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the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: St Hubbins on March 05, 2009, 10:57:23 am

Title: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: St Hubbins on March 05, 2009, 10:57:23 am
Anyone else own too many pairs of climbing shoes?

My wife say's I'm like Jackie Onassis as I have 3 pairs in my bag and 4 "unworn or saving for a special problem/route" in the wardrobe.

I also have about 4 pair of old worn boots that are for DWS.

How many pairs do you guys have floating about?
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: slackline on March 05, 2009, 10:59:09 am
Five or six floating around in various states of (dis-)repair.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: tomtom on March 05, 2009, 11:01:43 am
Two pairs that I use and three old pairs that are holed/no use.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: chillax on March 05, 2009, 11:04:57 am
6 pairs, climbing 3 years. 4 functional, 2 essentially useless but I can't bear to throw them out!
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: St Hubbins on March 05, 2009, 11:07:02 am
So none waiting to be worn?

Ok, how do i change my profile name to Imelda Marcos?
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: chillax on March 05, 2009, 11:13:14 am
I have a pair of dragons I wear very sparingly, as they're like fucking gold dust in Ireland! After 6 months they still smell new.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 05, 2009, 11:18:21 am
So none waiting to be worn?

Ok, how do i change my profile name to Imelda Marcos?

Having four pairs stockpiled for later use is a tad excessive! Only ever had that many when they were free. Speaking of which, where is Nibs? This thread is made for him.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: magpie on March 05, 2009, 12:27:05 pm
There's no such thing as too many pairs of shoes.  I have 5 pairs of climbing shoes, which I don't think is bad at all, although I only actually wear 1 pair at the moment cause the rest either don't fit / aren't broken in well enough  ::)

Until you get well into double figures there is no issue, people need different shoes for different problems / types of climbing, it's sensible really  :)

It may be best to ignore me on shoe related matters though, last time I counted I was nearly into triple figures with regular shoes  :-[
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: robertostallioni on March 05, 2009, 12:48:36 pm
2 Pairs in the shed, 1 for climbing and a holey pair for foot on campussing.
3 Outdoor pairs. 5.10 Velcro, lace up & green laceup.
2 Comp shoes, 5.10 Dragons and Jet 7's
4 pairs in my wall bag, Toe-down Nepa's, knacked Venoms, old Mantra S's and 5.10 blue slippers.
Another 5 pairs of older shoes with the left toe gone through either waiting for shed use or handing over to Leeds Wall for the punters to finish off....

2 new pairs on order.
5.10 projects & LaSportiva Speedsters. Oh yeah.

Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: chillax on March 05, 2009, 01:10:17 pm
 :bow:
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: St Hubbins on March 05, 2009, 01:12:34 pm
Ahh a fellow hoarder! My list is...

Climbing bag: 1 pair of Boreal Zens, 1 pair Mad rock flash for smearyness and trashing, 1 pair Boreal Mutants for indoor training.

Wardrobe: 1 pair back up Boreal Pyros & Zens, 1 pair Boreal Falcons, 1 pair boreal Crux

DWS bag: Mad rock mugens - hole in toe, 5.10 Zlippers -ok, boreal pyros - toe almost gone, Boreal Stingers - toe almost gone but i will never get rid of those bad boys

Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: robertostallioni on March 05, 2009, 01:25:43 pm
I remember, well about 7-8 years ago in the Foundry, a box of shoes appeared in the Crag X shop. Jerry was getting rid of his old stash and they were all available for about 5-10 quid. I'm generally about a 7 rockshoe but these were all about a 9(ish). I remember a pair of stingers, but soft like the 'new' matrix. Jerry had,I recall, a hand in the design and requested a pair with no midsole. There was also a pair of those Boreal Indo's with the grey 'indoor' sole. Was tempted to get a random pair to put under my pillow etc.(not to sniff or scuttle as such) but just as memorabilia from the man himself. But I didn't.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: andymarshll on March 05, 2009, 01:28:42 pm
Coronas, a dying pair of venoms and scarpa stix for the wall,

Vipers and testarossas for the real deal

V10s (which i will probably avoid using forever to keep them safe from harm) and dragons in waiting.

