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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Percy B on February 02, 2010, 09:50:08 am

Title: Strong bastards
Post by: Percy B on February 02, 2010, 09:50:08 am
OK, its reached the stage where its time to ask the experts.... I'm in the midst of researching an article about who are currently the UK's strongest climbers. I need to compile a list of strong people, and I'm going mad trying to pull names from my useles memory. List criteria are below.

"To be counted as one of the UK’s strongest climbers you need to have ticked at least one, more or all of the following criteria:

A   Climbed Font 8b+ (there is no point in including route climbing in here as moves on routes are never as hard as those on boulder problems.)

B   Climbed Font 8b at home, in Font and at least one other country abroad "

So far in list A I have Malc, Johnny G, Tyler, Earl, Micky Page and possibly Liam Desroy

In list B I have no-one yet, as thats when I started to go mad. Seeing as I know how some of you love a list, I would appreciate any light anybody can throw on more names for either list. Please note that when you add a name I could do with some big numbers to back up the claim - a few swiss problems that have dodgy grades might not qualify you, although obviously confirmed Swiss dirt (Dreamtime, La Proue, Mithril, etc, etc all count cos the grades are right!)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: cofe on February 02, 2010, 10:05:17 am
So Tyler isn't in List B?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: TobyD on February 02, 2010, 10:12:34 am
Gaskins?

Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 02, 2010, 10:16:57 am
Mike Adams should be in list A? Oh and Dan?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Andy F on February 02, 2010, 10:22:16 am
Ste Dunning and Blackpool Sam on list A
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Plattsy on February 02, 2010, 10:24:16 am
Pearson. Is in one or both lists no?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: nodder on February 02, 2010, 10:31:51 am
Pretty sure leroy did 2 that were graded 8b+ in SA.  Names elude me possiblly Madiba?  Keith has font Gourmandise and swizz General Dissary, what about UK?

Assume the long problems in the cave count as routes? 

Hmmm good game
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Percy B on February 02, 2010, 10:43:01 am
If you're in List A, you're probably in list B anyway, but if you get into either then its all good.

Mike Adams - Tick (Brad Pitt sitter)
Ste Dunning - Which 8b+? Names please! Or should he be on list B?
Blackpool Sam - Real name (!) and numbers please
Keith - not climbed 8b in the UK? Or has he?
James P - probably gets on a list, but for what problems? Has he climbed 8b in the UK?

Nodder - assuming that long things in the cave don't count is quite right.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: cofe on February 02, 2010, 10:47:38 am
Keen Roof is 8b, no? Unless you're massive.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: nodder on February 02, 2010, 10:49:34 am
Dunning Dreamtime
Keen Roof 8b
Sam Edwards isnt it?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: benpritch on February 02, 2010, 10:51:28 am
neil dyer and pete robbins - silk cut 8b+ (parisella's)

Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: nodder on February 02, 2010, 10:58:30 am
Quote
neil dyer and pete robbins - silk cut 8b+ (parisella's)

Quote
Nodder - assuming that long things in the cave don't count is quite right.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Plattsy on February 02, 2010, 11:12:55 am
Quick Google of Mr Pearson suggests the following big numbers.
Wrestling with an Alligator 8B Maltatal, AT
Keen Roof (Font 8B) at Raven Tor.
The Ganymede Takeover V13 and The Great Shark Hunt V13
Vecchio Leone V13/14
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: John Gillott on February 02, 2010, 11:20:08 am
Ben Moon, Voyager SS 8b+?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 02, 2010, 11:25:48 am
Dan's thing Serendipity was reckoned to be 8B+ by Mike Adams.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: nodder on February 02, 2010, 11:35:55 am
Quote
Quick Google of Mr Pearson suggests the following big numbers.
Wrestling with an Alligator 8B Maltatal, AT
Keen Roof (Font 8B) at Raven Tor.
The Ganymede Takeover V13 and The Great Shark Hunt V13
Vecchio Leone V13/14

None of which are in Font or 8b+

Percy I don't reckon you had gone mad it is just a tiny list.  Can't think of any B apart from
Tyler (Take your Pick),
Mickey (Louis Armstrong 8b uk Dagger 8b+ Swizz Kehops 8b+ Font)
Maybe Moon (Uk Hi Fidelity,ace, Voyager, Black Lung 8b Usa, Hip hop Assis Font 8b) Not sure about hip hop think i remember reading that. 
What about Ryan Pasquil (spectre usa 8b, Ace Uk 8b, needs a font one)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: iain on February 02, 2010, 11:38:59 am
Tim Clifford
Matt Birch
I've certainly read about them doing stuff abroad, not sure about in the uk.

