UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: cofe on January 13, 2009, 05:15:49 pm
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(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/John/VP/JM_Superman.jpg?t=1231866802)
JM Cool J will be giving his only major Sheffield lecture at the Works on Sunday 8 Feb. There hasn't been a Jerry lecture for a while so a chance to see him talk is an opportunity not to be missed. The talk will cover pretty much his entire career and he'll have some fine photos and video to accompany it too.
Book tickets on the Climbing Works website (http://www.climbingworks.com/shop/lectures/Jerry_Moffatt_Feb_09_Lecture/) or hit them up on the two way: 0114 2509990.
As Graeme has already mentioned, they'll be running their 'Everyone's a winner' raffle too. Get in.
Don't miss out.
Word.
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JM Cool J will be giving his only major Sheffield lecture at the Works on Sunday 8 Feb.
I thought he was giving a lecture a ShAFF 28 Feb?
http://www.shaff.co.uk/programme/#programme113 (http://www.shaff.co.uk/programme/#programme113)
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JM Cool J will be giving his only major Sheffield lecture at the Works on Sunday 8 Feb.
I thought he was giving a lecture a ShAFF 28 Feb? Maybe he needs to get a PR agent? :-[
http://www.shaff.co.uk/programme/#programme113 (http://www.shaff.co.uk/programme/#programme113)
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Yep. He'll be at ShAFF too, but that will focus more on his book with Grimer interviewing Jerry and talking to him about it.
The BIG one is the Works. Innit.
Or go both. ;D
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Or go both. ;D
For sure.
I'll add that the most memorable of all of Grimer's Ape Index lectures was the Jerry one.
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I'll add that the most memorable of all of Grimer's Ape Index lectures was the Jerry one.
Seconded. The greatest talk given by anyone ever anywhere. It changed my life. I didn't go to Sharma or Graham. I WILL go to this. Get in.
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Yeah, that show fucking rocked. A warm memory :)
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Hang on a bloody minute! Grimer? As in Grimer? As in Grimer of Ape Index, the something or other? Well you would say that it was good, wouldn't you.
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yo. yo yo. Don't forget Jerry is at The Works this Sunday. He's dug out some seriously fly footage of various things and it's bound to be funny as hell. The boy can talk. Don't miss out. He's at ShAFF too at the end of the month but this is the big one in Sheff. Word.
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Don't worry, I've already got my ticket. Have you?
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fuck that shit. it sounds rubbish. there's no way i'm going.
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I know they're doing their famed Raffle, but is it possible to BYOB?
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dunno. hopefully graeme or percy will pop up with the knowledge.
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Wow feel the rebel spirit coursing through the veins (or in Mr A's case antifreeze) get with the zietgeist, sign on the dole, steal some beer, slip in without paying and drink your own while heckling with 'yeah but what have you ever done on grit' before making sure your driver takes you home via the finest kebab shop in town.
P love to come but my leave pass will be spent screaming at the TV in a pub for a few hours on Saturday PM
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No BYOB but do remember to BYODJ or you might be a bit cold
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(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/John/VP/JM_Superman.jpg?t=1231866802)
That Superman pic is quality. RIP hold. :'(
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No BYOB but do remember to BYODJ or you might be a bit cold
What's wrong with bringing your own bird?
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No BYOB but do remember to BYODJ or you might be a bit cold
DJ Yoda might be small enough to fit in someone's bag to bring along, will he need a ticket? :P
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No BYOB but do remember to BYODJ or you might be a bit cold
what is on offer in the "raffle" then?
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Perhaps a down jacket, a DJ, a beer or a bird?
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I heard it was a pair of lime green Vau De shorts.
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1st prize is the chance to snuggle up inside Jerry's sleeping bag that I
stole inherited 20 years ago. Might still have the faintest whiff of the Master himself.
2nd prize is the chance to snuggle up inside Das Plumber's sleeping bag, complete with an in-situ plumber.