various gone throught the toe shoes for messing about in, and some just in cupboards.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: SA Chris on March 05, 2009, 01:29:19 pm
1 easy wall pair - knackered Mugens
1 harder wall pair - Evolv Defy - just gone through toe

1 easy outdoor pair - brand new Evolv Defy
1 hard outdoor pair - Mugens (slightly smaller - new)
1 hard outdoor pair - Mugens (worn in)

in cupboard
1 x Pink 5.10 lace ups (shot)
1 x old red 5.10 slippers (shot)
1 x Mugens (shot)
1 x Chilli Corona VCRS (too big, probably sell)

Had a pair of Boreal Aces, but gave to Will to go with his retro tights.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: webbo on March 05, 2009, 03:13:51 pm
in bag
1 pair kantanas
1 pair velcro myiras
1 pair 5.10 t rocks
in car
1 pair 5.10 velcros
2 pairs of kantanas with holes in right toe
1 pair of v10s worn once
in garage
1 pair 5.10 moccasins
2 pairs of knackered 5.10 velcros
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: nik at work on March 05, 2009, 03:20:23 pm
What the fuck is wrong with you people?
1 pair of 5.10 green lace-ups, end of.

(although there are brief periods where I have two pairs as one dies off to be seamlessly replaced by a new pair)
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Stabbsy on March 05, 2009, 04:12:38 pm
Think I should show this thread to my girlfriend, she seems to think I'm the only one with footwear issues - although I can't compete with the volume of non-climbing footwear that she's got.

2 pairs of Boosters (1 wearing in, 1 wearing out)
2 pairs of Katanas (same story)
1 pair of Miuras (knacked)
1 pair of Miura VX (new-ish)
1 pair of Green Anasazi (worn in and ready for action)
1 pair of Anasazi Velcros (old and painful)

I still think there room for another couple in the cupboard......
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: SA Chris on March 05, 2009, 04:17:24 pm
What the fuck is wrong with you people?
1 pair of 5.10 green lace-ups, end of.


The majority is sane
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Drew on March 05, 2009, 04:49:23 pm
I feel a bit rubbish

In bag (for indoors and outdoors)
2 x 5.10 Anasazi VCS (1 old, 1 new)
1x 5.10 Anasazi Verde (still quite new)

In cupboard
1 x Red Chilli X-Cube (too big but damn cheap)
2 x 5.10 Anasazi VCS (knackered, but can't bear to throw them away)

That's it. I might cut up some of the old 5.10's and stick the rubber over the top of the toe for hooking.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: etjoset on March 05, 2009, 05:06:38 pm
This thread has prompted me to dig out my special box from the attic wherein I found no less that 28 pairs of top quality rock boots (boots used advisedly) including Boreal Fires, Scarpa Crag Rats, Super Rats, those Scarpa purple and green things from about 1988, Asolo Onsights, Boreal Aces, Boreal Lasers (6 pairs). Coming more up to date there are 12 pairs of 5.10 pinks, 2 pairs of Newtons, 2 pairs of T Rocks and a pair of Verdes. This little collection doesn't include my original pair of EBs and a pair of fetching red and yellow Hanwags (with heals) that reside in a cupboard at my parents house (Lord alone only knows why they haven't thrown them away after 27 years).

In my day bag I currently have 2 pairs of Verdes, 1 pair of Dragons and 1 pair of V2s.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Drew on March 05, 2009, 05:14:30 pm
Your attic must smell quite bad! 2 pairs of Newtons? I think one single Newton (not even a full pair) is usually enough to make a normal sized room smell so bad, even climbers can't survive!
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Richie Crouch on March 05, 2009, 07:29:45 pm
I thought I had too many but not so it appears!

