UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: tlr on January 10, 2009, 06:34:54 pm
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Great effort by Ryan Pasquill.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=336382 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=336382)
No grade yet though, I wonder why....? :shrug:
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Another good effort.
piccie here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=105804 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=105804)
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Oops, I did check and didn't see anything.
Delete away!
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oops - looking at the timestamp, looks like tlr got there first. If the moderators could delete my thread and add my comments here, much appreciated
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Awesome effort :great:
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:great:
Impressive stuff!
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why did he drag along that rope? :shrug:
a joy to see!!!
bravissimo!!!
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Great Effort! :bow: That is News! :great:
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Super fine effort by Ryan.
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That is immense news. A stunning effort.
I bet he downgrades it though.
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This Winter is shaping up nicely....
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Wow, great effort. Can't think of a better LGP to have bagged than that one!
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This Winter is shaping up nicely....
...and just ended, for the mo ;). Until the next cold snap...
P.S. What Bonjoy said.
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Quite good, isn't he? Nice one Ryan.
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Nicely done! What a fun winter we are having.
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Yet more brilliance. I love this.
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BOOM!
FUCK ME! :o :o LEGEND
Shame we lost all the comments from the other thread
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Mutant....He's got it all, and so layed back
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Superb effort! :bow: Inspirational stuff!
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jurassic park.
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Jordan Buys on UKC:
We were privileged to be able to spot/film Ryan on this magical ascent - really impressive stuff!! He reckoned E9 only(!!) because the crux was protected by pads and was sort of highball but it is definitely a route - he placed 3 pieces of kit between the crux and the top and the finishing moves are no pushover. Ryan found the technical grade to be english 7a for him but recognised at least 7b for anyone of normal height!! He therefore suggested a split garde of E9 7a/b but who knows if he will change his mind after a good night's sleep!!
The moves are pretty simple but very very very very morpho. Each move is way beyond the limits of the average climbers span.
All sounds very sensible (apart from the small issue of other routes being traditionally graded sans mats and grading this one with, although fitting and correct for nu-skool climbing, is a bit of a blip). Pity it sounds so morpho. Dolph repeat then??
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What, not E11? :lol:
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Lanky streak off piss. Nice to have some sensible grading.
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Ryan is a beast, the strongest climber ive seen by far.
Effortless style and a very layed back metality too.
A well deserved ascent by a jolly nice bloke. I only hope he dosent get too many questions about the damn grade!
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awesome fucking welles
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Amazing.
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Lanky streak off piss.
Definitely small man's complex there. At least if you can't reach you can just say it's impossible and do a variation finish. Then downgrade it :)
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do we have a name for this one yet?
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Gerty Berwick i think. It's the name chipped into the rock at the bottom.
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we have a winner:
(http://www.cleckheatoncricketclub.com/trophy.jpg)
Worst Route Name Ever
seriously, i hope you're shitting me.
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Lanky streak off piss.
Definitely small man's complex there. At least if you can't reach you can just say it's impossible and do a variation finish. Then downgrade it :)
Nah i just like abusing the Quill even though i love him :shag:
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What Dave said.
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I like it, a damn sight better than most recently.
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Are you using paint stripper in a confined space again?
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The wall has been tried many times by climbers including Steve McClure, James Pearson, Steve Dunning and Jerry Moffatt to name but a few... Both Moffatt and Dunning thought it would never be climbed, making Ryan's achievement even more impressive.
Wow.
The line looks absolutely stunning in the photos I've seen.
Being rather morpho myself (6'7") I am even more impressed. I have only done a few problems no-one else could manage because of the reachiness involved. There's nearly always a way around a long reach, that the very best climbers have failed on this reallys says something. Respect!
(not to imply any top-level climbers have ever tried any of my obscure variations!)
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And Moffatt or Dunning are quite tall themselves :wave:
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And Stunning has a big span as well, which show's how impressive Ry's ascent is.
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Indeed. Dunne was spied trying it a few times with full out dynos and he was quite a big lad.
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Me and JD tried this on the best conditions ever... JD waltzed it only to fail on the final crux... I struggled to do the start... Wicked piece of wall! Great effort.
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Indeed. Dunne was spied trying it a few times with full out dynos and he was quite a big lad.
I'm not sure Dunney's sort of 'size' was of the helpful kind on this route. It would have helped if he'd been a bit taller.....
........and eaten a bit less at tea-time
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http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10347.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10347.0.html)
:rtfm:
;)
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Really impressive stuff...
The comments about this route and its morpho nature are a bit miss-leading - Its just plain hard no matter how tall you are. The dyno to the jug is relatively easy, maybe 7b+ from what I remember. The next move (crux) is a desperate move off a terrible edge and would not be significantly easier for a lanky climber. I would have thought that anyone of average height would have equal chance.
When I tried this route (7 years ago) I couldn't really move on the crux and just gave up.
Steve
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Any chance we're going to get video of this soon?
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Any chance we're going to get video of this soon?
No one filming.
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Really impressive stuff...
The comments about this route and its morpho nature are a bit miss-leading - Its just plain hard no matter how tall you are. The dyno to the jug is relatively easy, maybe 7b+ from what I remember. The next move (crux) is a desperate move off a terrible edge and would not be significantly easier for a lanky climber. I would have thought that anyone of average height would have equal chance.
When I tried this route (7 years ago) I couldn't really move on the crux and just gave up.
Steve
Nice one Master Dunning. Fair do's to the Quill then. What a beast!
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even heard today he onsighted the hardest section on top-rope. m-o-n-s-t-e-r
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Any chance we're going to get video of this soon?
No one filming.
Was wrong about that. There was a couple of camera on him for the ascent. Filmed for Posing Productions.