UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Will Hunt on February 10, 2009, 03:34:31 pm
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I am nearing the end of Jerry's book. I am psyched to get training and to do more sport and bouldering. However, I'm probably not going to be climbing till spring ( :wall: :wall: :wall:) so when I get back I'm going to be piss weak(er than before).
I have decided to use the time in between constructively and become a beast. However I have no idea how to go about training to really produce results. I need help esp. with what exercises to do, how long to do them for etc.
I have access to a small woody, a Metolius simulator, occasional access to a moon fingerboard, and all the climbing facilities in Leeds (i.e. Henry Price, Leeds Wall, Citybloc etc). Also have a broken leg which is a slight hinderance. Before December I was climbing fine. Underperforming on steep stuff. Probably around V4 comfortably but have previously climbed something closer to V6/(V7?) so know I have much more potential.
Any of the Leeds crew looking for a protégé?
Time and effort not an issue, results only.
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Carrying the Metolius simulator to the bin should be good excersise for a start.
whatever you do, don't wade-in balls deep and get injured, work up gradually.
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I was petrified that whilst being broken and unable to climb, I'd get piss weak and loose everything I'd put a great amount of effort into over the previous years. Thankfully, this wasn't the case. If I was you I wouldn't get too stressed about not training whilst you're injured do what you can perhaps, deadhanging looks like the obvious direction to go if you're mobile enough. The time will soon pass and then I'll warrant it won't even be your fingers/arms holding you back, it'll be your leg and your head. By the time that period has passed you'll be back up to full strength.
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I was kind of thinking along those lines, Dave. Don't know if I can justify the cost of something new though. The Beastmaker looks good.
The thing is is that I've always wanted to improve but have never had sufficient psyche to get in some serious training. I see this as my opportunity to get stronger, realise that training can be fun and fuel further psyche. However, I don't want to faff about with shite exercises for 4 months and find that it's done fuck all.
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Ditching the V grades would be a good start too.
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you don't have to buy owt new, just from what i've seen on the metolius boards, "nothing" is an upgrade on them!
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Lots of pullups.. and weights followed by some weightgain 4000 and you can look like my hero
(http://www.posterville.com/library/eric_cartman_beefcake.jpg)
:whistle:
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Get a (http://www.powerballs.com.au/images/imagecache/green_powerball_top_web.jpg) and some pr0n
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The Metolius boards are an acceptable training tool IMO, it's just that they're made with quite rough texture so do get a bit painful after a while, and the smallest set of holds could do with being a bit rounded at the bottom.
I reckon the fingerboard plus the beastmaker 3.2.1 exercises http://beastmaker.co.uk/Grip-article.htm (http://beastmaker.co.uk/Grip-article.htm) are a good way to start, just take it steady to start with!
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Get a (http://www.powerballs.com.au/images/imagecache/green_powerball_top_web.jpg) and some pr0n
...and don't forget to alternate hands.
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The thing is is that I've always wanted to improve but have never had sufficient psyche to get in some serious training.
The two statements:
"I've always wanted to imrpove"
&
"never had sufficient psych"
...simply don't go together. Nobody is going to make you a beast apart from yourself. Regardless of what anyone recommends on here, if you don't actually put it into practice its not going to happen.
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The great two J's (Jerry & Johnny) indulged in some footless roof section bouldering. Do you have access to a relatively low garage ceiling or suchlike?
Why not pin some revision notes or work notes to a wall in front of you when indulging in those long winter months? Learn-clockwatch-learn has to be a winner.
I'm taking it to the next level by moving in with "walking fingers" Donnelly. There has to be a walking tendon in your area code you could shack up with!?
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Dave, the Simulator may not be the best board in the world, but you can still get benefits if you use it correctly (ie ignore the Metolius routines).
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I'm taking it to the next level by moving in with "walking fingers" Donnelly. There has to be a walking tendon in your area code you could shack up with!?
that just sounds wrong!
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press ups,
pull ups,
yoga ball thing for press ups,
exercise wheel.
i try to do most of these daily now, mainly press ups to stop my bloody shoulders going like a coathanger. but general fitness improved for me, along with a few sessions of tennis a week but with a fucked leg not much for running eh?
if all else fails......
get a wheelchair and try plow up some hills!
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if all else fails......
get a wheelchair and try plow up some hills!
This was the strategy I took when I fractured my calcanium and was on crutches for four weeks. Stumbling from pub to pub on one foot and two crutches certainly helped maintain the upper body strength, but may have been detrimental to my waist-line :devangel:
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This was the strategy I took when I fractured my calcanium and was on crutches for four weeks. Stumbling from pub to pub on one foot and two crutches
:lol: Did my fair share of this over the weekend. £100 tab put down at the bar courtesy of our host plus fuck knows where £40 went from my wallet equals me still picking thorns from my coat as I went into so many bushes on the way home :beer2:
I think I might have been carried in the end :-[