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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: carlisle slapper on January 27, 2010, 01:10:29 pm

Title: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: carlisle slapper on January 27, 2010, 01:10:29 pm
It seems reality has temporarily been suspended at Stanage, and Burbage North, with the edges drying out, there has never been a better time to get out and "snowball" testpieces of yesteryear.

Yesterday Jonboy and i sorted out the drifts under Whitewand, Ulysses and The Don.  Silk is a complete joke with the bottom 6ft being covered. Someone has already artificially enhanced a snow drift under big air too, which makes bloodline a nicer proposition also.

If anyone is keen to get out on stuff let me know as this is a one in 20year chance pretty much. I'll be heading out to Burb North (hopefully) or stanage if Burb north is wet tomorrow. But this should all still be about at the weekend

Snowballable routes? thoughts?

3 blind mice, superstition, the promise, living in oxford, Berry's highball thing,

Marble wall? (anyone walked round here?) wall of sound, shine on (should be dry tomorrow) cemetry waits,

Black car burning area?

we found it easy to shift 2-3ft of snow about to flatten landings with just 1 shovel so if quite a few people get out and get busy then we could do loads

"http://vimeo.com/9003261"
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: dave on January 27, 2010, 01:19:11 pm
what about the thing in the wall left of Old Salt, also the iaiaiaiaiaiaiaian farrar monch experience would be a bit less highball. crypt trip?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 27, 2010, 02:13:57 pm
Cemetry waits still looking good?

Boys will be boys is the obvious one. Grace and Danger? Weather Report? All depends where the drifts are though. I'll be out tomorrow, though I'm climbing like a fucktard.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: clgladiator on January 27, 2010, 02:26:01 pm
Bit of a heads up, just got back from burbage south today and everything was soaked, it was really misty as well, the one problem we did dry out just got wet again from the humidity and the like.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Somebody's Fool on January 27, 2010, 02:44:53 pm
I'll be out tomorrow, though I'm climbing like a fucktard.

Don't panic, I'm sure there'll still be a gully or two in nick.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 27, 2010, 03:08:57 pm
My recent track record on them isn't very good either...

Burbage North - Nefertiti, Welford's pocket roof thing.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: carlisle slapper on January 27, 2010, 03:42:44 pm
Yeah Pug (welford's roof) and Nefertiti could be good, we should check those out tomorrow. The plantation/ stanage left ones are good too.

The wall left of old Salt and Marble wall should catch the drifts well. The best drifts are under south west facing rock. but most gullys are full of the stuff, and it was easy to move yesterday.

forecast is good for tomorrow.

Ash tree wall area could be a right gold mine
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Bonjoy on January 27, 2010, 04:08:32 pm
You mean sugar mine.
That E5 arete left of Right Fin could be worth a look.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: dave on January 27, 2010, 04:15:11 pm
hows about that e4 or 5 roof just right of knights move as a warmup?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: andy popp on January 27, 2010, 04:43:46 pm
That E5 arete left of Right Fin could be worth a look.

A great little route, should be fun.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: north_country_boy on January 27, 2010, 05:42:26 pm
I'd be keen to get out over the next week Dan!

3 blind Mice sounds good, having already jumped/fallen off post crux on to one pad, a drift would be a bonus  :-[

I'll drop you a text later in the week....
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: duncan on January 27, 2010, 06:05:46 pm
Anyone had a look at Great Slab area, Froggatt ?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: stokesy on January 27, 2010, 06:14:20 pm
Anyone had a look at Great Slab area, Froggatt ?
I was at curbar yesterday n there was sod all snow there so id b surprised if there were much on frogatt
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 27, 2010, 06:43:40 pm
Was there on Sunday. No snow at all. Some seepage from the breaks, though that may have cleared up by now.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: chappers on January 27, 2010, 09:06:08 pm
what the tune in that vid? is it by noel fielding?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: RopeBoy on January 27, 2010, 09:37:00 pm
Roughly when are you heading out and will it be around the Plantation area? I'm off tomorrow but meant to be having a 'family' day but might try and 'just pop out for an hour' or two. Mind you feeling quite rusty at the moment.

