UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: Munkii on December 27, 2008, 11:34:13 am
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what do you want to achieve in 2009?
climbing or non climbing.
fire away.
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Stop being unwell, learn to topout and get a decent grit 7a. I just need to get out more! That's about it. And you?
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Climb at:
Gogarth
Tremadog
Get My sections done for the Slate guide and see it published
Get uninjured
All this might seem a little simple, but Since I became a Daddy, Its become a might difficult to get anywhere for more than a few hours
However, I am getting nappy changes down to a fine art..
Hose
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Arse, I was going to post this thread just after midnight like last time.
Mine are rolling over, only acheived 3. So unless fingers are pulled out in the next 4 days, this is it....
1. Buckstone Dyno- tried one day, should go next time (don't they always?)
2. Fight on Black (Widdop)- Got the psych back to try it now.
3. Picnic Sarcastic +/- SDS- Got close on a brief session years ago, didn't go back in 08
4. West Side Story Didn't try it in 08
5. Jerry's Arete (Bridestones) Should be acheivable
6. Sloping Beauty (Earl) Need to get back and try it again
7. Underhand (Almscliff)- Got the numbers, need to go and finish it off.
8. Beachball (Secret Garden)- Stupid, stupid, bastard problem.
9. Clash of the Titans (St Bees)- Still not been, aaaaargh.
10. Big Marine (Craig Y Longridge)- Tried it once when wet. Need to go back
Now I've gone and said it, bugger.
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Hmmm. That's half my list sorted:
1. Buckstone Dyno- tried one day, should go next time (don't they always?)
4. West Side Story
5. Jerry's Arete (Bridestones) Should be acheivable
6. Sloping Beauty (Earl) Need to go and try it
8. Beachball (Secret Garden)- Stupid, stupid, bastard problem.
2. Brad Pitt Need to get back on it and be strong
3. Play Hard Are those holds in?
7. Sur-Prises (Isatis)
9. Go to St. Bees
10. Lots of trad Wrong forum, but it needs to be done
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Ah, competition eh? Should add to the spice. :lol:
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However I now live in Sheffield, so can get on 3 of those 5 within 15 minutes, and the other 2 in less than 90 minutes :dance1:
There's no point competing! :P
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Well, I can get to 2 of those in 40 minutes, and the other 3 in 80 minutes.
Oh, bugger :(
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Is this thread officially replacing the traditional GCW Jan 1st offering?
If so I will submit my list here. Could someone in the know please clarify?
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Yeah, let's use this one.
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My aims are so adrift of my achievements the last few years that it becomes pointless, so;
Not get injured
Boulder more
trad more
Ski more
have a good snowboard trip
surf more (esp away from home)
get to Hebrides
MTB more
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ok, here we go-
- Hank's Wall, Brownstones - Should have done this years ago
- Andy Brown's Wall, Earl - Shouldn't be too tricky, this is the kind of move i need to improve on though!
- Big Marine, Craig Y Longridge - Classic, made progress on it today so it should go
- Pistol Whip, Almscliff - had a very brief go, need to have a proper go on it!
- Beauty of Being Numb, Woodwell - not tried it properly
- Pit Problem, Trowbarrow - ditto
- Shallow Grave, Trowbarrow - Never tried it, supposed to be an absolute classic
- Cromlech Roof Crack, Cromlech - Got close but not been back
- The Flakes, Earl - doesn't seem too hard
- Get to more places! - Explore North Wales more, Northumberland, Kentmere, get to the Peak more
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ok, here we go-
- Beauty of Being Numb, Woodwell - not tried it properly
Am I right in thinking the pinch is still lost? If so, I wouldn't bother with it Andi.
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I thought it had been glued back on?
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Yes, the first time.
Not sure it was found after the second failure.
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Hmm was going to hold off till Jan 1st but to be fair I have already ticked one of them this year, so not sure if I have already broken rules as such :whistle:
Here goes:
1. Jerry's Roof (The pass) - have fell off lip
2. Lou Ferrino (cave) - fell off last move
3. Trigger Cut (cave) - feels hard!
4. Jess's Roof (Almscliff) - not tried yet, quite psyched
5. Fallen Idol (roche) - 1 mover, need decent skin and cold temps
6. Lizard King (The pass) - done!
7. Brass Monkeys (Stanage) - should have done today, gutted
8. Sparks (pantymwyn) - fell off last move 4 times in a row, seems permanently wet now
9. Vitruvian Man (Trowbarrow) - not tried, can't wait!
10. Pit of Hell (cave) - Have worked the moves, feel destroyed when I reach the Flake to start RA! Need some PE.
Best get training!
