UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: tomtom on September 02, 2009, 06:14:02 pm
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Hello,
I was over at the Stockport wall (Awesome Walls) on Monday and they've cleared the area opposite the bouldering wall ready to expand the bouldering section (so someone said).. This should close to double the wall space they have there...
Tom
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PLEASE MAKE IT A STEEP BOARD WITH WOODEN HOLDS! :kiss1:
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PLEASE MAKE IT A STEEP BOARD WITH WOODEN HOLDS! :kiss1:
The only other thing I heard was someone saying it would look rather like the competition wall at the Works - which is fairly steep... all rumour though... Still, better than the party rooms for groups of 9 year olds which were there before...
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Hello,
I was over at the Stockport wall (Awesome Walls) on Monday and they've cleared the area opposite the bouldering wall ready to expand the bouldering section
Tom
Is the bouldering section still open? I'm probably going there tomorrow night (working away)
Cheers
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Hello,
I was over at the Stockport wall (Awesome Walls) on Monday and they've cleared the area opposite the bouldering wall ready to expand the bouldering section
Tom
Is the bouldering section still open? I'm probably going there tomorrow night (working away)
Cheers
Yeah, was on monday -they've cordoned off the new area (polish sparkys were in putting up the lights) but the regular area was fine..
T
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Cheers for that.
Hopefully it will not be as hot and stuffy as my last visit :-\
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i'm sure it will be hotter than the sun, and you'll leave with a dehydration headache.
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PLEASE MAKE IT A STEEP BOARD WITH WOODEN HOLDS! :kiss1:
I e-mailed Dave Douglas asking for just that, his reply:
Hi Nick
Thanks a lot for your suggestions. We’ll definitely be having a BIG steep board in there.
I’m still trying to pin down the builders for a date but all been well it should be completed by October.
Cheers
David Douglas
Managing Director
Awesome Walls Climbing Centres Ltd
Sounds promising!
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PLEASE MAKE IT A STEEP BOARD WITH WOODEN HOLDS! :kiss1:
I e-mailed Dave Douglas asking for just that, his reply:
Hi Nick
Thanks a lot for your suggestions. We’ll definitely be having a BIG steep board in there.
I’m still trying to pin down the builders for a date but all been well it should be completed by October.
Cheers
David Douglas
Managing Director
Awesome Walls Climbing Centres Ltd
Sounds promising!
Thats good news... should be ready for when the weather turns shit.. hold in, it already has turned shit....
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I'm looking forward to seeing what they'll do. I'd quite like to get membership as I end up splitting my time between Awesome, Rope Race for the steep board and Broughton. It's getting pretty expensive!
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I'm looking forward to seeing what they'll do. I'd quite like to get membership as I end up splitting my time between Awesome, Rope Race for the steep board and Broughton. It's getting pretty expensive!
Stockport normally have a good set of problems - though this lot are not so hot, more along the lines of harder problems = smaller holds rather than different/interesting/harder moves...
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i disagree. i think the recent set are actually good. its just a shame that everything is piss except for the red problems. so that'll be about 7 problems that take more than 1 go... not exactly worth getting membership for.
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i disagree. i think the recent set are actually good. its just a shame that everything is piss except for the red problems. so that'll be about 7 problems that take more than 1 go... not exactly worth getting membership for.
Fair enough.. for me the whites were all good and I did all of them fairly easily (couple of goes on some) but just cant get anywhere on any of the harder ones.. just a complete stonewall.. feels almost like one person has set the V0-V4 and someone else the V5 and higher.. Previous sets have been really good - plenty of variation within the grade band...
Its horses for courses I guess.. One thing's for sure, more wall space = more problems which means more to go at whatever your grade.. :)
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Maybe the confusion is being caused by them using a nonsense grading system. :shrug:
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Maybe the confusion is being caused by them using a nonsense grading system. :shrug:
:) Yup - I think V grades are pants - BUT... they work fairly well when across a range which removes some of their crapness..
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who cares.