J :-)
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: carlisle slapper on January 27, 2010, 11:34:21 pm
tune is by midfield general, "seed distribution" fielding is in another track too called "midfielding" (made the vid in a rush otherwise would have put it on the end)

should be at plantation all day tomorrow by the looks of things
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: BenF on January 28, 2010, 07:43:40 am
tune is by midfield general, "seed distribution" fielding is in another track too called "midfielding"

And a track called Barry The Moth.  More quality verbal rambling, this time about insects.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: duncan on January 28, 2010, 08:47:19 am
Thanks JB and stokesy.  Plan B then...
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Sloper on January 28, 2010, 10:20:23 am
It's bright and cold at the moment although it was awful at times yesterday, the rock looked wet from the road, it might be ok but I wouldn't bank on it.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 28, 2010, 05:36:18 pm
Conditions were great today apart from the odd wet streak, went downhill by sunset though.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: jonjon on January 28, 2010, 06:30:53 pm
Thanks for the platforms under Weather Report and SIlk guys, somewhere for the dog to sit while watching me advance my ground up skills by warp 6!
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 28, 2010, 06:37:21 pm
Effort! Two hard E5's in a day, on your tod - good going.

Couple more at Burbage North now too...
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: jonjon on January 28, 2010, 06:46:05 pm
strictly speaking i didn't top WR - but it was raining and i kept burying myself in the snow sliding off. Silk 'direct' is fun, wots dug out Burbage...?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 28, 2010, 06:52:37 pm
Seek and ye shall find...
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Jim on January 28, 2010, 07:33:43 pm
does this mean you've done 3 blind mice then?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 28, 2010, 07:37:36 pm
No, we didn't do anything in the end, just lots of digging. Should be good to go tomorrow though.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: reeve on January 29, 2010, 09:29:36 pm
Just been up to Three Blind Mice, cheers to whoever put work into flattening the landing! Must be around 8ft of snow:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2557/4313962415_c2011d677a.jpg[/img]]=http://www.flickr.com/photos/47033264@N03/4313962415/(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2557/4313962415_c2011d677a.jpg) (http://=http://www.flickr.com/photos/47033264@N03/4313962415/[img)



I know I've not done great on the embedding pictures front, God I have tried, if only there was some kind of guide to this thing...
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Drew on January 29, 2010, 11:53:07 pm
Nice one Reeve. I'm well impressed that those photos look so good for a camera phone, and it was pretty dark by then.


I'd also like to pass on my thanks to the kind people who flattened the landing, and then those who chalked all the holds for me to see them.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: slackline on January 30, 2010, 09:49:07 am

I know I've not done great on the embedding pictures front, God I have tried, if only there was some kind of guide to this thing...

 ::) :) (http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/HowTo_Embed_Pictures_to_UKBouldering) <--Clicky
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Andy F on January 30, 2010, 05:46:03 pm
Just been up to Three Blind Mice, cheers to whoever put work into flattening the landing! Must be around 8ft of snow:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2557/4313962415_c2011d677a.jpg[/img]]=http://www.flickr.com/photos/47033264@N03/4313962415/(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2557/4313962415_c2011d677a.jpg) (http://=http://www.flickr.com/photos/47033264@N03/4313962415/[img)

That's one serious head loss problem  :o

I know I've not done great on the embedding pictures front, God I have tried, if only there was some kind of guide to this thing...
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: butterworthtom on January 30, 2010, 10:48:08 pm
Three blind mice looks like a really good problem... what's it like when none snowy? Sketchy?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Duma on January 30, 2010, 11:32:08 pm
E7
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 31, 2010, 11:02:51 am
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/sbowblind-1.jpg)
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: nik at work on January 31, 2010, 11:36:06 am
Wow, that is a total boulder problem now, what a lot of snow.

I only hope this leads to one of those delightful UKC-esque grade debates, I love that bonkers shit...
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: nai on January 31, 2010, 11:59:00 am
Wow, that is a total boulder problem now, what a lot of snow.

I only hope this leads to one of those delightful UKC-esque grade debates, I love that bonkers shit...

I'm waiting patiently for that too,  I expect there'll be an article on "snowballing" followed by the usual misinformed debate.

Thanks to everyone that did the digging to prepare the landing and helping people enjoy what is a fantastic sequence of moves, if it were a boulder problem it would be classic and much sought after.
 
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: clm on January 31, 2010, 12:14:38 pm
Wow, that is a total boulder problem now, what a lot of snow.

I only hope this leads to one of those delightful UKC-esque grade debates, I love that bonkers shit...

