UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => chuffing => beta - chuffing => Topic started by: uptown on July 25, 2009, 09:43:10 pm

Title: Yorkshire ripper.
Post by: uptown on July 25, 2009, 09:43:10 pm: I'm rather keen on trying the 3*** 8b Pegg Kilnsey classic that no-one else seems to have tried / know anything about.
Shout out if you're the exception and your pearls of wisdom are worthy, or if anyone fancies teaming up for a shot.
Also is it thus named for a reason other than having small sharp holds?
Great gurns can be found in TPOC, and the Roll of honour lists Tony Mitchell (twice) and Jibe Tribout.
Surely someone else has done it since 1991? ???
Title: Re: Yorkshire ripper.
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 25, 2009, 09:45:10 pm: I am pretty sure Aaron Tonks has done this, and i have belayed Arran Deakin on this a few times. Can't really tell you much more apart from the bolts are not great,and its pretty sharp.
Title: Re: Yorkshire ripper.
Post by: nik at work on July 25, 2009, 09:48:11 pm: I'll give it a dabble UTG. I'm happy to fail at any grade :)
Title: Re: Yorkshire ripper.
Post by: Nike Air on August 11, 2009, 09:29:49 am: Whats the score with this route then? is it in a climbable state, holds still intake.
Tried it years and years and years ago before i climbed 8a+ and remember having to bail off a krab half way up. sad times, tail between the leg times. Maybe its time to get my krab back hey.
Title: Re: Yorkshire ripper.
Post by: Probes on August 11, 2009, 03:27:16 pm: Belayed aaron on it a few times last year.. its ready to go with a clean i think.
Title: Re: Yorkshire ripper.
Post by: north_country_boy on August 11, 2009, 08:54:05 pm: I know of at least one person who hasn't been mentioned who has done it, and I would guess that was in the last 5-10 years.

I'd be keen to know the score with this too......
Title: Re: Yorkshire ripper.
Post by: uptown on August 11, 2009, 09:01:15 pm: Quote from: north_country_boy on August 11, 2009, 08:54:05 pm
I'd be keen to know the score with this too......

I was chatting with PC today, he reckoned it was all down to a very hard crux section which hadn't been comfortised.
Incidentally it was dry enough to work on today.
Title: Re: Yorkshire ripper.
Post by: north_country_boy on August 12, 2009, 12:28:06 am: Quote from: uptownguru on August 11, 2009, 09:01:15 pm
Quote from: north_country_boy on August 11, 2009, 08:54:05 pm
I'd be keen to know the score with this too......

I was chatting with PC today, he reckoned it was all down to a very hard crux section which hadn't been comfortised.
Incidentally it was dry enough to work on today.

I'll get the lowdown from said ascentionist when I see him....
Title: Re: Yorkshire ripper.
Post by: Andy F on August 12, 2009, 12:35:20 am: Quote from: Adam Lincoln on July 25, 2009, 09:45:10 pm
I am pretty sure Aaron Tonks has done this, and i have belayed Arran Deakin on this a few times. Can't really tell you much more apart from the bolts are not great,and its pretty sharp.

Aaron hasn't done it (yet). I've also belayed him on it a few times, and it looks tough. The bolts are probabaly Dave Pegg's form back in the day and may well need replacing. As Jibe said (after his acsent) "Definative 8b".
Title: Re: Yorkshire ripper.
Post by: corniceman on August 12, 2009, 03:48:10 pm: yeah pretty sure reevie ticked it in 90's and mike Lee too. I nearly did it at a similar time 94 or 95 but bailed off top. For me I think it harder than other Kilnsey 8b i've done (Ecstacy) mainly as its crimpy and a bit run out from bolt 3 to 4 if I remember rightly.
Title: Re: Yorkshire ripper.
Post by: Paul B on August 13, 2009, 09:26:24 pm: I went on it recently with high hopes and found it all a bit disappointing. The holds are grim and I like sh*tty crimps, they're just unpleasant. I seem to remember one of the bolts (near the crux?) was a rusty wire around the threaded bar. I was also told this was likely to be replaced soon?
The lower wall is easy then the holds run out and it tends rightwards around a small bulge like feature (crux) before again easing off for the top bit.
Title: Re: Yorkshire ripper.
Post by: north_country_boy on August 14, 2009, 03:13:37 pm: Quote from: Paul B on August 13, 2009, 09:26:24 pm
I went on it recently with high hopes and found it all a bit disappointing. The holds are grim and I like sh*tty crimps, they're just unpleasant. I seem to remember one of the bolts (near the crux?) was a rusty wire around the threaded bar. I was also told this was likely to be replaced soon?
The lower wall is easy then the holds run out and it tends rightwards around a small bulge like feature (crux) before again easing off for the top bit.

Spoke to Reeve about this the other night, he did it late 90's as Simon said, along with Mike Lea. He said he found it fairly straightforward for 8b, and didn't understand why it got a reputation as a tough 8b. He even said he thought it was easier than ecstasy.....(take all that with a pinch of salt)

However, he said there was a really long move passing the bulge once you have traversed right, to come back left where Mike Lea had to go direct due to a lack of reach.....this he said was very hard!

Hopefuuly I'll get on it soon and check out what its like for myself....
Title: Re: Yorkshire ripper.
Post by: Paul B on August 14, 2009, 06:08:38 pm: I'd argue the ectasy point somewhat...
Title: Re: Yorkshire ripper.
Post by: uptown on August 14, 2009, 10:28:46 pm: Quote from: Paul B on August 13, 2009, 09:26:24 pm
I seem to remember one of the bolts (near the crux?) was a rusty wire around the threaded bar. I was also told this was likely to be replaced soon?

I think that's still there, there are three newish resins in the lower wall though. I'll get on it when I'm back from hols, if it still needs a new bolt then, I'll do the deed.