Wasn't there a thread on here a while back with lots of font numbers for people?

and since posting is going so slowly this morning I had time to find it:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=9659.185;wap2 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=9659.185;wap2)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: iain on February 02, 2010, 12:07:49 pm

The non-wap version:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=9659.185 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=9659.185)

maybe useful
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: chris_j_s on February 02, 2010, 12:38:32 pm
Stew Watson should be on list A . I think Memento has settled at 8B+ hasn't it?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: benpritch on February 02, 2010, 12:55:49 pm
neil dyer and pete robbins - silk cut 8b+ (parisella's)

i'll get my coat
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: uptown on February 02, 2010, 01:07:01 pm
neil dyer and pete robbins - silk cut 8b+ (parisella's)

i'll get my coat

I must be wearing the same jacket as you Ben.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Nigel on February 02, 2010, 01:54:08 pm
8B+
Malc
Earl
God (skins)
Tyler
Mickey Page
Liam Desroy
Pete Robins
Neil Dyer
Sam Davenhall (Kaizen)
Dan Varian (Serendipity is 8b+ according to Mick Adams, so therefore...)
Mick Adams
Steve Dunning
Ben Moon (Voyager Sit Start)
Tim Clifford (Singularity)
Matt Birch (The Swarm)
Stew Watson (Memento)
Tom Peckitt (Bulbhaul)

No others leap to mind, but that depends what you give stuff like Close of Business (MacClure, Bransby) or Staminaband/PUTP (Smitton, Simpson).

8B in UK, Font, Elsewhere
Moon - Ace, Hip Hop Assis, Black Lung
Gaskins - pretty sure he did Enigma before break, may have done Fatman & Pierre Philosophale too? Gossip
Clifford - Cherry Falls, Hip Hop Assis, Singularity
Tyler - loads
Mickey Page - see Nodder's post

Again no others spring to mind but you never know what people have done do you? Katz could be a possible if he has done 8b in Font? There's probably quite a few folk with, as in Nodder's Pasquill example, 2 out of 3, which as we know "ain't bad"! Keith is one (needs UK 8b), Danny Cattell another (Fata Morgana Bas in Font, Louis Armstrong in UK, think he only needs Swiss 8b?!), James (needs Font 8b), Chris Davies and Nodder himself (need Font 8b). Prob several others too, including likely faces such as Malc, Jerry, etc...

Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: nodder on February 02, 2010, 02:20:21 pm
Quote
No others leap to mind, but that depends what you give stuff like Close of Business (MacClure, Bransby) or Staminaband/PUTP (Smitton, Simpson).

If the cave doesnt count then surely neither does Staminaband/PUTP but at the end of the day dreamtime must be 20 odd moves how long is Close of business?  Gotta love the lines in the sand being drawn here.

Pretty sure Katz best efforts in Font are 8a+.   
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Nigel on February 02, 2010, 02:33:40 pm
I don't have an issue with including the Cave stuff, my query over Stam/PUTP & Close of Business was whether they actually get 8b+ or 8b these days! I don't see any value in rehashing the boulder problem/route debate, its silly. No doubt we agree there.

Poor old Katz.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: shurt on February 02, 2010, 02:45:35 pm
is this guy sam edwards from the uk?

didn't he do the island in font? this is according to neil h...
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: nodder on February 02, 2010, 03:01:29 pm
Quote
[is this guy sam edwards from the uk?
/quote]
 :oops: that will be Sam Something else then.

Quote
I don't see any value in rehashing the boulder problem/route debate, its silly. No doubt we agree there.



I think we might but they are not my rules... 

Quote
Poor old Katz.
 

Indeed
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Bonjoy on February 02, 2010, 03:02:36 pm
The Sam Edwards who did the Island is from Tazmania I think
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: BB on February 02, 2010, 03:12:05 pm
Hasn't Dave Macleod done some hard problems at Dumby?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: shurt on February 02, 2010, 03:42:46 pm
The Sam Edwards who did the Island is from Tazmania I think

Ok ta, so he's definitely not on the list... 

Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Percy B on February 02, 2010, 04:03:09 pm
Cheers for all the feedback so far. Very constructive - my memory is so shite....can't believe I'd forgotten some of the stuff mentioned. To try and clear up a few issues here, the list is just to weed out the truly 'strong bastards' out there - the people who can do really hard moves. 3 8B's home and abroad, or 8B+ are entirely abitrary parameters dreamt up by me to try and get a list of the real climbing monsters. I don't want to count link ups (like many of the cave things and Stamina band/putp) as whilst they are the living end to do, they do not have the hardest moves. Likewise, I know that there are a few freaks who can do insanely hard moves on boards, but they are not the people I'm trying to identify. It's simply which Brits have done the dead. It sounds like this Sam Edwards don't have a British passport so he's out....
I'm tempted to disallow Bulbhaul aswell, as its a link up of several hard problems, but has no really hard moves on it, and TomP has no other form at the 8b+ level...harsh, but fair, I think (puts pith helmet on and ducks down under the desk....)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Dhanny on February 02, 2010, 04:10:17 pm
what about that dave barrans..? didn't he do 8 ball, 8b?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Stubbs on February 02, 2010, 04:10:49 pm
So is your qualifier 3 8b's anywhere, or does one have to be in the UK and one in Font? I'm confused now... Hopefully your harsh insult will be enough to make Mr Peckitt crush something notable enough for you ;)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: nodder on February 02, 2010, 04:12:48 pm
Quote
[It sounds like this Sam Edwards don't have a British passport so he's out....
/quote]

Hes a different person, it is Sam Davenhall who repeted Kaizen, that was just me being a mong and confusing myself and everybody else.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Paul B on February 02, 2010, 04:17:45 pm
Quote
I don't want to count link ups (like many of the cave things and Stamina band/putp) as whilst they are the living end to do, they do not have the hardest moves.

but then do you disallow longer problems? If you're distilling it down to the purest/hardest moves then you might as well just list who's done the ace or any of godskins creations and have done.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: BB on February 02, 2010, 04:19:27 pm
Hasn't Dave Macleod done some hard problems at Dumby?

Sanction Font 8b, Dumbarton 2007
Perfect Crime Font 8b, first ascent, Dumbarton 2005
Super Size Me Font 8b, second ascent, Dumbarton 2006
Big Long Now Font 8b, Dumbarton 2008
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: cofe on February 02, 2010, 04:25:23 pm
Hasn't Tom done Cherry Falls? That's 8b innit?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 02, 2010, 04:29:28 pm
Hasn't Tom done Cherry Falls? That's 8b innit?

(http://i.telegraph.co.uk/telegraph/multimedia/archive/00877/money-graphics-2007_877781a.jpg)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Sloper on February 02, 2010, 04:34:57 pm
What about an article on bastards?

shirley that would be much more interesting.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: TomP on February 02, 2010, 04:37:07 pm
I'm tempted to disallow Bulbhaul aswell, as its a link up of several hard problems, but has no really hard moves on it, and TomP has no other form at the 8b+ level...harsh, but fair, I think (puts pith helmet on and ducks down under the desk....)

I really don't mind about making some list or not but I have to disagree with you point there Percy. You are right that it links two problems but it is only about 15 moves long of hard and fairly sustained climbing! There are loads of pure 8b/8b+ problems that are longer than that and don't link anything but are counted as boulder problems - not chuffs or links. I hope that makes sense.
I can't be arsed to get into a debate so do what your heart tells you my friend. Oh, and I've only done one 8b+ but I have done quite a few 8bs so that seems slightly unfair to say that I don't operate at that sort of level. Ok, maybe not a consistent 8b+ level. Wasn't too far from Monk Life or Kaizen when I have had only a brief go at each. Really need to get back to those! Sorry for un-necessary trumpet blowing/sticking up for myself.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Doylo on February 02, 2010, 04:38:32 pm
Hasn't Tom done Cherry Falls? That's 8b innit?

8a+ int it
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: nodder on February 02, 2010, 04:48:42 pm
ok just turned the corner into boredom.  Uks strongest climbers have either stoped climbing or dont want to tell you about it.  Give it up percy write an article about the ten best 7a problems or something.  I am sure it will be easier for you to sell it anyway. 


 :devangel: :devangel:
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Stubbs on February 02, 2010, 04:50:36 pm
  Give it up percy write an article about the ten best 7a problems or something. 

 :lol:

6a's would probably be more suitable to fit in with the rest of Climb!
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: SA Chris on February 02, 2010, 05:01:11 pm
I bet Percy regrets ever opening this can of worms.

Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 02, 2010, 05:39:07 pm
Quote
If you're distilling it down to the purest/hardest moves then you might as well just list who's done the ace

I hesitate to enter this debate but how is the Ace pure or hard? The hard bit is 7c+/8a.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Paul B on February 02, 2010, 05:47:31 pm
see if we can't even agree on the ace you're fooked.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 02, 2010, 06:08:29 pm
I'd wager the best method is for Percy to make his list, then remove anyone with a semblance of technique. That'll get to the real strongmen.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Stubbs on February 02, 2010, 06:10:32 pm
Oooh he's got his technical claws out now!  How about a list of people who have climbed 7B+ boulder problems in Daescents instead?  That would surely be a list of the best boulderers in the country  ;D
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 02, 2010, 06:13:13 pm
Now you're talking. Though I daresay members of the list I suggested wouldn't be much affected by footwear choice. In fact they'd probably all be scarpa/ chili sponsored - point proven? If it wasn't for the loss of advertising space they'd have gone the Marvin Bore route years ago
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: cofe on February 02, 2010, 06:22:02 pm
So, we're looking for people who've done one move 8bs in scarpas?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Paul B on February 02, 2010, 06:26:06 pm
or Boreals, I'm not that fussy...
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: GCW on February 02, 2010, 06:36:06 pm
I think a better question would be "how many people have climbed two or more 8cs in the UK?".
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Percy B on February 02, 2010, 07:12:03 pm
What about an article on bastards?

shirley that would be much more interesting.
Probably...

I can't be arsed to get into a debate so do what your heart tells you my friend. Oh, and I've only done one 8b+ but I have done quite a few 8bs so that seems slightly unfair to say that I don't operate at that sort of level. Ok, maybe not a consistent 8b+ level. Wasn't too far from Monk Life or Kaizen when I have had only a brief go at each. Really need to get back to those! Sorry for un-necessary trumpet blowing/sticking up for myself.

I said, I was tempted, not that I would disregard Bulbhaul simply because I haven't tried it, and it has been repeated to my knowledge. Statements like this seem to be the quickest and most thorough way to get to the bottom of things as your post so eloquently proves, so you're in the A list.
I bet Percy regrets ever opening this can of worms.
No way, its just a bit of fun, and a big help to compiling a list of candidates for my article - thats all.

How's about Barrans and FreeWilly? The way I heard Nedward was doing the dead in Font he might well be in a list by now?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Sloper on February 02, 2010, 07:40:52 pm
Doing the dead isn't something that he'll want publicising though.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Doylo on February 02, 2010, 08:13:14 pm
Doing the dead isn't something that he'll want publicising though.

Never heard of a publicity seeking necro
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: c.j.d. on February 02, 2010, 10:24:51 pm
Mr Peckitt  - I think an A list purely for putting it to the man!  I've obviously done bugger all - what a waste of life  :)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: dobbin on February 03, 2010, 08:04:21 am
Doing the dead isn't something that he'll want publicising though.

Never heard of a publicity seeking necro

Dont you remember Necro? he was brilliant (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4672.msg62964.html#msg62964).

As for Ned doing the dead, well, I know its been a long time at sea, but have things really gotten that bad?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 03, 2010, 08:14:02 am
Does he mean Lee? I know he's old, but...
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Jim on February 03, 2010, 08:39:31 am
necro had a split personality
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: DaveC on February 03, 2010, 08:47:01 am
This thread started off quite interesting, then became quite funny but now it's becoming quite strange!
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 03, 2010, 08:47:51 am
Don't they all?  :shrug:
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: DaveC on February 03, 2010, 08:49:22 am
That's quite a good point. ::)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Jim on February 03, 2010, 09:01:01 am
huffy was fucking strong
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: a dense loner on February 03, 2010, 09:06:26 am
and now he's just stronger. huffy you're my hero
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: dobbin on February 03, 2010, 09:34:04 am
Huffy is apparently current British grappling champion! waddage. Shame the other half of the split personality didnt go on to such great things (just touching bottoms for a living)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Jim on February 03, 2010, 09:53:27 am
at least hes enjoying his job (touching mens bottoms mostly)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: uptown on February 03, 2010, 10:21:20 am
Its just a bit of fun

I look forward to you calling me a weak bastard, before and after I've repeated Pilgrimage.
 ;D
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Doylo on February 03, 2010, 11:47:49 am
Does he mean Lee? I know he's old, but...

any holes a goal for that guy.......
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Percy B on February 03, 2010, 08:33:26 pm
So, my list currently looks like this.....