S'alright. Wont need to be a grade debate as they wont have climbed the route... ;-)
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Falling Down on January 31, 2010, 12:18:58 pm
It must be nice doing these moves/problems/routes ground up though..
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: butterworthtom on January 31, 2010, 12:38:30 pm
I didn't realise how deep the snow was, might have to get out to Burbage soon.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: jonjon on January 31, 2010, 06:22:16 pm
once the snow has gone can we delete this thread so nobody will ever no know the truth about all those ticks?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Ru on January 31, 2010, 07:11:18 pm
Good fun today, thanks to all the platform builders.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 31, 2010, 08:24:06 pm
Good to hear folks are making the most of my landings.  :great: Get those E7 ticks while you can.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2010, 08:59:16 pm
I expect there'll be an article on "snowballing" followed by the usual misinformed debate.

snowball (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BeB0cDr3R0#)

 :P
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 31, 2010, 09:03:39 pm
Good to hear folks are making the most of my landings.  :great: Get those E7 ticks while you can.

Cemetery Waits got a few more ascents this eve just as the sun was going down. Waddage to whoever shovelled the snow!
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 31, 2010, 09:35:57 pm
Lets see it then! With these frosts they'll be holding together for a while too, it'll take a big thaw to remove them completely.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Jim on January 31, 2010, 09:36:47 pm
who's going to burbage tomorrow then?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 31, 2010, 10:06:11 pm
Not me. Don't miss Ai No Corrida though.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Jim on January 31, 2010, 10:09:15 pm
?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 31, 2010, 10:10:12 pm
?

Burbage North E5.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 31, 2010, 10:14:28 pm
Hanging arete right of 3blind - brilliant and safe at the mo.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Jim on January 31, 2010, 10:17:48 pm
awesome.
trouble with being only a boulderer. I don't know any routes
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: north_country_boy on January 31, 2010, 10:18:14 pm
Hanging arete right of 3blind - brilliant and safe at the mo.

I'll 2nd this, very good and much safer than usual!
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: butterworthtom on January 31, 2010, 11:35:33 pm
Im off snowballing tomorrow...
Nosferatu, Nefereti, Pebble Mill and 3 blind mice are what we are headed for I think. Taking the snow shovel. Is there still lots of snow to be had?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: north_country_boy on February 01, 2010, 01:04:42 am
Im off snowballing tomorrow...
Nosferatu, Nefereti, Pebble Mill and 3 blind mice are what we are headed for I think. Taking the snow shovel. Is there still lots of snow to be had?

No snow to be had at burbage south. And you probably wont need a shovel, its been kindly done for you!
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Bonjoy on February 01, 2010, 09:11:04 am

Cemetery Waits got a few more ascents this eve just as the sun was going down. Waddage to whoever shovelled the snow!
Lets see it then!


Ahem. Who's £18 primo horse shit shovelling shovel has been making all these platforms?  :whistle:
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: dave on February 01, 2010, 11:03:38 am
I wonder if any of these snow landings are going to lead to a new genre of ascent - snowpoint?

I.e. you get your route worked now when its a highball problem, then come back when the snow is gone to get the full E7 tick or whatever - and whats more it still counts as a ground-up.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Bonjoy on February 01, 2010, 11:32:13 am
That pre-supposes that an ascent above snow is an invalid ascent.
Technically snow as a weather phenomenon is just an extreme of good conditions. Just as you don’t get an extra grade for doing something in bad conditions should you get a lower one or consider an ascent less valid if conditions are very good? As you've said before, grades are for climbs not ascents. Obviously if significant hard climbing is buried it complicates the matter a little. I’m playing devils avocado here a little maybe.  :P
Again this question boils down to this whole bolloxy ‘claiming the grade’ thing. If you climbed the line without resort to a rope and you’ve enjoyed it, why even consider the stuffing of square pegs into round holes after the event? Enjoy the rare treat for what it is, it’ll be gone soon enough.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: dave on February 01, 2010, 11:40:45 am
That pre-supposes that an ascent above snow is an invalid ascent.

I think you're reading me wrong. I agree with everything you've just written of course, as its the same as I've banged on about myself over the years.

I meant more that if there's a route you've always wanted to do from bottom to top in its condition it is 99.9999% of the time but never had the balls to go for it and didn't want to toprope it, then this is a unique chance to both work something and maintain the ground-up approach. That is  say if you've always wanted to do Three Blind Mice the E7 rather than Three Blind Mice the font 7a. This might apply to some people, as maybe the challange of the bad landing or the height was part of the appeal to do the route. I know if i turned up at froggatt to find the final flake of stapadictomy was now a sitstart problem it wouldn't stop me wanting to lead it in normal conditions.

