UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: SA Chris on March 31, 2010, 01:43:17 pm
-
Due to having severely limited time now bairn has arrived, I'm contemplating building a woodie in the garage, some advice would be useful.
Looks like with some rearranging of crap I will be able to make a space approx 700 cm wide (between two roof beams) by about 900 high, is this a worthwhile space to work with? Or too small to bother.
What is generally considered the optimal angle?
Given the height, is a kickboard worth it? I have always preferred them, but never seen one on a woody this small.
The garage is mostly dry, but in the occasional deluge water leaks down the wall for a day or so. Marine Ply the material of choice.
From looking at the garage roof, it would appear that it is all supported on a length of wood that appears to be nailed to the wall of the house? It is slightly angled, is it held in place by a wedging effect, and the wood is just there for additional support? This is a bit of concern, especially as it will have the wall plus my weight hanging off it.
Thanks in advance for help on any of this.
I know a lot of this is covered in the old thread, but a lot of the links are fucked.
-
Looks like with some rearranging of crap I will be able to make a space approx 700 cm wide (between two roof beams) by about 900 high, is this a worthwhile space to work with? Or too small to bother.
Any chance of remeasuring (or just retyping :P ) those measurements?
-
cock. 700mm by 900mm. Next thing I will be building stonehenge 10" tall.
-
So, as wide as a fridge, and as high as, a fridge?
-
Fuck me I must be braindead. That doesnt sound right at all, will go have another look tonight.
Sorry.
(note to self, do not try and multitask, you are shit at it).
-
Mine is about 8 foot wide 8 foot high - at about 50 degs I'm not sure what the board length, could do the trig but....
anyways its not quite as big as I might have liked but I guess the point is that you make the best of what you have
and I use it a fair bit, especially with a nipper in the house and trips to the wall massively limited
50 degs is prehasps a bit steep for me when it's mosty crimps and slopers but it did maximise the board length and yes there is a kick board - you'd need pretty bug starting foot holds on a steep board if you didn't have one
if memory serves big Malc's board was very narrow and steep - seemed to serve him well... can't find the vid now but it's out there on vimeo somewhere
so all in all if you can get a board it's what you make of it and with a nipper in the house it's a God send
-
OK, did some measuring last night again - got a width of 175 cm and a height to roof of 245 cm.
There are beams I can mount the overhang on, as well as smaller (7.5 cm x 5 cm) bits of wood runnin horizontally (are they called batons?).
Could these take any of the weight of the woody, or is it better to run some supports diagonally to give it strength and minimise flex?
If they could take some weight it then if I used the second ones out and had a 20 cm kickboard, it would mean an angle of about 28 deg from horizontal. Any steeper and I would need to move shelving and stuff from the opposite wall to avoid impaling myself on a surfboard fin.
-
Do it. It's big enough for a board. Mine was a godsend after Dylan was born, it meant I could climb in the evening once he'd gone to bed.
As for the actual build details I think a photo of the space may be helpful, written descriptions are confusing.
My board was 25 degrees when I first built it and that was fine so a 28 should work. I don't have a kickboard, I don't see the point and it makes for simpler construction.
Marine ply is expensive, if you use a bit of DPC to isolate the board from the dampness then shuttering ply will be fine.
-
Do it. Any board is worth having. The last one I had in a bike shed in Holland was 122cm wide and 190cm tall odd. I could get two or 3 usefull hand moves going up and one foot move up. Not much but kept me nicely busy..
-
I think a photo of the space may be helpful, written descriptions are confusing.
(http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab54/rowiebee/chris%20pics/CHRS2198.jpg?t=1271272945)
Basically got the space from the beam to the left of the dark green snowboard to the right of the light green one and mounted against the wall to the right with the clock on it.
(http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab54/rowiebee/chris%20pics/CHRS2202.jpg?t=1271273049)
Shows the cross beams I wasn't sure would take much weight or not. Would mount boards up against the one with the wire running up to it if so.
-
If it were me I would do something like this
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Nsnp395PbOs/R_oUF5Tqv8I/AAAAAAAAAA8/mweKk02EZAY/s400/shelving2.jpg)
followed by this if you want to make it neat
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Nsnp395PbOs/SHdYX4rDdgI/AAAAAAAAAEA/J0rA4psIl34/s400/Campus.jpg)
Seriously though, do consider making a proper job of it if you can be bothered. You could easily design all the storage in behind the boards with a little careful planning (unless you have to fit a car in there).
The example above was what I did to allow us to retain lots of storage in the boxroom, without having to store things infront of or beneath the board. This makes it much more appealing when you want to train, as you don't have to have a tidy-up before hand
-
We used to fit a corsa in there, but with acquisition of 2 new bikes, 2 prams and 2 more surfboards, with one to come getting a car to fit was a long time ago.. Putting a campus board in woudl not be ideal for me, too injury prone. Plus I have a beastmaker already.
Was thinking with some plannig could use space behind for snowboards and skis, that would have to be moved from current place.
-
I didn't really mean a campus board, merely that you could maybe build a bigger board than you were originally intending, but with "I'm off to build some fantastic shelves" as your sales pitch for getting a bigger board
-
I like your way of thinking. If I extended it to the back breeze block wall it would really add in a whole lot of "storage shelf space".
