UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Doylo on October 27, 2003, 05:34:49 pm
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Considering a weekend trip to northumberland, probably vist kyloe, bowden etc... What are the classics to try and their proper grades, not to keen for that northumberland b-grade malarkey!
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i can personally vouch for Y front at english 5c/6a, but i think a G of your calibre aught to be looking at vienna (7a?), poverty (7b?), the crack (8a?) born lippy (7c?), staggered (7c?) etc at bowden.
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Cheers, dunno bout vienna, i can't dyno to save me life! Hitchhikers looks mega on Stick it as does Yorkshireman (though i've heard its living end from a standup). Whats the score on accomodation up there, i've got places to stay in newcastle buts its not that near to the bouldering is it.
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Cheers, dunno bout vienna, i can't dyno to save me life! Hitchhikers looks mega on Stick it as does Yorkshireman (though i've heard its living end from a standup). Whats the score on accomodation up there, i've got places to stay in newcastle buts its not that near to the bouldering is it.
Get yerself upto yorkshire! Qualidy problems
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Cheers, dunno bout vienna, i can't dyno to save me life!
theres no neead to dyno - theres a decent crimp for the left hand, then pop to the break (RH?). I never done it, but nearly did it that way a few years ago back when my limit was about B7 so you should ice it no probs.
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How's it goin young Adam, how was Greece, am keen to go to earl some time soon when its nice and baltic but to be honest i'm finding it hard to drag myself out the school and onto the rock these days. Sad bastard i know, good effort on the hurley innit, i'll give him e9 for that.
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How's it goin young Adam, how was Greece, am keen to go to earl some time soon when its nice and baltic but to be honest i'm finding it hard to drag myself out the school and onto the rock these days. Sad bastard i know, good effort on the hurley innit, i'll give him e9 for that.
Was baltic on Sunday at Ilkley! We both managed a quick ascent of Superset classic V10, and a few others. Winters here! Earl was wet, we went there before hand.
Worth an hour or so bouldering at Ilkley then onto Earl or Caley when you do make it up
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We are of to northumberland this wkend!
Carnt wait. got a good strong team of us going,
I have a huge list of must do's ! Ill never get em all done.
Any spots we must visit ? new areas etc? Let me know ?
Cheers .
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theres no need to dyno - theres a decent crimp for the left hand
I don't know how you people sleep at night.
Use the approved sequence!
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i know you hate limestone but with comments like that you'd really fit in down at the Tor. :wink:
just cos pete kirton missed out a load of holds don't mean i have to!
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When pete did it I bet the footholds weren't good enough to use such small holds.
Learn to jump!!
Bloody crimpin', cheatin', staticin' limestone rats :x
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When pete did it I bet the footholds weren't good enough to use such small holds.
that sounds like an excuse to me. :lol:
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There didn't used to be any footholds!
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I rest my case!!
those crimpin' limestone types must have chipped 'em! :wink:
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Shame that soft sandstone just doesn't last :cry:
In reply to the original post, why not try emailing http://www.northumberlandbouldering.co.uk/ coz they're the local crew who should be able to point you to the right place...
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Considering a weekend trip to northumberland, probably vist kyloe, bowden etc... What are the classics to try and their proper grades, not to keen for that northumberland b-grade malarkey!
Went to Bowden and Kyloe this weekend.
Fuckin mega place!
Didnt have that long but had a play on most of classics
Had brief goes The Crack and Weorking Class. First move on The crack is nails, and Working Class boils down to one move. Poverty and Vienna are absolute classics. As is Childs Play. Couple of good roof problems aswell.
At Kyloe, Jocks and Jordies is brilliant. Sit start to Hitchhickers is good if you like pocket pulling. Northumbrian is annoying. Easy to touch pocket, but to stick it!!! Phew
Did you go in the end Chris? What dya get done?
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Nah couldn't be arsed in the end, went to Earl for the day instead. Spose i'm gonna have to go sometime.
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Adam - 'the Northumbrian' - shurely shome mishtake?
I take it you mean the Yorkshireman?
Did you try the hand switch method: pull up into the layback, then flip your left hand into an inverted position and undercut up to the pocket/edge thang with yer right hand. More involved, but a little less powerful than the standard way.
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Poverty and Vienna are absolute classics.
can you vouch for vienna not being the ridiculous 7c/+ you hear bandied about?
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Adam - 'the Northumbrian' - shurely shome mishtake?
I take it you mean the Yorkshireman?
Did you try the hand switch method: pull up into the layback, then flip your left hand into an inverted position and undercut up to the pocket/edge thang with yer right hand. More involved, but a little less powerful than the standard way.
Aye! Thats what i meant
No didnt try that method. Got a cool method, just need a bit more Umph! Was fooked after 5 hours going solid!
Dog with 10 cocks springs to mind
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Poverty and Vienna are absolute classics.
can you vouch for vienna not being the ridiculous 7c/+ you hear bandied about?
I didnt do it as it was wet. Feet kept slipping. Tried static way, which will go at about V8ish. Jumoing method, dunno, iam shit at dynos, but 7c+ seems a bit overgraded.
Dunno
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did vienna in the pissing rain in about 20 mins. 7c/+ seemed way out to me agree with it being about 7a
however can understand how it may have got that grade once upon a time if there never used to be the footholds?
thought playing rudies was an ok dyno though. has anyone tried that catapault, now that looks fucking awesome.
yorkshireman was abit hardcore for me at the time i went about a year ago, although i would like another go now.
agree with the jocks and geordies being absoloute quality. + dog eat dog at bowden know one mentioned that one yet.
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Listen to you all harping on about Bowden and Kyloe! You know there is more to Northumberland than 2 crags! This is exactly why routes are getting trashed. I know the bouldering guide isn't the best but were is your sense of adventure? The new routes guide covers almost all the venues the bouldering guide does so no excuses for not being able to find them. Try Shaftoe or Rothley, very grit like and lots of problems to test even you 'rock cats'! Hepburn isn't far from Bowden and has some excellent problems there. Ravens crag is even closer to Bowden; right infront of it so you don't even have to break the habit of driving up the Bowden.
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Harping on?? This thread has been dead for two years until you resurrected it. Nothing you have said hasn't been discussed in other threads since then.
Way to go with that finger and that pulse.
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The point is nothing has changed in 2 years. The only venues you see people at are Bowden and Kyloe.
Maybe you'd learn something if you looked at past threads. Lighten up! :roll:
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You need to wise up. :roll: I read that thread when it was first posted, nothing in it has changed since then. Apart from a redundant footnote.
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SA Chris you obviously have an attitude problem or maybe you get pleasure from bullying newbies. Were you bullied at school? Maybe you have a good dose of short man syndrome too.
So what, I resurrected an old thread and added my view. Big deal. That's what this site is all about...remember.
If you look back you'll see that similar topics keep reoccurring anyway. You're not in the schoolyard anymore; try to remember that in future.
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the problem is getting directions to the other crags. I don't want to buy the northumberland bouldering guide, since its out-of date (and crap) when theres a new bouldering guide on its way. And theres no point in buying the trad guide just for directions. When the new guide comes out (when is this btw?) i predict the other northumberland venues wil get a lot more attention.
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SA Chris you obviously have an attitude problem or maybe you get pleasure from bullying newbies. Were you bullied at school? Maybe you have a good dose of short man syndrome too.
So what, I resurrected an old thread and added my view. Big deal. That's what this site is all about...remember.
If you look back you'll see that similar topics keep reoccurring anyway. You're not in the schoolyard anymore; try to remember that in future.
Dry your eyes. You came on with the mouthy attitude problem about how people should be behaving in Northumberland, and where we should and shouldn't be climbing. I retaliated with like for like.
As for short man syndrome, that I doubt. The "don't tell me it's reachy" tagline refers to the fact that I am 6ft 2 and hear that from too many people. Nice try though.
I don't bully anyone, some people just feel they are being bullied.
Stick around, you'll get used to it. It's actually fun here.