I think my choice of phrase of "full E7 tick" was a bit unfortunate, a better choice would have been "full E7 ascent experience".
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: SA Chris on February 01, 2010, 11:52:59 am
Surely winter effix apply - amount of snow does not alter grade of route? :)
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Bonjoy on February 01, 2010, 12:18:11 pm
Dave - I agree with what you said too, so we're both in perfect harmony, like ebony and ivory, side by side on my piano keyboard. I sort of knew your position already, was just using what you'd said as a convenient launchpad for some opinionating.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: dave on February 01, 2010, 12:23:48 pm
No worries BonCartney, you're welcome on my stool any day.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: butterworthtom on February 01, 2010, 06:04:44 pm
Had a very good day today. Started with Long tall sally, then the vs crack to the right of the slap, 3 blind mice after quite afew attempts, had a go at nefertiti but wasn't managing it, and finished it off with an e4 that I don't know the name of.

Awesome day out, especially since I haven't been climbing outside in months. 3 blind mice saw a total of 5 ascents today.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Falling Down on February 01, 2010, 07:38:26 pm
Dammit.... wish I had taken some holidays this week.  I'm 40 this year and might be 60 by the time this happens again!
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: butterworthtom on February 01, 2010, 08:06:35 pm
Here's some pics of today's fun. Sorry for the facebook link.
(http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs191.snc3/19857_280760479626_509194626_3176815_646204_n.jpg)
(http://www.facebook.com/butterworth.tom?cropsuccess#/photo.php?pid=3176808&id=509194626&fbid=280760409626)
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Jim on February 01, 2010, 10:21:37 pm
I'd say this was once in a lifetime thing.
Unfortunately my son had to go into hospital today and is staying overnight. Nothing serious, just for observation. Anyway spent all day at the hospital  :wall:  hopefully he'll be out tomorrow morning and I can get on over. Hows the snow holding up?
Its raining in the MCR at the minute and I'm worried the snow will be disapearing fast.
Anyone out tomorrow?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: butterworthtom on February 01, 2010, 10:35:46 pm
It was cold today. The snow was still very much in fine form, there was still 8ft left beneath 3 blind and it was freezing today so I don't expect it will change. I think weather is supposed to be bad tomorrow though.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Somebody's Fool on February 01, 2010, 10:55:35 pm
Technically snow as a weather phenomenon is just an extreme of good conditions.

Amen to that. Although someone should tell Nige:

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2712/4322969553_ffcbef03e2.jpg)
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 02, 2010, 08:22:14 am
Jim, its four weeks today since it snowed. I reckon it'll hang on for you a few days yet. Hope the yoot's okay, is he big enough to join Ninky-nonk at the crag yet?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Nigel on February 02, 2010, 02:02:05 pm
Snow update - me and Somebody's Fool checked out Marble Wall and beyond. There are some massive drifts up here! We highballed Goosey Goosey Gander and pitch 1 of Nectar. GGG is still a solo once the hard bit is over though, so mind out. P1 of Nectar is totally safe, although totally nails (remember thinking this when I failed to lead it several months ago). Font 7a??? A good time to get on it without pissing off belayers!

There is potential to highball Turtle Power, Slap And Spittle, Hideous Hidare, Saltation, Good Clean Fun, Concept of Kinky, and Clubbing. The problem, as shown in the photo above of me on GCF, is that the snow is too high! All these will need a thaw/snow saw to reveal them. Marbellous and Mother of Pearl are both highball prospects though.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Jim on February 02, 2010, 02:08:18 pm
yoot is ok. going to be in for a few more days. hopefully going to get out this afternoon and tomorrow. certainly got to be better than sitting in a hospital
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: SA Chris on February 02, 2010, 02:17:32 pm
bergshrunds on Stanage, would love to be there to see this.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Paul B on February 02, 2010, 02:43:33 pm
yoot is ok. going to be in for a few more days. hopefully going to get out this afternoon and tomorrow. certainly got to be better than sitting in a hospital

I might pop out tomorrow morning Jim. Is Big Air still filled in?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: SA Chris on February 02, 2010, 02:57:46 pm
Make sure your medical insurance is up to date.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Bonjoy on February 02, 2010, 02:58:30 pm
Not much left of the Big Air landing on Sat. I'd imagine it'll be little or no safer than it's default state after today and tomos predicted weather. You'd be better off on stuff with deep snow under it. See JBs blog for best options.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Sloper on February 02, 2010, 03:00:26 pm
shit weather out in the hope valley, mirky drizzle and low cloud.