3rd prize is a lifetime membership to The Foundry
*Important note: one or more of the above prizes may be fictitious.
There may also be a spot prize for the best Jerry Michael/George Moffatt imitation stubble and for whoever can spot the obvious mistake on the new Moon board ;)
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you mean that its 45 deg and not 40?
I was meaning in terms of available beverages, easy rider again?
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Yep, its Easy Rider again, with a bit of Abbott's Ale leftover from the Gaz lecture. Plus a selection of tins of
piss lager for those less discenering
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Graeme - Gav reserved tickets for him, me and Martin and my mate Nick. He's not coming and there's heavy snow forecast for the High Peak later so we might not make it over to Sheff :thumbsdown: I'll call you @ The Works later and let you know in advance.
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Early warning, its snowing heavily in the hope valley at the moment.
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I expected this to be flooded with comments today?
It was really good to see some of that old training footage of Ben and Jerry, Cofe any chance of a Vimeo upload after the tour is complete?
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It was really good to see some of that old training footage of Ben and Jerry, Cofe any chance of a Vimeo upload after the tour is complete?
Can't see why not. Good idea. Perhaps worth editing it down a bit, but don't want to spoil it for anyone while he's still touring.
Thought it went well last night - certainly more inspiring and lively than other stuff.
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A good night out indeed - probably most improved by being forewarned about the ambient temp in the Works for lecture nights! I thought that the videos were a good laugh - have you invited Ben to any of the talks? ;) Been saving the book but I'm all ready to read the ghost writer's handiwork now...
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I thought the videos were the best bits by a long way TBH
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A good night out indeed - probably most improved by being forewarned about the ambient temp in the Works for lecture nights!
I was forewarned that it was "pretty toasty" down the works.
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I thought the videos were the best bits by a long way TBH
Is this a veiled way of saying that it wasn't very good apart from the videos? :-\
I didn't go so am interested. Surprised there isn't more gushing on this thread!
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(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3374/3265525771_3ea8b2948c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/benmorton/3265525771/)
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Is this a veiled way of saying that it wasn't very good apart from the videos? Undecided
I thought it was OK TBH, its just that the videos showed more humour/something a little different that made them more interesting.
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(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3374/3265525771_3ea8b2948c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/benmorton/3265525771/)
Dodgy characters hanging around near the toilets with wood?
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I didn't go so am interested. Surprised there isn't more gushing on this thread!
It was good but not amazing. Kinda standard top climber talk with some pretty cool / funny video clips.
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Yesterday I had a bit of a rant about this but fortunately I forgot to post it so I can now rant a little more calmly.
My 1st point was the works being a poor choice for such talks. It's a great climbing venue, has plenty of space etc and the principle of having climbing slide shows in climbing walls is fine. But it it is far to cold to pay to sit down for 1-2h and freeze your knackers off. I was nithering with thermals & a duvet and to be honest it's been the same at every slide show in said venue.
To pay £10 to freeze your knackers off is ludicrous. Imagine if you went to the cinema and payed £5 to see Tom Cruise and were freezing cold. I'd want my money back. The venues of old (Byron, Lescar, Uni etc etc) were better principally because you didn't have to risk hypothermia. I think Mr Henson needs to seriously consider venue choice when asking people to spend so much money on what are often mediocre presentations. If you're cold you can't perform at your best and i think this did ot do Jerry any favours. If we'd all have been warm & comfy sat in a pub or similar both the speakers & the audience would have enjoyed things a lot more.
This is not a personal rant against the work as I think it's a fantastic venue with great staff who deliver climbing facilities at the highest standards. What they can't do is make it warm as fundamentally it's a big shed with a wafer thin roof.
As for the talk I enjoyed it but I have to say it wasn't great as previous efforts by Jerry (Ape Index 2001, Sheff poly 1993). Part of this is trying to cram 25 years of greatness into 1-2h. It felt a bit bitty, jumping from one thing to the next principally relying on the video footage which was great but in my view no better than good photos & stories. Some of these guys trying to make a living from talking really should employ some professional help to make there shows both visually & verbally good.