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Dom there is an update to the bouldering guide on www.climbonline.co.uk in pdf form from November 2004. As for the new bouldering guide, who knows when it'll be published. There is a new film coming out soon documenting new routes and boulder problems in the county called (funnily enough) 'The County. A preview should be up and running soon on the site www.The-County.com. This has numerous venues other than Bowden and Kyloe where new and hard problems have been climbed. Check out Callahues crag too as there is a draft pdf bouldering guide for there.
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Poverty and Vienna are absolute classics.
can you vouch for vienna not being the ridiculous 7c/+ you hear bandied about?
think the 7c/+ is way out but it seems harder than 7a to me, ive done it all three ways with the crimp then flick method definately being the easiest, 7a+/b?
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Listen to you all harping on about Bowden and Kyloe! You know there is more to Northumberland than 2 crags! This is exactly why routes are getting trashed.
The thing is if you go to an area for the first time you'll want to go to the classic crags won't you? Like the first time i went to the peak i went to stanage and burbage, not churnet and baslow. It was the same when i went to the county for the first time last year, i went to kyloe in and out and bowden doors and back bowden. Maybe next time i go i'll go to some other crags, but i'll probably go and do all the problems i couldn't do at those cras first.
Popular crags are popular for a reason - they're the best crags in the area.
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You have a point Stubbs but I think the only reason they are as popular as they are is because they are right next to the road. Like the popular end at Stanage. If Bowden were swapped for Callahues or The Wanneys it would be just as busy (not that I'm knocking the quality of either of these crags). I wonder if it boils down to convenience and laziness in a lot of cases. I have visited Bowden once this year because there are so many quality problems elsewhere. There was a thought when the bouldering guide came out that it would spread the traffic over the county. If anything it's just intensified at the Bowden and Kyloe group. Point taken though.
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There was a thought when the bouldering guide came out that it would spread the traffic over the county. If anything it's just intensified at the Bowden and Kyloe group. Point taken though.
problem is with that bouldering guide it is so shit that you have to stick to crags you already know well to be able to work out where anything is from the guide! So yeah it will have made it worse!
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the only reason they are as popular as they are is because they are right next to the road. Like the popular end at Stanage.
Rubbish. The popular end is so because it has the best concentration of mid-grade gritstone climbing in the world.
Whilst I'm here, I reckon Vienna as a dyno is worth 7c. Its certainly harder than any of the popular peak dynos.
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i don't think in its current state (i.e. footscoops worn through the bottom now) it would quite be 7c - i was excruciatingly close to it a year or so ago and it was feeling like 7b or maybe 7b+. Not as hard as hurricane for example, which i also havent done but been excruciatingly close to..... :cry:
in its state as about 6 years ago (footscoops very good) i was excruciatingly close to it static and at the time i'd have been going well if i did a 7a.
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Yeah well Dave, I find it harder than hurricane.
The crux on Vienna isn't making the distance, or hitting the hold right, you can do both of those and still not do it. Wierd, I think its cos of the sand in the break, and the fact you can't get up to clean it.
Actually the same is true of hurricane, you can catch the hold right and then just swing off. For both, sadly, the grade is contained in actually doing it, though you are massive so they should feel easier anyway...
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I'm with monkey on this one, there's plenty of good crags in the county that just don't get the attention they deserve. I think it shouldn't be too long now till we get a proper bouldering guide for the county with glossy photos and everything. maybe if i get my really tight climbing pants they'll let me in one.
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I'm psyched to go anywhere I haven't seen a picture of Karin Magog at. Can you help?
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Yeah well Dave, I find it harder than hurricane.
The crux on Vienna isn't making the distance, or hitting the hold right, you can do both of those and still not do it.
tell me a-fucking-bout it.
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10003/vienna_almost.jpg)
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has someone photoshopped a horses' arse on that? vienna just goes from this to that. when i tried it years ago, like i've pointed out, with a broken rib off cowboy's bird, it was at the very most 7a. the only reason i din't do it was cos of this little thing called pain. tho pete kirton knows what he's on about so it was obvious things change.
with regard to people who tell us there's more to the crags in the county than the obvious, there isn't really is there? please don't try telling me that shaftoe's good...
like johnny say's the popular end is not a misnomer for no reason
with regards to johnny, if you think vienna's harder than hurricane get a fucking grip
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has someone photoshopped a horses' arse on that?
my thoughts entirely :lol:
not that I can talk.
