UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Shy Ted on March 04, 2010, 10:08:58 am
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anyone know name / grade of varians problem at the tor? (left of hooligan)
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pump up the valium 7c+ is what I heard.
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i heard 8a+ at one point. feels pretty hard for 7c+ though
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One of Dan's problems? Undergraded? Surely you jest!
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My info says:
Pump up the Valium (7C+) - Start just left of Hooligan, stacking mats to reach the holds. RH on low undercut, LH on the obvious LH pinch/sidepull. Feet in the obvious egyptian then make the crux move to the crozzle undercut, then slightly easier moves above.
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Wasn't there a lower start that was going to be 8a+ ish but hadn't been done yet? Or something...
Were you there today Shy Ted? Did you see if Staminaband was dry?
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staminaband was a bit drippy but everything was drying out. we've had what 5 days of sun so all of the faces should be bone by the w'end
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Hey up, glad to see this getting a look in, i really liked the moves on this.
Yeah the start is a bit convoluted, i meant to go back and do it from a sit but snapped me finger, I'll get back on it when my limes disease kicks in for the year.
pull on as Rman described (pinch and undercling), whack in a drop knee with RF low in the break and left foot somewhere out left, but above the break. lock into the pockdercling and unwind on that, then there was a bit of an awkward foot move to get Rf up on something with lefthand on a poor crimp on the wall above, then a big move upto a 2 finger crimp near that pod with RH, then bust up for the jugs at the right of a little extra.
Probs slightly harder than pump up the power but it has a pocket on it which suited me at the time.