UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: andy_e on March 09, 2009, 07:29:30 pm
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Has anybody noticed if this hold has been improved or felt any bigger lately? It seems to me it has been- it both looks like it's been altered as well as it feeling easier than it used to. Anyone know anything or have the same opinion? It would be a shame if this great problem (which still felt like a great problem today) has been spoiled at all.
:boohoo:
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Its a natural hold so I suspect improvement would be pretty obvious by eye. Are you getting strong at last Andi?
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does this mean that you have used said gaston to reach the top of this boulder? :shrug:
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does this mean that you have used said gaston to reach the top of this boulder? :shrug:
I did it first about a year ago (probably about a year before that time we were trying it after jee crushed zoo york), and did it twice yesterday for the camera, first go, and the hold felt a lot bigger and more positive than before so i dunno... it also looks different to in some of the photos on yorkshiregrit.com although they aren't exactly clear...
Are you getting strong at last Andi?
:o Maybe!
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Consensus yesterday was that this hold has definitely got a little bigger (people were discussing it without knowing about this thread). No foul play suggested, just soft wet rock and some brushing. It felt to me as if a lot of the grains on the hold were moving and it wouldn't surprise me if it keeps getting bigger. Any Leeds stabilisation experts out there?
Sorry Andi, I'm sure you'll get stronger one day :great:
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Dont be daft. Whenever I see him nowadays he's carrying a skateboard and complaining that nobody understands him and that I should "stick it to the man". That ain't a strong look.
Was this for Sam, Andi?
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I seem to remember this hold was fairly crumbly and soft so has probably worn away over time, Also the fact you have gotten stronger since you last tried it exacerbated the fact
big shout out to SF!
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Was this for Sam, Andi?
eh what?
So what's the consensus grade now? I'd probably say easy font 7a...
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you've got to be joking.
I think Font 6b morpho would be a more appropriate grade. One foot movement does not a hard problem make.
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Consensus says.
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=caley__new_jerusalem#gradevotedetails (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=caley__new_jerusalem#gradevotedetails)
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Consensus says.
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=caley__new_jerusalem#gradevotedetails (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=caley__new_jerusalem#gradevotedetails)
did you just ignore the rest of the thread?
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No, I just used the word concensus to mean what it does in the dictionary.
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...and the problem has changed since those votes were made, hence new opinions. :shrug:
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precisely. What date did the problem change? Andi asked what the concensus grade is.
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Stop being a pedant, are you adding anything useful here?
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Surely it doesn't matter, the valuable lesson we can learn here is that Andi is still weak. And that's the important bit. ;)
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Stop being a pedant, are you adding anything useful here?
No more than you are. Have you done it in current state? If so I take it all back and happily accept the point.
I would smite you back, but it's not worth it.
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Stop being a pedant, are you adding anything useful here?
Are you?
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Stop being a pedant, are you adding anything useful here?
No more than you are. Have you done it in current state? If so I take it all back and happily accept the point.
I would smite you back, but it's not worth it.
yes, on sunday.
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kinell...... handbags
I was going to offer an opinion having been to Caley for the first time on Sunday and done the problem, but am a bit scared now
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Please do, so a concensus can be reached :)
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(http://img1.jurko.net/avatar_11076.gif)(http://img1.jurko.net/avatar_11076.gif)(http://img1.jurko.net/avatar_11076.gif)(http://img1.jurko.net/avatar_11076.gif)(http://img1.jurko.net/avatar_11076.gif)(http://img1.jurko.net/avatar_11076.gif)
(Cheers Percy for the perfect GIF)
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Have you done it in current state? If so I take it all back and happily accept the point.
yes, on sunday.
Classic. :lol:
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From the photos on yg it looks a tad contrived and eliminate... unlike Harts Arete 1 handed, the 7ft dyno and Vitalite to name but a few :whistle:
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Please do, so a concensus can be reached Smiley
maybe 6c ? maybe less but not more
I think however it is height dependant.
