UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Sloper on October 20, 2009, 02:05:53 pm
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Following two incidents where climbers sustained injuries following the failure of the auto-belayer adequately control their descent the manufacturer has issued a stop notice.
While all walls should be taking steps to review whether their auto belayers are affected and are properly maintained you should be aware of this issue.
http://www.cwma.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=60:red-alert-over-red-point-and-auto-belay-descenders&catid=25:news&Itemid=61 (http://www.cwma.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=60:red-alert-over-red-point-and-auto-belay-descenders&catid=25:news&Itemid=61)
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Interesting to read that the company that makes the things is no longer taking orders for new machines, or honouring any orders already placed. Just a notice that says stop using them.
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is that the system that the virgin gym in sheffield ( and perhaps elsewhere) uses...??
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I'm not sure who uses what system, but Red Point are the market leader so it's reasonably likely that the answer is 'yes', best to make enquiries before using an auto-belay.
It's also worth remembering that most of the injuries associated with auto-belay systems are due to user error.
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Yes, it is FD. Its pretty safe to assume that any autobelay machine on an indoor climbing wall in the UK is a Redpoint, as are 95% of the machines on outdoor trailer-type walls you see at events and shows.
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I am aware of another brand used but can't think of it's name, it was german and supplied to indoor play centres in the late '90s, but other than that agree with the presumption that you're suggesting that people make.
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Not sure of the brand but one of the auto-belays at Sydney indoor climbing gym failed last week and the poor guy attached to it hit the floor from a good 10m. Luckily I think he escaped with a broken foot.
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Not sure of the brand but one of the auto-belays at Sydney indoor climbing gym failed last week and the poor guy attached to it hit the floor from a good 10m. Luckily I think he escaped with a broken foot.
Must be good at hoping then!
Never liked the idea of the auto-belays, I prefer human error over mechanical!!
Good heads up though Sloper.
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Not sure of the brand but one of the auto-belays at Sydney indoor climbing gym failed last week and the poor guy attached to it hit the floor from a good 10m. Luckily I think he escaped with a broken foot.
Well the Stop notice came about from incidents in Asia & Australia so your man's broken foot might have been in a good cause
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It's also worth remembering that most of the injuries associated with auto-belay systems are due to users being too fat you know who you are.
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The other type of auto belay machines there are in use in the UK are made by a company called Topaz (probably splet this wrong, but hey ho!). These ones aren't the ones that have been withdrawn from use.
Having used one of these auto belay things a number of times, I'm glad they're getting withdrawn from use. I find them terrifying, and a very poor substitute for a mate holding your rope (even if he is skinning up as you take the ride from the top of Tunnel Walls and drops you screaming almost the full length of the crag....)
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The other type of auto belay machines there are in use in the UK are made by a company called Topaz (probably splet this wrong, but hey ho!). These ones aren't the ones that have been withdrawn from use.
Having used one of these auto belay things a number of times, I'm glad they're getting withdrawn from use. I find them terrifying, and a very poor substitute for a mate holding your rope (even if he is skinning up as you take the ride from the top of Tunnel Walls and drops you screaming almost the full length of the crag....)
Yes Topaz, that's the one. Apparently not designed for the application but still used :o even though the servicing company went broke (I think) a few years ago.