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the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: nik at work on May 02, 2009, 10:01:08 pm
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I'm a little confused about Aeon, Aeons, Aeon reverse.
So can anyone confirm the following:
Aeon with the undercut - 7C
Aeon (original) without the undercut - 8A
Aeon reverse (using the undercut?) - 7C
Aeons, Aeon linked to Aeon reverse - 8A+ (originally 8B?) Can you use the undercut on this? Or can you only use the undercut for the reverse bit? Or the undercut is out? Or is it 8B if you don't use the undercut in either direction? Or, or or????
Yes, yes I know this is all geeky saddness but thoughts, opinions and definitive knowledge will be gratefully received...
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The undercut is out and you can't rest in the crack.
Stop whining and DO IT!!
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I think Aeon reverse using the undercut is about 7C+ Nic as it has the much trickier finish up the hardcore crack on the left :o
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A-ha, cheers Richie. Hadn't even considered the finish to Aeon reverse.
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Good old Aeon crack eh Ricardo ;)
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It's harder than the traverse either way! :spank:
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Well it was dripping wet when we arrived today, ho-hum. Managed to dry of enough holds for Aeon, including comedy chalk 'eyebrows' for all the holds to soak up the water running down the face. It sort of worked and it was all brushed clean before we left.
Still interested in what is and isn't allowed for Aeons.
I have to say the crack on the left didn't look that bad Richie, mind you it was running with water so I didn't actually try to climb it...
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It doesn't look that bad...
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Still interested in what is and isn't allowed for Aeons.
I have to say the crack on the left didn't look that bad Richie, mind you it was running with water so I didn't actually try to climb it...
My knowledge: Gaskins' original topo described Aeon as only using holds above the lip with no feet in the holes at the back (which I think could be footlocked as I recall???). My understanding was that rather than being "the concept" it was rather a statement of what Gaskins did given that everything under the lip always used to be piss wet through. This was always the case when I used to go up there so it didn't seem such a stupid compromise to me, I guess maybe times are drier now/we were making winter visits whereas in spring/summer it will have dried/tree felling may have exposed it more. There is also the consideration that the holds above the lip are lovely and that G must have used it for training so didn't want anything too rank/easy!
I have repeated Aeon and Aeon reverse using only holds above the lip. I felt that the traverse section crux was significantly harder going L-R (Aeon) rather than (R-L) as all the holds are less helpful in that direction. My beta was to get the two finger crozzle in my right, get a very wide deep egyptian (small flake out right) and drop into the LH pinch, crux. Now flip the egyptian and slap out to the good sidepull, slopey intermediate on the way (I cleaned, G didn't use). I felt 7c+ was fair like this, I can see why G gave it 8a as I've seen a pic of him mid crux and he's totally front on (i.e. no technique, just finger strength!). Reverse I felt 7c/+, but mainly because of the finishing crack!
I have never done or tried Aeon with the undercut so can't compare.
Aeons - Originally did Aeon using only holds above lip + no feet in holes to crack on right, NO REST (!) and straight into Aeon reverse (same rules as Aeon) finishing up crack on the left without using the big jug on the left. The crack isn't too bad if you use this hold, if you don't its nails.
The hardest problem here is Aeon Prow. Despite traversing through them on Aeon, I could never actually pull onto this, even though its the same holds. Neither could I do either of the moves. Which was depressing when it got something daft like V8 on Gaskins' topo!
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Nice one Nigel, cheers for clearing that up. I agree about Aeon Prow - looks mad hard to me.
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What's Aeon prow? I presume it's different to Aeon Dyno because even I was getting close on Aeon Dyno...
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Aeon prow starts sitting on literally the micro prow going up the little slopey edges. Crouch came close to flashing this and got it a couple of goes later. I was slightly dismayed by that greasy punter as doing pullons and not completing the problem is usually my forte. Needless to say, several months of inactivity meant I failed to pull on and he crushed. I'm just jealous :'(
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It was hard but not as hard as Texas hold 'em.. my lifetime nemesis :'(