Look at saltbeef
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Maybe the confusion is being caused by them using a nonsense grading system. :shrug:
i think its used because we're nearer that side of the atlantic here than the peak because it takes so long to get through fucking glossop/stockport.
that central board should be 50degrees and it should have more than 4 1a problems on it. hope it gets done quickly and well cos its only 10mins out of the way from my commute.
exactly jim have a look at me! (7bs indoors fucking waddage!)
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i disagree. i think the recent set are actually good. its just a shame that everything is piss except for the red problems. so that'll be about 7 problems that take more than 1 go... not exactly worth getting membership for.
Well you're obviously just a legend! ;)
I agree though, I like this set, flashed some orange, worked some and failed on some. Starting to make some headway on the reds. Bit softer than previos sets (though I've not been down for a few months) and many have succumbed to beta.
If they had a trianing board, membership would be worth it
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i disagree. i think the recent set are actually good.
Me too. I have never been before, and found the setting to be great. Ok, there wasn't anything hard, bar one problem.
Also the grading system in there is silly, to a non regular like myself i couldn't structure a decent session .
Looking forward to new board, will become much more regular then.
Oh and some heat control would be good, that fan is ok but just blows the warm air about!
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you hear that owners of climbing walls in manchester thats 3 people at least who would shell out if you had a training board! we're not all fat and climb 5b (Jim excepted).
yeah the oranges could've been harder. what i generally find is if vickers and cassidy don't set them then the harder problems are just reach dependent and appear to be set by people who wouldn't be able to climb them.
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that fan is ok
When little hoppo isn't stood in front of it blowing air up his shirt to make him look big ::)
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Oh well, I guess for you guys pulling at the harder grades its better - I just couldnt get near any of them :shrug:
They need to sort out the ventilation in there though... that single fan is useless.. it was missing last time I was there apparently because it stopped people hearing the music :-\
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you hear that owners of climbing walls in manchester thats 3 people at least who would shell out if you had a training board!
Why not let Stockport know? Email addresses are:
Generic: stockport@awesomewalls.co.uk
Dave Douglas: daved@awesomewalls.co.uk
As well as a big steep board maybe a P.E./circuits training area, systems board?
Maybe you could also mention that all you training machines would wander round topless giving the guys something to aspire to and the girls something to oggle at? ;)
(Apart from that guy who started a thread whinging about topless men obviously)
P.S. Adam, I'm the chap (Nick) who came over and said hi at Awesome.
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done.. just forwarded the thread..
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P.S. Adam, I'm the chap (Nick) who came over and said hi at Awesome.
Nice to meet you. :beer2:
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I kinda of agree with Adam and saltbeef on the Red's. Me and Sugden managed to get most of them in the session bar the red in the middle of the centre panel. Bit of a weird foot clamp dyno leftwards off the volume (unless that was the previous set, aint been for about 4 weeks).
I did say to Dave to put a training board in when Myself, Stu and Fatneck were putting ideas in to the build of the new bouldering area before it got built. It was ignored as being too niche/elitist and didn't cater for the majority of customers. Good to see that it will now eventually have one... 2 years later to catch up with other walls ::)
The campus board is good however and massively better than the one in Liverpool (which does however have an ok 45 board and beastmaker).
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please remove the jugs above the fingerboard. forever i see people hauling themselves upward, elbows screaming, as they shock load their elbows... this can't be good. it also cluttesrs up the campus board . (i'm sure they aren't standard rung distances!)
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please remove the jugs above the fingerboard. forever i see people hauling themselves upward, elbows screaming, as they shock load their elbows... this can't be good. it also cluttesrs up the campus board . (i'm sure they aren't standard rung distances!)
Oh I love watching punters 'training'. You get some incredible shit pulled on the campus board at the castle.
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(i'm sure they aren't standard rung distances!)
Do you mean the campus rungs aren't official distances? :'(
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They're a bit short IIRC but not that much. Might pop down for a snoop around later - will take a tape measure if I do.
Chatting to staff member about a month ago he said quite a bit of easy stuff likely in the new area as well as harder, or some reorganisation of the problems to the same effect: as most of Dave's customers won't be pulling V7 so he's going to be looking to enhance capacity there too, not just give your tyraining routine a leg up! That said he's not oblivious to the harder-climbing market so I'm sure there will be some decent provision for us.