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Right then this is the UK only list (i.e. non-Font):
1) Jess's Roof, Almscliff - This is a rollover from '08.
2) Jerry's Traverse, Stanage - Another rollover.
3) Keelhaul, Almscliff - Have worked this a bit in '08 one BIG move for me.
4) Jasons Roof, Crookrise - Never even touched this but it has a reputation for aceness, I reserve the right to replace this problem when I realise it's way beyond me
5) Marks Roof, Gardoms - Tried this in summer '07 and sweated off the last move, never been back.
6) Something in Wales
7) Shallow Grave RH, Trowbarrow - Tried this year and fell of the last move several times, find it very reachy.
8) Isla De Encata, Trowbarrow - God what am I thinking? Had a brief mess on this the other day and whilst it felt dirty hard it did feel vaguely possible. Obviously I'm totally dreaming here and I again reserve the right to replace this.
9) Something at St Bees
10) Something in Northumberland
I'd be very happy with 5 ticks off this list, and I'm open to suggestions for items 6, 9 and 10 in the 7B-7C-ish range. Obviously there is a supporting cast of hundreds of other problems that I'll doubtless get caught up with instead......
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My aim for 2009 is to tap the back of my hand in the slot on Rock Attrocity instead of having my hand in there and not tapping it 4 times in a sweaty row as per usual.
*The ss to Hitchhikers (Nik, would have thought this right up your street by the sounds of things)
*Moreau's Island (just need a month doing big snatches on campus or deploy filthy crimp/deadpoint beta)
*Aeon (get there not in heat of summer and it's done)
These three would leave me happy.
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My list would be,
Recover from this bloody flu/cold.
Get below 12st pref 11 7 (this might happen),
If I lose the weight then I might get strong,
If I get light and strong then I'd like to do some climbing, pref new esoterica.
projects? I don't really do projects but there's a few things that look tempting, Silk for example.
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Right then this is the UK only list (i.e. non-Font):
1) Jess's Roof, Almscliff - This is a rollover from '08.
2) Jerry's Traverse, Stanage - Another rollover.
3) Keelhaul, Almscliff - Have worked this a bit in '08 one BIG move for me.
4) Jasons Roof, Crookrise - Never even touched this but it has a reputation for aceness, I reserve the right to replace this problem when I realise it's way beyond me
5) Marks Roof, Gardoms - Tried this in summer '07 and sweated off the last move, never been back.
6) Something in Wales
7) Shallow Grave RH, Trowbarrow - Tried this year and fell of the last move several times, find it very reachy.
8 ) Isla De Encata, Trowbarrow - God what am I thinking? Had a brief mess on this the other day and whilst it felt dirty hard it did feel vaguely possible. Obviously I'm totally dreaming here and I again reserve the right to replace this.
9) Something at St Bees
10) Something in Northumberland - Hitchhikers SS
I'd be very happy with 5 ticks off this list, and I'm open to suggestions for items 6, 9 and 10 in the 7B-7C-ish range. Obviously there is a supporting cast of hundreds of other problems that I'll doubtless get caught up with instead......
Cheers Monolith, list amended. Got any recommendations for Wales?
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Yup. Some idle suggestions for n wales;
Harvey Oswald ss, Under the bridge, Diesel Power, Lizard King. Should keep you busy for a little while (maybe not!?)
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as far as real aims go, i have too much to write them down here!!!
in general:
- continue training and improving
- climb better
- travel a bit more to swizzy
- get back to font
- get back to uk for longer (again)!!!!
- gain half a grade at least on one problem!!!
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-devote more time to uni than doing fuck all
-train the same using same time as above
-climb harder, more finger board and body tension training
climb 7c
complete - timmy tip toes
get on more grit
jess's roof - had a couple of go's and its not too bad
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-devote more time to uni than doing fuck all
:agree: Need to pull my finger out!
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mmmmmmm.....
1. Embrace parenthood
2. Combine 1 with maintaining some sort of form.
3. Compete to my own satisfaction in an off road race.
4. Hue, Rocher du Cassepot. (but any 7c'll do I supppose)
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I have only one aim for 2009: DON'T GET INJURED.
