UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: roddersm on October 03, 2009, 02:09:14 pm
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Watched Big ups new movie Progression last night and its awesome. Better than all the dosages put together. Some brilliant climbing on there with sharma and ondra cranking hard in spain, Patxi usobiaga crazy training regimes, sharma doing jumbo love, the american boys ripping up the peak, Tommy caldwell trying some crazy routes in yosmite and some hard bouldering... plus an appearance from the legendary Grimer! Brilliant if you like that sort of thing. Took 3 attempts to download though from there site though.
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watched it tonight and thought it was the best movie to come out of the big up stable.
got me even more psyched than normal
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Did you see the extras? Wondering if it's worth paying the extra for the DVD version with them...
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Suprisingly the bit that got me most psyched was the Paxi training stuff! Now that's dedication.
Classic comment of the film. Adam Ondra "Basciallyi am just weak" Yeah! Though i suppose its all relative!
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Classic comment of the film. Adam Ondra "Basciallyi am just weak" Yeah! Though i suppose its all relative!
Thats what they all say! ::)
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Ive ordered the Dvd i will let you know when it comes as to whether or not the extras are worth it. I cant wait!!
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Suprisingly the bit that got me most psyched was the Paxi training stuff! Now that's dedication.
I'm intrigued - what was he doing?
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Tommy caldwell trying some crazy routes in yosmite...
Mescalito-New Dawn-Wall of Early Morning Light free, which will be the Astroman of the 21st century. An utterly amazing line.
Suprisingly the bit that got me most psyched was the Paxi training stuff! Now that's dedication.
Adam, you're a sad bastard!
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i agree that adam is a sad bastard :P but he's got a point
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The Patxi bit is amazing, it does a great job of conveying his passion for comp climbing.
Rock climbing is easy, competition climbing is complex and difficult
I think it's as good as any of the doses in terms of footage, but made better by the narrative.
I love how the grit stuff is juxtaposed with Hard Grit, which made headpointing look serious and tough, whereas Team America look like they're just having fun, and that everything is easy.
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The Patxi bit is amazing, it does a great job of conveying his passion for comp climbing.
Come on guys - what does he do?
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He doesn't have a rest day for 3 months!
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He doesn't have a rest day for 3 months!
Not even to go to church on Sundays? :o
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this is taking forever to download....
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Suprisingly the bit that got me most psyched was the Paxi training stuff! Now that's dedication.
I'm intrigued - what was he doing?
First he tells you he is training by doing 2500 moves a day, then he tells you this is seven days a week, then he says he hasn't had a rest day for three months. If you look at his blog there is an entry which states hes had a busy week with 150ish routes and 1200 pull ups. It does also show him having massage, acupuncture and ultra sound though. Its super inspiring because its all about effort and not just globe trotting from one great venue to another in a way that 99% of people Will never experience. Ultimately nearly everyone has access to wall/gym and could do it if they would.
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this is taking forever to download....
took about 18hrs to download, but was worth the wait. Agreed on the Patxi footage being very inspiring/motivational.
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Still awaiting the delivery of the dvd version i think the royal mail strikes are scuppering my viewing!! :wall:
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He doesn't have a rest day for 3 months!
That's nothing, Nodder didn't have a day off for 4 years! (allegedly)
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The Patxi bit is amazing, it does a great job of conveying his passion for comp climbing.
Come on guys - what does he do?
Most of the information is fairly freely available over what kind of training that people like Paxti and Ramon are doing - have a look at any of the work done by Binney or Macia and it pretty much gives it to you on a plate.
Everyone's always looking for some kind of holy grail, but mostly it's all hard work (carried out in a structured manner), dedication, self belief and consistency. Unfortunately for all of us.....! ::)
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What I wonder about is how much they train power compared to PE, stamina etc, and how to keep the quality up when training so much. Is it just that the likes of Patxi and Simpson recover at the speed of light so they can do their double session days every day of the week and not get too tired to train strength well? Or that making sure you're a bit fresh when you train maximal stuff isn't so important and we all need some more pain? Or that they have strength phases where they wreck themselves a lot less? Or that you have to put yourself through that for a while until your body adapts to recovering that quickly, and until it does you just take the hit and have unproductive sessions or only train stamina...? Or, as usual, am annoying combination off all of the above.
All answers will form the basis of my improved be-like-the-euro-beasts regime, and you will be held responsible if I don't climb 9a.
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don't work, do most of your climbing on bigger holds than are normally found at rubicon, start young, get trained/advice off people who know what they're talking about, live in a warmer climate than ours, weigh little or nothing, take some form of supplement.
patxi and simpson won't recover much faster than anyone else it's just that they accepted the consequences ie hard work, training twice a day equals a lot of stress and pain on the body. coupled with starting this in their growing years it just becomes the norm, as such they won't really think they train hard just that nearly everyone else doesn't.
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Spot on.
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FYI it's screening this Sunday at The Works as part of Reel Rock. Grimer will all being well be there. The Team America section in the Peak is both hilarious and awesome at the same time! A cracking film.