Finally and with no reference to Jerry many top climbers are essentially boring and don't make good speakers, but when doing a lecture tour of ..... venues are I would guess taking a good cut with 100-220 people/venue should make the effort to improve what they're doing. As Yoda might have said " A good sportsman a good talker does not necessarily make"
that's enough i need to get back to preparing my own presentation!
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I think Mr Henson needs to seriously consider venue choice when asking people to spend so much money on what are often mediocre presentations.
(http://i39.tinypic.com/2gsie4j.jpg)
:-\
(http://i39.tinypic.com/10s85c8.jpg)
:-\ ( ^^^ :wank: )
;)
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I agree with Andy. Fundamentally the Works is not an 'intimate' enough venue for these things. I remember presenting some slides at an Ape Index, it started off quite intimidating, but with some feedback and banter from the audience it became much easier. At Jerry's lecture it wasn't really possible for that to happen, and I imagine with a bit of banter/heckling he would have been able to relax and open up. As he said, he loves an audience.
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The Jerry talk was the first lecture i have been to at the works - and i thought it was a terrible venue - essentially i agree with the points already made. Ten quid to be freezing your ass off and it be really hard to see any of the slides / video is taking the piss a bit. I'd also like to add that the Works is a fantastic climbing venue, it's just not the place for having slide shows really.
As far as the show was, i thought it was far from the best or most polished i have ever seen in many ways, but I still found it incredibly inspiring and it certainly made me want to read Revelations even more. The level of psyche required to spend month after month living and training at Stoney, then go and repeat many of the world's hardest routes and win comps is up there with any of the more impressive sporting feats i can think of really.
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Hi Andy,
Without being too presumptious I think you mean Heason not Henson? Funnily enough I didn;t actually have anything to do with Jerry's lecture at the Works on Sunday - it was organised directly between The Works and Vertebrate. I did lend them my projector and screen.
I agree that the Works is not a perfect lecture venue. That said, neither was the Bryncliffe (too impersonal) or the Lescar (usually too full and too hot, and now the beer is too expensive!). Granted it was cold on Sunday night - I believe it was -17degrees in Aviemore, the coldest it's been in this country for some 20 years, so give us a break! I was down there last night and people were milling around in T-shirts. Such is life. At least it wasn't snowing so hard people couldn't get there!
Had you gone down to the local cinema to see Tom Cruise (in person regailing you with tales of his lifes achievments) you would have been paying a whole lot more than £5 for the priviledge! I don't think that £10 to watch Jerry, one of the biggest living climbing legends on the planet is too much to ask.
Makes me chuckle that standards are so high now that a slick audiovisual presentation featuring never before seen video, music, awesome slides and the man himself commenting on it all isn't good enough! Also bear in mind it was his first lecture in 8 years so it's likely to get more polished with each one he does.
C'mon man, chill out.
p.s. if anybody knows of a better venue in Sheffield do speak up. It needs to have cheap beer, hold upwards of 200 people (comfortably), a decent in-house sound system, and preferably be warm.
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C'mon man, chill out.
Nice choice of Phrase.
On a serious note, i agree with Andy's comments too, but understand that an alternative venue might not be available....or is it? There must surely be somewhere more suitable....
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I was down there last night and people were milling around in T-shirts. Such is life.
were they just sat motionless for 2 hours though? i think not. no-one is saying the works is too cold for climbing, they're saying its too cold for lectures.
I am a little confused why matt heason has been dragged into this though, as he says its nowt to do with him. I did love your work on Labyrinth though, those puppets were dope.
Why not just have events like this in one of the uni lecture theaters if you need large numbers? dan honeyman did this a few years ago for the Consumed premier, it was good. I'm sure everyone can hang fire from quaffing ales for the duration of the lecture.