If I achieve that then I want to follow in the path of the Mighty Messrs Haston & Bolger and tick 8c+, then if I achieve that I want to tick
1) The Groove, Malham.
2) Mecca Extension
3) Unjustified.
But not necessarily in that order. I'd take a font 8b tick as well if I could find one I could do. But mostly DON'T GET INJURED.
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Connoisseur!!!
Let me know when you intend to do the groove. I'll sell tickets...I would love to see it. Can we fit you with a throat mike for the half height rest??????
(http://www.midwestsalesinc.com/full%20respirator.jpg)
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Connoisseur!!!
Let me know when you intend to do the groove. I'll sell tickets...I would love to see it. Can we fit you with a throat mike for the half height rest??????
If I manage the groove there'll be video on the interweb within minutes, and an interview with mick ryan from the half height rest - fear not. Failing that, if it takes as many days as I think it might, I'm sure you'll see a couple of goes :wall:
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Run a sub-3 hour marathon.
Earn more cash than I need (for a change).
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Climbing aims:
Main one is to not get injured, as I was for the pretty much the last half of '08 - if so...
Boulder Font 7b
Trad E5
Non climbing:
Avoid getting the chop in the round of redundancies that are currently going off at my work
Get finances under control
Run more
Get some core strength
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- more big trad e6s (skinhead, dreams and screams, jub-jub, king wad, MSND, lots in pembroke, more in ireland etc)
- a big trad e7 onsight/flash
- get back to ireland
- get to scotland
- solo caveman then have the balls to jump off after the traverse pitch
- onsight more 7c/7c+s and maybe flash 8a
- redpoint 8b
- more euro sport love, and get some good dws done
- 7C+ on lime (ben's roof or PUTP maybe)
- 8A (and even more optimistically, careless torque GU)
- go back to font
oh, and decide what I want to do with my life.
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Climb something. Anything!
Would like to do a VS or HVS or E1 before the year is done. Doesn't matter what it is or whether I've don't it before. Anything will do.
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MILEAGE
• Tick half a dozen good V8’s
• A few classic 7a sport routes over summer (assuming we get one this year)
• ‘Cairn’ and ‘Rubicon’ would be nice too if all goes well.
• Some big easy trad in north Wales (proper adventure climbing/character building!)
• Make a concerted effort to spend less time training on the crimpy vertical stuff and crank on the 45deg board a lot more.
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Onsight some E5's in the mountains or seacliffs
Boulder Font 7b
Lead a 7c
Edale Skyline and a couple of the classic Lakes races
Get back to playing the guitar with more regularity
Get weight below 12 stone
Drink less
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Onsight some E5s, maybe try and flash an E6.
More classic problems.
7C.
Redpoint an 8a.
More seacliffs and non-peak areas.
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A few boulder problems;
Rockattrocity
Jerry's roof
Famous Grouse
Brad Pitt
Full Power
Bens Roof
Boulder abroad somewhere other than Font.
Close the 2.5 CoC (Remember they are useless though).
Spend some time sport climbing and learn how to do it properly, perhaps climb 8a?
Reduce alcohol consumption.
Increase cv exercise by cycling to work.
Improve my portfolio (art not shares).
Buy first house with The little drummer girl.
Burn Matt Wrigley and Sharik off -hah!
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Reduce alcohol consumption.
This is a recurring theme. I should probably take note myself :-[ :alky:
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for what reason?
I've had it with reality
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I think I should maybe cut down to under 6 pints a night :shrug:
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what do you want to achieve in 2009?
climbing or non climbing.
climbing - continuing to find new grit pearls where everyone least expects them.
non climbing - a home and a little lodger.
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non climbing - a home
This is aims for 2009, not aims for 2090.
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You should come to ours Andi, then you really would see hopeless optimism in action.....
Non climbing goals:
More windows
More floors
More walls
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Climbing:
Bouldering
Put away a few of my long term projects. Any from:
- Earl: Sloping Beauty, Superfly, Handy Andy's, The Flakes.
- Almscliff: Underhand (surely it can't hold out for a third year), Virgin 7b, The Keel, Fieldside (if the bog ever dries / freezes), Pistol Whip, Streaky's Traverse.
- Brimham: Titfield Thunderbolt, The Long Haul, Crimpy Roof.
- Ilkley: Ringpiece, First Arete (even though it's pretty horrible).
- Caley: Ben's Groove (spotters / lack of self-preservation required).
- Slipstones: Layby Arete
Also, get to the Peak more and mop up a few of the classics, return to the County and/or Wales.
