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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Andy W on June 30, 2009, 09:37:53 am

Title: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: Andy W on June 30, 2009, 09:37:53 am
I've got golfers elbow. Not bad but enough niggle on  90 degree lock and deep locks to take notice and give it some rest and treatment. I've noticed whilst 'testing it' that there is no pain on a straightish arm which has led me to wonder if deadhanging on a board might be an ok excersise to do. So my question is as anyone got any knowledge or understanding on this one? cheers
Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: slackline on June 30, 2009, 09:51:17 am
Press-ups are supposedly good for strengthening dodgy elbows like that.
Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: mrjonathanr on June 30, 2009, 10:11:57 am
Thought totally straight arm hangs were more likely to inflame elbow tendons?
Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: Andy W on June 30, 2009, 10:16:48 am
no I mean straight ish, not totally straight.
Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: nash1 on June 30, 2009, 12:46:34 pm
I've got golfers elbow. Not bad but enough niggle on  90 degree lock and deep locks to take notice and give it some rest and treatment.

What treatment are you giving it? I have had G Elbow since March and it is not clearing up, I am off climbing pretty much altogether now, but still no joy. Doing the reverse wrist curl thing and had some shock therapy on it and no major improvements. I am thinking Cortisone soon.
Nightmare...

Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: Andy W on June 30, 2009, 03:14:12 pm
I've got golfers elbow. Not bad but enough niggle on  90 degree lock and deep locks to take notice and give it some rest and treatment.

What treatment are you giving it? I have had G Elbow since March and it is not clearing up, I am off climbing pretty much altogether now, but still no joy. Doing the reverse wrist curl thing and had some shock therapy on it and no major improvements. I am thinking Cortisone soon.
Nightmare...



everything this guy says  http://www.athlon.com.au/ (http://www.athlon.com.au/)   seems pretty good


Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: 205Chris on June 30, 2009, 04:48:47 pm
I'm no expert but I've had something similar. Check out the advice for dodgy elbows on the above website, worked well for me.

Even when suffering really badly with my elbows I found I could still deadhang with my arms almost straight without aggravating them. This was at a time when even two pull ups would start making my elbows ache.
Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: stom on June 30, 2009, 10:08:17 pm
I've got golfers elbow. Not bad but enough niggle on  90 degree lock and deep locks to take notice and give it some rest and treatment.

What treatment are you giving it? I have had G Elbow since March and it is not clearing up, I am off climbing pretty much altogether now, but still no joy. Doing the reverse wrist curl thing and had some shock therapy on it and no major improvements. I am thinking Cortisone soon.
Nightmare...


It took me 6 months last year to get over my golfers ( 3 months of following the reverse wrist curls and pronator teres exercise in article below finally sorted them out)! I wouldnt go down the cortisone route if I were you a bit of general searching on the web will give you an idea why!

http://www.athlon.com.au/articles/r&i_dodgyelbow.pdf (http://www.athlon.com.au/articles/r&i_dodgyelbow.pdf)
Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: nash1 on July 01, 2009, 11:19:21 am
Good feedback. Thanks.
I am doing the stuff from that guy, maybe I just need to be more patient, only been doing it for a month.
There is kind mixed reports about cortisone, some say it is great as long as it is put in the right place, others say a big NO to it.
Anyone actually had it in their elbows??

Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: stom on July 01, 2009, 01:32:15 pm
Probably also worth reading The Sausages post regarding elbow injuries.  It's linked below....

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10847.msg182899.html#msg182899 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10847.msg182899.html#msg182899)
Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: a dense loner on July 01, 2009, 06:05:31 pm
my left elbow has been fucked for at least the last 2 years. i deadhang on nearly straight arms, this causes me no pain at all compared to considerable pain deadhanging locked. as for cortisone, its only pain
Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: Andy W on July 01, 2009, 06:26:58 pm
my left elbow has been fucked for at least the last 2 years. i deadhang on nearly straight arms, this causes me no pain at all compared to considerable pain deadhanging locked. as for cortisone, its only pain

Thats kind of what I was thinking that if there was no pain, then it was ok.
Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: undertow on July 03, 2009, 03:56:14 pm
I know that you're all liable to be sceptical,as I was,but a homeopathic cure Ruta Graveolens definitely worked for me on Lateral epicondylitis(Tennis elbow).A GP told me conventional cures were ineffective and that from his own experience it seemed to work,after I tried it I was convinced enough to recommend it to another climber.After he realised how nothing else was working he reluctantly gave it a go and same as me in 2 to 4 weeks it had cleared up.Get 30c strength usually just labelled Ruta over the net,or some branches of Boots,it is only about a fiver so cheaper than a physio and worth trying.I was able to climb overhangs,campus etc. without pain after about 3 weeks.Just take it 3 times a day and no you don't have to believe it will work,I certainly didn't.   


Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: duncan on July 03, 2009, 06:06:24 pm
Hi undertow, welcome to UKB.  First post here and plugging a cure...are you related to saul lambert by any chance (http://www.ukc2.com/forums/t.php?t=355031&v=1#x5190576)?  Tell us a little about your climbing.
Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: undertow on July 04, 2009, 01:59:48 am
Hi undertow, welcome to UKB.  First post here and plugging a cure...are you related to saul lambert by any chance (http://www.ukc2.com/forums/t.php?t=355031&v=1#x5190576)?  Tell us a little about your climbing.
Not plugging anything doesn't matter a toss to me if you try it or not,but knowing how painful tennis elbow can be anything is worth a try.No relation to me,it was a German GP in Canada told me about it if that makes any difference,and only registered to offer some advice.By the way what has my climbing got to do with it? Is knowledge dependent only what grade you can lead?
Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: rodma on July 07, 2009, 08:25:20 am
I know that you're all liable to be sceptical,as I was,but a homeopathic cure Ruta Graveolens definitely worked for me on Lateral epicondylitis(Tennis elbow).A GP told me conventional cures were ineffective and that from his own experience it seemed to work,after I tried it I was convinced enough to recommend it to another climber.After he realised how nothing else was working he reluctantly gave it a go and same as me in 2 to 4 weeks it had cleared up.Get 30c strength usually just labelled Ruta over the net,or some branches of Boots,it is only about a fiver so cheaper than a physio and worth trying.I was able to climb overhangs,campus etc. without pain after about 3 weeks.Just take it 3 times a day and no you don't have to believe it will work,I certainly didn't.   




I use ruta cream regularly, I think it's great
Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: travs on July 07, 2009, 09:06:38 am
I went through a 3 year period of acute tennis elbow which can be broken down as follows:

1. Loads of physio by top Sport England physios - no help at all.
2. Cortisone injections on 3 occasions. The first 1 was very good but I was too impatient getting back and damaged it again competing, second 2 waste of time.
3. Operation by top specialist. Complete success but rehabilitated very carefully over 6 month period.

My personal conclusion and this is only from my experience. I think the first cortison injection would have been a success if I had rehabilitated for a little longer and taken it slower. If the 1st injection doesn't work forget it and get to see a specialist.

One thing to bear in mind. My symptoms weren't caused by overuse but by knocking my elbow against the corner of a steel box right on the tendon attachment point so this may need taking into account.
Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: Clart on July 07, 2009, 11:47:34 am
I had an injury and it hurt. Nothing seemed to help until someone told me to rub some crystals together. So I stopped training, rubbed the crystals together 3 times a day and after 2-4 weeks my injury was cured! You'll want Hematite for muscles and Rock Crystal for the scar tissue. Don't take Red Jasper unless you are suffering with cancer (http://www.crystalcavern.com/ (http://www.crystalcavern.com/)).

Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: Fiend on July 07, 2009, 12:16:15 pm
More advice and info here: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9343.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9343.0.html)
Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: GCW on July 07, 2009, 03:38:59 pm

3. Operation by top specialist. Complete success but rehabilitated very carefully over 6 month period.

I have always thought that tennis elbow release works in just this was- it fucking hurts and so it makes you rest.
Either that or it lets out all the evil humors.
Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: Andy W on July 07, 2009, 05:06:47 pm
I've got golfers elbow. Not bad but enough niggle on  90 degree lock and deep locks to take notice and give it some rest and treatment. I've noticed whilst 'testing it' that there is no pain on a straightish arm which has led me to wonder if deadhanging on a board might be an ok excersise to do. So my question is as anyone got any knowledge or understanding on this one? cheers

I've had a go at nearly straight arm deadhangs and can report no twinges in elbow. Locking between large holds on a steep board does give me twinges though.
Title: Re: deadhangs and tendonitis
Post by: a dense loner on July 07, 2009, 07:05:39 pm
use smaller holds ;)
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