I could reach the break with my feet on the ledge
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/z5l0ntQtrSWruHtS8V6MoQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCNXp58HWkcjiLg&feat=directlink (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/z5l0ntQtrSWruHtS8V6MoQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCNXp58HWkcjiLg&feat=directlink)
I think its harder if you're shorter
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Sorry should have looked like this
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tAPUVH8YW7s/Sb-xpb36CvI/AAAAAAAAABA/6ieqEtz2D38/s512/DSC_0357.JPG)
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I could reach the break with my feet on the ledge
I think its harder if you're shorter
I think we reached a consensus on Sunday that if you are 5'5" with a zero or positive ape index then you can reach the break from the substantially improved no longer a poor gaston but now a very positive three finger crimp. If not then you're going to struggle.
Where's the photos of me struggling to prove the point?
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I suspect my (lack of) flexibility probably didn't help either.
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feel a need to de-lurk (unlurk?) and ask a question here. i was there on sunday too,along with a couple of old school mates who both swear blind that there never used to be a jug after the slope you reach from the gaston. i didn't like to suggest that age had dimmed their memory so i was wondering if anyone here is in a position to do it for me. confirm it's always been there i mean. i'm happy to point out that their memory is shot.
also,with regard to this being easier if your tall. well yea, i can reach the gaston from the floor and from there it's easy. a bit harder if you take the hold with the left hand but still never 7a. However, that felt wrong and i couldn't take the tick. so i tried from the lower holds. and got nowhere. Basically i can't get into this position http://www.flickr.com/photos/jonbassindale/3360130070/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jonbassindale/3360130070/) because A. i'm too weak to hang that left hand. B. i nearly tore something in my right shoulder and c. i don't fit into that space. Now i'm only 6'1", anybody got some beta to deal with this or do i just have get stronger and more flexible?
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Its a long time since I've done this but it must have got a fair bit easier to be considered 6c by anybody.
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maybe people are pulling on with the gaston and thinking its easier? in that photo jon posted, thats the starting position i was always shown.
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Likewise. Pic in old bouldering guide is the same.
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I started on the rail and still reckon its no harder than 6c.
Can the hold have really got that much bigger over a few years ?
It seems a very fast rate of erosion just from a bit of brushing ?
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it was hardly a desperate problem in the first place was it?
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maybe people are pulling on with the gaston and thinking its easier?
...not here. in response to JB: the RH hold is pretty large.
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So i guess that jug has always been there and i get to laugh at chris and al. Plus i can argue that, whatever the grade, it stays the same regardless of how tall you are 'cos the first move is harder for those of us that can reach the gaston from the floor. Now all i have to do is find a way to pull on. :'(
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jon the good beta i got shown for this was on that left hand rail hold, put your thumb on the main rail bit (where that bird's left hand is in your photo) and your fingers on a sub-hold sidepull on the end, so you're in effect laying away off the end of the rain instead of just holding it flat. this not only feels a lot better, but it puts your body a lot higher, hence easier to get into that egyptian position. i flashed it with this beta - check me the fuck out.
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cheers dave, i'll be checking that out next time i'm over.
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Now i'm only 6'1", anybody got some beta to deal with this or do i just have get stronger and more flexible?
It was a couple of years ago when i did this and only been back once since, anyway, i remember dropping the left knee first then making a hand movement then dropping my right knee. I'm the same height as you, so maybe it will help. Good luck
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Did this problem today for the 1st time in 2 years. The gaston hold is definitely much bigger than when I did it before (spring 2007) and so it's now a much easier problem (6c at most, even for short people - I'm 5' 7").
I don't remember the big bucket hold being there before either...
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this thread is hurting my eyes. all i know is the hold above the sloper has always been a jug, give or take a millenia
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Did this problem today for the 1st time in 2 years. The gaston hold is definitely much bigger than when I did it before (spring 2007) and so it's now a much easier problem (6c at most, even for short people - I'm 5' 7").
I don't remember the big bucket hold being there before either...
that's not short !
