UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: Adam Lincoln on March 23, 2009, 07:28:57 pm
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One for Greg / Nige
What are the exact start holds for this? Not that it makes much difference...
I assume pocket for right hand?
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I think it's the lowest holds just left of the pocket.
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I think it's the lowest holds just left of the pocket.
The two flat edges next to each other?
The old Gaskins description suggests crack and pocket, I presume these are the holds used to get the break on Transgenic?
You given up going left to right, A?
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I think it's the lowest holds just left of the pocket.
You given up going left to right, A?
Kind of sucks when the crux is keep your arse of the floor!
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I think Moreau's Island was done after Gaskins' topo. Apologies, I now think it starts right hand in the crack. Not sure about left. That's not much help is it? We need Greg.
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Kind of sucks when the crux is keep your arse of the floor!
Shouldn't have such a fat ass :lol:
The old topo was written by Gaskins and had MI on it, or at least purported to be by the man.
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As far as I can remember mate, I started off two edges near the base of the crack
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As far as I can remember mate, I started off two edges near the base of the crack
Ahh nice one big dog, forgot you had done it. How did you do last move, a right heel?
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The old topo was written by Gaskins and had MI on it, or at least purported to be by the man.
I'd assumed that Greg had added MI to the old topo, rather than Gaskins re-doing it himself.
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Quite possibly, Ru. Greg did it about '06 I think, so your suggestion may well be correct.
A, drop a line to Greg on LakesBloc and he may pop in and tell us the rules.
EDIT:
Chapman completed the now compelling right to left line starting at the finishing point of Transgenic (i.e. where you rock up to the break). From here traverse leftward to the obvious first joint finger ledge on the far left of the buttress, now a dynamic lunge to a slopey edge and flexible legs are all you need to reach a good finishing hold.
Transgenic was marred only by the block hindering the last couple of moves, the new line gets this slight awkwardness out of the way early doors to leave you with some of the best climbing UK limestone has to offer! Moreau's Island V10/Fnt7c+.
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Left heel I think! Pop up for a pocket and a trickey annoying go again move.
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IMHO the logical place would be the two low holds at the base of the left hand of the two cracks. That's not to say that's where the problem starts, just where seems logical to me.
And yes I realise that's no help at all...