UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: RockAngel on April 13, 2009, 01:56:54 am

Title: new
Post by: RockAngel on April 13, 2009, 01:56:54 am
hello all,
I seem to be taking up bouldering at the moment as all of my climbing buddies have dropped off the earth. I'm not horrible so I don't know why. I still want to be trying to be keeping fit and improving my skills. Anyway, some help on some things would be good.
1). I live in Cheshire (near Alderley edge) and was wondering where some good beginner problems are that aren't to far away? (have a car so can get to places).
2). What are the grades and what do they mean? Can they be compared to climbing grades?
3). What equipment do I need apart from rock shoes and chalk? I dont have a bouldering mat yet as they are quite expensive. 

I make good cakes.

RockAngel
Title: Re: new
Post by: slackline on April 13, 2009, 08:18:55 am
hello all,
I seem to be taking up bouldering at the moment as all of my climbing buddies have dropped off the earth. I'm not horrible so I don't know why. I still want to be trying to be keeping fit and improving my skills. Anyway, some help on some things would be good.
1). I live in Cheshire (near Alderley edge) and was wondering where some good beginner problems are that aren't to far away? (have a car so can get to places).

Not local, so don't have any local insight, but you're within an hours drive of the Peak District and a little further will get you to North Wales (Snowdonia/Llyn).  Check out the crag database at UKC for fairly comprehensive

2). What are the grades and what do they mean? Can they be compared to climbing grades?

Bouldering grades (as with route grades) give an indication of the overall difficulty of a problem.  Some will go on about V numbers, but true enlightenment comes from the Font grading system.  More info at the font of all disinformation (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Climbing_grades).

3). What equipment do I need apart from rock shoes and chalk? I dont have a bouldering mat yet as they are quite expensive.  

Nothing really.  A pad can help even out uneven landings and make the act of falling less painful, but isn't essential (although you'll feel more secure when climbing above one.  A tootbrush (possibly on a stick) to brush dirt of holds can be handy too.

Perhaps one essential thing though is a small cloth or rag to clean your shoes when you are setting off ona problem as it will mean the holds stay cleaner, your feet won't slip and it won't trash the rock in the long term.

Having friends to go out with can be good too as you have a laugh, spot (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spotting_(climbing)) each other and generally rip the piss out of encourage each other.

Get out and have some fun and enjoy it.  Watch others climb and learn from their technique (or not!) and don't be afraid to talk to people, 99% of people are friendly.
Title: Re: new
Post by: Nibile on April 13, 2009, 09:29:34 am
not a local, but...
welcome!
if you come to italy send me a pm and come with a good selection of home made cakes, i'll provide the rest, climbing wise.
ciao.
Title: Re: new
Post by: dave k on April 13, 2009, 01:04:46 pm
The Roaches has lots of bouldering- try the Spring Boulders for plenty of lower grade problems (although the ground can be a bit sodden)
Newstones is a lovely little venue that is mainly bouldering with generally decent landings and plenty of lower grade problems.

Title: Re: new
Post by: Krank on April 13, 2009, 03:16:49 pm
i will second daves shout for the Newstones, its a crackin venue with some sweet lower grade problems.
Title: Re: new
Post by: JohnM on April 13, 2009, 07:29:45 pm
Your nearest crag with a selection of nice easy problems is probably Frodsham.  However the problems tend to be quite high so its good to go along with someone for spotting duties.
Title: Re: new
Post by: Will Hunt on April 13, 2009, 11:57:24 pm
You're in luck. The new Cheshire Sandstone Guide is due for release soon  :)

Bouldering isn't as evil as a lot of dedicated trad climbers think. A healthy balance of the two is great fun.
Title: Re: new
Post by: Monolith on April 14, 2009, 09:28:33 am
Rock Angel. You're not a million miles from a  lot of us who climb on Cheshire sandstone. Drop a pm here if you want to meet some time. I appreciate meeting strange men off internet forums isn't wise but I don't know how else to verify my/other identities.
Title: Re: new
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 14, 2009, 10:21:31 am
DON'T DO IT!!!! ;)
Title: Re: new
Post by: Monolith on April 14, 2009, 10:58:27 am
Rock Angel. It's very simple...

