UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: Tris on September 28, 2009, 04:15:18 pm
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Just bought myself a new 70m skinny rope for the Euro trips.
Don't think I'm going to be too happy using it with my GriGri especially with the missus belaying, so was wondering about the Edelrid Eddy - anyone got one? Are they worth the extra cash? Anyone think they are better than a GriGri?
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Used one for about a month last year and I thought it was excellent and better than the Grigri on a number of counts. Firstly, it will work with thinner ropes. Secondly, when lowering, if you pull too hard on the handle, it locks again; much more foolproof. Thirdly, you can set the cam so that paying out slack is easy and you can use it in exactly the same way as a normal belay device i.e. with one hand constantly on the 'dead' rope. This means that it locks easily if you fall. I thought it was significantly safer than a Grigri, especially for anyone less experienced.
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Cheers - I'm trying to convince myself that 90 squid is worth it for a belay device :-\
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It is quite expensive for what it is though. A friend has the trango cinch which he rates highly. Have you considered that?
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Traditional stitch plate works for me :P
(But then I'm more of a trad than sport climber, but off to Sardinia in November for a week :thumbsup: )
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It is quite expensive for what it is though. A friend has the trango cinch which he rates highly. Have you considered that?
I did have a look at it, but people seemed to have mixed views. As far as I can tell the only gripe people have with the Eddy is the price?
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Traditional stitch plate works for me :P
I need a locking device though as I weigh a lot more than the missus and don't want to be dropped 35m :)
Have fun in Sardinia, not been there yet - it's on my list of places to visit.
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I need a locking device though as I weigh a lot more than the missus and don't want to be dropped 35m :)
Just make sure she doesn't have her hand too close to the plate or let go of the rope and with the friction in the system you should be okay, she'll only go as far as the first bolt!
Have fun in Sardinia, not been there yet - it's on my list of places to visit.
Looking forward to it :bounce:
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It is quite expensive for what it is though. A friend has the trango cinch which he rates highly. Have you considered that?
I did have a look at it, but people seemed to have mixed views. As far as I can tell the only gripe people have with the Eddy is the price?
I have used a cinch quite a bit with 9.1 - 10mm ropes . Initially i thought it was terrible, but after a couple of days, i totally changed my mind, it just works fairly differently to a grigri and takes a bit of getting used to, but seems excellent once wired. You can a) get lots of slack out very fast when needed b) never need to death grip it like you do with the trusty grigri. c) it doesn't take up half your rucksack like a Sum (faders) or an Eddy.
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it just works fairly differently to a grigri and takes a bit of getting used to, but seems excellent once wired.
I've read lowering is not so good?
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it just works fairly differently to a grigri and takes a bit of getting used to, but seems excellent once wired.
I've read lowering is not so good?
true, it is more difficult to finely control lowering than with the grigri because the lever is shorter, but after a day or two i thought it was fine.
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I was in Go Outdoors today and noticed they had one for sale. Didn't think to look but they have a price match policy anyway.
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Sod this kit nonsense, leave the missus at home and get yourself a proper belay bunny
(http://www.freakingnews.com/pictures/4500/Fat-Women--4944.jpg)
SOLID :)
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Sod this kit nonsense, leave the missus at home and get yourself a proper belay bunny
;D scary - more like a belay mammoth than a bunny :)