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No it's not, it's miniscule!
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Just to re-iterate, and this is probably falling on deaf ears of the massive - but the hold in question is definitely getting bigger.
Please DO NOT use a Lapis or M16 brush on this hold, or preferably, not even use any sort of brush at all, but instead use a towel to bring the hold back in to condition. This hold is good enough to not need a brushing so please don't, before this classic problem is worn down into nothing.
Thanks.
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is there nobody leeds based with Stabilsation beta?
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Nik is the closest but he's way over in Tod, but nobody Leeds way has been initiated into the secretive tribe of rock-protectors... I vote uptown become the wise master of the resin.
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Uptown has got some, unless he's used all of it!
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Is it quite a sandy hold? Is that the reason it's eroding?
If so, it'd be a good time to treat it as it's been dry a while.
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It'll probably rain sometime tomorrow - so tonights the night if anyones got the chemicals...
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_z5hT1P0X79c/RqyHk7pp_FI/AAAAAAAAAu4/Wab6C617qYg/s320/ronseal.jpg)
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is there nobody leeds based with Stabilsation beta?
I am not leeds based anymore but you could try using superglue. Small amounts so it soaks into the lipasphere and should over a few applications stabalise the rock.
Another alternative would be to use brick stabaliser from somewhere like B&Q, but remeber when its paited on it dries out white. This will then wash and scrub off.
Hope this helps
T
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If it turns white it'll look just like normal ;)
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Fucking hell, this thread will have Ed Brown shuffling in his fluffy slippers.
6c, always has been, always will. I was here with Katzy San a couple of weeks ago - its the same.
What's a Pedant - I'm guessing some form of insect? Possibly it was a Pedant chewing its way through the crystals of grit, making the hold seem slightly larger. Paul B - maybe the grains you felt where Pedant excrement. Should have brushed the holds.
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Fucking hell, this thread will have Ed Brown shuffling in his fluffy slippers.
6c, always has been, always will. I was here with Katzy San a couple of weeks ago - its the same.
What's a Pedant - I'm guessing some form of insect? Possibly it was a Pedant chewing its way through the crystals of grit, making the hold seem slightly larger. Paul B - maybe the grains you felt where Pedant excrement. Should have brushed the holds.
I'm taking from this last post that you actually have CJD. Fucking hilarious :whistle:
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I've just spat a funny-mouth all over my keyboard! ;D
Lipasphere - we need the Stallion.
I have said chemicals and can 'trip' the chevin next week at some time if the said problem doesn't vaporise 'til then.
Answer my frickin' texts nemo!
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Nemo doesn't answer texts as it costs him money.
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a'ight holmes, give me time to get to my phone, jeez louise.
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I tried this about 5 years ago and couldn't do it....
Did it second go on Saturday... Was a bit disapointed to be honest, was expecting a bit of a fight.. The gaston/crimp felt massive! Don't remember it being this big before... I was a bit gutted really as it's been on my to-do list for ages and although the move off this hold to the sloper is good it's nowhere near 7a IMO...
I also did the pinch which felt just as hard...
Dunno what this means... :shrug:
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Lipasphere ? That's a made up word if ever I heard one.
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Lipasphere ? That's a made up word if ever I heard one.
Its like the hydroshpere, or cryosphere, except made from Lips...
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For the record I don't really think there's a case for changing this hold. I think there's a difference between a crucial hold thats about to snap off leaving the problem undoable and a hold that just gets better over time. Surely all that's at stake is the grade :shrug:
Ho hum
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Ok Will, you don’t think there is a case. I think there is and it’s this:
The hold is reported to be sandy and deteriorating
Without stabilisation this will definitely continue and probably accelerate as the hold is also used as a foothold
This will ruin the problem now
The decision to do nothing is not reversible and future climbers will be denied a classic
Eventually the hold will become unsightly, which is offensive to climbers and non climbers alike
A repair of this type is effectively invisible
A repair of this type and size will probably be highly effective and protect the hold for years
It's not just the grade that's at stake, it's the quality of climbing and the integrity of the rock
By your logic, why should we bother cleaning grit off our boots before climbing, who cares about polish, it's only the grade that's at stake after all :shrug:
I'd love to hear what exactly people object to about well done stabilisation work. I noticed a fair bit of naysaying on YG about stabilising the hold, but little in the way of a coherent argument for this view.