I'd rather have them in "dry" venues like this than either sitting getting frostbite at the works or crammed into the back room of the lescar like a nazi cattletruck. after the couple of heason lectures i went to I stopped going for that very reason. sitting on the floor with my knees round my face listening to kenton kool bang on about some shit or other for 15 hours wasn't fun.
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slick audiovisual presentation
In all honesty it could never be called that could it ?
Seriously, if anyone of us poor souls who ever have to do a powerpoint presentation at work was to deliver something like that we would never be able to call it "slick"
I don't want to denigrate anyone's efforts in putting the event on, or the fun of the night, but shouldn't we be careful to not to let Jerry's (rightful) status as a legend and our desire to have fun as part of the climbing community colour our judgement ?
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Memorial Hall at the back of the City Hall? Or The Showroom ;)
Personally, I didn't go to the Works lecture precisely for the reasons given above, so I wonder how many other folk decided to give it a miss.
Matt - I agree that the Lescar back room is not the best venue in the world, but I wouldn't assume that climbers are all tight. There's plenty of them in the Lescar on a Friday night paying £2.75 a pint. If they're prepared to pay £10 to sit in the Works, maybe they'd stump up £15 to see a big name such as Jerry at the City Hall? Andy Kirkpatrick certainly pulls it off.
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:agree:
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slick audiovisual presentation
In all honesty it could never be called that could it ?
Seriously, if anyone of us poor souls who ever have to do a powerpoint presentation at work was to deliver something like that we would never be able to call it "slick"
Right - this is my third attempt at writing something constructive so here goes.
While I don't feel as strongly as Dolly, though I did feel that the (and I hate this phrase) 'presentation skills' element of the lecture was lacking a bit. I was surprised, firstly as isn't just a one-off gig and secondly as my (admittedly aged) memory of the Ape Index lecture Jerry gave a few years back was so good.
I know how frustrating it is to see someone whinging without being specific, so have tried to break my feedback down into logical categories.
Structure of presentation
I didn't really get a feel for what Jerry was going to talk about at the start - he launched straight into it without telling us what he was going to present on.
I'd always been taught that the 'tell 'em what you're going to tell 'em, then tell 'em, then tell 'em you've told 'em' approach was presenation skillz 101.
Also, it seemed to come to a bit of an abrupt finish, and I'm not sure if I was alone in thinking 'right, is that it then?' - people were leaving as Graeme was trying to do the raffle.
I know Grimer did a great intro, how about getting him to close the show too? Have you still got that 'You Bet' footage? ;)
Pace of presentation
It seemed a bit rushed, like Jerry wasn't really up for it - I'm sure it's really nerve-wracking doing these shows, but I got the feeling he was racing through it at times, and on occasions was taken a bit by surprise at what was coming next on the slideshow. I'm assuming he'd been through it before / done a 'dry run'?
Content of presentation
I thought the balance of visual / spoken word was a bit off - coming back to the Powerpoint example, there were couple of bits that seemed like the equivalent of reading through the slides. The stuff that makes an excellent climbing slideshow seems to the stories behind the images on show, I'd certainly liked to have heard a bit more about some of the stuff that was skimmed over.
Quite a bit of it was stuff that had already been in the Ape Index lecture a few years back - this must be tricky as there would be folk there who weren't there, but could the, say, Hampi stuff have been substituted with 10 mins on the story about, say, Master's Edge from Jerry's point of view?
Anyway, hoping that comes across as constructive rather than mindless nit-picking...
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I thought the balance of visual / spoken word was a bit off - coming back to the Powerpoint example, there were couple of bits that seemed like the equivalent of reading through the slides. The stuff that makes an excellent climbing slideshow seems to the stories behind the images on show, I'd certainly liked to have heard a bit more about some of the stuff that was skimmed over.
The foibles of PowerPoint (or more accurately those who use it) are succintly summarised by Edward Tufte (http://www.edwardtufte.com/tufte/) in his essay The Cognitive Style of PowerPoint : Pitching out Corrupts Within (http://www.edwardtufte.com/tufte/powerpoint).