-
See, I occasionally do know what I'm talking about 8) but not that often
-
http://www.facebook.com/# (http://www.facebook.com/#)!/photo.php?pid=63559&id=100000912646468
If this link works.. This is my campus board in my back yard, if you can see it lifts off the wall in one piece which is super handy, you could maybe apply the idea to that space or more of it and take the thing down after.
ps its not plug 4 crusher holds honest ;)
-
As if that was gonna work :whistle:
Stuck a pic on the other channel and will link when it gets authorised.
-
As if that was gonna work :whistle:
Stuck a pic on the other channel and will link when it gets authorised.
Just copy and paste the link and into the address bar and it'll work fine.
Nice piece of carpentry by the way, how much space does it take up when you're storing it?
-
It's a nice idea, but due to the shape of our house we haven't got any vertical walls of any height outside. I think if I can rearrange all the crap that's in there i can make it a permanent fixture.
-
As if that was gonna work :whistle:
Stuck a pic on the other channel and will link when it gets authorised.
Just copy and paste the link and into the address bar and it'll work fine.
You'll only be able to link to it since UKC don't allow embedding of pictures they host.
See the here for info on embedding pictures (http://www.ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/HowTo_Embed_Pictures_to_UKBouldering).
-
If you copy and past you can see the facebook pic.
-
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs495.snc3/27064_109911905715897_100000912646468_63559_3770543_n.jpg (http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs495.snc3/27064_109911905715897_100000912646468_63559_3770543_n.jpg)
Thats easy :lol:
-
As if that was gonna work :whistle:
Stuck a pic on the other channel and will link when it gets authorised.
Just copy and paste the link and into the address bar and it'll work fine.
Nice piece of carpentry by the way, how much space does it take up when you're storing it?
It was knocked up in a hurry out of stuff just lying about, so it turned out ok really. All i do to store it is turn it upside down and stick it in the cornr o fthe dining room, takes up space but not to bad, and makes a good towel hanger.
-
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs495.snc3/27064_109911905715897_100000912646468_63559_3770543_n.jpg)
Thats easy :lol:
See the guide I linked to on the Wiki above. You need to use...
[img]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs495.snc3/27064_109911905715897_100000912646468_63559_3770543_n.jpg[/img]
...and get the URL of the picture by right-clicking on it and selecting "Copy Image Location" or something to the effect. Why am I typing this again, I already wrote it in the Wiki article :-\
-
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs495.snc3/27064_109911905715897_100000912646468_63559_3770543_n.jpg)
Testies 1 2 3
-
Cheers Mr slackline.
-
A friend of mine told methat if you use a certain type of ply it's very shiny and slippery and results in loads of spinning holds, but he couldn't tell me which type it is. Anyone know?
-
We use birch ply for our walls, its proper bo and aint cheap but good.
-
Whats the tightest radius you can bend 6mm thk ply to... without any fancy steaming, kerfing etc?
-
Whats the tightest radius you can bend 6mm thk ply to... without any fancy steaming, kerfing etc?
Depends on the type of ply, method used etc etc etc. Hard to achieve this successfully in the long term without delamination occuring (esp if its in a damp old garage). Are you trying to build yourself a barrel?
-
YES, but I have drawn it up facetted as im pretty sure 4m is the tightest rad I can get .
(http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj228/eddiesniper/NewWall.jpg)
-
Is that Crouch spotting?
-
No! 3.8m is as high as I can take it, I want the barrel at about half height, I think!
-
just have a flat board at about 45 - 50 degrees, dont bother with fucking about with curves and shit
-
:agree:
-
Eddies, go for a curved board man, why make things easy its all about the challenge. I built this board at cliffs barn a few years ago (RIP) and tried to bend 6mm and it wouldnt have it. It would just rip and snap, and it was good quality ext ply. 3mm glued and stapled is the way, in the long term its quicker and easier to work with and do!
http://members.multimania.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/cliffsbarnthumb.jpg (http://members.multimania.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/cliffsbarnthumb.jpg)
-
just have a flat board at about 45 - 50 degrees, dont bother with fucking about with curves and shit
:agree: too
-
Prob with that barrel is that each of the strips on the curved bit will need additional support as they will be weaker, and will need additional screws and timber, adding weight, cost and time.
-
I like the look of your faceted barrel. Will be epic to build compared to a flat board, but ought to be nice to climb on.
How wide will the board be, you could always have a uniform overhang alongside it if there was enough space?
-
Yeah, id agree with that :agree: the faceted barrel would be better for fixing holds rather than curved. Would you not fancy an angled top board rather than vertical, you caould have a campus style finish then.
-
trouble is, if you built this curved board, everytime you go on it, you'll of wished you just put a flat board in about 45/50 degrees ;D
-
cheers for the advice guys, this is a lil extension to an already HUGE board room that I already use... so a barrel it must be.
Thought about the curve but cant make it tight enough (That South Lancs board looks good tho) and thought about the holds issue too etc etc... Anyway, I recon were deffo gonna go with the faceted board. I was and still ofcourse could but an angled top board on it but im thinking of nowt but dirty lil jibs up there to crimp up!
-
nowt but dirty lil jibs up there to crimp up!
Fuck that, crimps make the baby jebus cry. what we need is a dedicated sloper board.
-
Slopers are good... when you have a tendon injury from CRIMPING TOO FUCKING HARD!!!