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A repair of this type is effectively invisible
Just to reiterate this point, there are properly repaired holds in the peak that people climb on every day without even being able to tell anything has been done. I can see why the yorks scene might be twitchy about repairs when there's all that unsightly cement shit at bridestones, but it doesn't have to be like that.
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I was wondering the other day what the Kebs would be like if someone had stepped in early and done a simple repair with stabiliser, rather than leaving it too late and botching the repair jobs.
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Taking this topic from YG.com, in this specific case I think there is sufficient reason to stabalise the hold. I haven't taken any notice of the latest techniques of doing this but I'm sure it will hardly be noticed.
It's nothing to do with altering the grade but ensuring that the problem remains as good as it has been in the past. As the human species manages their environment to such an extent, trying to stop one small piece of rock change for the worse seems pretty minor to me.
However, the problem is created - where does it stop? If less experienced or educated climbers understand that they can paste chemicals onto holds which have minor deterioration, this will create a problem. The issue in Yorkshire is that very little altering of holds has occurred in the past (aside from Bridestones which has put the local population off). I think reluctance to alter holds comes from not wanting to interefere to keep the crags "natural" and an "Old Skool" mentality. The irony is though that if no intervention is undertaken then some problems/crags will erode into a state where no climber can appreciate them. It is a more complex issue than just fixing this one problem.
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I suspect that if someone had gone and stabilised the hold properly without mentioning it, very few people would ever have noticed.
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Without a doubt! I probably wouldn't have noticed either
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haha I quite like the idea of keeping a hold 'natural' at a crag littered with the chipped problems of previous generations!
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I have been keeping up to date with this topic on Yorkshiregit! but feel that maybe this is a more level board to float opinions.
It is true to say that scaring of rock looks ugly to climbers and Jo public, but then the application of chalk to a boulder looks ugly also, to Jo public and some boulders if pushed may agree!. It is also to late in the day to play the "conservation" card, as we have created the said mess, in order gratify our needs, as climbers.Also, yes the Kebs is a proper mess now, but also a great valuable lesson could be learnt from this action. Also say that the gaston was glued, how do we know what it shall be like in years to come, after it has been brushed, my guess is that it shall be smooth and glassy. I can see the discussion from both sides, yet Robin has gained himself a load of respect over the 20 years, as a contributer to this activity of bouldering and routing in the area, and i really think he has a slightly stronger case. Also Robin and myself have developed a new area at caley, we were hoping YG would publish it, but we can only assume the recent debate may have put an end to that.
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why do you think a repaired hold would go glassy? I'd check out other repaired holds that have had a few years use in the peak before jumping to that conclusion.
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ok, good idea Dave - please could you let me know what problems they are on?, as heading that way at wkend!
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If you want a more local venue to check holds at you could see if you and Robin can spot which holds have been treated at Whitehouses, I certainly can't tell the difference.
Jon doesn't update YG every day, give him some time, I'm sure he'll get round to it. So has everything been climbed at the new area now? Heard they may be something quite tricky to go there...
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ok, thanks, shall try to get up there as never been before, looks good though!
Mostly all done now, at the new place. If you go don't miss out the leaning right arete of Finches Fuel V6, on wall right of overhung prow, and Ayes V5 directly up wall left of prow, via flake for right hand. Also the lower traverse of Sorrel from right around arete to finish past mono to top, found lower down bank behind boulders.
good luck
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haha I quite like the idea of keeping a hold 'natural' at a crag littered with the chipped problems of previous generations!
Exactly!
I suppose one main issue is to get someone who knows what they are doing.