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Not sure why I got dragge in either ;-)
Am a sucker for these discussions I suppose.
I wasn't able to go on Sunday so was only going on what I heard fro friends who were there that it wa a decent presentation. Spoke to Jerry this morning and he said that he did indeed rush things a little as it was so cold - let's not lose sight of the fact that it was one of the coldest nights of the year and in recent times.
I've always steered away from the likes of the uni lecture halls as I would far rather a decent atmosphere than a comfy seat. I would like to think that most climbers are the same? Showroom is indeed a good venue, but it comes at a cost. Having organised plenty of lectures that should draw big crowds, but don't deliver on the night (I remember watching Leo at a Berghaus lecture in one of the lecture halls a few years back with about 15 other people!) it's a big gamble...
Always value this feedback as I am sure do the Works.
MattH
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One point to remember for choice of venue is hire costs. We normally go 50/50 profit/loss share with Matt ie no fixed fee. Some of the 'smaller' lectures (eg Gaz Parry or Dave Pickford) would not be viable with a fixed fee for venue hire. Even Dave Graham would have had marginal viability if we had charged a decent fixed fee.
And yes I know we make a bit on the raffle and the cafe but this pretty small amounts eg for the raffle on Sunday we made about £3.00 (minus VAT) despite selling 50 raffle tickets. And that's before Mr Vertebrate's bar bill is taken into account ;)
Anyway Andy must be getting soft in his old age, I was perfectly warm in my thermal base layer, 2 fleeces, a duvet, hat and long johns ;D
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I decided halfway through that if I came to another works lecture, I'd bring my own cushion. Cold plastic seats are not fun, even with thermal leggings. Could easily be solved though.
That said, I enjoyed the lecture. I didn't see the Ape Index one, so I had nothing to compare it to. Although it might not have been the slickest lecture, lots of little things Jerry said were very interesting, and gave an insight into his approach to climbing. Like putting tape round a hold to make it look like a pocket. Or that he thought the last 5 min of training were where you made improvements. Or that he couldn't really remember the grade of Superman ("8a or something").
Anyway, I did enjoy it, as did everyone I spoke to. I came away psyched to spend more time footless on roofs!
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Have you tried the Lantern Theatre Matt .... A great venue for lectures , fully licensed and it's in the heart of Nether Edge .....
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thanks for the feedback. i'll pass it on to jerry. i know he'll appreicate it.
was pretty pleased to bag this bad boy on sunday:
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/John/VP/JerryJoe_JC.jpg?t=1234376906)
that's right. Le Saucisson and Jerry. spot the difference. the same muthaflipping room, the same muthaflipping time.
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hold on a minute si o'coefield, you've just hit the clone tool in photoshop. i'm on to you.
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shit, you're right. I punched 'S', held down 'Alt' and starting clicking like a maniac. Should have stuck a full moon in for good measure.
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(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/John/VP/JerryJoe_JC.jpg?t=1234376906)
Joe looks more like Jerry in that picture than Jerry does.
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What other venues is jerry doing? Has their been dates released?
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Ignore that last post just seen the other thread :-[
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Jerry is the one on the right? Isn't he?
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Will look into the Lantern venue... Ta.
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has anyone else seen the new moonclimbing "hero" T-shirt?
Jerry fans... THIS is the T-shirt for you.
Anyone who likes Camo and a lot of it might also like some of the 'other' stuff. I suppose its all from the new eatswood line...
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Paul, love your new signature apart from 2 things. Jerry Moffatt is not called Jerry Moffat. And I believe Jerry said that Malc went from 7c+ (or 7c whatever it was) to Hubble in a season by training on his bedroom board not on boards. ;D
Pedantic? Moi? Absolutment!
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But we will be ordering lots of the Jerry Moffatt Hero and the Steve Bancroft Hero tee's tomorrow (assuming Bri hasn't already done so). So thanks for the heads up.
