UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: Adam Lincoln on October 16, 2009, 03:07:16 pm
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Looking like being a good contender for Dragon...
http://ezharrison.blogspot.com/2009/10/2010-talons.html (http://ezharrison.blogspot.com/2009/10/2010-talons.html)
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Why are they going to put Stealth rubber on them? Did you get a pair of free shoes for posting this? ;)
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I'm quite excited by these as I tried some old ones on and they were a near perfect fit out the box... but may hold out for the team 5.10 shoe instead! Decisions :-\
Any ideas if the new team 5.10 will be uber thin on the rubber front ala the projects :shrug:
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Any ideas if the new team 5.10 will be uber thin on the rubber front ala the projects :shrug:
I doubt it. Surely they can't be that idiotic twice?
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Crouch, Dna at the Depot has a pair of teams...the rubber is thicker. To be honest they are quite simply the breast.I'm sure if you mince your way round there he'll whip them out and let you have a fondle.
Stubbs, check out my testicles at the depot on monday..... :P
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Why are you telling me stallion, I've already fondled them ;D they do appear to be the shiznit, like a v10 with a velcro strap and slightly thinner rubber on the toebox with slits in to allow a bit of expansion.
Rather than fucking up the shoe they just seem to have messed up the marketing instead.
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How do these compaire to the Dragons in terms or fit and performance?
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How do these compaire to the Dragons in terms or fit and performance?
Not tried a pair of the new Talon yet as not sure they are being imported into uk at moment.
The old Talon however, perfoms like a stiffer dragon, giving more power due to this. Makes them even better suited to routes. Heel is not as thin, but performs just as well.
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Why are they going to put Stealth rubber on them?
This is it. I had a pair of predators a few years back and at the time I swore the rubber was just as good. Then when I wore those out (admitedly they lasted ages) I got some dragons and realised how sorely mistaken I was.
If you need more stiffness than the dragon shirley the white's are the answer? I was shocked the first time I wore them on something hard and they soon became my favourite shoes on my trip.
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I suggest you guys take a look at this.
http://www.spadout.com/r/climbing-rubber-test/ (http://www.spadout.com/r/climbing-rubber-test/)
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I suggest you guys take a look at this.
http://www.spadout.com/r/climbing-rubber-test/ (http://www.spadout.com/r/climbing-rubber-test/)
Seen it, personally I'll take the results of my 1000's of hours of fieldwork! I wish evolv rubber was good as I like some of their shapes, but if you wear them for a while and then switch back to stealth the improvement is obvious.
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My geography teacher in year 5 was an avid climber and did a similar test in our 'Science' class. His running shoe beat all the climbing shoes he brought with him.
Alpkit have a rating system that puts their pad top of the pile, are you going to believe that one as well?
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Alpkit have a rating system that puts their pad top of the pile, are you going to believe that one as well?
This test was fully independent... :shrug:
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I'm not disputing that. I don't think its representative though. I've tried tonnes of shoes over the years and the only ones I can get up slabs in have stealth on the bottom.
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I think anyone who's tried both on rock will be in no doubt which rubber works better.
We need some full disclosure here - Adam, what's your relationship with Evolv?
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I think anyone who's tried both on rock will be in no doubt which rubber works better.
We need some full disclosure here - Adam, what's your relationship with Evolv?
When i initially posted the talon link above, i had nothing to do with them. I have recently been passing on comments and feedback regarding the shoes back to Evolv. Someone showed me the link to the rubber test. Everyone is always convinced that five ten rubber is the best. I thought it very interesting that five ten were down the list. (rightly or wrongly) (nothing underhand was intended)
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I have recently been passing on comments and feedback regarding the shoes back to Evolv.
So you are getting them for free in return?
'Scientific figures' also apparently suggest a 4x4 has a lighter footprint than a man. All that matters is whether it is borne out in practice?
Maybe the lab temp had an effect? I wouldn't expect good friction at 68F. I don't weigh 15oz either, and we all know the way to get a smear to stick is to weight it.
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I have recently been passing on comments and feedback regarding the shoes back to Evolv.
I don't weigh 15oz either
Well spotted! I, nor anyone i have talked about this test with has noticed that the shoe was just placed on the ramp. Well, not in any concious thought anyway. So can anyone bring any science to the table and think of a level playing field in which a fair test could be carried out? I for one would be very interested in the results. And when i mean test, i mean one that doesn't actually just rely on personal opinion. We need a totally unbiased opinion.
How about a blindfold test? :shrug:
That is if anyone is actually interested in this.
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My bouldering shoe is the old pair of Talons and I like them enough to buy a another pair in anticipation of the current ones dying (the durability is poor). Put simply they are the business.
I have spoken to one of the guys at Beyond Hope (suppliers of Evolv) about the newly designed pair. They have expressed reservations about the new pair and have decided not to bring any in for the moment.
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I have spoken to one of the guys at Beyond Hope about the newly designed pair. They have expressed reservations about the new pair and have decided not to bring any in for the moment.
shame
was looking forward to them
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I have spoken to one of the guys at Beyond Hope about the newly designed pair. They have expressed reservations about the new pair and have decided not to bring any in for the moment.
shame
was looking forward to them
At the Works yesterday Brian informed me they were intending on getting the new pairs into the UK for November. Bit of long wait.
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I quite liked the look of the green sole arch but not so keen on the redesigned heel. It will be interesting to see how it is compared to the old one (which I thought was good).
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I have managed to get my sweaty mitts on a pair of these. Not worn them climbing yet though. Will report back when broken in.
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Shoes have now broken in.
I think the sizing is a little more generous than the old pair as they have stretched a little (probably half a size as opposed to the quarter size of my first pair).
When compared with the old pair the rubber is a little thinner on top of the toes and thicker on the rand. I think they will last a little longer, the only issue I had with the old ones was that the rand would deform past the end of the shoe and you ended up wearing out the rand first.
The heel isn't quite as good as the old pair, but i think the issue may be that they have stretched more and as result not as tight, as opposed to being radically different. Generally they fit a little more generously.
All in all they feel like a slightly less focused version of the old pair which is disappointing as they were one of the best shoes I have ever owned. I am not entirely sure if this is down to an issue of them stretching out more than the old ones and I would be better with half a size down, but time will tell.