UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Ethan on February 12, 2010, 02:48:18 pm
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Not likely to be included until the 2020 games, but cool that its been accepted. And I believed that it will just be sport climbing but not entirely sure yet....
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I'd have preferred to see really fucking dangerous trad climbing myself, with medals awarded posthumously where appropriate.
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I'm not sure this is such a great thing TBH.
(my Money is on Ondra for Gold, and for our representatives to be from the Purple Ends gang)
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My money is on it being boring as fuck to watch.
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As boring as horse dressage and shooting??
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Hmmmm
On the plus side, one would hope our training facilities will receive a welcome cash-injection, and get better. The sports-science of climbing might well also further develop, hopefully filtering down to benefit all of us.
On the downside, our training facilities may get even more ridiculously overcrowded and perhaps overpriced, and some of the punters might even migrate to overcrowd our crags...
We'll see.
Can't see it being scintillating viewing. Mind you, long running races are in my view about as interesting as watching paint dry. And speed walking WTF?!?!!?
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On the downside, our training facilities may get even more ridiculously overcrowded and perhaps overpriced, and some of the punters might even migrate to overcrowd our crags...
I can see the Pro's and a few years ago I'd have thought this was a great thing and just what climbing needs. These days I think increasing popularity just isn't a good thing. Modern indoor bouldering walls where you have to have zero ability to get started are already attract enough fucktards. For instance, the Mrs was invited to go climbing for a work social. She cringed and made excuses.
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Yeah and if things go according to plan I'll be in the UK as I'll probably be the only person able to pass a drugs test.
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It's easy to criticise new starters but there are an equal number of twats at every level down climbing gyms. Many climbers think that because they climb they are somehow a bit special. I feel sorry for a lot of starters at climbing walls having to deal grumpy gits all the time....bit off topic I know.
I can't see it generating a massive amount of interest anyway especially if it's boring to watch.......which it will be. It's like watching curling at the winter olympics, you're not suddenly going to jump out of your seat and go "hang on a sec, I want to give curling a try"
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Fuck off! I always watch the curling. 8)
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It's easy to criticise new starters but there are an equal number of twats at every level down climbing gyms. Many climbers think that because they climb they are somehow a bit special. I feel sorry for a lot of starters at climbing walls having to deal grumpy gits all the time....bit off topic I know.
I think the distribution is skewed somewhat towards the beginner end. Climbing with ipods on, over, across wherever the hell they fancy. Not having any understanding of when they're in the way (or caring). Wearing sunglasses whilst climbing in a badly lit room. Trying to do pullups with their fingers through the pulley attachments for one armers. Falling off, getting back on, falling off, getting back on legs going like a windmill whilst a long queue forms. Coming to try and do an iron cross on the rings because they saw it once on the tv, how hard can it be? Never brushing anything. One at my Mrs' place of work turned up with a new rope to use for leading and top roping, he got it cheap so he did. It was a static line. Mention the word gri-gri to a beginner and sit back and listen for sucking in of air through teeth because some one with grey hair on UKC told them that they are certain death. Mention UKC to them and they get all excited. Throw in a red helmet and christmas has come early. I have I gone off topic yet?
Now I know I'm grumpier than I should be for a 24 year old, and that there are a few grumpy people / twats (me included) around but I struggle to come up with a list anywhere near that off the top of my head.
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Is this thread FACTual? Do we have a link?
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To be fair Paul I agree with everything you said. There's a chap that comes down my local wall who wears fingerless gloves to save his skin. I had to walk out the room when I first saw it as I couldn't stop laughing.
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I was once bought a finger torch and told "well it'll be good for seeing down the back of all those cracks and stuf". Yes love, course it will.
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drew:
http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=108&type=onlinenews (http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=108&type=onlinenews)
sweaty palms?
edit: thats from '07
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You sound like Cartman
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Is this thread FACTual? Do we have a link?
It's mentioned in this one for cricket:
http://www.reuters.com/article/idUSLDE61B01E20100212 (http://www.reuters.com/article/idUSLDE61B01E20100212)
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You sound like Cartman
Beeefffcakkke. I'm afraid I don't have the looks to match. If indeed you were talking to me?
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Paul, with your voice you could stand be hind me and we could do a double act.
'screw you that's not 8b'
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Paul I agree completely that those people exist, trust me if you think you have it bad you should try living in London the place is crawling with them, most of the people who work at the walls are the same. But I disagree that it can't have a positive effect on the sport. The more people involved in climbing and buying climbing gear/clothing etc the more money should filter through to supporting the top end. The more top end climbers recieving funding and therefore able to commit 100% to their sport, the more standards will progress. People like the ones you've described exist in all sports, they certainly do in snowboarding, skateboarding and surfing, but it is the money generated by these people buying products that supports the pros.
Admittedly this takes the manufacturers to commit to using a percentage of their profits to athletes, I ranted about this recently on my blog, hopefully one day it will happen and maybe having their athlete on an olympic podium might encourage them to do it.
