UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Charlie Small on March 11, 2009, 08:08:03 am
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Recommend me some 7a's or b's please. I prefer crimpy stuff to slopers and vertical to slightly overhanging suits me better than super steep rooves.
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Le Coeur - 7a Elephant
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http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4415.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4415.0.html) Some good info here as a starter for 10.
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Sa Pelle Au Logis is a good, crimpy non-polished 7A in Gorge aux Chats.
(Probably flashable) - check out some videos on Bleau.info to see where it goes - not entirely obvious at first. I got it 3rd go and I've only done about 5 7As and 7A+ in the forest.
While you're there have a bash at La Pare Dessus 7A+...Juggy ovenhanging roof into horrific Font rockover slab finish. Just what you asked for :whistle: :read:
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just to play devil's advocate ;)
sa pelle has not got a single crimp on it, but is good if you don't mind the boulder you can sit on half way though
la pere finishes to the left ie the vertical bit, not up the slab
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la pere finishes to the left ie the vertical bit, not up the slab
Bleau.info says either finish is allowable but that the slab one is "slightly easier". It even has videos of both versions so that still looks like a tick to me.
just to play devil's advocate ;)
You Dense!? :o
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sa pelle is ok, nice moves, interesting elongated pocket/slots but a bit "local", i.e. starts in a hole and like dense says then gets very close to the ground. i flashed it but had some mates not already been on it with mats and worked it all out I probably wouldn't have bothered. not classic font by any means.
if you like comfy crimps, albeit sidepulls, try footrix at cuisiniere.
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el possah, el possif at isatis are both sweet.
orgasme cosmique at mare a piat is good also.
La baliene at petit bois
Nemisis and masters edge at buthiers.
Apologies for the bad spellings!
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I haven't done this problem and in fact haven't even seen it in the flesh but it looks rather good and would appear to fit the bill........
http://bleau.info/zinnen/9681.html (http://bleau.info/zinnen/9681.html)
This has been highly recommended and is on my list (along with the sitter which apparently doesn't add that much)..........
http://bleau.info/cassepotgrises/161.html (http://bleau.info/cassepotgrises/161.html)
As lagers says Le Cœur is very good and also sounds like your type of thing.....
http://bleau.info/elephant/406.html (http://bleau.info/elephant/406.html)
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el possah, el possif at isatis are both sweet.
orgasme cosmique at mare a piat is good also.
La baliene at petit bois
good problems they are, but not particularly suited to what the guy is asking for. if he rolls up at these expecting "crimpy stuff " on "vertical to slightly overhanging" rock then he'd be in for a shock.
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you're right jasper the sitter to double axel adds absolutely nothing, if you're not small. think it would be hard then.
la pere is another case of bleau.inf to the rescue, it originally finished left but after seeing the masses rocking up they probably changed it. still good
ps monkey boy could you stop always recommending things that you like and maybe try to recommend something that someone has asked for. always keep your housekeys on you people
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just to play devil's advocate ;)
sa pelle has not got a single crimp on it, but is good if you don't mind the boulder you can sit on half way though
la pere finishes to the left ie the vertical bit, not up the slab
What, you're saying you didn't crimp all those pockets and slopers? :-[
I maybe just have a high opinion of it because I did it quickly.
And about La Paer Dessus - we finished up the slab and didn't realise till we got back that the original went up the arete.
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Recommend me some 7a's or b's please. I prefer crimpy stuff to slopers and vertical to slightly overhanging suits me better than super steep rooves.
el possah, el possif at isatis are both sweet.
orgasme cosmique at mare a piat is good also.
La baliene at petit bois
Nemisis and masters edge at buthiers.
Apologies for the bad spellings!
??? :-\ :shrug:
Edit, okay, this was already pointed out, even so...
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This always happens. When I asked for non steep, crimpy 7B+/7C's The Sausage poo-pooed the idea of Rubis and recommended L'Abbe Resina because he liked it. Needless to say I ignored him.
This thread's inspired me to start updating my list properly.
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Jasper's picks are good, but note in the pic of Nostalgie Assis he's doing the harder direct eliminate.
this: http://bleau.info/95.2/2.html (http://bleau.info/95.2/2.html)
and this: http://bleau.info/95.2/17.html (http://bleau.info/95.2/17.html)
at 95.2 should fit your bill.
Or at Cusiniere:
http://bleau.info/cuisiniere/479.html (http://bleau.info/cuisiniere/479.html)
is great.
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Or at Cusiniere:
http://bleau.info/cuisiniere/479.html (http://bleau.info/cuisiniere/479.html)
is great.
That looks ace, love the look of the gaston/match move. I bet the footholds are wank as an early teen's sex-life tho.
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That looks ace, love the look of the gaston/match move. I bet the footholds are wank as an early teen's sex-life tho.
It is an amazing problem, better for the short person I would say too because you can't just reach through. And the footholds are pretty good, just in slightly awkward places.