Re grades and problems some staff boulderers are pretty handy and generally seem to set fun problems - grades don't matter really if they're consistent: I just subtract one V grade in most cases.
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They're a bit short IIRC but not that much.
But I'd ticked 1-4-6 on small rungs as Font 7a on my 8a.nu scorecard. Will I have to take it off?
(In the e-mail I sent I said I realised they had to cater to the lower grade climbing masses but having a few beast crushing hard stuff improves the image of the place imo)
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After having a few uneventful visits...the concept of a new wall/board really does make me want to go back there. :goodidea:
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The campus board is good however and massively better than the one in Liverpool (which does however have an ok 45 board and beastmaker).
The 45 could be miles miles better. Painting it was the stupidest thing one could do you have to agree crouch? The Beastmaker is also yours. Sad state of affairs that you have to bring in your own property to facilitate a good training session!
I know Dave hasn't had interest in bouldering before or in supplying a training board but the popularity of the sport inevitably means more people will come through the ranks and want something to train on. That group of people already exist and have done for some time (hence we made two of our own boards).Commercially speaking, I can understand that Dave has arguably been right to direct his focus upon furnishing the means to cater for school groups/youth groups etc but surely 10 years on since it's opening it might finally be time to look at recycling resources or drafting in materials to cater for the growing number of people requiring a proper training facility?
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...we're not all fat and climb 5b.
well, some of us are beef! :-[
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Nice! I shall have to pop by.
I was not especially impressed with the bouldering at the Manchester Climbing Centre. Was only climbing the super easy stuff, but there was not a lot of bouldering to go at, at any grade it seemed. And acres of board with no holds on it!
Ok for a lunch time session though.
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dunno what the distances are, but they seem long. ie harder than normal. i did 1 4 7 there for the first time last week, and i was comfortably doing 1 5 7 at the works and getting near 1 5 8 the other week (let the barracking begin!)
anyway i'm looking forward to a steep wall nearby.
and rginns i'm sure that people basically get used to their lowest common deniminator. so if theres a steep wall and you climb on it you're gonna get stronger, cause and effect
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Ahem :oops:
I do know what distances the rungs are: large and medium are 23cm/9" spacing and the small rungs are about 22.75cm/87/8"
So I was talking bullocks. Well there's a first time for everything. Rich Simpson on Moonclimbing site recommends 22cm FWIW: I suppose that's the standard.
Re the routesetters, Tom told me tonight he's done an 8a namely Pete's Power Pull there-and-back @Tom's Roof. He didn't say much about which footholds to use though :-\ Good effort in my opinion and this is a passing comment not publicity to be compared with any other climbing wall staff who may/may not have done what their mates have publicised on their behalf. And it isn't reported onred-tits.com so don't go looking for corroboration there :)
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Rung sizes and spacing
An ideal campus board will have a few different sized rungs, spaced at around 22cm apart
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The Works campus board is 'regulation', as in the board is the correct angle and the rungs are spaced at the same distance as the School (RIP).
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And apparently there will be a steep thing, though Dave's not giving out lots of details.
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I'd love this new section of wall to be good, as Stockport is now much closer to me than manchester wall. However, the devil is always in the details with these things. A 50 degree board covered in jugs with one token v8 up the middle is not going to change anything.
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Get Hession on the setting. The one token V8 would then be V16.
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anyway i'm looking forward to a steep wall nearby.
the garage season will be starting again soon ;D
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I'm travelling to you Jim until a new decent board turns up in the pool.
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The 45 could be miles miles better. Painting it was the stupidest thing one could do you have to agree crouch? The Beastmaker is also yours. Sad state of affairs that you have to bring in your own property to facilitate a good training session!
To be fair, nobody asked Dave to get one for the centre, I did so of my own accord as to share it with those still on the waiting list or with nowhere to put one at home. Spoke to him today and he said he would be open to getting one in (that isn't my own!)
There will be new developments with a new woodie being constructed as well as a campus board... so I think you should hold on to your thoughts for now and wait to see what emerges :thumbsup:
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I'm travelling to you Jim until a new decent board turns up in the pool.