Outdoor shoes: 1 x 5.10 5X & 1 x Sportiva Solutions
Indoor: 1 x 5.10 Jet 7 (1 holey), 1 x Sportiva solution (holes), 1 x 5.10 V10 (holes), 1 x 5.10 Anasazi blue (1 holey), 1 x Sportiva Cobra (knackered)
In Shed: 1 x 5.10 old Anasazi Velcro (dead), 1 x Scarpa Marathon (shit!)
On Order: Madrock Hooker EZ

Not too bad apart from all the old knackered shows I have for indoors  :(
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: GCW on March 05, 2009, 07:38:16 pm
1x Fires, battered and re-soled.  Never use them now for some reason.
1x 5.10 Asymms that bagged out loads and rarely get worn
4x 5.10 Pinks with varying sized holes in them
1x la Sportiva Vipers (the old blue ones), battered and re-soled.  Currently at my Dad's for when I visit.
2x 5.10 Verdes, one new pair and one battered pair.
1x 5.10 Dragons, used as required.

10 pairs ain't too bad.....
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: SA Chris on March 05, 2009, 07:41:05 pm
This thread has prompted me to dig out my special box from the attic wherein I found no less that 28 pairs of top quality rock boots (boots used advisedly) including Boreal Fires, Scarpa Crag Rats, Super Rats, those Scarpa purple and green things from about 1988, Asolo Onsights, Boreal Aces, Boreal Lasers (6 pairs). Coming more up to date there are 12 pairs of 5.10 pinks, 2 pairs of Newtons, 2 pairs of T Rocks and a pair of Verdes. This little collection doesn't include my original pair of EBs and a pair of fetching red and yellow Hanwags (with heals) that reside in a cupboard at my parents house (Lord alone only knows why they haven't thrown them away after 27 years).

In my day bag I currently have 2 pairs of Verdes, 1 pair of Dragons and 1 pair of V2s.

Pic?

That's a veritable museum.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Jim on March 05, 2009, 08:56:52 pm
in bag:
green lace up, dragons, velco's and some boreals for the wall

big box full of loads of old shoes in the garage for use on the board
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: nik at work on March 05, 2009, 09:06:03 pm
Am I seriously the only person on this board who doesn't feel the need to have different shoes for every day of the week?

(of course if 5.10 want to send me half a dozen pairs of boots I wouldn't say no...)
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: marty on March 05, 2009, 09:27:56 pm
Am I seriously the only person on this board who doesn't feel the need to have different shoes for every day of the week?

(of course if 5.10 want to send me half a dozen pairs of boots I wouldn't say no...)

I think so yet. I thought that my Emelda marcus collection was excessive, but I feel vindicated by this thread. So much so, that I may spring for a new pair Saturday .... Dragons, you say  :-\
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: SA Chris on March 05, 2009, 10:33:39 pm
Am I seriously the only person on this board who doesn't feel the need to have different shoes for every day of the week?

(of course if 5.10 want to send me half a dozen pairs of boots I wouldn't say no...)

My rock shoe collection is on a par with my collection of other sport related footwear. Although i am sure some of the trainer afficianados have truckloads.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Falling Down on March 05, 2009, 11:34:47 pm
Am I seriously the only person on this board who doesn't feel the need to have different shoes for every day of the week?


No. I've  one pair of 5.10 velcro's, one pair of green lace-ups  and a pair of Jokers for long or easy trad routes.

It's a right waste of money having loads of shoes... suckers  :)
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Paul B on March 05, 2009, 11:44:31 pm
Am I seriously the only person on this board who doesn't feel the need to have different shoes for every day of the week?

(of course if 5.10 want to send me half a dozen pairs of boots I wouldn't say no...)


You're disadvantaging yourself massively if you don't have at least a pair of soft shoes and a decent pair of something down-toed (regardless whether or not you prefer 5.10 or Scarpa).

Currently:
5.10 Dragons - on the way out
5.10 Anasazi velcro - should have been thrown away months ago
5.10 Anasazi Velcro - different heel, different rubber (hence why I still have the oldies). DO NOT LIKE
5.10 Anasazi Verde's - they'll be a great routing boot when I can be bothered to break them in
5.10 Dragon - just the one as a keepsake from a traumatic night, ironically they were my lucky shoes.
Evolv predators - rotting in the cupboard
Boreal Stingers - f*cked, jerry had a pair in a picture so they're staying!
Scarpa LLE - f*cked, bagged out and they were only good for about a week in font, they dyed my feet red

I 'think' that's it. Despite the first two on the list I don't really have any that I like a lot.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Mike Tyson on March 05, 2009, 11:50:52 pm
Hmmm, I have only 3 pairs so I guess i'm in the minority!!