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A little out of the grade range, but a classic of the Forest: Rubis sur l'Ongle (http://bleau.info/chats/626.html)
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Too right. Except don't do it by the fucked up sequence the guy in the main video uses or you'll:
a) make it really hard and
b) only get a 7A tick for using the arete
:lol:
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Or at Cusiniere:
http://bleau.info/cuisiniere/479.html (http://bleau.info/cuisiniere/479.html)
is great.
That looks ace, love the look of the gaston/match move. I bet the footholds are wank as an early teen's sex-life tho.
The footholds are small but by font standards not that bad. A very nice problem.
Another vid here - but what's this, a peak lime crimp-artiste jumping past the crimpy starting moves? Shock horror! :lol:
http://www.vimeo.com/3226523 (http://www.vimeo.com/3226523)
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Some more that look good:
This was recommended to me. Super crimpy....
http://bleau.info/y/663.html (http://bleau.info/y/663.html)
This just looks ace....
http://bleau.info/tennis/674.html (http://bleau.info/tennis/674.html)
Awesome big crimpy looking crack/wall thing next to Partage.....
http://bleau.info/y/656.html (http://bleau.info/y/656.html)
Oh and if we're going to include the odd 7B+ then this....
http://bleau.info/isatis/577.html (http://bleau.info/isatis/577.html)
.....must be included. But watch out, it's fucking sharp. On my list to go back and finish.
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Aaaaahhhh!!!!! Caaaan't stoooppppp!!!!
http://bleau.info/isatis/553.html (http://bleau.info/isatis/553.html)
http://bleau.info/isatis/8667.html (http://bleau.info/isatis/8667.html)
http://bleau.info/isatis/941.html (http://bleau.info/isatis/941.html)
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This was recommended to me. Super crimpy....
http://bleau.info/y/663.html (http://bleau.info/y/663.html)
Just watched both videos, and all I could think was "poor little Christophe, he's so small!". I also thought that last time I went to Font, was the first time I didn't see him. He's always there, and always crushing everything.
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Strappal is nasty sharp (not nice sharp, like lamentations), Le Pilar Legendiere is (apparently) well morpho, and Iceberg Raccourci is nice but slopers.
More good things at Cusiniere:
Haute Tension (http://bleau.info/cuisiniere/500.html)
Soiree Bresilienne (http://bleau.info/cuisiniere/501.html)
Oh and Grande Allonge is an eliminate slab.
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Another vid here - but what's this, a peak lime crimp-artiste jumping past the crimpy starting moves? Shock horror! :lol:
thats just the normal sequence, its a frenchstart, you're in france.
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thats just the normal sequence, its a frenchstart, you're in france.
Ah, so you cheated too.
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Cheated whom exactly?
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God.
He won't be happy.
And people wonder why the global economy has gone to shit...
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I'm gonna add all problems aforementioned for my April trip aka Font 2009: Round 2. Hells yeah. ;D
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What dates you in Font for Andi?
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Most likely 8th-15th. Wanna come? I tried persuading big G but he's not allowed...
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It's gonna take a couple of years of buttering up for me to get a pass. Don't rush things :lol:
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What the fuck you talkin' bout G? You're already pre-booked on the family invasion next year, no excuses mofo.
Andi I'm there 4th to 18th.
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Sickness!!! Prepare to take down some 7b aretes. My ticklist is probably 90% 7b aretes.
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http://bleau.info/y/656.html (http://bleau.info/y/656.html)
this ones good i believe, and here longy making it look fairly hard!
http://vimeo.com/2486645 (http://vimeo.com/2486645)
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andi i don't mean to be rude but you'll be coming back with no ticks. here is a station, here is an idea. don't get one above the other
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http://bleau.info/y/656.html
this ones good i believe, and here longy making it look fairly hard!
Thanks for reminding me to tick it. You could reduce my struggles by either warming up, having beta, taking chalk, brushing the top or just generally trying it with a team not a bunch of bored smokers 'on a rest day'. Five minutes later I bust a tendon. Cry me a fuckin river.
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Oops i completely ignored the crimpy/vertical part of the thread!! Oh well you shouldnt go to font to crimp!
P.S. Dense your a c**t!! Your comments are so :yawn:
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"http://vimeo.com/2486645"
It's a manky over-hyped bloc for sure; not half as neat as the one w/ the gently overhanging 7C+ arete further back down the road, but that wall is climb is hard, or so I thought.
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Savage grammar... ouch
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andi i don't mean to be rude but you'll be coming back with no ticks. here is a station, here is an idea. don't get one above the other
Dense, which is cooler: failing on 7b aretes or failing on 6b aretes.
If you're gonna get spanked, get spanked in style :lol:
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good point well made
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No surprises there, in Dense's case it'd be failing on 6bs or 'working' an 8a.
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I've seen you fall off marie rose more than once adam! :-[
this is a really good list to start working on:
http://bleau.info/repetitions/ (http://bleau.info/repetitions/)
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it wouldn't be failing on 6b's. i don't pay a lot of money to go to font to climb 6b, nor do i pay a lot of money to do the same problem over and over