I'm also sorry to say that those new problems have been done at Caley quite a few years ago. I'm not sure who by origonaly but for some reason the were never recorded.
A friend showed me them at the weekend. That large prow has been done many years ago, along with those aretes and the wall next to it (basically everything except the right hand side of the prow which is a very hard project). I first heard of them after Ben Bransby and friends cleaned the prow and sparked a bit of interest, probably approaching 5 years ago now and it had even been done years before that. The prow is a tricky V7 (more like V8), which Nige Poustie even broke his ankle on due the the slopey landing. Making our way back to t he car was.......interesting! The other smaller problems, like the two caves probably hadn't been done but the plum line is that arete/prow. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news and I can certainly understand why you and Robin think it is a new area. It's very difficult to find unclimbed problems at the Cliff or Caley! I certainly have spent quite a bit of time looking for missed lines!
Anyway, well done for being keen and finding it. I think it's good that you have reported it so the same mistake doesn't happen again
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ok, good idea Dave - please could you let me know what problems they are on?, as heading that way at wkend!
I'll try and remember some as example - thats the problem, the repairs are so invisible you forget.
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ok, I don't mind if that is true Tom, yet by the amount of moss and general growth clinging to them, it must have been at least a decade ago, also The arete right of the prow lost a few pebbles on working it out, for sure they would have come off before now, if already climbed. Along with the traverse of the lower boulders, from behind! But yes you have a point, I remember Derek Ashworth trying to describe where the prow was in the woods, about 10 years ago!... But also Tom as you know, you did not get the first ascent of "Banana republic" but you claimed it, it was first climbed in the 90's.
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It does grow over very quickly in the woods. I'm not saying that most of what you have done isn't new, I'm sure some of them are but the main lines there were climbed many years ago.
As for Banana Republic that certainly was a new problem, a very tough Font8a. If you are getting your info from the old ACD guide, Banana Split (the stand up version) was in there. It was a "penciled in" problem (meaning noted in the guide but never actually climbed - there are many example of such problems in that guide). It was given the ridiculous grade of V4, which it clearly was not. No one knew of the problem, no one had climbed the problem. If you know who did said problem in the 90s that's be great to hear and why say now rather than the time of the first ascent? I have to say I'm a bit insulted by you suggesting that I knew it had been climbed before but I still claimed it. if you want to talk more about it I'd probably be best to PM me rather than let another thread go :off:
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I think we are getting a bit off the point and moving somewhere noone wants to go with this. Can someone with the right skills and chemicals please stabilise the hold. No disrespect to Robin as a developer of new areas and problems but what happens if it is left as it is? We lose a hold and end up with a scar. Why would anyone want that? It has to be a be a no brainer.
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:agree: fix the hold & the "who climbed what when" is all getting a bit UKC...
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I'm also sorry to say that those new problems have been done at Caley quite a few years ago. I'm not sure who by origonaly but for some reason the were never recorded.
Ha! Welcome to yorkshire... :lol:
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:agree: ain't no room for Cocktalk here. Couldn't let that little dig pass - apologies, should have held my tongue......erm......fingers.
There is obviously no rock police or governing body so people are free to do as they choose but with respect for the crag and climbing population. If the general consensus is to fix the hold then so be it - this is a democratic society afterall (?) and the overwhelming reaction is to get it sorted. Who is THE CHOSEN ONE or maybe they want to remain anonymous?
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I think it would be a terrible shame if some anonymous person with good knowledge of repairing holds were to sneak there and fix it without anyone knowing. Scandalous.
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I think its widely accepted that repairs to this sort of hold are invisible and so far don't seem to cause any side effects either so why all the umming and arring?
Its either this or a crumbled hold that will look hideous and make the problem shit.
Has some one got an expenses form for a duck house in their pond?
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I'd say the potential consequences of inaction are rather worse than those of action.
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Ed Brown's pride and joy in danger!!!?
Get it repaired - done properly no-one will even notice.
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Fair arguments there. Just be careful (of course I'm sure whoever does it will do a great job).
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sorry Tom, I may have given you some upsetting news, but the standing start on the arete was done by JP, he never claimed it, as no one did then! I do also think that your efforts were fantastic and the amount of time you spent on the said problem, you deserve to be noted for its reserection. Really it should not be about first ascents, but the fact that we are offering people new/forgotten places or problems, for their enjoyment. Kudos is ugly and is never the best suite, only to be worn by the needy, after all !
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It was the suggestion of me knowing that it had already been climbed but still claiming it which upset me, not that it had been done before. I never knew JP had done it until yesterday. I'm not too bothered as the sitter is the proper line.
Anyway, I agree with your sentiment and no hard feelings.
Let's keep this thread on topic
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:agree: ain't no room for Cocktalk here. Couldn't let that little dig pass - apologies, should have held my tongue......erm......fingers.
There is obviously no rock police or governing body so people are free to do as they choose but with respect for the crag and climbing population. If the general consensus is to fix the hold then so be it - this is a democratic society afterall (?) and the overwhelming reaction is to get it sorted. Who is THE CHOSEN ONE or maybe they want to remain anonymous?
"...there can be ONLY ONE....."
(http://webspace.webring.com/people/fa/aringmaster/highland_ring/highlander_logo2.jpg)
ahem
I reckon whoever "fixes" it should chip the edge off the hold (juggy as it is now with the patina edge and worn away soft crumbly stuff) and stabilise it back to the tiniest imaginable crimp - surely this is how nature intended this hold to be. After all, it's not as if these boulders have been formed by the gradual erosive environmental processes acting over thousands of years on sand and pebbles laid down underwater millennia ago is it?
I don't know where i'm going with this sorry :oops:
it's got easier - it'll get worse (not sure if i necessarily agree with the visual impairment for non-climbers, don't know if my ladyfriend would notice?)
... so someone please fix it. i'd be willing to contribute to chemical expenses
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sorry Tom, I may have given you some upsetting news, but the standing start on the arete was done by JP, he never claimed it, as no one did then!
Sorry for going off topic, but this struck me as a strange thing to say. Which period of history are you referring to? The JP I used to climb with at Almscliff in the early 90s was dead keen on establishing the historical record, he even ran a website on Yorkshire bouldering for a while.
This was a period when the first dedicated bouldering guides appeared - as I recall everyone was spreading information about what they had done. Even Streaky's generation seemed pretty on the ball about who had done what. The idea that no-one claimed first ascents is bogus.
(NB. I'm not saying he didn't do the stand up - he was always very talented and no doubt capable of such an act - just that in this exception perhaps he didn't bother claiming it because, as Tom points out, he knew that the sitter was the real deal?)
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Few pointers relating to this thread- Thought we'd had an amnesty on counter claiming on YG when Jon decided to restart his webpage last autumn....
The problem with Yorkshire bouldering is that there has always been the presumption that everything has already been done particularly so at Caley I'd say with Fawcett, Manson, Desroy, Swann, Rhodes etc being major earlier pioneers. Hence people haven't tended to claim easier problems and the newbies documented in The Thing by Si Panton et al. in the 90's were claimed as definite firsts in light of the Rhodes guidebook and the Desroy guide.
The main references that come to mind for documentation of boulder problems in Yorkshire are the few pics in the Fawcett on Rock book, the Desroy circuits (is it perhaps a beneign bumble?), Rhodes guide, The Thing articles, Cameron Duff guide, Dunning Guide and online yg.com and JP Hotham http://web.archive.org/web/ (http://web.archive.org/web/)*/http://www.geocities.com/yorkshireboulder/ Unfortuately I haven't got these to hand today and me internet is going superslow but will have a look through the archives when i can.
Anyways the real issue of this thread is when is someone going to get the superglue out to stabilise Hetchell, most of Brimham etc etc etc etc etc etc.
