UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: KH on April 06, 2010, 05:36:03 pm
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Last year, Liam Fyfe succeeded on his project traverse of the Kennelgarth Wall at Dinas Rock to open South Wales' hardest problem. It's been given a tentative grade of V12/13, but really needs some repeats for confirmation. Only the very fit should apply!
The problem itself is a mean test of both strength and endurance, and whilst some of the moves aren't that hard, the finish links into The Riot, which itself is unrepeated and a fierce problem in it's own rights.
The wall had previously been traversed from left to right by Thomas Starke, a German and former 'local' who was an early developer of the bouldering at Dinas Rock. His problem 'Body Wisdom' avoided the crux of Gentle Jess and also the start of The Fat Cat Roof. Thomas, I believe, gave his traverse a french grade of 8b+.
I had hoped to get this up closer to the date but only got it off the memory card over the weekend!
Wife of Fyfe (V12~V13) - FA (2009-08-14) Dinas Rock (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8S9w-Wg4kJo#)
Also, apologies if you think this should go into the new problems section, but this is big news for the area and I think quite a few people will be interested.
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WOW big numbers indeed. Has any of the strong North Wales lot been down this way e.g Nodder/Davies/DingDong etc?
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I doubt it. I went to cardiff once could have been there don't remember anything.
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Ben and I have been. Its an impressive wall.
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WOW big numbers indeed. Has any of the strong North Wales lot been down this way e.g Nodder/Davies/DingDong etc?
On the SWBG.co.uk site it says that Pete Robins did a reverse of Body Wisdom at 8A+. I'm not sure of the details of his trip down or whether any other of the North Wales boys have been down. I'm waiting on Richie Crouch and the Scouse contingent to join me for the tour but you're all welcome. Just PM me and I'll meet you with plenty of pads and spotters!
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Impressive stuff from young Liam! Nice one for keeping us informed, we are keen to visit, although don't think anyone's really capable of confirming the grade for you!
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Ben and I have been. Its an impressive wall.
I dont remember this, was it when you had that big bag of rohypnol and I woke up in your front room with a big scar on my lower back?
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although don't think anyone's really capable of confirming the grade for you!
looks similar in style & length to Leviathan/Lothlorian at kyloe in. Fair drive from South Wales though.
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Keen to try Riot Act but not too psyched on the epic traverse! :spank:
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I spent loads of time down here last year, but didnt get to visit the crag. Even from my house (a mere 120 miles) this takes about four hours due to pain in the asre roads. Looks damn cool though - good effort.
Maybe one for the summer months...
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I'm in Cardiff, woud be happy to show anyone around, but haven't been on the problem myself :(
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cheers boys. would be great to get a repeat on my problems, and richie mate av a good time in font. and a big thanks to kev for posting my vids on his youtube. :beer1:
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Well done and nice avatar! ;D
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cheers mate. keen to get on your thing at pill box wall. be great for you to come down and try mine aswell.
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:bow: Good Effort Liam!
I have family that live very close to Dinas Rock and didn't realise this was here until very recently. It is a tidy little wall and the setting is great. Been trying to get down there every time I'm back in the area.
Cheers to the local crew that I met on my first visit last year, you were all very friendly and helpful apart from 'Tufa' the dog who tried to eat my ginger locks! ;)