Probably won't dry out tomorrow, although I'd love ot be wrong about that.

Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Paul B on February 02, 2010, 03:52:44 pm
Not much left of the Big Air landing on Sat. I'd imagine it'll be little or no safer than it's default state after today and tomos predicted weather. You'd be better off on stuff with deep snow under it. See JBs blog for best options.

Cheers good sir I shall do, I think it'll be a morning job tomorrow, looking on yr.no I might just beat the bad stuff, if I'm lucky. Any recommendations that might be more suited to my better half?
(although I'll try and get her up three blind mice for sure).
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 02, 2010, 05:32:21 pm
Quote from: Jim
Quote
Ai No corrida
?

In the meantime Jim, you can learn the words for your summit dance.

Quincy Jones with louis Johnson ai no corrida (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZW5i1vbbKM&feature=related#)
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Jim on February 02, 2010, 06:44:36 pm
I think I'll be over tomorrow just for a look even if its wet
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Paul B on February 02, 2010, 06:46:38 pm
I should be out reasonably early jim so if you drop me a text I can let you know if its wet.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Jim on February 02, 2010, 06:48:38 pm
pm me your number, i don't think I've got it.
I'll be out in the afternoon
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Sloper on February 02, 2010, 06:52:15 pm
Heavy flakes of wet snow so far this evening.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Jim on February 02, 2010, 10:53:01 pm
fuck, forecast looks like shit all week. I'll still be over for a look tomorrow
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 03, 2010, 08:17:20 am
3/4" of fresh on the eastern edges last night, followed by a hard frost.

Quote
Cold with ice and snow cover. Bright or sunny at first, becoming cloudy later. Snow arriving by the late afternoon. Moderate wind chill
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Sloper on February 03, 2010, 08:23:54 am
Be careful there are some very icy patches on the roads.

The snow seems to have come in from the NW so anything that faces SE is probably the best bet but we also had a lot of heavy drizzle before the snow so there could be frozen run off too.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: SA Chris on February 03, 2010, 11:47:10 am
How long before peak starts getting avalanche forecasts.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Paul B on February 03, 2010, 01:10:28 pm
Be careful there are some very icy patches on the roads.

The snow seems to have come in from the NW so anything that faces SE is probably the best bet but we also had a lot of heavy drizzle before the snow so there could be frozen run off too.

Roads were bad on the way out at about 8 but now (13:00) they're fine.

Three Blind Mice and surrounding problems all in really good nick
Over at stanage landing cemetry waits had a bit of wetness on the arete holds from the fresh stuff
Silk area, fine.

I think everyone had been put off by the bad forecast as there wasn't anyone else out until midday.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Dan Arkle on February 05, 2010, 07:30:44 pm
Condition update - friday 5th

Fresh snow yesterday has been washed off the rock by todays rain. A little noticeable thaw in the big drifts but essentially still there. Could be good if it dries out tomorow.

to add to the list
Nefetiti now has a flat landing, but still high *
A little snow left at millstone - Shnivling Shits * (not climbed).
All of far stanage still utterly buried, Slap and Spittle and Turtle Power possible and flat landings already, but you'd miss a lot of the climbing *** (not climbed)
Nectar would be my pick, *** landing and no fiddling about getting tiny wires in -just those moves without the easy start.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: SA Chris on February 05, 2010, 09:20:57 pm
Anyone getting pics of this shizzle?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 05, 2010, 09:28:07 pm
Anyone getting pics of this shizzle?

A friend got some of us doing Cemetery Waits on Saturday eve, should be good when he uploads them.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 06, 2010, 10:59:36 am
Cheers Dan, good to see the snowball rating catching on!
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Drew on February 06, 2010, 08:17:54 pm
Anyone done Shine on in these conditions? Just wondering what the snow's like. Everyone seems to be talking about Cemetary Waits. Does this mean the snow's only banked up there? It's only a few feet away surely?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 07, 2010, 01:05:02 pm
There's a big sloping boulder below Shine On. The gap above it and the crag is full of snow, and has been flattened - perfect for Cemetery. The boulder is still the landing for Shine On. There is snow around it, so the landing is improved, but not to anthing like the same degree.