1 pair of Venoms in great nick for being over 4 years old.
1 pair of Corona Velcro's for the wall.
1 pair of Vipers (I think) that I have for emergencies.

That's it!
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Andy F on March 06, 2009, 08:23:36 am
Only the 3 in use for me:

5.10 pinks for routes
5.10 blue slipper for training
5.10 velcro's (nearly trashed) for stuff I can't do in the blues when training/occasionally on the grit.

Loads of stuff in the loft (various scarpa's/5.10's)

Thinking of some Scarpa boosters as there going cheap atm.

Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Duma on March 06, 2009, 10:42:17 am
Am I seriously the only person on this board who doesn't feel the need to have different shoes for every day of the week?

No, I'm with you nik - only ever use more than one when I'm breaking in a new pair. I do have a box of knackered pairs for DWS in the cupboard though.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: nik at work on March 06, 2009, 07:14:45 pm
At last an island of reason in this sea of consumer excess.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: dontfollowme on March 06, 2009, 09:34:18 pm
I've had to talk myself out of buying a pair of these bargain Stix when I already have 3 pairs of climbing shoes  :whistle:
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: SA Chris on March 06, 2009, 09:53:57 pm
PS out of interest, does everyone wear out the same foot first? My right foot always goes through first, wonder if it's the bigger foot, or if I just put more weight on it?
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: robertostallioni on March 06, 2009, 09:58:08 pm
Always. Left toe. Usual to have one foot bigger than the other. Apparently there was a medical/scientific review regarding shoe size and those that had a slightly bigger left foot in relation to their right were found to have sizably bigger penii. FACT. :-\
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: GCW on March 06, 2009, 10:00:08 pm
No, but...
My Pinks always wore out at the toe rubber first (actually, come to think of it the right boot did go first).
My first pair of Verdes has got holes in both boots over the great toe MTP joints (inside of foot).

Very odd  :shrug:
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: robertostallioni on March 06, 2009, 10:02:11 pm
See.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: GCW on March 06, 2009, 10:08:42 pm
See.

What?  Your right shoes always wear out first too?
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: robertostallioni on March 06, 2009, 10:40:57 pm
Found some photo examples from the Lancet (no doubt you'll be aware of the article GCW)


Gent with left foot slightly bigger...
don't click it for god sake (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Dhs0-1T9VXw/SEzR5bZ_C8I/AAAAAAAADI0/xJtzL_ARQ7U/s400/951.jpg)


Gentleman with right foot slightly bigger
Big right foot (http://a248.e.akamai.net/f/248/6129/1d/s7diod-isorigin.scene7.com/is/image/unitedretailgroup/0222971A_428?$product$)
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: GCW on March 06, 2009, 10:45:51 pm
Found some photo examples from the Lancet (no doubt you'll be aware of the article GCW)

The same one that had that photo of your feet?

(http://www.foothyperbook.com/images/lesserToes/asymmetricCavus1.jpg)
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: robertostallioni on March 06, 2009, 11:06:42 pm
Cheek. I took that shot in a mirror! These (http://members.frys.com/~orthofun/pictures/adv57t.jpg) are my feet now.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Zods Beard on March 06, 2009, 11:07:19 pm
There seems to be a worrying amount of people admitting to owning Mad Rocks and Red Chili's. This thread isn't titled dead shit shoes to go climbing in.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: GCW on March 06, 2009, 11:11:05 pm
I'm pleased you didn't include my frictionless resoled Fires in that comment.

A while back I thought I'd be a clever cunt and do a blue circuit in them (after the low friction resole), can't remember where.  Most of the problems were pretty highball, but on one it was a typical rounded Bleau top out and true to form my feet went skating.  The only way I didn't injure myself was because I jumped and grabbed a friend's hand.