Roped shizzle
- Consolidate E2 trad (particularly like to tick The Rasp, Erb, and Knightsbridge).
- Make inroads into E3, especially the limestone classics (Adjudicator Wall, Black Grub, The Beest, Absent Friends, Rave On). Lead the big three Almscliff E3s.
- Do more sport routes and get some proper climbing fitness. I'm currently limited by my inability to climb anything that doesn't comprise crimpy cruxes interspersed by good rests!
Non-Climbing
- Get a job... preferably one that doesn't make me hate myself (or at least one that pays well enough to compensate). Being on the dole is shit but spending 70% of my waking life as a zombie, marking time until the weekend doesn't appeal either.
- Move out of my parent's house (see previous aim for the means of achieving this).
- Stop eating so much cake (see previous aim for the means of achieving the necessary distance from mum's cookery).
- Start playing the guitar again.
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1) The Joker
2) The Groove - Malham
3) Supercool - Gordale
4) Urgent Action - Kilnsey
5) Finish off loose ends on the routes from this year.
6) Flash 7c+
7) Climb an 8b
8) Go to Albarricin
9) Iron Man
10) Caviar - Rubicon
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Climbing (in increasing order of unlikeliness):
Go climbing
Go climbing again
Improve on my magnificent 2008 bouldering best of Fb6a+ (no, really)
Reacquaint myself with gritstone trad and attack the grey area in between what (in the distant past) I've onsighted (E3) and what I've fallen off (E5). Perfect Day would be nice. And Goosey Goosey Gander (if I can get a bit fitter).
Get up some quality stuff in the V6 to V8 range. No idea what. Any good suggestions for a 6ft3 technical dunce with zero strength and a bit of a twitch?
A European sport climbing expedition, culminating in an onsight of Chouca wearing nothing but a red bandana and a pair of John Galliano underpants. Possibly photographed by David LaChapelle...
Biking
Maintain my current MTBing motivation drive
Do a few time trials
Finish off tweaking the big bike
Perfect my shore skills
Ride the big drop at Ae
Crush some serious DH on my proposed Alpine adventure
Others
Finish final draft of the best novel since Leo Tolstoy put down his pen, scratched his anus, picked his nose, chewed the little green chunk hanging from his fingernail, farted, breathed in through his now clear nasal cavity, smiled to himself in that way you do when you think you've produced something worth bottling, and then, moments later, toy with the title War and Onanism.
Finalise and put into action the greatest furniture-related business scheme since Thomas Chippendale decided to rub French polish into a young man instead of a break-front wardrobe.
Design a house fit for a Bond villain
Lose my virginity
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0. Recover from debilitating elbow injury.
Then, carried over:
1. Climb remaining E2-4 routes in Lleyn section of North Wales Rock before spring.
2. Climb abroad on either Scandinavian granite or German/Czech sandstone.
3. Go on whatever bouldering / sport trips abroad are available.
4. Hang out with my mates more and do more climbing with them.
5. Climb a few remaining inspirations at Nesscliffe, Baggy, a few esoteric odds and sods, and on grit.
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Any good suggestions for a 6ft3 technical dunce with zero strength and a bit of a twitch?
That description sounds eerily familiar, so absolutely anything I've ever done would fit the bill. Beware though, I suspect that if we ever met and climbed the same problems the space-time continuum would rupture in an explosion of gamma rays, positrons and super-chalk.
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Hmmm,I passed on this thread last year, but what the hell, :o cue punterdom :o
General aims, get fitter, lose half a stone, climb 6c+, learn how to rockover, generally get out more, HVS, and prove that getting married doesn't mean the end of a climbing llife... ;)
ok, here goes - mostly local as it's tricky getting away
Boopers - (Brownstones) still not bloody topped out, although it's a only a matter of time!
Elemental - (Thorn) find this fine until the rockover... just can't nail it though
Brian Jacques - (Cadshaw) not tried it yet but looks awesome
Pond Traverse (Brownstones) easy, but always get knackered, also the pond only gets dry for about 4 weeks a year...
