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the shizzle => shootin' the shit => the log pile => Topic started by: Liam Copley on January 10, 2009, 01:55:14 pm

Title: Trad climbing, Sport Routes??
Post by: Liam Copley on January 10, 2009, 01:55:14 pm: This may sound of a bit of a stupid question OR it may have been asked alot already, but anyway..Can you climb routes which are bolted (sport routes), without using the bolts and use traditional gear, and give it an E grade? Obviously you can if you want, but would people (i.e you the reader) actually accept them as 'proper' trad routes?

Personally I would as the bolts are in places which dont take away placements ( obviously other wise the bolts would be unsafe) so if you bolts were completely ignored then it would be fine.

I ask this because it seems like there could be some really hard/serious OR just generally good trad routes out there if they were led traditionally.

I'm not actually a trad climber but, I was just wondering as I have never seen anybody ask this before. ??

Your thoughts please
Title: Re: Trad climbing, Sport Routes??
Post by: Oli on January 10, 2009, 02:26:33 pm: Quote from: Liam Copley on January 10, 2009, 01:55:14 pm
I was just wondering as I have never seen anybody ask this before. ??

Quote from: Liam Copley on January 10, 2009, 01:55:14 pm
This may sound of a bit of a stupid question

Coincidence?
Title: Re: Trad climbing, Sport Routes??
Post by: Eddies on January 10, 2009, 08:09:40 pm: *cringe*
Title: Re: Trad climbing, Sport Routes??
Post by: GCW on January 10, 2009, 08:17:47 pm: Generally, sport routes are on bits of rock with minimal/no trad gear. So you'd have to solo most of them, then top out through the greenery as you won't use the bolted lower off.

Two questions:
1. Why on earth would you bother
2. If you did Hubble this way, would it be E12?
Title: Re: Trad climbing, Sport Routes??
Post by: Paul B on January 10, 2009, 08:40:25 pm: I'd always heard of some guy doing this on diretissima at Kilnsey, taking a fall and either a. hurting himself or b. decking, and hurting himself. It may just be urban legend.
Title: Re: Trad climbing, Sport Routes??
Post by: The Sausage on January 10, 2009, 10:14:09 pm: I think Ken Wiilson got chucked out of Leeds Wall for leading a route putting slings over the jugs.

I don't want to be judgemental, and I know there are a lot of subtleties to climbing that must seem rather odd/inconsistent to outsiders/beginners, but do we really have to read this sort of shit?
Title: Re: Trad climbing, Sport Routes??
Post by: SA Chris on January 10, 2009, 10:23:58 pm: This sort of question belongs in the poo pile. Sorry loon.
Title: Re: Trad climbing, Sport Routes??
Post by: slackline on January 11, 2009, 06:47:26 am: Quote from: The Sausage on January 10, 2009, 10:14:09 pm
but do we really have to read this sort of shit?

No, you just don't click on the thread (or at least ignore it from now on).
Title: Re: Trad climbing, Sport Routes??
Post by: Tris on January 13, 2009, 10:06:41 am: Quote from: The Sausage on January 10, 2009, 10:14:09 pm
I think Ken Wiilson got chucked out of Leeds Wall for leading a route putting slings over the jugs.

Superb... old skool rules, I love seeing the old timers (60/70ish) turning up at the wall with a full rack :)