1.  I think it's the most scared I've been when climbing
2.  I never wore those boots again.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: robertostallioni on March 06, 2009, 11:17:57 pm
Having never owned any MadRocks I'm not really in a position to comment. What is the Kangaroo Kourt Konsensus on the three Con- range (http://www.madrockclimbing.com/rockshoes.aspx)?
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: benj_d on March 06, 2009, 11:23:27 pm
Mad rock Frenzys- completely done in, big chunk of rubber missing from the toe, never worn anymore  :thumbsdown:

Anasazi Velcro- Stretched even though they arent meant to.. well worn so just used indoor

V10- Only for use on the rare occasion i decide to do something overhanging outdoor.  :lol:

Anasazi pinks- Just bought brand new, going to try and use them just outdoor.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: St Hubbins on March 07, 2009, 05:55:58 pm
Found some photo examples from the Lancet (no doubt you'll be aware of the article GCW)

The same one that had that photo of your feet?

(http://www.foothyperbook.com/images/lesserToes/asymmetricCavus1.jpg)


hobbit feet are those
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: GCW on March 08, 2009, 04:55:18 pm
This thread has made me dig out all my old shoes.  I'm extremely pleased to find out of the 4 knackered pairs of Pinks, I have a left and a right in good nick.  Bingo, a pair of Pinks  :thumbsup:
I've now chucked out 2 pairs of Pinks (one kept for the wall) and the Fires.

In all their glory (except the Vipers):

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Picture044.jpg)
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: mrjonathanr on March 08, 2009, 07:56:38 pm
I've had to talk myself out of buying a pair of these bargain Stix when I already have ....... pairs of climbing shoes  :whistle:

Ditto. You should note they only fit high arch/high volume feet otherwise rather baggy on top.
Current shoes, whilst on the theme: :guilty:
1x Scarpa Reflex for wall. Great shoe.
1x Boreal Stinger for wall, bit painful despite age (the shoes, not me - I hope)
Both of above very much on way out.
1x Pinks for grit, semi-broken in.
1x Scarpa Spectros, semi broken-in. Good for limestone I'm thinking.
Both bought half price, sucker for a bargain.
1x Scarpa Mago, not used yet, for steep summer limestone. Think they will be awesome and unlike Dragons, really comfortable. Yes! Despite the shoes being 1cm shorter than my feet, they feel as cosy as grandad's slippers - and they're not broken in. Go figure.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: webbo on March 08, 2009, 09:45:39 pm
What the fuck is wrong with you people?
1 pair of 5.10 green lace-ups, end of.

(although there are brief periods where I have two pairs as one dies off to be seamlessly replaced by a new pair)
i bet you've only got one pair of underpants as well.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: namnok on March 08, 2009, 10:54:40 pm
hi my name's steven and i'm a shoe hoarder.

in bag
1x dragons
1x large v10s for comfy downtoe shiz (only come out in blue moon)
1x tight v10s for extreme pain (may only come out in 'one last go' moments)
1x comfy tight v10 toe rubber down to rand
1x anasazi blue slippers should be wall shoes but have been neglected
1x evolv punters, general allrounder

in garage
2/3 pairs of blown blue slippers

the 5.10 projects look tempting, a replacement for the jet7s that "replaced" the v10s?
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 08, 2009, 11:43:36 pm
9 pairs....

2 pairs of velcros
1 white stazi
2 verdes
2 t-rocks
dragons
blue slippers

Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: andy_e on April 09, 2009, 01:10:41 pm
One pair Evolv Pontas for grit
One pair Mad Rock Hookers, yet to be able to put them on my feet, for steep stuff
One pair Scarpa Stix on their way.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Stubbs on April 09, 2009, 01:29:11 pm
In the sack:
- resoled Jet7's for warming up (resoled by rubber room in Bishop, amazing job)
- rubber top V10's that have gone a little too soft and now have a little hole in the left foot  :'(
- rubber top V10's at the perfect stage of wear which I am almost too scared to wear
- dragons well worn - what I wear most of the time for everything (including slabs)

At home:
- evolv predators - found them good on the lime but rubbish on grit, need to dig them out again for this season.
- broken in pinks - never really got on with them, always felt a bit clunky compared to dragons
- various knackered pairs of dragons and velcros for if I ever get round to a DWS trip

