UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: joeb on June 09, 2009, 04:10:08 pm
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Since becoming a dad have been using my home board much more frequently than before. Trying to train power endurance I recently checked out doylo's blog spot video where he jumps off and gets back on again asap, i try and down climb but is this foolish as i often have to climb font 6b/6c to get back to the starting holds. Any thoughts ?
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Both are good or at least widely recommended/practised for PE.
The quick repeats of problems with no rest to form a set is recommended in the Self Coached Climber as best structured as a 4x4 i.e 4 sets of 4 boulder problems with 3/4 minute rest between sets potentially graduating to a 6x8 (48problems).
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On boards I've used there is often a jug-fest down climb. This allows for the continuation of circuits whilst not giving you a complete rest that jumping off and starting again would do. It's often also good core training, if your board is steep, and also teaches you to milk as much 'rest' as possible from the easier down climbing.