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The current bouldering guide is totally useless as far as selling the virtues of different venues goes. No stars, very few (uncaptioned) photos, uninspiring descriptions, poor diagrams and wildly inaccurate grading. You can't blame visitors for sticking to what they know. I for one don't fancy making the long trek up to the county then wasting a day at a mystery crag which might turn out to be pants.
Come on then all you Northumberland types, give us some inspiring pictures of these other great venues. Make us want to go to these places.
I once went to Rothley, which was ok for a day but was nowhere near as good as the better known venues. It certainly had no super classics. I wouldn't go back unless I intended to do a bit of roped climbing. I have heard very mixed reports about Shaftoe, but mostly quite negative. Basically both these crags are gritstone and the Peak/Yorkshire has far superior grit which is much closer to home. Basically I would only visit the county for the sandstone areas. I would love to check out some new sandstone venues if I had seen pics and knew there was at least one classic to make it worthwhile.
How about someone giving us a top ten of county problems outside the big two and a bunch of photos??
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I have some photo's of Doveholes which I could post if you want :?:
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i've been to all the classic northuberland venues over the years.but more recentley been to shaftoe and rothley.although the've got good bits some parts of shaftoe are complete shite.you don't want to drive 150+ miles to climb onthe equivilant of white edge.
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How about someone giving us a top ten of county problems outside the big two and a bunch of photos??
Definitely be much appreciated by me too. I have done my fair share of tramping around the more esoteric venues and frankly come to the conclusion that I was largely wasting my time e.g. the only really worthwhile stuff I have found in umpteen wanderings around Rothley is the Yorkshire 8a and the Arete Land section; Shaftoe's supposed 300+ problems boil down to a handful of problems on the Font Boulder, The Neb Roof, The Classic Arete area and a load of filthy, friable choss. Please prove me wrong... please.
If there are lots of great problems and areas I have missed... well I plead in mitigation that the guide is an absolute joke. Complex areas are represented by a wiggly line and descriptions comprising "climb to the left of the previous problem" (which is probably described as to the "right of the next problem"!). Admittedly some sections are now almost usable in conjunction with the new routes guide's phototopo's but that's no help to the occassional boulderer.
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The guide was (apparantly) only produced to keep Rockfax from getting there first.
It is hands down the shittest bouldering guide ever produced.
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Sorry I don't yet know how you quote people properly (the blue dotty thing) :oops:
'Rubbish. The popular end is so because it has the best concentration of mid-grade gritstone climbing in the world.'
But would it be so popular if you had a 15-30 minute walk in rather than a short trot from the car?
'The crux on Vienna isn't making the distance, or hitting the hold right, you can do both of those and still not do it. Weird, I think its cos of the sand in the break.'
I am afraid to say it is how you hit the break. I've done Vienna umpteen times over the years and I've never experienced the break being sandy, maybe damp but not sandy. .
Dave, if you aim about a hands width to the left of the main chalk mark you'll find it slightly better.
'I'm psyched to go anywhere I haven't seen a picture of Karin Magog at. Can you help?'
That's a real tricky question! I think she's got just about every crag covered!
'with regard to people who tell us there's more to the crags in the county than the obvious, there isn't really is there?'
See Moo's comment. He knows the score. Although, can a man wearing tight pants really be trusted!? :lol:
Bonjoy check out the preview page on www.the-county.com there might be something on there to inspire you. Let me know how you get on.
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Bubba is right. The guide was produced in a rush to beat Rockfax. I'm pretty sure lessons have been learned and if the new routes guide is anything to go by the new bouldering guide will be great.
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There's nothing really inspiring on that preview page to bo honest., just some very small stills, but i'm sure the video will be excellent.
Also there is a big differnece between a crag that has one or two classic hard problems that look good in a video and a crag it is worth leaving yorkshire or the peak to vist.