It's him

(http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/6417/seanbeansharpe.jpg) (http://img245.imageshack.us/my.php?image=seanbeansharpe.jpg)


Or me

(http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/301/calendarhunk.jpg) (http://img16.imageshack.us/my.php?image=calendarhunk.jpg)


Collectively, the North West Lot

(http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/8290/hunklabareboys.jpg) (http://img16.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hunklabareboys.jpg)


Or collectively, Jasper's lot

(http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/1778/nerdsn.jpg) (http://img22.imageshack.us/my.php?image=nerdsn.jpg)





Barring a propensity for the latter, I'll see you at Frodsham.
Title: Re: new
Post by: Doylo on April 14, 2009, 11:47:04 am
Rock Angel meet Monolith:

(http://www.ffzh.ch/download/event_spalte/168_child_catcher_5.jpg)
Title: Re: new
Post by: andy_e on April 14, 2009, 11:49:04 am
 :lol:
Title: Re: new
Post by: Richie Crouch on April 14, 2009, 11:59:23 am
I would say this bore a closer resemblance to the infamous mr monolith:

(http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2008/03_01/trampDM0503_468x579.jpg)

Title: Re: new
Post by: Doylo on April 14, 2009, 12:00:56 pm
no thats my dad, cheeky bugger
Title: Re: new
Post by: Mr Cat on April 14, 2009, 02:20:06 pm
no thats my dad, cheeky bugger

hello son - it's been a long time since we've spoke... :)
Title: Re: new
Post by: Monolith on April 14, 2009, 02:46:47 pm
Rock Angel, meet Doylo

(http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/8805/ronb.jpg) (http://img4.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ronb.jpg)


and meet Richie Crouch

(http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/9233/4940550.jpg) (http://img222.imageshack.us/my.php?image=4940550.jpg)


So many crags so near to you, so many hunks!
Title: Re: new
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 14, 2009, 02:55:58 pm
The Sean Bean comparison's starting to look ok........
Title: Re: new
Post by: Will Hunt on April 14, 2009, 03:20:13 pm
(http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/9233/4940550.jpg) (http://img222.imageshack.us/my.php?image=4940550.jpg)

Crouch/Chuckle/Ghandi?
Title: Re: new
Post by: nicci on April 14, 2009, 04:46:34 pm
RockAngel, I'm based in the NW (part time anyway) and have been dragged into the world of bouldering! Also like to think I'm a little less intimidating than these strange guys!
I have a car also send me a message if you wanna get out any time, I tend to try and avoid grit/sandstone is possible though!
Title: Re: new
Post by: RockAngel on April 14, 2009, 09:14:16 pm
I've just spat a mouthful of tea all over my keyboard and screen!!!
Title: Re: new
Post by: RockAngel on April 14, 2009, 09:22:40 pm
Dave K and krank: where is spring boulders and Newstones? either a grid ref or link to somewhere would be useful.
How do you send someone a message on here?
Title: Re: new
Post by: Will Hunt on April 14, 2009, 09:26:27 pm
They're both within the vicinity of the Roaches (or at least Newstones is) which is on the road between Buxton and Leek in the Peak.

Check out this link for crag info but for gods sake steer clear of the forums!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/map/ (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/map/)
Title: Re: new
Post by: RockAngel on April 14, 2009, 09:34:53 pm
Thanks Will,
its too late about the forums on UKC. :guilty:
RockAngel
Title: Re: new
Post by: fatneck on April 14, 2009, 10:05:17 pm
Take no notice of these nutters RA. There's a lot of quality bouldering to be had and the North West/Liverpool scene is booming at the moment. You're well placed for Frodsham, Helsby and Pex Hill. North Wales is practically on your doorstep and, as already mentioned, you're not too far from most Peak venues. In fact you're spoilt for choice (as are all NW based climbers) in that Yorkshire, Lake District, Lancashire, Peak and Yorkshire are all pretty much the same distance away so that whatever the weather, you can nearly always get out! Feel free to contact myself for more info. I can also recommend JohnM as a reliable man for info. As for Richie Crouch and Monolith, my advice would be to stay well away  ;)

As for contacting people, a Personal Message can be sent by finding the person you wish to message in the members (http://"http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?action=mlist") section, clicking on their name and then using the "Send this person a personal message" option.