Burnt Heather (Thorn) before it gets polished... shame it's such an arse to get up there
Catfoot (Round Barn) awesome, although feels really high. need to get back on this
The Hacker start (Wilton 1) cos it's close and looks good
Staffs Flyer - (Roaches) something I've wanted to do for a while and never got round to
I'm open to suggestions for the remaining 2 - would be good to get to St. Bees, develop some esoterica and clean up some tottering holes that noone goes to
bring it on. OF course whether I do any of this is another question ;)
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- Climb somewhere abroad that isn't Font
- Climb outside more
- Use time at climbing wall more productively
- Drink/Eat less
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Have a genuine reason to post in the YYFY thread - i.e. do something that really pushes and excites me (El Rincon at Dinbren is one target that might fulfill these criteria, would be my first 8a in a long time)
Finish the last few projects at Helsby (pretty imperative as a couple of them are already written into the script for the new guide)
Climb E5 in good style
Go on a climbing trip
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Any good suggestions for a 6ft3 technical dunce with zero strength and a bit of a twitch?
That description sounds eerily familiar, so absolutely anything I've ever done would fit the bill. Beware though, I suspect that if we ever met and climbed the same problems the space-time continuum would rupture in an explosion of gamma rays, positrons and super-chalk.
Yeah, we need to get a couple of very talented and strong midgets along for the ride, just to even things out a bit...
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Aim for this year is:
to climb 7c consistently
go to the dentist
loose weight without compromising my ale consumption
win more than £1 million on the lottery
not too much to ask
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more nebulous than problem/route specific for me:
- an 8A/V11 (either bloc or long problem - I ain't fussy for the first one!)
- enjoy sport climbing in the UK
- go on a sport climbing trip for the first time
- not go the Font
- be regimented with fingerboarding (i.e write down a schedule and goals and stick to it)
- have fun in Bishop
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Climbing aims:
Main one is to not get injured, as I was for the pretty much the last half of '08 - if so...
Boulder Font 7b
Trad E5
Non climbing:
Avoid getting the chop in the round of redundancies that are currently going off at my work
Get finances under control
Run more
Get some core strength
Just thought of a couple of others...
I'll shamelessly take Mr Popp's 'genuine reason to post in YYFY', and on top of that, a couple of non-climbing aims:
Run 20 miles a week
11k+ powerball
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go to the dentist
Having broken a tooth on the 29th, my first thing to do on Monday is call the dentist, so I can tick that. Great.
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This has been the first winter for what must be about seven or eight years that I've not been plunged back into the dark pit of depression. This is a good sign and I'm hoping that 2009 will allow me to carry on with my life which has been on hold for so long because of the ruining effects of the disease.
If things continue positively then i'll say:
- stop drinking for at least a month, maybe more.
- stop smoking the 'erb for at least a month, maybe more.
- lose weight.
- if "lose weight" works well enough, start bouldering again, I miss it.
- get fit for mtb...goes hand in hand with "lose weight".
- ride "Matador" at Inners in good style.
- play less videogames / do less trivial web surfing.
- sort the ukb shop and other web projects.
- end the year with a fucking big log-pile; enough to keep me and Ms Bubbs and the cat warm through to 2010.
- learn to deal with the "jet lag" of shift work and live around it successfully.
- cook more healthy food and eat less crap.
- sort out the garage.
- do some more work on Ms Bubbs on the subject of getting a puppy.
- go on a nice holiday somewhere.
- that'll do for now ;)
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I'm up for Innerleithen!
And the oft talked about Caersws uplift.
And Cwmcarn. Dates anyone?
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1. Climb remaining E2-4 routes in Lleyn section of North Wales Rock before spring.
Give us a tip-off if you do, trying to get enough photos for an article together. Can't offer accomodation til after easter tho I'm afraid...
My aims:
1. Get to the Bugaboos, or similar amazing alpine rock venue where topping out means topping fucking out.
2. Do some surfing, learn to turn
3. Take at least one photo that earns me five stars in Lightroom.
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- more big trad e6s (skinhead, dreams and screams, jub-jub, king wad, MSND, lots in pembroke, more in ireland etc)
King Wad is piss, not even E5, but very good. Don't know what you've done but good (softish) N.Wales E6s are Bog of the Eternal Stench, Lord (obviously), them up that red wall in bum hole (over the beach?), schittlegruber, and pistolero on cloggy - gets E5 in the guide, but I thought it was safe but desperate. Needless to say, there are millions more.
-- solo caveman then have the balls to jump off after the traverse pitch
Not sure that sounds like a great idea, plus topping out into brambles is half the fun. Plus the lip trip pitch is amazing, but would be very scary to jump off after that...
oh, and decide what I want to do with my life.
over-rated too...