You're always welcome in Widnes Tom
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There will be new developments with a new woodie being constructed as well as a campus board... so I think you should hold on to your thoughts for now and wait to see what emerges :thumbsup:
I'll retain a firm grasp on my thoughts ricardo and an even firmer grasp on my own fingerboard where I'm not likely to grease off and brain a 4 year old called Chelsea with a mum called Kelsie.
Capiche?
Thanks Andy, that's much appreciated.
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There will be new developments with a new woodie being constructed as well as a campus board... so I think you should hold on to your thoughts for now and wait to see what emerges :thumbsup:
Could you extend your influence over Dave to ensure a fantastic new 45 with wooden holds in Stockport?
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I'm sure you probably all know this but there is a 45 degree board at Broughton. It may not be perfect but the wall is pretty much self regulated so if anyone wanted to make improvements to it I doubt there'd be anything to stop them.
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It may not be perfect but the wall is pretty much self regulated so if anyone wanted to make improvements to it I doubt there'd be anything to stop them.
Mwah Mwah Mwah
http://www.canpages.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/dr-evil.jpg (http://www.canpages.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/dr-evil.jpg)
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any progress here? last time i was there they'd deconstructed those little rooms and there was some poor sole whittling some wood.
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any progress here? last time i was there they'd deconstructed those little rooms and there was some poor sole whittling some wood.
Every time I go down there I think there'll be some progress. You'll be pleased to know all the wood has been whittled, some has been moved and said whittler has been promoted to hoover-er. I was told October but I'd not expect much this side of Christmas at this rate.
I was also told Johnny Brown of this parish is doing the constructing (or had a least been over to have a look/quote so he might be the chap to ask).
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any progress here? last time i was there they'd deconstructed those little rooms and there was some poor sole whittling some wood.
Was that last friday? I was there then and some poor soul was sat chopping bits of wood in two with a saw - on the floor. Reminded me of someone breaking stones in a labour camp...
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I was also told Johnny Brown of this parish is doing the constructing (or had a least been over to have a look/quote so he might be the chap to ask).
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You mean andy, not adam
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By god, can you imagine a climbing wall constructed by Adam Long? it would be like the plantation, only slippier
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any progress here? last time i was there they'd deconstructed those little rooms and there was some poor sole whittling some wood.
They're into critical theory? It'd be better to employ some builders IMHO
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I was also told Johnny Brown of this parish is doing the constructing (or had a least been over to have a look/quote so he might be the chap to ask).
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You mean andy, not adam
I was told Adam but after a quick google, it turns out I do indeed mean Andy.
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I'm sure you probably all know this but there is a 45 degree board at Broughton. It may not be perfect but the wall is pretty much self regulated so if anyone wanted to make improvements to it I doubt there'd be anything to stop them.
I'm not sure if I was being prophetic when I wrote the above or just unobservant as I hadn't noticed until today that some changes have already been made. Either way the 45 degree woodie has had all the large holds replaced by smaller ones, some little foot holds have been added. In additon there are now proper rungs on the campus board. Its now a proper hard core trainging venue, albeit one that is too hard core for me.
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I know a guy who works there and the final plans were in place for the wall and construction began yesterday. From what i gathered there is going to be:
A stepped roof area,
Concave & convex walls - I don't think they're sure of the angles yet,
45 degree woodie.
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45 degree woodie.
I'm sure the technical term is a semi ::)
sorry couldn't help it, my touch-typing has a mind of it's own.
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The structures went up a few days ago and they look monstrous! I can't wait for them to get completed.
I just hope they don't put problems on it. Would be much better as a big training board with stamina circuits on it.
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I hope they don't put stamina circuits on it. It is big but could probably only accomodate two sweaty, flailing people going round a circuit at one time while others wait to have their go to battle the grease. Who want stamina at this time of year anyway!? I hope they cover it small holds and pinches!
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has no one taken any pics? The suspense is killing me...
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(http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs241.snc1/8833_304750570450_559455450_9394256_6336320_n.jpg)
There you go
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(http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs241.snc1/8833_304750570450_559455450_9394256_6336320_n.jpg)
There you go
:dance1: Cool!