Nik: you should really get some Dragons, I think you'll notice the difference.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: (woz) on April 09, 2009, 01:44:52 pm
In the satch:
- womens anasazi velcro (old heel) for toe work.
- 2 pairs dragons for steep rock/heel hooks (different sizes)
- evolv pontas. like wearing a pair of used nappies on your feet (soft, warm, and not much friction)

At home:
- Boreal somethings (all black slippers). look dead cool, but shit. training boots.
- Scarpa dominators. The only boot that has ever fitted my mis-shaped heel. Special occasions.
- about 5 pairs anasazi velcros that i refuse to throw away.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Paul B on April 09, 2009, 02:43:45 pm
add two more pairs:

5.10 projects - wrong size
Dragons - right size so incredibly painful currently
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Oli on April 09, 2009, 03:22:13 pm
5.10 projects

Is that a final production pair or still a prototype?
If it's the former, have they actually bothered to put a decent heel on it?
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: dave on April 09, 2009, 03:26:06 pm
1x pair anasazi velcros new style, almost worn out - come out for soft smearing stuff only now. Shit shoes cos they ruined the deisng with "improved" heel which peeled apart from day 1, and too long and stiff faux-leatherette velcroid straps.

1x pair anasazi velcros old style, knackered but saving them for the superior heel for my bi-annual goes on brad pit. tighter than an italian waiter's trousers.

1x anasazi blue slippers, general comfy knockabout/warmup/soloing/non-specific problem boot. got em cheap in outside a while back, £40? bargain.

1x v10s, late "rubber on the top" model, now in their twilight years. done me at least 2 seasons of badass limestone shit including most of my hardest ticks. useful on grit for toehooking and tiptoe high-angle smearing. bit too tight for any length of time in winter though. paid about £50 for them.

1x dragons, middle of their life, fantasic boot. good for everything, bought them for about £55 when the planetfear shop closed. stiffer than the v10s so better for edgeing, toepokeing, can hold their own in toehooking and at present my best heelhooking boots. i didn't really need at the time I bought em, started taking them around to break in and ended up wearing em a lot when the v10 heels were wack etc. hence still loads of life in them despite being 2 years old. best 5:10 boot since they ruined the velcros.

1x scarpa paranoias. Indoor boot only. utter dogshit. had them about 6 years, they get more uncomfortable with age, the rubber is rock hard like a hockey puck. terrible design, shit colour scheme, stupid platic piping round the laces that cracks and falls off. great for footlessing. nearly died soloing millwheel wall in them. got them for free from the mountain of unsold pairs (despite being £20 in umpteen marquee sales) in the outside warehouse and I still feel like i was robbed. annoyingly now the trend for indoor walls is to plywood i can't ever imagine wearing them out. I only still wear them because A. i refuse to wear out decent boots indoors, B. its good training since everything feels 2 grades harder, and C. i'm a tight yorkshireman. my first and last pair of scarpas.


I generally carry 3-4 pairs around with me outside. as a result most pairs last me 2-3 years, so i don't have to go through the trauma of buying new ones that often. I feel i'm in for a shock next time i need to buy some and see the prices.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Nibile on April 10, 2009, 01:13:31 pm
bouldering:
anasazi velcro,
dragons,
jet 7,
solution.
gym:
eb hulk,
comfier jet 7.
mountain:
old anasazi velcro.
soon to come:
speedster,
project.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: tommytwotone on April 10, 2009, 02:10:55 pm
I generally carry 3-4 pairs around with me outside. as a result most pairs last me 2-3 years, so i don't have to go through the trauma of buying new ones that often. I feel i'm in for a shock next time i need to buy some and see the prices.

Know what you mean - now that I can't have my usual anasazi pink / velcro combo going on any more (went through my pinks last week, damn!), I had a quick look at Verdes / Whites as a replacement and got a shock. Eighty quid??