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Also there is a big differnece between a crag that has one or two classic hard problems that look good in a video and a crag it is worth leaving yorkshire or the peak to vist.
aye, for a full day's entertainment - a good steady warm-up on old favourites before working a few "projects" - I generally have go to Kyloe or the Bowdens (or head south to the Yorkshire grit). Most of the rest of the Northumbrian (and more esoteric NE England venues) do seem best suited to those trips where you only fancy a half-session (perhaps focussed on one particular problem) - a quick whittle before the rain hits and you escape to the wall / cinema / pub etc.
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Most of the rest of the Northumbrian (and more esoteric NE England venues) do seem best suited to those trips where you only fancy a half-session (perhaps focussed on one particular problem)....
Not sure if Goldsbrough Carr counts as esoteric NE, but i'd happily travel up there from Sheff for a full day.
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goldsborough is well worth the visit although I think some of the grades are a bit off.
Beths trav is a quality problem as well as many of the roof problems put up my cummins and dunning.
Theres some narly aretes at the approach end of the crag but many have bad landings. Stay away from this place when its at all windy. (PS - whoever it was using blue and pink chalk to mark up problems stay away full stop)
Like someone said above shaftoe boils down to a couple of decent problems, I wouldnt waste a trip up from sheffield on them, explore further along kyloe in. Try some of the things at kyloe out. Learn to fly for dyno lovers.
Vienna - Is this not a good candidate for some of that stabiliser compoun? it seems to change every time i visit?
Seem to remember the beta being to stack your fingers on RH side of the crimp, bring right toe in on smear and pop with either hand. ( The sand in the break is a pain, towel seems to do the trick though ).
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I once went to Kyloe out, did a few probs and a bit of soloing, nice crag all in all.
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Those probs on the preview page look good, particularly the ones at Hepburn. Shame they are so tiny. Has no-one got the originals?
I can't remember the name of the place now, but there was some photos of it in a mag last year or 2004, in the Northumberland Highballs article, had very grey rock, that looked great. Any ideas where that might be?
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Callerhues? Have you got the Northumberland routes guide? There are loads of places in there with good highballing stuff that get no mention in the bouldering guide.
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Bonjoy the only other photo I can find of the Hepburn problem (The Governor) is in the news section on www.climbonline.co.uk/news.htm
(http://www.climbonline.co.uk/photogallery/Northumberland/Hepburn/images/Andy-Cowley-1.jpg)
Yeah SA Chris is right, some highballs here. Crouching the Mahogany is fantastic. There is a pdf bouldering guide at the bottom of this page:
http://www.climbonline.co.uk/callerhues.htm
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That's the place, infact Crouching th Mahogany was the prob I have seen pics of which looked amazing.
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Didn't some local waddage (Bob Smith) once say that "all you need to climb at Callerhues is toilet paper"? Lots of big highballs with incredibly rounded topouts.
Agree that Goldsborough has some pretty damn fine problems, though for the low grade punter the goodness is pretty much limited to the Fiddler buttress (Jumping Jack Flash etc) and that short section from Enigma to Hubris. The Thornbird buttress is largely vegetated soloing territory these days (unless you have ambitions on supposed V10 roof at the LHS). I do keep meaning to return for a go at the Scoop (V5?) on the Fiddler buttress and Fiddler's Wall (V6/7?) though as I couldn't figure them out at all last time I visited. May have to wait a while though - it always seems to be bloody freezing there!
Not an esoteric venue by the standards of the NE guide though (I think it gets a 5* - "highest possible importance rating" along with Slipstones etc). I was thinking more along the lines of Crag Willas, Cleaden, Marsden, Kepier etc....
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I thought it might be Crouching you had in mind, looks ace.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=30647
BoulevardLooks sweet as well.
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Ive always meant to try the problem that goes about 2 metres left of childs play at bowden, it looks really thin and no sign of wear and tear to the best of my knowledge.
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Never been myself, but have been told Callerhues is excellent.
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It would seem that what puts most people of about northumberland is that they have to travel to get there. I guess if you aren't motivated to check out new aeas, rather than trodding over old ground again and again, there's not much to be said that can motivate you to make the journey.
Check out
www.themoves.co.uk
there's some good pictures on there might help provide a little inspiration i hope. :)
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i've climbed at callerhues years ago when i did routes and remember ending up leading routes of a height and grade i would normally solo,due to the top outs.good place though.