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Thanks it's looking good!
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That new bit of Logport looks really good. The holds were very dirty on the pre existing bit this saturday, but I understand they were due a reset so is probably all sorted now. And, it was hotter than the sun. I stank by the time I left.
Rumour was that painting (shame) and setting will have begun on monday.
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Rumour was that painting (shame) and setting will have begun on monday.
Has the matting all been done?
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No. There was foam ready to be covered off to the side though, so it looks to have arrived. Dont know if you would paint it above mats anyway would you?
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No. There was foam ready to be covered off to the side though, so it looks to have arrived. Dont know if you would paint it above mats anyway would you?
:-[ Good point. Apparently, the word on the street is it'll be half fixed holds/training board and half problems. Can't wait.
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No. There was foam ready to be covered off to the side though, so it looks to have arrived. Dont know if you would paint it above mats anyway would you?
:-[ Good point. Apparently, the word on the street is it'll be half fixed holds/training board and half problems. Can't wait.
Went there on Monday whilst new probs were being set (didnt see the sign it was closed - doh!) and had a chat with the guys on the desk about it.
Apparently its waiting for some new types of Tnut to come in before it can be finished (they're front rather than rear mounted -? -?) and it may be a week or so before they are delivered... then mats.. painting etc..
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Was there last night. Painting has started, designs and colours appear to have been inspired by Sesame Street. Been told T-nuts need to be installed on the curved sections.
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(http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs241.snc1/8833_304750570450_559455450_9394256_6336320_n.jpg)
There you go
mint
are they gonna mat the whole area? hate to swing out from the top, fall onto the walkway and crush a 5 year old having the best time of his/her life at his/her birthday party who was just having a wandering gawp abt unsupervised
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Dont worry about the 5 yr old, if you did that you'd break yer legs a la Bennett corner!
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I have been told it is going to be matted up to the wooden box.
If they run underneath you as you are falling off there isn't much you can do.
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I think they legally have to mat it underneath and 2m beyond or something like that :yawn:
looks good, shame its not ready or raining ;D
dont worry we wont be trying to pop any balloons with our little fingers ;)
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Nope there is no legal obligation to provide mats, it's just that if you didn't you wouldn't have many customers.
BS EN 12572-II tells you about matting but is not a legal obligation but is best practise so following it always helps in those pesky court cases.
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Has anyone heard anything about the board's progress. After Seasame Street vomited on it nothing has happened.
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They need mat covers delivering.
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Has anyone heard anything about the board's progress. After Seasame Street vomited on it nothing has happened.
;D thats about spot on...
Apparently half of the LH side will be a woody..
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anyone know when (or if!) the new area will be finished?
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When the mats arrive, which is........
However, I have been told problems are supposed to be being set on some of it very soon. Possibly a good sign.
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I heard rumours some strong beasts came in and attached lots of colourful grips to the wall today. The woody is still work in progress and features a quite comical addition ;)
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Nevermind this - Broughton power is the way forward.
As soon as I stop being injured I will be there
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Nevermind this - Broughton power is the way forward.
As soon as I stop being injured I will be there
:agree: yes yes, Broughton is the future...
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I have been informed that the covers for the matting is supposed to arrive today. Whether they go on at any point soon is another matter
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I have been informed that the covers for the matting is supposed to arrive today. Whether they go on at any point soon is another matter
So does that mean it is open for use yet? I haven't been for a few months and was planning on heading over there tomorrow...
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I have been informed that the covers for the matting is supposed to arrive today. Whether they go on at any point soon is another matter
So does that mean it is open for use yet? I haven't been for a few months and was planning on heading over there tomorrow...
(http://www.istockphoto.com/file_thumbview_approve/1457080/2/istockphoto_1457080-how-long-is-a-piece-of-string.jpg)
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Oooh - 9cm, not long now :lol:
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I have been informed that the covers for the matting is supposed to arrive today. Whether they go on at any point soon is another matter
So does that mean it is open for use yet? I haven't been for a few months and was planning on heading over there tomorrow...
There might be quite a few topless gents there.............
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There might be quite a few topless gents there.............