Well its a lovely day so I'm off out before it gets too warm to get on my latest project- with lay down start of course ;>)
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The main references that come to mind for documentation of boulder problems in Yorkshire are the few pics in the Fawcett on Rock book, the Desroy circuits (is it perhaps a beneign bumble?), Rhodes guide, The Thing articles, Cameron Duff guide, Dunning Guide and online yg.com and JP Hotham http://web.archive.org/web/ (http://web.archive.org/web/)*/http://www.geocities.com/yorkshireboulder/ Unfortuately I haven't got these to hand today and me internet is going superslow but will have a look through the archives when i can.
I've a copy of "Wild Bouldering in Yorkshire" (1997) by Tony Barley and Nigel Baker that has sections on history if anyone is interested in details (I might be arsed to read and repeat or transcribe shit).
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Few pointers relating to this thread- Thought we'd had an amnesty on counter claiming on YG when Jon decided to restart his webpage last autumn....
Did we? Does that mean YG can decree the FAist contrary to popop and folklore? :P
The main references that come to mind for documentation of boulder problems in Yorkshire are the few pics in the Fawcett on Rock book, the Desroy circuits (is it perhaps a beneign bumble?), Rhodes guide, The Thing articles, Cameron Duff guide, Dunning Guide and online yg.com and JP Hotham http://web.archive.org/web/ (http://web.archive.org/web/)*/http://www.geocities.com/yorkshireboulder/
Also the old UKB database, and JW's and UTG's excellent and comprehensive lists.
Anyways the real issue of this thread is when is someone going to get the superglue out to stabilise Hetchell, most of Brimham etc etc etc etc etc etc.
No superglue please - we've covered this before, professional jobs require professional solutions. And IMHO anyone doing any form of rock repair MUST have the balls to stick their name in the line of fire (good examples being BJ, N@W, CD, that Churnet shizzle, Mecca, Ground effect etc) for accountability and justifications. Let's not have anymore anonymous 'tube' waving please.
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Ooops that may have looked like I was condoning repair. I'm on the leave it alone side- just highlighting one of the methods of repair that had been suggested + once you start tampering with one problem in a certain way where do you end? Just go and find something else to climb there's plenty out there.
Oh and another couple of more recents to add to list of caley devotees Clifford, Birch
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No superglue please - we've covered this before, professional jobs require professional solutions.
Since when was superglue considered a poor solution? For small repair, it's still the best if done properly.
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when all is said and done, when all the shouting and philosophizing and moralizing is over, I suspect that this topic is simply another example of something.
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when all is said and done, when all the shouting and philosophizing and moralizing is over, I suspect that this topic is simply another example of something.
There's another T-shirt/Hoodie right there.
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once you start tampering with one problem in a certain way where do you end? Just go and find something else to climb there's plenty out there.
'Tampering' on grit should be restricted to cleaning and preserving what is there. No chipping or such like. There is no reason for this to become the ethical slippery slope you suggest.
I don't believe that there is plenty out there and for a simple fix it can be preserved and still be climbed on. So why not?
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I suspect that this topic is simply another example of something.
genius, a man after my own heart, that vision and clarity to see the world for what it is.
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I don't believe that there is plenty out there and for a simple fix it can be preserved and still be climbed on. So why not?
Plenty of action to be had at the Glen and Caley etc trying things sans chips. Chiseller at Ilkley is good if you like slabs.
Just didn't want to end up with another Cuvier...
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Shit, are people meeting up at caley to bum now?
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Shit, are people meeting up at caley to bum now?
always have, always will.
especially when the bracken gets up. I've personally seen 10 man naked pile ons right under the NJ boulder - maybe it's the salt that's affecting the patina.....
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Was on NJ today (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6407.msg263886.html#msg263886 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6407.msg263886.html#msg263886)) and the Gaston seemed pretty secure/solid... Didnt feel like it had changed since last year. It is however a little darker and almost looks like it has a wet streak in the middle, and I wonder if it suffers a little from seepage through the gaston - hence the weakness etc..