Good luck!

Title: Re: new
Post by: a dense loner on April 14, 2009, 10:23:50 pm
i bet monoliths pulse is going through the roof now
Title: Re: new
Post by: Monolith on April 14, 2009, 10:37:17 pm
Rock Angel, I'm sorry for that potentially intimidating banter. You're welcome to head out with us lot anytime. Oh and if a man introduces himself to you as a dense loner,  run. ;)

Actually, cancel that wink, do run.

Yours,

Rock Hunk.
Title: Re: new
Post by: Richie Crouch on April 14, 2009, 10:39:10 pm
I find the thought of the not so innocent and unassuming Fatneck warning people away from me and my esteemed friend Mr Mills, most amusing!  :lol:
Title: Re: new
Post by: Monolith on April 14, 2009, 10:47:10 pm
scene is booming at the moment. 

Indeed Si, I hear you're quite the player on the Liverpool fishing scene these days ;)
Title: Re: new
Post by: RockAngel on April 14, 2009, 11:00:44 pm
was that banter? Ive heard worse though Im not telling any of you lot on here. It looked more like people taking the mickey of themselves. ;D
Title: Re: new
Post by: Monolith on April 14, 2009, 11:09:41 pm
It was don't worry! Plans are afoot for a sole thread dedicated to mr dense loner so things like this won't need to confuse you further. Hope you manage to get somewhere good soon.
Title: Re: new
Post by: slackline on April 15, 2009, 07:18:33 am

As for contacting people, a Personal Message can be sent by finding the person you wish to message in the members (http://"http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?action=mlist") section, clicking on their name and then using the "Send this person a personal message" option.



Or you can save yourself the hassle and click on the little speech bubble icon underneath people's avatars/usernames  ;)
Title: Re: new
Post by: meatball on April 15, 2009, 12:31:09 pm
i will be heading to pex tonight with a well knowlegeable local (been climbing round here for, well, years). Pisa wall has some great eliminate lines to go at and as for lady jane wall, i've become hooked on it recently. If you happen to see this reply defore hand, i'll be there around 6/7ish (tallish bloke with shaved hair) and staying for a wee lamplight session on lady jane wall and would be happy to point out the blokes to stay away from some decent problems out
Title: Re: new
Post by: RockAngel on April 15, 2009, 05:25:46 pm
have just decided that i am a scaredy cat. Have looked at frodshum and pexhill in the book and there is virtually nothing I think i could do. They are all to high for me with getting scared. need some low boulders and easy problems. really novice stuff to try first. If they exist. :-[
Title: Re: new
Post by: LucyB on April 15, 2009, 05:36:30 pm
Come over to the Peak  :hug:
Title: Re: new
Post by: RockAngel on April 15, 2009, 06:11:52 pm
Rock Angel. It's very simple...

It's him

(http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/6417/seanbeansharpe.jpg) (http://img245.imageshack.us/my.php?image=seanbeansharpe.jpg)

Not really into Sean Bean. Vin diesel is much better!!
Or me

(http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/301/calendarhunk.jpg) (http://img16.imageshack.us/my.php?image=calendarhunk.jpg)
The baby looks scared!!!

Collectively, the North West Lot

(http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/8290/hunklabareboys.jpg) (http://img16.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hunklabareboys.jpg)
The one in the middle has bigger boobs than me.

Or collectively, Jasper's lot

(http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/1778/nerdsn.jpg) (http://img22.imageshack.us/my.php?image=nerdsn.jpg)

Why is there a picture of two lads in the same bed looking at pr0n on a laptop with one of them pulling there own nipples?



Barring a propensity for the latter, I'll see you at Frodsham.

Title: Re: new
Post by: Monolith on April 15, 2009, 06:30:19 pm
I've misrepresented myself sorry Rock Angel. I just typed in 'hunk' into google and those were the images thrown at me. For what it's worth, I don't believe one of those losers to be what I'd term a hunk.

Jokes aside, you'd be fine at Pex Hill on the eliminate wall as meatball suggests.