Enlighten me please? Will it be this bad? ;D
(http://www.legaljuice.com/topless%20men%20males%20shirtless%20no%20shirts.jpg)
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I've spotted Jim, John Cooke, Westie, Saltbeef, Kim and the fat kid from the Osbornes
Anyone else?
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crimping harris on the right
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Sloper reclining at the front, Lagers three people back from him.
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I'm the guy in the aviators... right?
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Tan Man left of Lagers. Will Hunt (showing his angry face) left of Sloper.
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Jasper ogling TanMan's traps. Hockstack left of, SamD right of, next to Lagers "brother". Crouch behind Jordan(on the left).
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R-man with backwards cap on............
Vote for this to move to Shit isn't it thread?
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That's nik with the backwards cap isn't it?
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Too tall to be me, I think it might be Nigel.
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no, he's not kneeling down. Its definitely you Nik
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I'm the guy in the aviators... right?
actually you're lying on the floor, bottom right.
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that's sloper.
Mini Pickles front and centre
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no, he's not kneeling down. Its definitely you Nik
:lol:
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So apart from it being UKB night tonight at Stockport, is there any reason why I shouldn't go? Sensible answers please ;D
Or was the response from galpinos a bonus, not a warning? I have no issues with men without shirts on, so long as the baby oil is left at home.
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All opened yesterday so reckon a trip this evening will be in order!
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So apart from it being UKB night tonight at Stockport, is there any reason why I shouldn't go? Sensible answers please ;D
Or was the response from galpinos a bonus, not a warning? I have no issues with men without shirts on, so long as the baby oil is left at home.
I seemed to remember you started a thread be-moaning people climbing with there tops off, I obviously got the wrong person! :'( Sorry.
I shall be heading down. I'll be the chap crushing everything in the V3-4 band. :thumbsup:
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I seemed to remember you started a thread be-moaning people climbing with there tops off, I obviously got the wrong person! :'( Sorry.
I shall be heading down. I'll be the chap crushing everything in the V3-4 band. :thumbsup:
The only thread I've ever started about Stockport Wall was earlier this year over on the other channel (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=347178), and was about the grading in the bouldering room. No topless men were featured in the thread, sorry ;)
I'll be the chap trying to show a novice (my mate) how to climb.
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I seemed to remember you started a thread be-moaning people climbing with there tops off, I obviously got the wrong person! :'( Sorry.
I shall be heading down. I'll be the chap crushing everything in the V3-4 band. :thumbsup:
The only thread I've ever started about Stockport Wall was earlier this year over on the other channel (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=347178), and was about the grading in the bouldering room. No topless men were featured in the thread, sorry ;)
I'll be the chap trying to show a novice (my mate) how to climb.
I would say, "Say hi" but with Tan Man heading down I doubt we'll see anything bar his orange glow. :)
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I seemed to remember you started a thread be-moaning people climbing with there tops off, I obviously got the wrong person! :'( Sorry.
I shall be heading down. I'll be the chap crushing everything in the V3-4 band. :thumbsup:
The only thread I've ever started about Stockport Wall was earlier this year over on the other channel (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=347178), and was about the grading in the bouldering room. No topless men were featured in the thread, sorry ;)
I'll be the chap trying to show a novice (my mate) how to climb.
I would say, "Say hi" but with Tan Man heading down I doubt we'll see anything bar his orange glow. :)
Have you not seen the weather of late? I am as pale as a pale thing that's been locked in a pale room in palesville.
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Wot no.....
(http://images.929.com.au/2009/04/02/160496/EmSamMac-SamSprayTan-13-600x400.jpg)
:-\ ;)
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Have you not seen the weather of late? I am as pale as a pale thing that's been locked in a pale room in palesville.
Was just going on the "Pump up the power" photo! ;)
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Have you not seen the weather of late? I am as pale as a pale thing that's been locked in a pale room in palesville.
Was just going on the "Pump up the power" photo! ;)
Ha, no just a badly saturated pic!
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Wot no.....
(http://images.929.com.au/2009/04/02/160496/EmSamMac-SamSprayTan-13-600x400.jpg)
:-\ ;)
Is that how they do it? :shrug:
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Fuck knows. Dont think I'm the right person to ask about tans whether fake or otherwise!
