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the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: abarro81 on April 25, 2009, 06:26:10 pm

Title: Problem R of undercut-sloper at the tor
Post by: abarro81 on April 25, 2009, 06:26:10 pm

In preparation for my glorious return to raven tor, armed with 2 weeks worth of prime european onsighting stamina to help me in no way, shape or form on 2 move boulder problems... The eliminate just right of undercut-sloper-jug, no. 3 in Ru's guide: Do you have to go all the way from the crozzly sidepull straight to the jug? I remember looking at this last time I was there and deciding it was an inconceivably long way, at least a million grades harder than undercut-sloper and thus I might be misunderstanding the description. Any knowledge? Are you in fact allowed to go to the crimp/sloper before the jug? Or just time to get 'dem jumping shoes on?

Title: Re: Problem R of undercut-sloper at the tor
Post by: dave on April 25, 2009, 07:57:05 pm

I can't remember if you can go to that diagonal crimp or not. Harris will know.

Title: Re: Problem R of undercut-sloper at the tor
Post by: Andy Harris on April 26, 2009, 03:31:18 pm

MATCH BREAK
lh- U'CUt
RH- CROZZLY THING
lh- DIAGONAL CRIMP
rh- SLOPER
RH- JUG
7B MAYBE 7B+

YOU CAN USE THE NOW SADLY CHIPPED LITTLE POCKET INSTEAD OF THE U'CUT WHICH IS A MIGHT TRICKIER

MALC WAS THE 1ST PERSON TO DO THIS CROZZLY PROBLEM AND HE MAY HAVE GONE DIRECT TO THE JUG BUT MY MEMORY FAILS ME

Title: Re: Problem R of undercut-sloper at the tor
Post by: dave on April 26, 2009, 03:47:11 pm

has the little 'un eaten your caps lock key by any chance?

Title: Re: Problem R of undercut-sloper at the tor
Post by: abarro81 on April 26, 2009, 06:06:26 pm

Cheers for the knowledge

Title: Re: Problem R of undercut-sloper at the tor
Post by: Andy Harris on April 26, 2009, 07:26:31 pm

i wish i could say i was tyrying to be creative but alas I' was just too lazy to start again once i'd written it.

whilst the unnamed one isn't up to eating keys yet i did catch her crimping in her moses basket. Good girl.

Title: Re: Problem R of undercut-sloper at the tor
Post by: Dolly on April 27, 2009, 09:24:21 am

Quote

i did catch her crimping in her moses basket

open handed or thumb on Andy ?

Congratulations BTW  ;D

Title: Re: Problem R of undercut-sloper at the tor
Post by: Andy Harris on April 27, 2009, 11:45:09 am

let's just say Fred Nicole would have struggled to get his thumb that far over his forefinger ;D