UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Sloper on March 11, 2010, 03:16:33 pm
-
Had a quick look via the search and can't seem to get a good answer.
Planning to go there this weekend but high tide is around 10 am so if it's really tidal it's probably not the place to be.
Over to the oracle.
-
You don't say which bit of St Bees. Some area you can do stuff when its high.
-
The last time I went was in the Devonian period so I can't claim to have any real memory.
Basically is it worth going as a fat punter when the tide will be in.
Answers on the back of a cigar packet.
-
there are only a few probs that are covered even at springtide.we have turned up at all times and climbed.have a good weekend.my gran was born at st bees.i love the place
-
Virtually everything beneath Apiary Wall is non-tidal, as are the vast majority of the Fishermans Steps boulders. The route between them however does get cut off for a couple of hours at high tide. A late morning high tide is pretty good as you get a falling tide all afternoon - the sun only gets round to the crag around lunchtime anyway. The cracks in particular tend to be in better condition late afternoon.
Presume you're aware of the bird bans - Apiary Wall and Scabby Back and Fishermans Steps boulders unaffected but the direct approach down the Fishermans Steps themselves is banned. South Head boulders are also banned (Fleswick Bay okay but may be seeping?)
Chuffing-wise, routes on Apiary Wall have dodgy bolts and probably still seeping (they were last weekend), Scabby Back has better bolts and less seepage.
Enjoy...
-
Thanks for the update, i'll make sure that the guys avoid the banned areas.
-
Thanks for the update, i'll make sure that the guys avoid the banned areas.
South Head boulders are also banned
Oooops! I checked the Choadfax and apparently the South Head is birdbanned although it didn't say that on Tim's printed topo AFAIK??
On the plus side we didn't see any nests at all nor any birds (well one would hope not on the lads' bouldering weekend...).
-
I hadn't realised this either, don't remember reading it on the LakesBloc topo.
BMC says: (http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcCrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=146)
Restrictions apply from 1 February - 31 July. Reason - Nesting Birds
The area has very important Guillemot, Kitttiwake, and Razorbill breeding colonies and The RSPB have stipulated no access to the area south (right) of the route Army Screamers between the above dates.
Other St Bees bouldering areas:
Access to Fleswick Bay is permitted all year round, but only south of the inlet where the path meets the shore. At South Head the small bouldering area is accessable outside nesting season only.
And the 2010 update poster says: (http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/File/access_conservation/access_publications/BMC%202010%20Restrictions%20Poster.pdf)
St Bees Head:
This area is an RSPB reserve, the largest seabird colony in
NW England, and home to the only black guillemot
breeding site in England.
The main bolted areas at Apiary Wall and Scabby Back are unrestricted.
All other areas including Fisherman’s Steps are restricted – 1 Feb – 30 Jul
Bouldering:
Apiary Wall and foot of Fisherman’s Steps: unrestricted.
South of Fisherman’s Steps: restricted.
Fleswick Bay: south of inlet (where path meets the shore) – unrestricted.
South Head: restricted.
-
I hadn't realised this either, don't remember reading it on the LakesBloc topo.
It's not on the topo. With regards to the South Head I hadn't realised myself till recently. The thing is, particularly with the south head, the area is permanently frequented by Fishermen who are obviously oblivious to any bird restrictions and aren't going to stop visiting, even if they were aware of the bird ban. As such I can't see how people bouldering is likely to affect nesting birds any more or less than people fishing - obviously routes are a different matter.
Rules are rules, but you see the point.
-
For once Greg, I agree with you completely :lol:
-
...particularly since only a miniscule number of boulderers are going to brave the horrendous boulderbashing approach!! Top-tip: walk along the coastal path despite what the guide says.
Anyway there was no sign of any bird activity, especially compared to the headland north of Fleswick Bay which was utterly drenched in bird shite.
Greg we got good value of a Lakesbloc print-out, apart from 2 nice V3s in the Choadfax, by far the best problems are exclusively covered by your guide there.