UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Adam Lincoln on March 30, 2009, 07:40:32 pm
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Another crag that keeps on giving.
This afternoon Sean Gelder continued his crabbing of the crag (after his repeat of Nuclear Transplant, V12 earlier this month) with a new addition.
He has called it Nuclear Waste Of Time, and given it a tentative grade of V12. He thinks it possibly could be hard for the grade.
It climbs Art Of Self Destruction, V11, then down climbs the ramp and joins Cloning technology, V11.
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The R under cut on AOSD was wet so I had to pull on with a rag in my hand and the R crimp on AOSD was getting wet so I had to sort it just before pulling on.
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c3po = Dirt?
Shit I'm slow.
Effort though.
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when you say these problems climb aosd then traverse then down etc what do you mean? you go to the finishing jug on aosd? i'm confused by these new school probs and personally think they're only done for 8a accounts. for instance in my own not very humble opinion if you do press right and press left i have no intention of giving you 2 8a ascents, is this wrong?
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(http://www.uksport.gov.uk/assets/Image/newsArchive/Pier_C_main.jpg)
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for instance in my own not very humble opinion if you do press right and press left i have no intention of giving you 2 8a ascents, is this wrong?
Yes. Completely. One is a grade harder and despite sharing two moves almost completely different.
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Actually Dob, Dense is right. One is 7C+ and the other 8A+ so you get no 8A ticks. I'm sure that's what he meant.........
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when you say these problems climb aosd then traverse then down etc what do you mean? you go to the finishing jug on aosd? i'm confused by these new school probs and personally think they're only done for 8a accounts. for instance in my own not very humble opinion if you do press right and press left i have no intention of giving you 2 8a ascents, is this wrong?
It goes to the top of AOSD, not just to the crimps, then reverses the ramp. Its basically a much harder start to cloning technology. I don't get excited about this type of thing but some people like the challenge. It certainly won't be for a 8a.nu account. he doesn't update one.
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If you're a Woodwell devotee, which I know Sean is, then this is an obvious link. I always wanted to do it, but fell at the first hurdle because it took me 8 years to do Art of....! I have to say I'm surprised that it hasn't been done before by Gaskins, Chapman, Vickers, Parry, or Clement, but I'm fairly sure it hasn't. Great effort Dirt!
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What grade would you have suggested for this Nige, know the crag as you do? I know he was unsure.
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I would suggest mid 8a+. I was always a bit up in the air about the grade of any links that went through the good hold at the end of WTF since if you are fit enough you can actually rest here which takes the edge off a bit. But that's no different to Cloning or any of the ORT links. Its a (soft) 8a into a 7c/+ section so the "maths" works out too. Its not hard/sustained enough to be approaching 8b I wouldn't have thought.
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for instance in my own not very humble opinion if you do press right and press left i have no intention of giving you 2 8a ascents, is this wrong?
Yes. Completely. One is a grade harder and despite sharing two moves almost completely different.
1. Is the press just 2 moves to the jug then you're done?
2. Is press left hand, from the undercut LH press hold RH then to the jug, and so 1 move then you are done?
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Yes the press is 2 moves (and an easy finish that gets ignored by the foolish)
Press low left adds about 4/5 moves and takes in the start of Tsunamish/Tsunami (depending on your ethics)
Are you thinking of Bigger splash direct, which is again 2 moves
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Yes n_man has described BSD there.
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So whats Press left and right then - dont say the bleeding obvious..
How do you get two probs out of it??? :wall:
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http://www.foundryclimbing.com/articles/issue02/crimp/topo.htm (http://www.foundryclimbing.com/articles/issue02/crimp/topo.htm)
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8912.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8912.0.html)
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aww dobs, knew you'd bite. only put it to see if you go on ukb when you should be sorting out your stag doo :spank:
my comments about shit eliminate traverses on eliminates for accounts weren't directed at sean. obviously if it's your local crag you do stuff like this. don't know who it was directed at really. i think i'm going mad
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i think i'm going mad
i can arrange an assessment if you want it confirming.