popular destination for the Oslo climbers, even though they have to drive 10 hours for it!"
I'll try to get in touch with Nalle, to find out more and hopefully get a photo or two.
Photo: I found this on Meningsloshetens galleri (http://meningsloshetensgalleri.blogspot.com/). I don't know who Pablo is or what he's climbing, but it looks nice!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-3864986386859684087?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)
-
Schubert is in the flow (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/2010/05/schubert-is-in-flow.html)
31 May 2010, 12:50 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/TAOv_paj5CI/AAAAAAAABVs/8Qxeb3TNhNw/s320/schubert.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_rtttvKia_z8/TAOv_paj5CI/AAAAAAAABVs/8Qxeb3TNhNw/s1600/schubert.jpg)Jakob Schubert (http://www.jakob-schubert.at/) is killing it at the moment. So much in fact that, a couple of days ago he paid Hades, 9a, (the underworld in Greek mythology) a visit, dispatching it on his first day of the year. This particular Hades can be found at Nassereith, Austria.
Jakob, who's still only 19, has had a splendid spring season, with ascents of two ~9a's, one 8c+ and three 8c's, two of which flash!
Photo: Jakob Schubert
Source: 8a (http://8a.nu/)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4249408367373156678-4273452216764966092?l=bjornpohl.blogspot.com)
Source: TheLowDown (http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/)