UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: iain on March 13, 2009, 10:00:53 am

Title: Scarpa's in the cold
Post by: iain on March 13, 2009, 10:00:53 am

I'm beginning to wonder if they lose a little stickiness in the cold. They were brilliant euro sport climbing last summer and autumn with my magos (for me) easily outperforming my 5.10 stealth velcros, but over the winter this little niggly thought has been creeping in.

In an effort to confirm or deny the niggle I performed an incredibly scientific experiment at dumbarton doing the same problem in rockettes, magos and stealth velcros and honestly thought it felt much easier and more secure in the velcros. It was cold enough to snow that day.

I'm probably being a muppet and its probably just my crap footwork, but my crap footwork feels better in 5.10's in the cold.

Anyone got an opinion? (of course you have, whether it's related to the thread or not feel free to share ...)

Cheers
Title: Re: Scarpa's in the cold
Post by: north_country_boy on March 13, 2009, 11:00:44 am
They seem to have a harde compound than Stealth or Onyx found on 5:10.

I believe one of the reasons the Anasazi V2's were brought out using the older stealth rubber, was due to complaints of the onyx rubber, becoming very soft and rolling in warm conditions, with complaints mainly from european climbers.

If only you could have Scarpa build quality and 5:10 performance and fit  :-\
Title: Re: Scarpa's in the cold
Post by: iain on March 13, 2009, 11:56:07 am

Yeah, I heard about the onyx rubber problem. My velcros are the old stealth c4 model, I stocked up when they were end of line and cheap(er)

The scarpas fit and support my spasi feet much better than the 5.10s, I've just found myself skating off holds I've always used without a problem. Feels like I have to put more thought and focussed pressure to make them stick. Maybe the cold makes the harder compound a little too stiff.


But you've got me dreaming now, magos with stealth rubber  :bow:

Title: Re: Scarpa's in the cold
Post by: Richie Crouch on March 13, 2009, 07:05:47 pm
If only you could have Scarpa build quality and 5:10 performance and fit  :-\

La Sportiva?  :-\
Title: Re: Scarpa's in the cold
Post by: jay590 on March 16, 2009, 09:58:27 am



But you've got me dreaming now, magos with stealth rubber  :bow:



You could get them resoled with stealth rubber couldn't you?
Title: Re: Scarpa's in the cold
Post by: 205Chris on March 16, 2009, 05:55:09 pm
The best pair of shoes I've used recently (mainly for grit I might add) have been a pair of LaSportiva Katanas resoled with stealth C4 rubber, although the last time I tried to get a pair resoled feet first told me they were struggling to get hold of 5.10 re-sole patches.
SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal