got one rather smarmy email off one person (who clearly doesn't know much about cordiality and preserving their place in a queue) and thats it,
i wish someone would make a training device where, when stood under it you can see exactly what your bad at and areas of weakness which need addressed
I think the pictures speak for themselves really all I will say is; I was impressed with the Moon fingerboard when that came out, this blows it out of the water!
I see the new cameras working pretty well too.
How much do they cost?
shit martin does this mean you are going to train?????? :whistle:
In the meantime, here's a photo of mine to keep you going! :thumbsup::furious: >:(
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3252/3334334173_fc1b626501.jpg?v=0)
How's that board suspended? Is it being hung from a pull-up bar?
In the meantime, here's a photo of mine to keep you going! :thumbsup:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3252/3334334173_fc1b626501.jpg?v=0)
In the meantime, here's a photo of mine to keep you going! :thumbsup:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3252/3334334173_fc1b626501.jpg?v=0)
I had a wee feel at one in The Works the other week and was very impressed. They look and feel great. :thumbsup:
Sadly, I didn't actually do any fancy training on it due to being inappropriately dressed at the time. Next time I get my hands on one I will obviously do some serious crushing. 8)
It was at night, we'd just popped in for a look, leggings are more day wear. And I was wearing boots, just not welly boots. ;)
So you don't just plug it into a lightning conductor, insert your fingers into the monos, wait for a lightning strike and hey presto beast!?
Having used the one at The Works to warm up on a few times I must say that I agree with what everyone else is saying. The major plus with these boards is that they are so untweaky. Every hold feels as if you can pull as hard as you like on it without risking something snapping (unless your name is Paul B). The Beastmaker is a lovely piece of design and workmanship.
In the meantime, here's a photo of mine to keep you going! :thumbsup:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3252/3334334173_fc1b626501.jpg?v=0)
Marty, when did you order your beastmaker?
I ordered mine towards the end of March and was wondering how close they are to shipping mine.
Cheers
So far, Ru Davies has 1 armed the small pockets on the bottom rung, effort Ru!
Lots of people have 1 armed the bottom rung as a drag or crimp.
Ned's mate Rich has 1 armed the 1 pad mono on the bottom rung! BEAST!
and Keith has transferred from the slopey pockets to the 45degree slopers and held the swing, no tricks, its just brick. Effort Bradbury!
the 35degree sloper has been 1 armed a fair bit too.
(i'll be creating a far better records page in coming weeks which people can upload record claims themselves)
Secondly is mine the first beastmaker to wing it's way to the deepest darkest depths of East Anglia?!
adam are you aware that a 12 year old girl received 70% burns from a sunbed?
What is the general consensus from people who have 2000series these then?
I.E. is everyone with a 2000series on here happy with them/ getting sufficient use out of them?
any decent critical feedback positive or negative will be much appreciated,
I.E have they warped at all? (we thicknessed the back to try and negate this as much as possible)
Are the top crimpy slots too big/ out of sync with the board grade?
has anyone used the 1000series prototype at the works and found it too be good/ crap? is it a good transition into the 2000?
Crucially has anyone actually got any stronger/ noticed gains? (or is mine and Ned's board just magic)
also if anyone has any questions about how to get the most use out of their boards i'll try and answer them as best as possible
If anyone has problems mounting them (ooh suit you sir) i'll write an article with all the different ways you can mount your beastmaker (ooh matron)
I have Pm'ed Bubba with a bribe as i'd rather not SPAM SPAM SPAM SPAM, its just this is probably the best place to gather thoughts on the boards.
forgot to mention that while I was using it, improvement on Back 2 and Mid 2 was very rapid. I went from barely being able to hang on my back 2 on the biggest slots to just about managing a full set of repeaters in about 4 weeks.
crimping mainly being digitorum sublimis
open handing being digitorum profundus
The FDP-to-FDS tendon-force ratio was 1.75:1 in the crimp grip and 0.88:1 in the slope grip.
The forces acting on the pulleys were 36 times lower for A2 in the slope grip than in the crimp grip.
when you use a mono what is the max amount of muscle you can recruit
How do you fill a board with beer?
What this thread needs is more SCIENCE, what top end climbing training needs is more science.
I hadn't read that study, in fact this is only something i have begun to think about as a way of training recently, rather than it being the result of training.
I've been trying for ages to find one into passive recruitment and the different areas of FDS & FDP which contract when using pockets/monos e.g. when you use a mono what is the max amount of muscle you can recruit? actively along the main tendon, as well as passively through the other tendons.
any thoughts Serpico GCW?
How do you fill a board with beer?
They do a complete range of boards for home brewing and fine dining: The YeastMaker and The FeastMaker.
What this thread needs is more SCIENCE, what top end climbing training needs is more science.
What this thread needs is more SCIENCE, what top end climbing training needs is more science.
More SCIENCE:
http://www.turntillburn.ch/cms/ttb/fileadmin/website/images/pub/ansc/a2_pulley_biomechanics.pdf (http://www.turntillburn.ch/cms/ttb/fileadmin/website/images/pub/ansc/a2_pulley_biomechanics.pdf)
http://www.turntillburn.ch/cms/ttb/fileadmin/website/images/pub/ansc/a2_pulley_friction.pdf (http://www.turntillburn.ch/cms/ttb/fileadmin/website/images/pub/ansc/a2_pulley_friction.pdf)
http://www.turntillburn.ch/cms/ttb/fileadmin/website/images/pub/ansc/lumbricals.pdf (http://www.turntillburn.ch/cms/ttb/fileadmin/website/images/pub/ansc/lumbricals.pdf)
Serpico, what do you think of that 'turntillburn' thing, as a training aid? (apologies for thread-drift!)
he has the board hanging at just less than vertical so that when you hang, the flex/stretch/creak brings it to just vertical.
Although I'm not sure he has done this deliberately - that would be quite a lot of forethought for someone so blonde.
Also, I have never said thanks for the :goodidea: Lagers. So... THANKYOU! :great:
9 sessions in 3 months? Without knowing more about your climbing/training patterns it sounds to me like your not doing enough volume on the finger board to see progression?
is a little bit of everything the main factor here? Gains are going to be very slow if you're doing so many different things. Some of which no doubt hinders recovery and progression in others. Hasn't it always been suggested to prioritise deadhanging in periods?
9 sessions in 3 months? Without knowing more about your climbing/training patterns it sounds to me like your not doing enough volume on the finger board to see progression?
Counting it up 10 fingerboard sessions in 10 weeks - so about once a week as part of a mixed bag of systems training, outdoor redpointing, indoor bouldering and a little campusing. The fingerboarding is the only activity where I havent seen gains. I expected to be a able to have completed all the sets and making it more difficult by now rather than being stuck at the same number of reps. Would you not expect to make gains if you did it once a week (as part of a bunch of other stuff) ?
Assuming 'repeaters' are a kind of lower end power endurance exercise there's that one. I've read that the jury is out on the merits of that exercise compared with the regime advocated by Goddard and Neumann, 25-40 second hangs to failure followed by up to a minute rest, repeated 12 times or so. Anyone got any experience of the effectiveness of either, or should I just settle for using the board to train strength and try to gain some endurance as best I can at a wall / through climbing?
I can't be arsed to read 8 pages)
Has anyone got/had metolius simulator and bought a beastmaker?
How much better is it really? Are the slopers that delicious?
The slopers are awesome, but I am really stuggling to hang the second set; The third set ... forget it . :'(
Has anyone got/had metolius simulator and bought a beastmaker?
How much better is it really? Are the slopers that delicious?
(Sorry if its been brought up already but search didn't flag it, and I can't be arsed to read 8 pages)
(http://news.climbnewcastle.com/uploads/beastmaker.jpg)
Yeah man, just found this pic. I'm ordering one!
Re one arm hangs talking again to Serpico it may be a weakness in the shoulder rather than the fingers that requires work. He went from struggling to one arm a first joint edge to comfortably doing it for 7 seconds following various dumbell exercises.
Simon - I've done a couple of hour long sessions early morning before work and then gone climbing in the evening feeling recovered.
With regard to one armed hangs I can scarcely do them on on second joint edges
but when alls said and done you do have weak fingers
i'm a big cock
There is a little trick to making one arm hangs a lot easier. If you engage the shoulder muscles as if you are trying to pull the opposite free shoulder up into a horizontal position prior to hanging the egde you should find the hang much easier. I would try this slowly though by easing the feet off the floor as it may well depend on your shoulder strength. ;D
i've got a big cock
There is a little trick to making one arm hangs a lot easier. If you engage the shoulder muscles as if you are trying to pull the opposite free shoulder up into a horizontal position prior to hanging the egde you should find the hang much easier. I would try this slowly though by easing the feet off the floor as it may well depend on your shoulder strength. ;D
There is a little trick to making one arm hangs a lot easier. If you engage the shoulder muscles as if you are trying to pull the opposite free shoulder up into a horizontal position prior to hanging the egde you should find the hang much easier. I would try this slowly though by easing the feet off the floor as it may well depend on your shoulder strength. ;DAdam: I didn't realise you'd let your shoulders wither away ;-)
I'm at the 7a/7a+ end of the 7a-7c climbers that the board is aimed at and can only do hangs and repeaters on the big slots, 20 deg slopers, big pockets and a combination of the little edges/bigger edge on the bottom row.
My board is mounted in an arch at home and there's a step 2ft back that I can use to take off a little weight with my toes on both or one foot so I'm using this assistance to do hangs and repeaters on the 35 degree slopers, back 2 fingers in pockets and small edges and have noticed gains in a week on these holds.
I'm finding a stopwatch, detailed notes and sticking to the same regime really useful to gauge progress. The board itself is brilliant and very easy on the fingers if you use it right.
I also reckon a major step forward is in the experimenting that Dan and Ned have done on different grip types and how to train. It sounds a bit daft but based on what I've done so far I just know that I'm going to get better at climbing over the next year because of the way the board and the training is structured and that is a big motivator.
Simon - I've done a couple of hour long sessions early morning before work and then gone climbing in the evening feeling recovered.
What does it all mean?
What does it all mean?
It means that fingerboarding isn't the be all and end all in climbing.
Do you rate Swissballs serpico?
They've always seemed like a bit of a gimmick to me in the way they're generally used. If you're doing Chest press then that should be the focus, not secondary core work?
Do you rate Swissballs serpico?
They've always seemed like a bit of a gimmick to me in the way they're generally used. If you're doing Chest press then that should be the focus, not secondary core work?
There is a little trick to making one arm hangs a lot easier. If you engage the shoulder muscles as if you are trying to pull the opposite free shoulder up into a horizontal position prior to hanging the egde you should find the hang much easier. I would try this slowly though by easing the feet off the floor as it may well depend on your shoulder strength. ;D
There is a little trick to making one arm hangs a lot easier. If you engage the shoulder muscles as if you are trying to pull the opposite free shoulder up into a horizontal position prior to hanging the egde you should find the hang much easier. I would try this slowly though by easing the feet off the floor as it may well depend on your shoulder strength. ;D
Are you able to explain this any differently, as I am having trouble trying to picture this, mind you, would struggle to hang 16.3 stone on anything :'(
DB Bent over rows (arms out to side - squeezing shoulder blades together) or Hanging rows
Feet or hands on the swiss ball for the pressups Serpico? )
DB Bent over rows (arms out to side - squeezing shoulder blades together) or Hanging rows
Perhaps you can shed some light here.
My physio is advising me that my rotator cuff(RC) problem is that my shoulder blades are 'winging'.
That is to say (as I understand it) that rather than sitting where they should they are rotated
so that the edge nearest the spine is too far back & the other edge is too far forward.
She also says that this is a very common problem among climbers
& she has told me to do RC work with my shoulder blades apart.
On th other hand whenever you read about this stuff it says the same as you (ie squeeze them together). :shrug:
Any thoughts are welcome.
Stick with your physio's advice, they've examined you and know the specifics of your particular condition.
Definitely not a gimmick, just go into any hospital physio therapy dept.
Feet or hands on the swiss ball for the pressups Serpico? Or feet on one and hands on another ;)
Definitely not a gimmick, just go into any hospital physio therapy dept.
Cool, I didn't realise your shoulder stuff was for rehab/physio recommended...
I'd just like to say thank to Dan etc for the swift delivery of my beastmaker it's up and I'm going to nail myself to the 45 degree slopers as this is probably the easiest way to hang them. :-\
I'm at the 7a/7a+ end of the 7a-7c climbers that the board is aimed at and can only do hangs and repeaters on the big slots, 20 deg slopers, big pockets and a combination of the little edges/bigger edge on the bottom row.
Having hung off several beastmakers now, comparison between different beastmakers seems a bit pointless as they seem to vary so much. Not sure if this is down to amount of use/grain in wood/amount of brushing or what, but I've found a variation from barely being able to hang 35s to being able to hang the 45s for 15 seconds quite easily,
It was indeed, and for once i have video evidence ::) Although it could hardly be called interesting. It was on the right hand mill board will try the left next time, and then will go to mr super furry monkey's house. :goodidea:
Is your house something of a soft touch then is it? Expect the hoardes to come flocking!Mine is a hardcore homo erotic training palace (hopefully this will put Nodders off coming round and showing me up :whistle:) actually made some progress on the 45's in the last hour by hanging on 35's with 20kg hanging between my legs! ;D
Mine is a hardcore homo erotic training palace
Mine is a hardcore homo erotic training palace
Is that why you had Crouch over for a few days then is it!? Thought it was weird he was unable to speak any longer when he got back from that weekend.
Where's everyone at with the two finger slopers ?on my arse, on the floor
Where's everyone at with the two finger slopers ?
Been trying to double off them to the 35's in vain, battling with violent grease off this week due to the weather or something :whistle:
Will you ever see daylight again?
But I swear this muggy weather is making it easier
Yeah, just play about on it and hope for the best and don't bother reading the masses of useful information on their site is probably best. 8)I actually read through all of their advice on training methods prior to ordering my board, I was wondering more what people thought with regards to how best to structure the training, you will notice if you have a hunt about on the Blog that Dan Varian comments on how missed deadlines with regards to recovery only serve to antagonise. Maybe the same applies to training?
btw all the people that hold the 45s at the works with your fingers over the top and then loudly declare how piss they are aren't really doing anything useful apart from working my core
Find i cant hang the 45s on my beastmaker or even get anywhere close to hanging them.
- i've checked its verticaly hung.
However, went to the WestWay wall and was able to hang theirs no problem. Do Beastmakers improve with age/differ widey, or is it more likely that the WWys board is not hung correctly.
Wasnt a conditions thing either.
<stupid question alert> thinking about getting a beastmaker but the only place I can put it is in the kitchen above the doorway. do peeps reckon it will be ok with steam and shit? don't want to be slipping off it 25 hours a day.
<stupid question alert> thinking about getting a beastmaker but the only place I can put it is in the kitchen above the doorway. do peeps reckon it will be ok with steam and shit? don't want to be slipping off it 25 hours a day.
<stupid question alert> thinking about getting a beastmaker but the only place I can put it is in the kitchen above the doorway. do peeps reckon it will be ok with steam and shit? don't want to be slipping off it 25 hours a day.
You got a 25 hour steam room in yer kitchen, strange.
did you check westways was also plumb vertical?
<stupid question alert> thinking about getting a beastmaker but the only place I can put it is in the kitchen above the doorway. do peeps reckon it will be ok with steam and shit? don't want to be slipping off it 25 hours a day.
You got a 25 hour steam room in yer kitchen, strange.
you'd love it word. proper stark bollock naked steam room homme scene.
For the rawplugs and screws id err on the side of caution i used 4 mil rawplugs i weigh 9st12 and it didnt survive 1 session so go beefy
For the rawplugs and screws id err on the side of caution i used 4 mil rawplugs i weigh 9st12 and it didnt survive 1 session so go beefy
I probably went OTT when I put up my fingerboard but I put attached the board & a campus rung to an 18mm ply panel and then attached the ply panel to the brickwork with an 8mm diameter expansion bolt in each corner.
Hasn't fallen down yet... ;)
The door has a surround that is 1 inch deep so my beastmaker sits flush with it when placed above it. I figured this wasn't going to be perfect as the surround will get in the way when I'm using the board.
Mine arrived this morning :thumbsup:
Going have to be a bit creative in mounting it as I'm in campus digs and they don't take too kindly to folk drilling into the walls. I'm thinking an 8 foot A-frame made out of 2x2 might do the trick. Anyone tried something similar or have any advice?
Oh yeah, does it come with the training suggestions printed out?
Just trying to save on paper.
ta..
5. anyone found a cheap BIG clock in a supermarket with a large secondhand? I cant see solo sessions with a stop watch not working out.
I used audacity, a simple recording application for mac, and made a click-track and recorded myself counting out the reps....
Tomtom if you can get to the depot when you're in/near Leeds we've got a 2000 at the Depot you could have a pull on and see what you think. The 1000 still has some pretty small holds on with the befefit of some comfy jugs for warming up
BTW, can anyone tell me what a "french pull-up" is
Sounds like you'd benefit from less standing around and chatting ;)
I was using mine on my rest days
I was using mine on my rest days
I like that, training on a rest day, genius ;)
I was using mine on my rest days
I like that, training on a rest day, genius ;)
Let the Moffatt speak: "[John] Bachar […] taught me the importance of rest days. You can take it for granted that people will train; it's when and how much they rest that's variable. Too much training is as bad as not enough."
I'm doing the same, its seems to be working for me too! Maybe this rest day malarkey is overrated :thumbsup:
The Moffatt:" [John] Bachar […] taught me the importance of rest days. You can take it for granted that peo¬ple will train; it's when and how much they rest that's variable. Too much training is as bad as not enough."
The Moffatt:" [John] Bachar […] taught me the importance of rest days. You can take it for granted that peo¬ple will train; it's when and how much they rest that's variable. Too much training is as bad as not enough."
I refer you to Patxi Usobiaga's training regime. 2500 moves a day, 7 days a week for 3 months. Rest days are for the weak!
Waddage if someone can identify and android app that does the same.
Waddage if someone can identify and android app that does the same.
I'd wad myself but a) I can't and b) it wasn't very difficult as it's called the same as the iphone app!
Android folks can just do a search on the market place for 'round timer'. It's the first result. It's $0.99 but i figure it's worth it.
5. anyone found a cheap BIG clock in a supermarket with a large secondhand? I cant see solo sessions with a stop watch not working out.
I manage ok with a clock on the wall with a second hand, or the free stopwatch on my Android to be honest, counting helps take my mind off the forearm burn!
Your order from beastmaker.co.uk has shipped
Going to break my long term lurking to share this timer, which is great if you can see your computer screenbtw this may be a slackers linux question but does this timer beep for anyone else, it doesn't on my linux box and I don't have windows/other OS to test it.
http://www.speedbagforum.com/timer (http://www.speedbagforum.com/timer)
not sure if anyone else has suggested it but I use a metronome set to 60 beats per minute....
quick showslow rythmic wave of hands everyone who owns a metronome? ;)
quick showslow rythmic wave of hands everyone who owns a metronome? ;)
For 2 (and 3) finger pockets, is it better to curl non used fingers under or point them up straight?for me straight up - chafe my knuckles if I curl them under :(
Or does it make no difference?
For 2 (and 3) finger pockets, is it better to curl non used fingers under or point them up straight?
Or does it make no difference?
I have a metro sexual gnome is that any good?
we all do (http://www.metronomeonline.com/) ;Dquick showslow rythmic wave of hands everyone who owns a metronome? ;)
:wave:
last week i started doing some repeaters and had some problems focusing on the stopwatch hanging bellow the board while doing it.
i´ve seen some messages in this thread related to stopwatch applications, but none seemed adequate for the program i´m following.
so i decided to do an alarm type of application that beeps every second and that you can setup with the number of seconds ( active, rest, rest between series ) and number of series and reps. today i did my first session with it and was ok.
if anyone has a mobile phone that runs java ( i have an old nokia 6233 :P ) and is looking for something similar will send you the jar file.
I believe the italian fix method is used in the production of Fiats?
I believe the italian fix method is used in the production of Fiats?exactly, with seven screws they make two complete cars.
A quick search suggests that no one has mentioned the GymBoss timer:
http://www.gymboss.com/ (http://www.gymboss.com/)
Perfect for repeaters and whatnot.
A quick search suggests that no one has mentioned the GymBoss timer:
http://www.gymboss.com/ (http://www.gymboss.com/)
Perfect for repeaters and whatnot.
Sorry, was mentioned several pages back ;)
Sorry, was mentioned several pages back ;)
or how about www.ratemybody.com (http://www.ratemybody.com) ?
(a genuine site, possbily NSFW, blocked at my work anyway, but so are most things).
maybe all 36 yr olds do but wait 2 yrs then we'll see
i've not fingerboarded for 8 mths, again another popular myth
pretty solid yes. encores coming on well on the 2's. I haven't really tried the big monos much, I aways seem to be slipping out of them. Are they supposed to be easier?! :kiss2:
The sandpaper... On my skin mainly, I have a lot of thick skin around the top joint crease which is gets mangled when I hang, particularly on the front 2. Thinning it down seems to help it splitting open and generally reduce pain.
How about just busting out 3 sets of 10 seconds until your skin gets used to it? (without taking weight off)
Just to clarify. Splitting skin - yes it hurts. sandpaper to help avoid splitting
on the matter...
the beastmaker simply works.
it fucking works.
it fucking fucking works.
YYFY.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4816148028_1829dfb5d2.jpg)
come on Nibs, make an effort, no straight arms no tick ;)sad but true krank, sad but true.
they don't ave any holds for less fingers
they don't ave any holds for less fingers
Has anyone found that a BM session actually helps tweaks in hands etc? I had some pain across the back of my hand for about a week and a half; hurt when doing pressups or mantles etc. Gave it a week of rest, short beastmaker session last night, and feels much betteer today.
£5 bargain. Much cheaper than lagerfish enterprises for similar services.
How much do you charge for handjobs? he does them for a tenner and a bag of chips.
could you please stop talking about handjobs between males while eating chips, after my video? it makes me VERY uncomfortable.
:yes:
could you please stop talking about handjobs between males while eating chips, after my video? it makes me VERY uncomfortable.
:yes:
Hmmm... I'd assumed they'd have saved the chips for after, surely it would put you off your stroke otherwise?
fair question Grem!
the answer I could give is that it would have been too boring to watch also the left one, the true reason is that my left arm is so much weaker than the right that it's definitely not worth.
it's between 1/3 and 1/2 of my right arm power, depending on the exercise.
This is why you need Largers on the handjobs :P
What does anyone else do in terms of motivation to get on it in the first place and then stick with it ?
it doesn't really take too much effort.
You mean beat it by more reps, longer hangs etc ?What does anyone else do in terms of motivation to get on it in the first place and then stick with it ?
Write down what you did. Beat it next time. And repeat
That's what she said..... :Pit doesn't really take too much effort.
You're doing it wrong.
What does anyone else do in terms of motivation to get on it in the first place and then stick with it ?
...but when her bubble bursts and she realises we are just standing around in the boxroom, so does mine.
I had thought of something like that, but the holes in the board are set up for a countersunk screw, and something like that would stick out and get in the way? Not keen on modifying the board unless I have to.
Me as well but all we got was something from B&Qs DIY tips series for pensioners.