8b+teamers are:

Malcom Smith
John Gaskins
Andy Earl
Micky Page
Liam Desroy
Tyler Landman
Ben Moon
Dan Varian
Mike Adams
Stewart Watson
Sam Davenhall
Steve Dunning
Tim Clifford
Matt Birch
Tom Peckitt

The real heroes who have enough time, skin, patience, luck with Fonts weather and boundless travel budgets - as well as being reet strong are (to the best of my knowledge):


John Gaskins
Ben Moon
Tim Clifford
Tyler Landman
Mickey Page

Any more for any more? Eyes down for a full house.....
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Percy B on February 03, 2010, 08:35:06 pm
And Dense, its about time you degreased Nedward and let him out of the dungeon so he can get The Island done and get on the list.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Jim on February 03, 2010, 08:50:50 pm
does doing half an 8a not count then to get on the list  :P
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: hairich on February 03, 2010, 10:07:12 pm
no cause that would be a 4a
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: c.j.d. on February 04, 2010, 08:38:39 am
I was kinda hoping that someone would have done this for me, but as not, I'll do a Tom.

East Coker is 8b+ - its classed by some devotees as the most powerful of all the 8b+'s in there.  Also, I have climbed 'real' 8b's overseas i.e. La Proue amongst others.  I've not done the deed in font, but have climbed 8a+ there (I know - no thrills there!).

I think that bouldering 8b+ in the UK counts for alot - its way harder because there are so many critics in the UK, therefore its not a grade people are willing to throw around (thus the original split grade for EC (8b/+).  Also, some of the contenders on this list - the problems that were 8b+ overseas when they were ascended are now 8a+/b, but hey ho.

I've propably climbed alot more 8b's than most of the people on this list, and out of a resume of around 80+ problems of 8a and above, probably a quarter of these are over 8a+ i.e. 8b>.

Anyway, sorry about that  :-[   I just felt the urge.  Stop - carry on.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 04, 2010, 11:55:50 am
Hadn't forgotten you c.j.d. just thought you'd like to blow your own, as it were.  :P ;)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 04, 2010, 11:56:12 am
And Dense, its about time you degreased Nedward and let him out of the dungeon so he can get The Island done and get on the list.

Cough, The Big Island
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: nik at work on February 04, 2010, 11:56:52 am
C.J.D. I think your post just crashed UKB for three hours. Maybe UKB is sentient and was disgruntled by the injustice of it all?

 :)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: SA Chris on February 04, 2010, 12:15:41 pm
Glad it wasn't just me. I thought I had been blocked by work.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: slackline on February 04, 2010, 12:18:16 pm
Glad it wasn't just me. I thought I had been blocked by work.

Get yourself on Twitter and keep up to date (assuming its not blocked of course!).
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 04, 2010, 12:35:29 pm
What @enilkcals said.  ;)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: nodder on February 04, 2010, 12:38:17 pm
I beat CJD in an armwrestle
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: JamesD on February 04, 2010, 12:43:41 pm
The guy at The Arch last night who humbled me, his mates, and most onlookers...by Dynoing up a V8, I think its fair to say that we were all pretty damn impressed!
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: account_inactive on February 04, 2010, 12:44:57 pm
The guy at The Arch last night who humbled me, his mates, and most onlookers...by Dynoing up a V8, I think its fair to say that we were all pretty damn impressed!
?

Does this guy climb 8b or just V8's without his feet?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Jim on February 04, 2010, 01:42:19 pm
was it skyler weeks?
Dynoing a v8 does not qualify as being a strong bastard
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 04, 2010, 01:46:40 pm
The guy at The Arch last night who humbled me, his mates, and most onlookers...by Dynoing up a V8, I think its fair to say that we were all pretty damn impressed!

 :shrug:
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Plattsy on February 04, 2010, 01:48:51 pm
The guy at The Arch last night who humbled me, his mates, and most onlookers...by Dynoing up a V8, I think its fair to say that we were all pretty damn impressed!

In case you're not aware JamesD. This thread is about stuff V13 and upwards. Try googling for a bouldering grades conversion table.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: dobbin on February 04, 2010, 03:24:05 pm
Besides, this guy sounds like goon. He jumped past the meat of the problem!
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: c.j.d. on February 04, 2010, 03:32:34 pm
Cheers Mr Sharpe, and what an outstanding one it is to blow.

Nodder has indeed beat me in an arm wrestle, along with the rest of the world, although beating Mr Higginson at the same sport probably is about 8b+!  Nice one Dave.

I'll take 8b+ for anything :)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Ru on February 04, 2010, 04:41:03 pm
Can I just say Chris, I'm loving the blog.  ;)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Rocksteady on February 04, 2010, 04:45:55 pm
Percy is this really for an article or are you making a T-Shirt with 'Strong Bastards' listed on it?  8)

Because that would be a bad-ass T-shirt. Just wearing it while climbing would add a font number grade I reckon.



Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: JamesD on February 04, 2010, 05:15:01 pm
Besides, this guy sounds like goon. He jumped past the meat of the problem!

He was only joking around because one of his friends said, oh its too slippery I think it needs a brush, so (I think) to prove him wrong in a funny way he just launched halfway up it, and was like too slippery? you're havin a laugh mate!
Or something like that, anyways just wanted to share, I realize it is slightly off topic, but living in London and working 6-7 days a week, means that fun times at the indoor wall are the closest I get to bouldering related excitement, until I visit France in April, apologies if it offended anyone.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Paul B on February 04, 2010, 05:22:15 pm
Quote from: Grimer
Jimmy Puttrell
Claude Franklin
Ivar Berg
Chuck Pratt
Warren Harding
Jim Birkett
Jammin Whillans
Wolfgang Gullich
Arthur Dolphin
Aleister Crowley
Pete Crew
Walter B
Pete Kirton
Sir Pat
Chris Bonners
Tom Patey
Martin Boysen's in the house, yeah
Joe Brown in the house
Hot Henry in the house
John Allen is in the house
Hank Pasquill
Tom Proctor
Pete Livesey
Marc le Menestrel
Calvin Torrans
Eddie Cooper
Crispin Waddy
Moose Thomas
Bob Smith
John Redhead
Ray Kay
Lucy Creamer
Ron Fawcett in the house
Nick Dixon's in the house
Johnny Dawes's in he house
Jerry Moffatt in the house, yeah
Malcolm Smith
Steve MaClure
Mark Sharratt
Sandrine Levet
Chris Sharma
Fat Boy in the house
Pete Robins in the house
Ben Bransby's in the house, yeah

I want a T with some kind of Rizla motif that reads "Godskins" or something similar...
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Jim on February 04, 2010, 05:26:19 pm
Besides, this guy sounds like goon. He jumped past the meat of the problem!

He was only joking around because one of his friends said, oh its too slippery I think it needs a brush, so (I think) to prove him wrong in a funny way he just launched halfway up it, and was like too slippery? you're havin a laugh mate!
Or something like that, anyways just wanted to share, I realize it is slightly off topic, but living in London and working 6-7 days a week, means that fun times at the indoor wall are the closest I get to bouldering related excitement, until I visit France in April, apologies if it offended anyone.
not offensive but just massively  :off:
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Doylo on February 04, 2010, 05:27:11 pm
I'll take 8b+ for anything :)

You'll take 8b for blowing your nose!  ;)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 04, 2010, 05:38:38 pm
Isn't Nik's wall 8b+?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: slackline on February 04, 2010, 05:59:36 pm
Isn't Nik's wall 8b+?

(http://elouai.com/images/yahoo/27.gif)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Baron on February 04, 2010, 06:01:46 pm
Girls?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Fiend on February 04, 2010, 06:55:01 pm
...are too weak to climb hard.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Percy B on February 04, 2010, 07:57:03 pm
Sorry Chris! That's why this thread is in existence though - cos I'm too thick to remember who's done what and when. It ain't trumpet blowing - its helping me to try to write some slightly more accurate tripe than my usual bollocks....

So, 16 British men have climbed 8b+ or harder. Any more?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Whyatt on February 04, 2010, 08:23:39 pm
C.j.d on the list defo East coker is sick!
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: hairich on February 04, 2010, 10:56:26 pm
grimer ben and jerry have been in my house at the same time.why no list for me
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: fatdoc on February 04, 2010, 11:17:12 pm
forum seems to be crashing alot..as the new owners take charge.
I've never met cjd.. seen the vids... frankly those more in the know should have recognised the chap - he fits more of the criteria than most - and does a shitload of new stuff (  a parameter that needs to be factored in as this takes a massive amount of time )
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Paul B on February 04, 2010, 11:18:05 pm
he's only recently returned though. I'm sure he's not the only person we've overlooked by accident.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Krank on February 05, 2010, 08:45:09 am
Done much abroad Paul?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 05, 2010, 08:51:38 am
This isn't a thread about multi pitch trad routes.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: T_B on February 05, 2010, 11:18:00 am
rich simpson?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Doylo on February 05, 2010, 11:54:12 am
rich simpson?

Route climber really, hardest boulders were SB/PUTP and Malcs start.  Still one of the most powerful men ever to grace this fair isle though
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 05, 2010, 11:57:05 am
rich simpson?
Route climber really, hardest boulders were SB/PUTP and Malcs start.  Still one of the most powerful men ever to grace this fair isle though 147 bar in Dudno.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Paul B on February 05, 2010, 02:14:01 pm
Done much abroad Paul?

