UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: ajh on March 24, 2009, 07:09:41 pm
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Apologies if this has been done before - I couldn't find anything from a search though.
This problem is destroying my life and turning me into a pale, insipid shadow of my former self. After my latest session, I've crawled home again, bleeding from 3 tips and with a vague, throbbing ache in my elbows. At the grade and style, it shouldn't be giving me as much trouble as it is, so is there some sort of sneaky technique I'm missing? It feels comparable to Horn Left Hand the way I'm going about things, except harder. New Jerusalem feels like a piece of piss in comparison.
Any help would be great, cheers...
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where are you falling off?
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At last a problem I can give advice on! Climbed this on Sunday, yet got shut down on New Jerusalem, and the horn left hand, it's a funny old world.
Pull on, R hand on good pinch, R foot on a good hold, L foot on a poorer one out L, I then got the slopers on the face with my L hand, and put my R hand on the sloper with the thumb impression on the front face, make sure you get your fingers in the slight dish, dropping down a little bit can help with this, L hand out to the pebbles on the face, R foot onto a good right facing hold, get your L foot onto another smear, and windmill up to the good hold on the arete with your L hand, suck it in, and get your R foot on the good slopers, swap hands, chalk up, and go the good hold on the top with your L hand, R hand to slopers, R foot on the good hold on the arete, use your belly on the top for friction (optional), and mantel out till you can get you L foot onto the good hold on the top.
Hope this helps, although I'm sure someone will correct me!
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Andi - seem to be falling off mainly reaching for the good (?) hold on the arete. Seem to be loads and loads of options for feet, just can't seem to hit the right sequence.
Zod - nice one, cheers for that. I'd never really considered using the pebbles out left and noticed they were chalked today - will definitely have to give that method a try next time. It certainly sounds a bit more in balance and involves less frantic slapping on the arete itself, which is what I've mostly been trying. N.B. On New Jerusalem, I found that the key was to use the LH side of the crimpy rail where there's a bit of a side pull rather than pulling down on the rail itself. What you do with your feet after that depends on your height, I move my left foot up to the higher dish and bounce my right to the top of the ramp before reaching through for the sloper.
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not done this for many years and I don't remember using any pebbles.
I think you pull on and then step through with your left outside edge to a poor looking moon shaped smear that turns out to be good and then just work both hands up the arete. maybe
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is that you hobson?
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yes andi that is blatantly hobson! I recognise that style of writing anywhere. My advice is pull harder Andy!! :)
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is that you rabies?
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No who's that! :P
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:wave:
Hello Leeds Sceners. You're going on my list (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10959.0.html)
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ah well, must be a different jon r
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It is Rabies, Andi. Rabies, behave :spank:
Anyway, this is all a bit :off: (not to mention incestuous). A rematch with the problem is due this week, will try out the beta here and see how it goes...
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i might be around next week sometime to do this again because it's amazing! how's bailey?
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Cool - I was thinking of taking it easyish next week 'cos my tendons are getting well tweaky but this is getting too nemesisish - let me know if/when you're going, I'll try and make it out.
Bailey is doing fine; she's well cute! Do we have to give her back? :(
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Do we have to give her back?
YES