Having said that, Shine On has seen a few ascents, as much due to the snow as to folks congregating in the area with loads of pads.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Paul B on February 07, 2010, 01:27:09 pm
I went up there with one pad and Nat and decided it was still too much of a gamble (even if it does look p*ss). I think a couple of you went up it'd be a lot more tempting, if the snow is still around this week I'd be up for it.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Drew on February 07, 2010, 10:51:17 pm
I'm working all week, but am off at the weekend  :bounce:
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Paul B on February 08, 2010, 01:18:16 pm
I can't remember if we have plans but if not I'm psyched. Anyone checked the snow recently?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: butterworthtom on February 10, 2010, 07:25:33 pm
Still some good snow drifts around at the moment at Burbage and Stanage. Not sure about specific routes/problems. I think it is similar to last week.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Dan Arkle on February 10, 2010, 11:29:45 pm
Was up yesterday (and will head out thurs at noon if anyone wants to join me).
The big drifts all still intact, some smaller patches melting out a bit.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Will Hunt on February 11, 2010, 12:03:43 am
Do none of you people have jobs?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: butterworthtom on February 11, 2010, 12:10:41 am
I'm a student
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: north_country_boy on February 12, 2010, 10:44:04 pm
Was up yesterday (and will head out thurs at noon if anyone wants to join me).
The big drifts all still intact, some smaller patches melting out a bit.

Still snow under Cemetary waits and Shine on?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Paul B on February 13, 2010, 11:23:11 am
there was nothing that useful below shine on to begin with.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Andy B on February 13, 2010, 07:36:16 pm
Was up yesterday (and will head out thurs at noon if anyone wants to join me).
The big drifts all still intact, some smaller patches melting out a bit.

Still snow under Cemetary waits and Shine on?

Sorry if this is too late for you Dan, but on Thursday, platforms still looked good under Weather Report, Silk and Grace and Danger. We didn't go right over to Cemetary Waits, but from a distance it looked like there was still plenty of snow under it.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: north_country_boy on February 13, 2010, 07:49:36 pm
Cool Cheers Andy, may head out tomorrow....
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Percy B on February 13, 2010, 08:06:41 pm

Still snow under Cemetary waits and Shine on?

Not enough for me. Went up today to do Cemetary Waits and even if it had been dry, I wouldn't have fancied it - a lot of the snow underneath has melted and we only had 2 pads anyway which is no longer going to be enough.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Dan Arkle on March 03, 2010, 09:29:28 am
Just an update to let y'all know here's still loads of snow about, I'm still suprised so few people are taking up the rare opportunty.  All these at Stanage, done yesterday

Bouldering height-
  Trimming the Beard @Cleft wing buttress - this was E3 6a but is now a superb V3 with the snow rising up with you to keep it super safe.
Spearing the Bearded Clam -not quite so good but worth doing
Verandah buttress direct - good looking V7, now with a perfect landing- you'll never have it this good.
Mary Whitehouse -good clean fun just next door

Route Height -
   Plastic Dream and Tarzan Boy, Verrandah Buttress, both down to V2 from E3, still highball but great climbing
Coma, start highball, you may want a rope for the rest (which is easy).
Daydreamer Slab, 5 E1-E3 6a/b slab routes are now much safer highballs. You will miss the first couple of moves on these, and a  spotter may be useful to keep you on the pads. Top quality.

It looked like platforms were still under Grace and Danger, Silk, No More Excuses and the superb routes near it. Marble Wall and High Neb will still have loads of snow.
Cemetary Waits now dodgy but could be easily built up again  in an hour by anyone keen enough.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Bonjoy on March 03, 2010, 09:38:00 am
Did you go through the ice tunnel under Daydreamer. A rare treat!
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: nai on March 03, 2010, 09:44:17 am
Anything still beneath Weather Report, Dan?

I had a look yesterday -

No More Excuses still has snow underneath it but not enough for me (on my own at least - the boulder beneath Crew etc is now exposed, not sure how high it was previously). Pig's Ear - Travesties ok although the middle one of these was wet at the top in the crack.  Descents are, erm, fun.

Turtle Power fine although the crux might still be buried, Slap and Spittle has a big pointy bergshrund beneath it but a bit of spade work is all that's needed to prepare it (mine was still sitting by the front door where I placed it so I wouldn't forget it  :wall:)  Looks like I'll be taking a walk back up there Thurs PM.

Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: SA Chris on March 03, 2010, 10:01:16 am
Once again, a plea for some pics.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: nai on March 03, 2010, 10:09:54 am
I haven't got any I'm afraid but here's one of Three Blind Mice from Nic Mullin (hope you don't mind Nic).
 
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4048/4326225290_6c80a1af7b_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25829040@N04/4326225290/sizes/l/)
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: SA Chris on March 03, 2010, 10:19:09 am
Cheers nai, seen the 3BM ones, was hoping to see a few others.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: andy popp on March 03, 2010, 10:57:32 am
What are the Plantation boulders like? Am hoping to get there Sat.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Bonjoy on March 03, 2010, 12:01:24 pm
Cheers nai, seen the 3BM ones, was hoping to see a few others.
Some here http://adamlong.blogspot.com/ (http://adamlong.blogspot.com/)
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: SA Chris on March 03, 2010, 12:14:21 pm
Cheers Bonj. Nice pics Adam, as always.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Somebody's Fool on March 03, 2010, 12:24:30 pm
Grimer approaching Weather Report
(http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs283.ash1/21063_296229840632_568585632_3772428_1483124_n.jpg)

Neil 'Golden 'Nige' Feet' Kershaw above the bergschrund on No More Excuses
(http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs283.ash1/21063_296229935632_568585632_3772435_8346866_n.jpg)

A few pads under Shine On
(http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs283.ash1/21063_296229955632_568585632_3772437_4912796_n.jpg)

Friends Like These
(http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs283.ash1/21063_296229830632_568585632_3772427_2028874_n.jpg)

Ben Pritchard on Shine On
(http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs283.ash1/21063_296229975632_568585632_3772439_2234960_n.jpg)




Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: SA Chris on March 03, 2010, 12:33:39 pm
Excellent. Love the last two. And Grimer step kicking.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Dan Arkle on March 03, 2010, 12:56:05 pm
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zly_qEidJPg/S3Entc9RQvI/AAAAAAAAAmk/g4LbzRD6NoY/s576/snowballing.jpg)
Tom on Ai no Corrida

(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_zly_qEidJPg/S3EoSgBd_6I/AAAAAAAAAnE/ucLOn05vXJQ/snowballing%20%288%29.jpg)
Testing.............................

(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zly_qEidJPg/S3Ent8dWh8I/AAAAAAAAAmw/sW5TP1VX1yM/s576/snowballing%20%283%29.jpg)

while there was some snow covering the rock at the base of WW,  I'm not sure it'd help from this high.



Weather Report presumably is still ok-ish, it was a bit high to start with (climbs like a V3 tho).

No snow at plantation boulders

Nai and anyone else - might be able to get out Thurs pm too. Gimme a text if you do head up that way 07906 989362
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 03, 2010, 03:02:13 pm
Most of the big drifts are still there. Gib dug out a platform under Reagent, at Pop end yesterday, so still stuff to go at. The base of Rusty wall is buried and yet little sign of use. Will hopefully get up Marble wall etc in the next few days.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Sloper on March 03, 2010, 03:19:46 pm
Also out tomorrow afternoon Dan but can I suggest that it's not a good idea to post mobile telephone numbers?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: nai on March 03, 2010, 04:04:17 pm
Got the afternoon off confirmed.  Will drop you a text unless we want to arrange a meeting point? 

What's everyone fancy doing?

Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Sloper on March 03, 2010, 04:16:29 pm
I'm open to suggestions but would suggest somewhere with some shelter from the wind, it was baltic today.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: nai on March 03, 2010, 09:26:21 pm
Forecast to be a NE'ly so being under the edge at Stanage should be sheltered.  Think I'll head to the Plantation around 12:30 to warm up then go on from there.  I'll be the guy with a spade.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: SA Chris on March 04, 2010, 10:06:43 am
(restrain from making attempt at humourous comment that may be misconstrued as racist)
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: dave on March 04, 2010, 10:15:29 am
I'm hearing you on FM chris.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Jim on March 04, 2010, 11:00:39 am
similar restraint here
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 04, 2010, 11:11:12 am
Rofl.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: nai on March 04, 2010, 11:18:13 am
Got a problem at work so I'm not going to make it.  As you were.

Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: kingholmesy on March 05, 2010, 09:06:04 am
Can anyone tell me if Three Blind Mice and Ali No Corrida are still highball-able?

I'd also be interested to know if there's much snow under No More Exuses, Nectar and Silk.

