UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: MorganW on May 10, 2009, 06:12:24 pm
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Anybody thinking of going to this year's Roc Trip?
Looks like it's back in Millau so fairly handy to get to:
http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/news/events-0/2009/05/02/petzl-roctrip-090626 (http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/news/events-0/2009/05/02/petzl-roctrip-090626)
I'm not sure if that means Tarn or Jonte, but either have quality climbing i'm told. I've been meaning to get out there so this might be the motivation i need. UKC article here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1556 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1556)
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I wasn't planning on going, but it actually looks quite good. The petzl site shows that they're going to equip a new sector in the Gorges de la Jonte - about 2km from the village of Le Rozier, which is about 25mins drive from Millau.
The naturalgames.fr website has some more details. Although I wouldn't recommend looking at the English version as it contains the most eye-wateringly bad translation I've ever seen.
Looks like the pros have a single "Infinity Lane" route to try - something like 120m to 140m long, with two belayers and at least 8c.
The amateur contest is 60 new single-pitch routes, each entrant gets a topo and off they go. There's also two multipitch routes to do (if you want to get some sort of CAF certificate?) and a easier version of the pros route: a 120m single pitch F6a pitch.
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Although thinking about it, that side of the valley faces full, unshaded, roasting hot, crispy fried climber south... and I have sensitive skin, unsuited to the south of France in June...
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wow...a 120m pitch sounds awesome, though i would probably have to opt for the 6a version.
I had heard that there are usually good shade options to be had in the gorges there....ie west and east facing.
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That's true of the equipped sectors in the Tarn - they're mostly located low down in a part of the gorge that runs north-south, on the west bank, so they start to get complete shade in the afternoon.
But the Preztel team have chosen the Gorges du Jonte. This runs east-west, with the crag being at the top. It catches the sun, as you might be able to see if this picture works:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2106/1732232130_c6afb279a2.jpg)
It's a great location for summer climbing, if you can choose where you go.