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what about skin bleeching then
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How dare you? It's all natural.
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Well i went, and thought it was ok. Added a new dimension to stuff already there. Most people where falling off because of the grease. Far too warm in there early on. Cooled down a bit later. Steep training board will be good, but needs to be just screw on for feet, or the holds are going to become pretty ming and the wood ones will break.
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I thought it looked really good. I only did the V1/V2 things on the right hand side as I was with my mate who was climbing for the second time.
I did think it was quite high. It seemed higher than the other side? I predict many twisted ankles...
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It isn't that high. However, you may be right about the twisted ankle (or some other form of injury) on the blue dyno problem that is currently up. (not quite as easy as it looks if you are a shorty like me)
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That blue dyno was good fun today! Shame we were half zombied for the entirety of the brief session, after a miserable attempt stomping around trying to find dry problems in the peak :thumbsdown:
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It isn't that high. However, you may be right about the twisted ankle (or some other form of injury) on the blue dyno problem that is currently up. (not quite as easy as it looks if you are a shorty like me)
Spoke too soon, was informed that this has already happened to somebody.
I think it is probably wise for them to put a sign up regarding under 18s, like most walls have on their woodie.
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was discussing with dr pinch about the blue dyno. i hate that sort of shit. it inevitably attracts flailing macho punters and they always end in tears. Its dangerous.
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Saw two youths trying this problem yesterday. One took really hard tumble and was lucky not to knacker his knee or ankle.
Great new wall. I thought some of the problems were a bit juggy and dynamic and would like to see some with more holds but smaller.
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yes. defo more small holds on the steep bit. less volume type holds and lots of screw ons on the training board please
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I'll have to confess I was responsible for the blue dyno thing. Thought it was relatively safe when I tested it but it appears not so! Has the problem been people stretching their left foot across to a blue off the neighbouring problem, getting left hand in the pocket and then decking it greasing off for the last hold or from the actual jump from balls to disc? :oops:
The idea was to just get the disc then campus up to the finish via the pocket.
Apart from that... I agree the set is a bit burly and dynamic and I already spoke to James and Tom about the screwons for the woody issue. I think Dave/Andy are getting some more in that can be used to get the board up to speed. I think the angles on the walls to the right are fantastic and the green volume is very good (on the right 45 board for linking everything).
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leave the dyno in, just cos idiots throw themselves at it or that saltbeef doesn't jump doesn't mean some of us can't enjoy it responsibly.
Bouldering is not 100% safe, thats what makes it fun sometimes.
I thought the problems on the new bit were good, most of them quite hard but then again I haven't been climbing for ages.
The woodie seems good, need to number the holds and get a problem book. Don't plaster it with screw on's, it'll make it log.
Saltbeef was struggling with the jugs anyway
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and the green volume is very good (on the right 45 board for linking everything).
Only it was pretty minging by Wednesday last week, so will be a smeg fest now. Good set though Rich :)
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I was there earlier today - and from a punters point of view I liked the new wall - some good easier stuff there and the harder stuff was not just smaller holds (as it can be on the older sections)...
:thumbsup:
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Apart from that... I agree the set is a bit burly and dynamic and I already spoke to James and Tom about the screwons for the woody issue. I think Dave/Andy are getting some more in that can be used to get the board up to speed. I think the angles on the walls to the right are fantastic and the green volume is very good (on the right 45 board for linking everything).
good. the footers will help on that board. i agree the new wall is good. but as ru says 1 v8 isn't going to change anything. more 7a-7c please. as adam said that green hold was well smee. Jim, we did nearly all the problems, grow a memory! what are you going to do next time you're there? and your idea of training is doing stuff in your trainers until your goosed after half an hour!
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if jim doesn't grow a memory he can do everything again for the first time. i've always wondered how can someone who is allergic to rest not be able to climb loads of moves?
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Dynos on a board? what? Surely there's enough surface in the rest of the wall of novelty problems?! Remember - you dont boulder for fun, you boulder for power. Jugs at the top mean you can lurch for them from miles away - small holds at the top mean you have to keep trying to the last, and have the added side affect of keeping aforementioned dynoing punter away.