Ta.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: clgladiator on March 05, 2010, 09:12:13 am
Three blind mice was still possible on wednesday.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 05, 2010, 09:33:05 am
Got a problem at work so I'm not going to make it.  As you were.

*restrains himself from further spade related joke that could be misconstrued as racist*
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Bonjoy on March 05, 2010, 10:58:22 am
Can anyone tell me if Three Blind Mice and Ali No Corrida are still highball-able?

I'd also be interested to know if there's much snow under No More Exuses, Nectar and Silk.

Ta.
Ai No Corrida landing had deteriorated a lot when I was there about ten days ago, so probably not much better than normal ground by now.
I dare say NME will be fine, though you might need to fill the bergshrund a bit. If you go there you should also do Crew Pegs Diff. I also added a direct start to CPD which I think is easier, better and more logical than the original since that lost a hold.
Silk should still be ok, but getting longer by the day.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Somebody's Fool on March 05, 2010, 02:28:22 pm
Wolf Solent is also a great solo if there's still snow underneath it.

 
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: nai on March 05, 2010, 05:23:33 pm
NME maybe had 3-4ft of snow still underneath it, it's at the level of the boulder beneath CPD if that means anything to you.
Nectar similar, maybe slightly less.  Looked pretty too high to me.

Went up to Germ, etc, still buried up to half height. Exaltation round the corner looked a good bet for the snowball treatment with a few mats.

Still snow beneath Wolf Solent though that looks high too.

Quote from: Dan Arkle
Bouldering height-
Trimming the Beard @Cleft wing buttress - this was E3 6a but is now a superb V3 with the snow rising up with you to keep it super safe.
Spearing the Bearded Clam -not quite so good but worth doing
Verandah buttress direct - good looking V7, now with a perfect landing- you'll never have it this good
Route Height
Plastic Dream, Tarzan Boy Verrandah Buttress, both down to V2 from E3, still highball but great climbing
.

These are great problems with good landings, couple of pads only required although more is nice on Plastic Dream.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: tomtom on March 05, 2010, 05:29:48 pm
Hello Nai,
Hope you had a good day - I spent 3 1/2 hours at Curabar and was wrecked when I left (could hardly pick up my bag!) so just stumbled home!
T
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: kingholmesy on March 05, 2010, 09:10:50 pm
Cheers for the suggestions.

I've already soloed Spearing the Bearded Clam and led dogged Trimming the Beard in the past but NME, Crew Pegs Diffs and Exaltation all look good if there is sufficient snow under them tomorrow (and it isn't raining).

If I get up the Stanage I'll post an update.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 18, 2010, 10:55:51 am
Superstition.

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_slv0hhtNaj4/S6D_OWWCwKI/AAAAAAAAAEY/3kyYJRU2_zc/s1600/Still%2B9.jpeg)
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: SA Chris on March 18, 2010, 11:01:04 am
Nice. That you Adam?
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 18, 2010, 11:03:48 am
Nice. That you Adam?

 :lol: not a chance!
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: cofe on March 18, 2010, 11:04:16 am
must be a secret.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: SA Chris on March 18, 2010, 11:09:14 am
Would seem that way.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 18, 2010, 11:13:08 am
At the risk of repeating myself.....

http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/ (http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/)
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: cofe on March 18, 2010, 11:14:04 am
speak up jasper, can't hear you. cut a tennis ball in half and put it over the lock? what? eh? speak up. you dick.  ;)
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: SA Chris on March 18, 2010, 11:15:07 am
We don't all read every blog on a daily basis (you smug dick).
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 18, 2010, 11:23:28 am
must be a secret.

Sorry, should have put more info. Dan varian snowballing.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Stubbs on March 18, 2010, 11:27:11 am
We don't all read every blog on a daily basis (you smug dick).

You tried google's reader? Puts all the blogs you may want to read in one place
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: SA Chris on March 18, 2010, 12:00:35 pm
Would love to have the time.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on March 18, 2010, 04:02:04 pm
At the risk of repeating myself.....

http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/ (http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/)
On an unrelated note, anyone else get annoyed with 'oh so stylish' white on black blogs? I read them for a few minutes then I have it imprinted on my retinas for a while when I go back to a page like this. There is probably a 'protect my retinas' grease monkey script if I could be arsed to look for it.
Title: Re: hard grit, soft snow...
Post by: Paul B on March 18, 2010, 04:21:54 pm
No... but if you do just use google reader, which is white on black.
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