That wasn't a dig in my direction, I fall into the strong on a board category quite comfortably.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: dobbin on February 05, 2010, 02:41:15 pm
rich simpson?

This isnt a thread about the eiger
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Krank on February 05, 2010, 02:46:42 pm
That wasn't a dig in my direction, I fall into the strong on a board category quite comfortably.

Not having a dig mate, just thought voyager at home and maybe some stuff abroad would get you on the list.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 05, 2010, 02:59:31 pm
They should fit the old school boards in van and take it round europe - hey presto 8b in every country.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Stubbs on February 05, 2010, 03:06:14 pm
If only they could do the same for Brad Pit for you, 7C's galore!  ;D
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 05, 2010, 03:08:19 pm
Hmm, not sure I'd enjoy it as much without the view. Luckily 7c abroad ain't so hard.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Paul B on February 05, 2010, 03:11:55 pm
Quote from: Krank link=topic=13486.msg242953#msg242953
Not having a dig mate, just thought voyager at home and maybe some stuff abroad would get you on the list.

Sorry I took it wrongly.
Hmm, not sure I'd enjoy it as much without the view. Luckily 7c abroad ain't so hard.
Especially in Magic Wood, the place is ridiculous regardless of what people say.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Stubbs on February 05, 2010, 03:18:12 pm
It still always surprises me that when people spend their whole time time training on steep boards with positive holds they are shocked when they go to a venue with problems similar to their board and climb well!
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Paul B on February 05, 2010, 03:26:40 pm
so how do you explain Natalie, who has never climbed on a steep board flashing harder problems than she'd ever previously managed?
To clarify further: without a warmup and not massively into the 6 months. Anyway this'll just lead to further off topic ness, back to the waddage.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: c.j.d. on February 05, 2010, 09:27:53 pm
No worries Percy - I guess by todays whipper snapper standards, I am a bit of a coffin dodger :)

Oh, Power Of Goodbye probably counts - three of us say 8b+, and three say 8b.  Hard though.

Good luck sorting out the what's, ifs and buts!  Should be interesting.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Percy B on March 29, 2011, 03:36:07 pm
Sorry to drag it up again, but I'm back on with the article that time forgot. Whilst I've been fannying around, Nige Callender has got himself onto the list with his repeat of Monk Life, and I've also included a new list for strong British ladeez.

So you don't have to re-trawl this thread, to get on the mens list you need to have done at least 3 Font 8b's (with one of them being in Font), or have climbed confirmed Font 8b+ or harder. Ladies need to have done at least 3 8a's or harder.

My lists look like this....

Blokes

Malcom Smith
John Gaskins
Andy Earl
Micky Page
Liam Desroy
Tyler Landman
Ben Moon
Dan Varian
Mike Adams
Stewart Watson
Sam Davenhall
Steve Dunning
Tim Clifford
Matt Birch
Tom Peckitt
Nigel Callender
Chris Davies

Birds

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk

Who've I left out? The ladies list is pretty embarrassingly short (although Mina has kind of made up for it with 11 ticks of 8a or harder)

New entries into the chart this week are....?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: north_country_boy on March 29, 2011, 03:59:34 pm
Claire Murphy?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: JonI on March 29, 2011, 04:00:48 pm
Dave Barrans has done Gecko Assis  http://davebarrans.blogspot.com/ (http://davebarrans.blogspot.com/)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Nick B on March 29, 2011, 04:03:22 pm
http://www.8a.nu/user/Profile.aspx?UserId=7698 (http://www.8a.nu/user/Profile.aspx?UserId=7698)

Mr Feehally has the ticked the criteria above
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 29, 2011, 04:05:20 pm
Mason would be on the list except he took 8A+ for Elephunk (http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/scorecard/AscentList.aspx%3FUserId%3D9715%26AscentType%3D1%26AscentClass%3D0%26AscentListTimeInterval%3D1%26AscentListViewType%3D0).
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Bonjoy on March 29, 2011, 04:15:04 pm
Mason would be on the list except he took 8A+ for Elephunk (http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/scorecard/AscentList.aspx%3FUserId%3D9715%26AscentType%3D1%26AscentClass%3D0%26AscentListTimeInterval%3D1%26AscentListViewType%3D0).
Serial downgrader in accidental downgrading of self shock
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Richie Crouch on March 29, 2011, 10:09:48 pm
We need to get Shauna to go out rock climbing on rocks and she should be on there in no time!  :strongbench:
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: account_inactive on March 29, 2011, 10:14:50 pm
Mason would be on the list except he took 8A+ for Elephunk (http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/scorecard/AscentList.aspx%3FUserId%3D9715%26AscentType%3D1%26AscentClass%3D0%26AscentListTimeInterval%3D1%26AscentListViewType%3D0).