Remember to forget Jim's screw on foothold advice.
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Naa the dyno isnt on the board its on the concave wall next to the board
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anyone got some links to some pics of the new board/s
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(http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs241.snc1/8833_304750570450_559455450_9394256_6336320_n.jpg)
There you go
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There is also another section on the far end which is stepped (overhangs) that doesn't seem to be on that photo (or is well hidden). It has a nice blue mono problem on it.
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(http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs241.snc1/8833_304750570450_559455450_9394256_6336320_n.jpg)
There you go
does look pretty high although hard to gauge in the photo without the mats shown. Is it as high as sector 3 at broughton you reckon ste?
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(http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs241.snc1/8833_304750570450_559455450_9394256_6336320_n.jpg)
There you go
does look pretty high although hard to gauge in the photo without the mats shown. Is it as high as sector 3 at broughton you reckon ste?
I have to say the issue of height never entered my head, even when doing the dyno. Now the temperature of the wall, on the other hand, was on my mind all the time.
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looks steeper and slightly higher. it'll never be as gnarly tho
not been down personally yet, was gonna head down to meet jas but i went out to eat instead
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Now the temperature of the wall, on the other hand, was on my mind all the time.
isnt the same when you can't get a tan too eh? :P
heating does seem to be a problem at stockport bouldering, ok till you're fully warmed up and ready to get on some harder probs
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Now the temperature of the wall, on the other hand, was on my mind all the time.
isnt the same when you can't get a tan too eh? :P
heating does seem to be a problem at stockport bouldering, ok till you're fully warmed up and ready to get on some harder probs
are we saying too hot or too cold? (hmm can indoor climbing be too cold?)
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Now the temperature of the wall, on the other hand, was on my mind all the time.
isnt the same when you can't get a tan too eh? :P
heating does seem to be a problem at stockport bouldering, ok till you're fully warmed up and ready to get on some harder probs
are we saying too hot or too cold? (hmm can indoor climbing be too cold?)
Too hot. I know i will avoid the place till it gets sorted.
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too hot
definately not broughton in terms of climbing 6b+ in a down jacket
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[/quote]
does look pretty high although hard to gauge in the photo without the mats shown. Is it as high as sector 3 at broughton you reckon ste?
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Feels higher cos you're leaning so far back, tho actually similar.
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Anybody on for some logport bloc action tonight? Or indeed Depot tomorrow(after new prob setting)
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saltbeef is down there, i may join him if I can get the house remortgaged
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saltbeef is down there, i may join him if I can get the house remortgaged
Is the going to the wall really that expensive these days!?
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£7.50
I'm not on doctors wages
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Jesus, that place got busy. Spent a pleasant evening's ogling on/off some well set high jinx. Missing a trick with the new board, with no book/numbers, for you locals. Enjoyed following SaltBeef and Chris? round, as they showed me how to fall off most of the blacks. ;D. Will deffo be back next reset...
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the bank declined my loan request so I couldn't join you
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Jesus, that place got busy. Spent a pleasant evening's ogling on/off some well set high jinx. Missing a trick with the new board, with no book/numbers, for you locals. Enjoyed following SaltBeef and Chris? round, as they showed me how to fall off most of the blacks. ;D. Will deffo be back next reset...
Steady on Rob, I nearly took that as a compliment!
Dave D.
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Not sure about the new set of problems. They could make more use of the space and there are no blacks on the roof or the steep wall right of the barrel. The black set are well set and climb very nicely but are too easy overall.
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They could make more use of the space
If this is a thread for constructive comment, as it seems to becoming... I agree with John, there just don't seem to be that many problems in the current set. Surely there is room for either another coloured circuit or simply more in each of the existing circuits.
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They could make more use of the space
If this is a thread for constructive comment, as it seems to becoming... I agree with John, there just don't seem to be that many problems in the current set. Surely there is room for either another coloured circuit or simply more in each of the existing circuits.
An increasing grade circuit (like the pinks at the depot) would be a good idea (increasing from v1-v5 as you work thorugh them etc..)