Happy hunking!
Title: Re: new
Post by: nicci on April 15, 2009, 08:56:58 pm
Have looked at...pexhill in the book and there is virtually nothing I think i could do. They are all to high for me with getting scared. need some low boulders and easy problems.

You'll be fine at Pex, if you go with one of these 'hunks' to spot you and a mat  ;)

Lady Jane Wall is quite scary but there's a lot of problems with crux's near the bottom (i'm sure no one will shout if you don't top them out) and there's a few traverses that are really nice!! -> great place to improve footwork and finger strength!

Title: Re: new
Post by: Richie Crouch on April 15, 2009, 09:47:14 pm
People choosing not to top out said lines will find the padding swiftly removed before they can plan any downwards escape  :whistle: ;)
Title: Re: new
Post by: Will Hunt on April 15, 2009, 10:42:43 pm
If you're not happy topping out at first then just go as high as you feel you want to then jump off or more sensibly climb down. I've fallen nearly the full length of Pisa Wall in control and hit my small pad and been fine with no spotters.
Title: Re: new
Post by: webbo on April 16, 2009, 08:51:30 am
have just decided that i am a scaredy cat.
so would i be if a bald tall bloke with a fancy for a female member of the landed gentry was wanting to meet me to do something with a torch down some pit of a quarry in merseyside.
Title: Re: new
Post by: meatball on April 16, 2009, 02:41:27 pm
 :lol:

All inocent mate! my interests lay with monobloc at the moment
Title: Re: new
Post by: Will Hunt on April 16, 2009, 03:40:42 pm
How was it last night? Was it not a bit minging due to the rain in the morning?
Title: Re: new
Post by: RockAngel on April 16, 2009, 11:20:01 pm
People choosing not to top out said lines will find the padding swiftly removed before they can plan any downwards escape  :whistle: ;)



That's just plain mean.
Title: Re: new
Post by: Richie Crouch on April 16, 2009, 11:33:12 pm
I think the pex hill ethics commitee of Popp, Simm, Chadders, Porkie and Farley will have to be consulted as to the legitimacy of any claimed ascents that finish prematurely at a random break  :rtfm:
Title: Re: new
Post by: Will Hunt on April 17, 2009, 12:07:29 am
I dunno, Rich. Can you jump of from the break on Black Magic? Don't worry about him, RA. He's just upset because everyone says he is taller than he is strong (which is damn true!) Climb how you like but don't base your 8a.nu scorecard on it  :)
Title: Re: new
Post by: Richie Crouch on April 17, 2009, 08:07:21 am
Now then Hunt... your ascent of Breakaway finishing at the niche must surely be called into question and put before the board  :spank:  ;)
Title: Re: new
Post by: andy_e on April 17, 2009, 01:01:36 pm
Go as high as you feel and then jump off? In that case I flashed monoblock. And you can't call Crouch weak either!
Title: Re: new
Post by: nicci on April 17, 2009, 04:09:37 pm
Go as high as you feel and then jump off? In that case I flashed monoblock. And you can't call Crouch weak either!

Yeah but by Crouch's standards it also means you've done nothing at Pex  :P
Title: Re: new
Post by: Will Hunt on April 17, 2009, 04:15:56 pm
He wouldn't even go up Algripper  ::)

He did give me a ride home though which was nice. I don't believe we've met, Nicci, but you're Leeds and Liverpool. Giz a shout if you're after a climb sometime.
Title: Re: new
Post by: Monolith on April 17, 2009, 09:22:33 pm
Would you trust a hunk that looks like this!?

(http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/4921/n62013006432407066029.jpg) (http://img164.imageshack.us/my.php?image=n62013006432407066029.jpg)



Title: Re: new
Post by: fatneck on April 17, 2009, 10:20:56 pm
What a thoroughly handsome chap, a/s/l?  :whistle:
Title: Re: new
Post by: BenF on April 19, 2009, 10:49:52 am
I think the pex hill ethics commitee of Popp, Simm, Chadders, Porkie and Farley will have to be consulted as to the legitimacy of any claimed ascents that finish prematurely at a random break  :rtfm:

You knows it Crouch.
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