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I visited some London walls when stuck at the in-laws, I hated it. I even got told off for getting changed (i.e. trousers) not in the changing rooms.
I completely understand where you're coming from. More people, more awareness greater funding at the top end. I just don't agree that these benefits outweigh the neg's. As Bonjoy pointed out on another thread there is a finite amount of rock and it can only take so much punishment. The fact that a lot of people may be introduced to climbing in a less than traditional manner means values such as not climbing on wet grit, cleaning your boots, brushing things etc. get lost and it doesn't take much of that to cause huge damage. Add to that increased numbers and access agreements will suffer. It only takes a few to spoil things for the masses.
Its a big gamble to allow more people to climb 'professionally' (Reading this back its at complete odds to a rant I had around 4 years ago)
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How is it going to be consistent and quantifiable from games to games??
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In London 99% of people don't climb outside and they never will. People teach climbing at the wall I train at and do not climb outside! Why is it a gamble for people to climb professionally?
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sorry bad punctuation.. Basically I was implying that I felt that you risk a lot of potential issues for what seems like a small gain (for a minority).
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I didn't find anything on the IFSC website recently, nor anthing anywhere else of consequence. Unless I've missed something this is a bit of a non-story. Where's our GraemeA with a quick reminder?
(http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2008/02_01/CillaMOS_468x352.jpg)
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My my, GraemeA does look good in pink.
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I didn't find anything on the IFSC website recently, nor anthing anywhere else of consequence. Unless I've missed something this is a bit of a non-story. Where's our GraemeA with a quick reminder?
Do you not trust Reuters then?
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As boring as horse dressage and shooting??
Now combine the two and you're onto a winner!
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Normally this is all done with much pomp and circumstance as with golf and rugby 7s last year. Doesn't quite seem to ring true at the moment.
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I visited some London walls when stuck at the in-laws, I hated it. I even got told off for getting changed (i.e. trousers) not in the changing rooms.
I completely understand where you're coming from. More people, more awareness greater funding at the top end. I just don't agree that these benefits outweigh the neg's. As Bonjoy pointed out on another thread there is a finite amount of rock and it can only take so much punishment. The fact that a lot of people may be introduced to climbing in a less than traditional manner means values such as not climbing on wet grit, cleaning your boots, brushing things etc. get lost and it doesn't take much of that to cause huge damage. Add to that increased numbers and access agreements will suffer. It only takes a few to spoil things for the masses.
Its a big gamble to allow more people to climb 'professionally' (Reading this back its at complete odds to a rant I had around 4 years ago)
Have you been to The Arch Paul?
I would still consider myself very much a beginner, (yet in full agreement about the muppets you described earlier)
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I visited some London walls when stuck at the in-laws, I hated it. I even got told off for getting changed (i.e. trousers) not in the changing rooms.
I completely understand where you're coming from. More people, more awareness greater funding at the top end. I just don't agree that these benefits outweigh the neg's. As Bonjoy pointed out on another thread there is a finite amount of rock and it can only take so much punishment. The fact that a lot of people may be introduced to climbing in a less than traditional manner means values such as not climbing on wet grit, cleaning your boots, brushing things etc. get lost and it doesn't take much of that to cause huge damage. Add to that increased numbers and access agreements will suffer. It only takes a few to spoil things for the masses.
Its a big gamble to allow more people to climb 'professionally' (Reading this back its at complete odds to a rant I had around 4 years ago)
Have you been to The Arch Paul?
I would still consider myself very much a beginner, i'm in full agreement about the muppets you described earlier being extremely annoying, yet those kind of people are present in most area's in life unfortunately!
However one of the reasons for me buying a regular membership at The Arch, is I have generally found it to be far more muppet free than any other indoor wall I have visited in London (although I haven't been to craggy island yet which has a good rep apparently).
The whole vibe of the place reminds me of one of the more hardcore weightlifting gyms I used to go to, when I was really into my powerlifting, it was full of some amazing powerlifters, guys that would compete across the UK (and some internationally i'm sure), it just had that whole "work hard atmosphere", like everyone turned up to achieve something, and they weren't going to go home until they got their stuff done.
The Arch kind of reminds me of that, which is why I like it, I turn up and the presence of all the people there better than me trying to improve and working hard on their own individual goals, spurs me on to do better with mine, which is cool :)
What I meant to write ^ previous one won't let me modify it!
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Respect my authoritar
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Roberto, sorry to not answer earlier but I was off skiing, spending the proceeds of introducing millions of new punters to climbing walls ;)
It's a none story. IFSC got provisional recognition in 2007 and then full recognition in 2008 (I think it was 08 but it might have been early 09)
UIAA was recognised in the mid 90's when the UIAA were in charge of comps, so the story is over 15 years out of date.
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It appears that there are many forms of IOC recognition and the latest was given on Friday
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/newsletter/newsletter.php?idnewsletter=11 (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/newsletter/newsletter.php?idnewsletter=11)
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An interview with the IFSC president.
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37265# (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37265#)