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I'd say put me down for one hero tee but I can't pick a colour.
Its not as if I can complain about people picking fault now is it :-[, so is something like this:
"Malcolm, the guy who climbed the second ascent... I think he'd climbed 7c+? this thing is 8c+ (Hubble video on screen). He spent the whole winter training on a wooden simulation of this (Hubble)... in his bedroom of his parents house (in his bedroom presumably). All... winter training on this wooden thing. He (Malcolm) came down and went from 7c+ to 8c+ in less than a year" Jerry Moffatt
more to your liking? It might just be me but it doesn't have quite the same ring to it?
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I don't care what Jerry said it's still fucking WRONG!!!
Paul is your sig quote from Jerry's book (if you've managed to get hold of it yet!) or straight from the squeaky one's mouth? Cos either way, it's blatantly wrong.
Malc did Magnetic when he was 17 and Hubble at 18 (it was over a year later I think). Still an amazing improvement but 8b to 8c+ rather than 7c+ to 8c+.
It's not like Jerry to exaggerate........
Graeme you should remember this unless all that fine wine has completely addled your memory. ;)
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*I can't hear you* :'(
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(http://i42.tinypic.com/jr60yc.jpg)
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My apologies Matt for both misspelling your name (actually it was the UKbouldering spell checker) and dragging you into this debate when clearly you had no involvement. I made an assumption that was clearly wrong.
I still stand by what I said as the unsuitability of said venue as a lecture event. Classically these events have always been in the winter (I assume again summer demand would be poor) and probably always will be. I also appreciate why some of the other venues mightn't have been perfect but I much rather it be jostling with more expensive beer and everyone is jovial.
I have no problem spending £10 to watch the living legend and think it's good value if the talk is at least ok/good (which it was) and the environment fullfills basic needs (our survey says uh uh). What I do object to in general is ill thought out presentations that are dull or badly presented. If these guys are touring the world giving slideshows they have a duty to pull together the best presentation they can and take feedback and work on aspects that may be lacking. And these days the audio visual side is stunning but the story / language part is often the problem. I know that 90% of these guys would appreciate constructive criticism and try to develop what they are doing but is anyone being honest with them? In the corporate world this is one of the most important ways to develop yourself.
Graham it's interesting you were warmer than me as we probably share a similar body fat content. Here I go with another assumption but I guess you were £10 warmer than me + your share of takings. Must make the cold seem positively Caribbean ;).
As for r-mans comments, Jerry made me aware of the Dominator pocket things years ago and I have made use of it on several occasions. Sometimes I tell other people about it but you don't want to give to many secrets away. Siobhan was having difficulty on Red Rose in Magic Wood. I regailed the story, took out the tape and she sent it next go. Unfortunately you can't just cover your favorite projects in tape and send them easily. I have another Jerry tip for getting your foot a good 4 inches higher than you can without this little bit of Moffat magic. Ask me next time you see me and I might share it with you as long as you keep it a secret.
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the thing about the tape dominator pocket is also mentioned in the heinz zak yosemite book (http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/517N653ZCHL._SS500_.jpg) from a few years ago now, in the genius chapter written by jerry, including similar tips about microwaving blocks of chalk and dieting in yosemite etc.
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Me, Sam and Percy have special thermal garments made out of £50 notes. They provide amazing insulation.
No way am I as fat as you you lard arse ;)
Graeme (not Graham)
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(http://i42.tinypic.com/jr60yc.jpg)
Did anyone else wince every time (about 4 times) he said he onsighted 'the Phoenix' ?
It came across to me that he had moved on in his life and this was all ancient history that he'd already half forgotten. The lecture was a bit of a letdown after reading the book but I'm still glad I went.
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To anybody who didn't come down to the Works to see Jerry as they weren't psyched about the venue for a lecture - Jerry will be talking at 12.45pm on Saturday at the Showroom as part of ShAFF :-). He's being interviewed by Grimer...
MattH