Currently investigating whether I can claim something from the state to cover the cost, as I'll be in town next week to sign on - anyone know if there's such a thing as '5.10 benefit'?
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: cruisie on April 10, 2009, 03:24:17 pm
hi just had a look at the 5 10 projects, they sound and look  good can you get them in the uk yet can only seem to find them on us websites
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Will Hunt on April 10, 2009, 05:37:22 pm
campussing.
:rtfm:  :spank:

What happened to "Check your technique at the door..."
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: robertostallioni on April 10, 2009, 08:36:24 pm
Will, i believe the quote should be
Quote
foot-on campooosing

I'll start at the beginning. Wouldn't it be great if you could separate your climbing into training, focusing on fatiguing the body, and performance, where you go "all french"  and utilise all that crushing power along with harnessed continental technique.

You need one of these, Will.

The french switch
(http://cn1.kaboodle.com/hi/img/2/0/0/21/9/AAAAAhmOGvcAAAAAACGS8g.jpg)

My shed is a shrine to my 'pipes'. I keep my footwear simple yet trustworthy. On the foot on campussing board the  drill is so simple you can go much deeper into the forearm pump than with other shampoo's.

Proviso
I also use my shed for steep climbing technique so ignore all the above
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: sheffieldpasserby on April 12, 2009, 02:31:43 am
OK guys, I didn't want to start a fuss and start a new thread, so thought I'd just crash here, as it's vaguely related....

Basically I need your help/recommendation/opinion:

Scarpa Veloce http://www.rockrun.com/products-Veloce-LV_FT-RB-VELV.htm (http://www.rockrun.com/products-Veloce-LV_FT-RB-VELV.htm)
or
Scarpa Sphinx http://www.rockrun.com/products-Sphinx-LV_FT-RB-SPXL.htm (http://www.rockrun.com/products-Sphinx-LV_FT-RB-SPXL.htm) [Has arched sole]

I've not a clue whether arched sole would be good or not, or whether it would not do my feet any favours.  I like to get my feet into the crannies.
I tried going to the shops but there weren't any Sphinxs to try. 

Reviews/advice/experience would be greatly appreciated  ;D, thank you   :great:

Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: slackline on April 12, 2009, 09:28:02 am

I've not a clue whether arched sole would be good or not, or whether it would not do my feet any favours.  I like to get my feet into the crannies.
I tried going to the shops but there weren't any Sphinxs to try. 

Reviews/advice/experience would be greatly appreciated  ;D, thank you   :great:



Arched soles tend to aid in forcing you to point your toes and as such are useful on steep roofs or anywhere else you toe-hook lots.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Will Hunt on April 12, 2009, 12:28:45 pm
Aggressive arches like that do what slackers said. Don't expect to get much smearing out of them. Better used on steep ground. I hear that for hooking and locking into pockets and small holds on overhanging ground the arch is the way to go and it's like having hands on your feet.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: milatchi on April 13, 2009, 01:32:33 am
What the fuck is wrong with you people?

We've been feminised.

A pair of old BOREAL Ballets.
Soon I'm going to buy another pair BOREAL's for bouldering.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: milatchi on April 13, 2009, 01:44:44 am
dig out my special box from the attic wherein I found pairs of top quality rock boots including Boreal Fires
Not to double post,
but could you post a picture of the BOREAL Fire? I've heard them mentioned a lot but never actually seen them.
If you can, thanks.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: mrjonathanr on April 13, 2009, 07:58:39 pm
Milatchi: Jerry's biog has pics of Fires, sort of beige with red sticker on ankle.
Sheffieldpasserby: as the Sphinx is the lady Spectro, I'm not convinced they'll have an especially strong curve in the arch. They look wild, but the Spectro settles into an essentially flat edging shoe with a spring in it's step. Not used mine much, but think they're decent.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: cofe on April 13, 2009, 10:13:10 pm
just found this pic of fires on 'google':

(http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/1140/borealsidexi4.th.jpg)
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: tommytwotone on April 14, 2009, 01:02:45 pm
Word, I note with interest that the Foundry shop has some Projects in, though sadly not in my size...anyone had a try of these yet, any good?

Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Fultonius on April 16, 2009, 01:18:52 pm
Even if the Projects are amazing, do you really want a shoe with half the normal amount of rubber - not going to last long!
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: dave on April 16, 2009, 01:22:51 pm
chances are if fiveten's normal build quality is anything to go by then the rubber wearing through is unlikely to happen before they fall apart anyway!
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: Fultonius on April 16, 2009, 01:59:19 pm
 :lol:

I feel like I'm doing something wrong, as I only own 1 pair of wearable greens (brand new), 1 pair of unwearable worn-out greens, 1 pair of unwearable worn out velcros and a really rubbish pair of scarpas that I bought for trad but are so rubbish I just can't wear them.

In fact, they're so rubbish I've climbed harder in approach shoes!

Should I start buying?
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: TomP on April 16, 2009, 02:20:05 pm
Think I must have about 15 usable pairs and 10 with small holes in the toes which can still be used. Just can't bare to throw them away. Try to give some away but for some reason no one wants a rancid pair of tattered climbing shoes. Never know when they may come in useful. To be honest it's not a good thing to have loads in the house as the stench spreads everywhere, not attractive to the opposite sex needless to say.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: andy_e on April 17, 2009, 10:43:23 am
You don't count; you get yours for free. Now stop posting on here and go and enjoy font you lucky sod.  :spank:
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 17, 2009, 02:01:43 pm
dig out my special box from the attic wherein I found pairs of top quality rock boots including Boreal Fires
Not to double post,
but could you post a picture of the BOREAL Fire? I've heard them mentioned a lot but never actually seen them.
If you can, thanks.

see them in action

http://www.vimeo.com/1938189 (http://www.vimeo.com/1938189)
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: mrjonathanr on April 17, 2009, 09:45:57 pm
They look alot like 'Ballets' to me .
Now THIS is a Fire:
http://www.paracaidismopirineos.com/images/Riglos%2004.JPG (http://www.paracaidismopirineos.com/images/Riglos%2004.JPG)ftp://
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: andy_e on April 18, 2009, 02:13:17 pm
Um, no, that's Riglos...
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: mrjonathanr on April 18, 2009, 07:20:09 pm
Um, no, that's Riglos...
Correct. The Mallo de Fire is the biggest (roughly central) tower. Which is where Boreal got the name from, no?
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: andy_e on April 19, 2009, 03:13:02 pm
Alright smartypants  :P
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: chillax on April 24, 2009, 10:21:23 pm
Just ordered a pair of Anasazi V2's. My greens are nearly knackered so I may have to get another pair while waiting for the whites to arrive. Also severely tempted to get a pair of velcros from a place in dublin that still has stock with the old heel.

Addiction? I think so.  :)
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 24, 2009, 11:46:59 pm
They look alot like 'Ballets' to me .

I thought these (http://jknujknu1.googlepages.com/ceuzesmall.JPG) were ballets?
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: mrjonathanr on April 25, 2009, 10:57:21 am
They were, but a subsequent model if memory serves me correctly. As I only owned the Fire original, I may be mistaken, but don't think so. The ballet changed the Fire design by having a narrower toe with more lacing at that point and a heel cup which forced the toes forward, the first shoe to do so as far as I am aware - cf your video. Seem to remember Dave Humberstone turning up at Malham one day and us Scousers being quite impressed by the new-fangled Fire. As this recollection is 23 years old now, it's probably as sketchy as my footwork.
Title: Re: Climbing shoe addiction?
Post by: craic-head on July 18, 2009, 07:20:07 pm
Got 4 pairs at the mo-
-Evolve Defy. My first pair of Evolve and I'm pretty happy with them. May buy some more at some point.
-Boreal Spiders. Pretty crap, quite clumpy and not good for precision (I wish) but they do for general mileage purposes.
-Boreal Ninja slippers. Old school but I remember seeing pics of Moffat and so on wearing these so they'll do a punter like me.... I got them for 20 nicker off ebay brand new.
-Boreal Lazers (original pink ones)! Haven't used these at all yet. They still have the size sticker and the Boreal logo printed on the sole. Brand spanking, again 20 quid off ebay. Not sure if I will ever use them. Anybody ever framed a pair of stickies?!
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