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Routes: Conehead, Overnite, Grooved Arete.
Bouldering - do some more and improve on my current meagre standards.
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Right:
-Not get injured
-Become able to have a conversation in Dutch.
-Find a pal (I do have pals, just not many in the current locale)
-Do a couple of sprint triathlons
-Go to a climbing wall occasionally
-Go on 3 bouldering missions ,Font or elsewhere (alas a mission for me these days is another word for a weekend)
-Go surfing
-Red circuit somewhere in Font, Gorge Du Chats?
-7a twice in one trip somewhere in Font - dynos not included.
Nothing too ambitious there except the dutch bit.... Hmmm
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Bouldering:Climb every Glendalough problem in the 6's
- Figure out what Glendo 7a is and climb it
- Go back to Font and do Helicopter and some other stuff I came close to last time
- Go to a foreign Granite destination
Trad:Onsight E3 and ground-up E4 in Dalkey
- Toprope an E7 and my quarry project clean
- Visit more mountain crags
- Get to Fair Head
Basically get out of the bubble I currently do all my climbing in
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1. Train properly for a change.
2. Finally address arm weakness (see 1).
3. Finish off the sitter to The Pinch at Crag X.
4. Climb 7C in Font (preferably Hotline) weather permitting (will probably only get a week there).
5. Go to The County.
6. Get out more.
7. Play Hard.
8. Great White.
9. Go to the Orme and climb on The Box.
10. Climb 8A (this is probably subject to 1 & 2 and definitely 6).
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6. Get out more.
7. Play Hard.
number 7 definitely validates the presence of 6 on your list. :-\ :lol:
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Is that with or without the crack?
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number 7 definitely validates the presence of 6 on your list. :-\ :lol:
I know I know. It's just that since I got the decent hold on the top and ballsed it up I've not been back so it needs finishing off! :-[
Is that with or without the crack?
You know I aint using no crack mofo.
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I was back there yesterday for the first time in years and the slopers felt a lot worse (more polished) than I remember. Maybe it's just my defective memory though.
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I was back there yesterday for the first time in years and the slopers felt a lot worse (more polished) than I remember. Maybe it's just my defective memory though.
And nothing to do with defective strength?
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Strength isn't the main issue, No 1 is the defective slimness.
[No 2= lack of technique]
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It's extremely conditions dependent. Oh and if you're a fat cunt then that probably wont help either.
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Yeah, I'm certianly a fatter cunt than I was years ago :lol:
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Using the crack or not makes no odds on play hard. if you're struggling with the first move, give up and come back when you've got half a chance of doing the top.
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it only makes odds as far as you want to be on playhard and not just a bad sequence on a 5b crack. on a more important note, the sitter is a glaring ommision which is up for grabs, if anyone is quick they might be able to bag it before percy. get to it fellas.
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8. Beachball (Secret Garden)- Ticked the stupid, stupid, bastard problem.
And here's a video, but the best bit is the second half :lol:
http://www.vimeo.com/2725172 (http://www.vimeo.com/2725172)
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My aims for 2009 and beyond
non-climbing:
1. strike perfect balance between riding to work (>fatigue) and training (<psyche)
2. strike perfect balance between mates and the missus
3. strike perfect balance between incomings and outgoings (financial)
4. strike perfect work vs life balance
5. strike perfect relatives/old friend visiting balance
6. be a good earth citizen and decent better human being (7 lashes with the cat for a trip to CA)
7. swear less
climbing:
1. have fun and enjoy the journey, not just the destination
2. Pope's Prow, Green Wall, Fly Boy, Bard/Leary Arete LH, Saigon, Soulslinger (?), Jedi Mind Tricks (choked), Iron Man (weak) - Buttermilks
3. get highballing and learn how to top out again (the above list should help me with these)
4. Blockbuster, New Jerusalem, Secret Seventh, Crystal Meth, Ben's Groove (?) - Caley Roadside
5. Banana Split, Back Stabber SS, Pedestal Arete, Chicken Run, Creme Egg Eliminate - Caley Crag
6. Almscliffe (the whole crag)
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Some of these are carried over from the 2008 list here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10001.0.html) but there are a few new ones added as well.
1. Buy the van and get it sorted.
2. The Holy Trinity - Pebble Arete, Murky Rib & Anniversary Arete - two problems that I know I can do and one that I think I can.
3. More trad all over the country - 2008 was a really good year for trad from my perspective and hopefully 2009 will provide the same.