That's because Ned took 7c+.  Can cheekbones not get a wildcard?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Stubbs on March 29, 2011, 10:28:10 pm
Ah come on Percy, DTR even works for you, add a little bit of favouritism in, he did do 4 8B's in 2 months!
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 30, 2011, 08:41:35 am
Mason would be on the list except he took 8A+ for Elephunk (http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/scorecard/AscentList.aspx%3FUserId%3D9715%26AscentType%3D1%26AscentClass%3D0%26AscentListTimeInterval%3D1%26AscentListViewType%3D0).

That's because Ned took 7c+.  Can cheekbones not get a wildcard?

Yes I noticed that after I'd posted. Ned's card is a homage to the downgrade and proof that his views on grades should be completely ignored!
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Paul B on March 30, 2011, 09:12:52 am
Can cheekbones not get a wildcard?

Like TPOC with the table in the back...
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Paul B on March 30, 2011, 10:00:33 am
Shouldn't unclesomebody make it onto the list of hero's...

General Dissarray
Gourmandise
Danse de Balrogs (original method)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 30, 2011, 10:23:57 am
......and Amber?

EDIT - Oh it seems most are saying 8A+
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: gremlin on March 30, 2011, 11:51:41 am
What about Ian Vickers? Haven't seen him in any list so far.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 30, 2011, 12:05:42 pm
(http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/9107/vickerssmiley.jpg) (http://img832.imageshack.us/i/vickerssmiley.jpg/)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Stubbs on March 30, 2011, 05:18:35 pm
How many 8B's has Vickers done?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Percy B on March 30, 2011, 08:39:12 pm
Well, he did the first repeat of Gaskins Anesthesia at Woodwell, which was 8b+ until he downgraded it (and we can't include crabbing anyway, even if it is a Gaskins horror-show)

DTR makes the list, as does Barrans and Ned. Sorry Shauna, but raw potential ain't enough.... Clare Murphy climbed 8a+ (Chblanke at Hueco, IIRC) ages ago. She isn't climbing anymore, but she'll go on the list just for completeness, to keep Mina company, and to make it slightly less embarrasing. Suzan Dudink has also climbed 8a+ (A Tea with Elmarie in Rocklands) and whilst is an honorary Geordie, she is Dutch honorary Geordie, so she might just get an honorable mention. How honorable. 
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Doylo on March 31, 2011, 10:02:17 pm
Keith should be in really having done 8b in font and two other 8bs (don't think amber has been officially downgraded has it??)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: ferret on April 01, 2011, 12:31:05 am
chablanke is 8a, was given v11/12 originally, settled at 8a these days

claire murphy did sarah v11/12 in or 8a (also in hueco) and the white face v11 little rock city

full list http://www.planetfear.com/news/Claire_Murphy_Reports_from_the_USA_1846.html (http://www.planetfear.com/news/Claire_Murphy_Reports_from_the_USA_1846.html)
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: TommyG on May 05, 2011, 02:00:54 pm
Greg Chapman?????
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: c3po on May 05, 2011, 10:15:51 pm
Greg Chapman?????
Good point, the man did do walk away :strongbench:
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: c3po on May 05, 2011, 10:25:22 pm
Am I blind or has Pasquil evaded this list :blink:  V13's/ Fr8c+ /E8 flashes/ V11 flashes / loads of V12's in a day/ plus the most impressive feat of keeping down a bottle of bacardi  :sick:
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Stubbs on May 05, 2011, 10:27:34 pm
Read the first post...
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Duma on May 05, 2011, 11:35:57 pm
Dave Macs new thing on sky pilot, "seven of nine" gets 8B+, no?
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: SA Chris on May 06, 2011, 09:06:24 am
Yes, but unconfirmed. And sadly likely to remain that way, as it looks like a proud line.
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: Duma on May 06, 2011, 10:51:19 am
Ah, okay. Does being "harder than hubble" (so harder than 8B?) in the opinion of someone who'd done the moves on hubble not count as confirmation then  ;D
Title: Re: Strong bastards
Post by: SA Chris on May 06, 2011, 11:11:46 am
I can't possibly confirm.
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