4. Try and be consistent when out climbing - it really frustrates me how inconsistent I can be at times.
5. Organise my life better so I can work in some form of training\fitness thing.
6. Sport climbing trips - a rediscovered love after 3 years away - definitely a lot more bolted action (non Peak) required for this year.
7. Go to Font!! This now warrants two exclamation marks!
8. The Holy Trinity of Grades - consistently climbing HVS, Font 6b and F6b (onsight) would be considered a big tick.
9. Gorilla\Extended Warfare.
10. Avalanche Wall (Curbar) without falling off or slumping onto gear.
bluebrad
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right... time to embarrass myself with the puny-ness of my aims :)
1. climb outside more WHATEVER THE COST - (im a public transport whore see)
2. climb 7a on't grit.. or well, anywhere really
3. font it up (mmm, lonnng walk :))
thats about it really... anyone got any recomendations for good 7a's in the eastern peak for me to work at?
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Beachball or the Nose would be a good start!
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1/ Get my shoulder back to 100%
2/ Big trip to the Gramps to tick of some stuff in HMC
3/ Learn to drive
Apart from a few random problems dotted around Sydney, that should over me for a while.
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I'm up for Innerleithen!
And the oft talked about Caersws uplift.
And Cwmcarn. Dates anyone?
Soz Yoss, missed this before - Inners will be in the summer for me I reckon - need to save some dosh to service my forks/shock and it's fucking miles from here so tick off some of the closer ones first. Cwmcarn is always a good re-intro to the sport after some time off :)
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i was thinking summer for scotland too.
cwmcarn it is then... i'll get my crutches dusted off.
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Definitely give us a heads up if anyone heads up this way. With new bike and new van, psyched for some bike action, and no plans all summer (apart from a week in Les Gets).
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1) Star in my very own Dosage as I show Bigup Productions round some of the world-class bouldering within an hours drive of Bristol. In my mind's eye, the final scene would see me latching the top hold of Lone Ranger at Huntsham to the audible delight of additional cameraman Chad Greedy.
2) Lone Ranger at Huntsham
3) Big Boss
4) Flash L'Angle Parfait
5) Go to Bowden Doors and solo Klondyke Wall and The Trial at least twice each.
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4) Flash L'Angle Parfait
who'd you think you are? nigel 'golden feet and faucet' kershaw?
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A man can dream.
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yes she can, yes she can.
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Definitely give us a heads up if anyone heads up this way. With new bike and new van, psyched for some bike action, and no plans all summer (apart from a week in Les Gets).
i certainly will.
i am also planning an alpine mission. my initial thoughts were a kind of st moritz bearskin rug cowshed chic strip fondue "you're really called heidi?" chocolate-covered glockenspiel type adventure, but i think my accomplices are in fact planning to hire some sort of rv (no doubt loaded to the gunwales with pr0nography and andy mcnab novels) and drive us to les gets...
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i should be up for some scotland riding when the days are longer chris. tlr was on about it too.
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5) Go to Bowden Doors and solo Klondyke Wall and The Trial at least twice each.
Bonus points if it's a single day-trip from Brizzle.
A couple of years ago I got very good at downclimbing from the upper crux of The Trial :S
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1. Buckstone Dyno- tried one day, should go next time (don't they always?)
2. Fight on Black (Widdop)
3. Picnic Sarcastic +/- SDS- Got close on a brief session years ago, didn't go back in 08
4. West Side Story Didn't try it in 08
5. Jerry's Arete (Bridestones) Should be acheivable
6. Sloping Beauty (Earl) Need to get back and try it again
7. Underhand (Almscliff)- Got the numbers, need to go and finish it off.
8. Beachball (Secret Garden)
9. Clash of the Titans (St Bees)- Still not been, aaaaargh.
10. Big Marine (Craig Y Longridge)- Tried it once when wet. Need to go back
Soon to appear in the YYFY thread too.
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Two ticks in the first month, is someone aiming a little low?
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Same as last year. 2 ticks in a month, then 2 more in 11 months :lol:
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Western eye's and brad pit are my 2 main aims for this year
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There is something therapeutic about this:
1) Get out more
2) 7a at Dumbarton - thinking ToTo SS as I can do this in two; Possibly Slap happy, now I know the crucial toe.
3) Hitchikers from the block.
4) Lose 7 pounds, and keep it off.
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OK,
1 come back from Font without fucked elbows.
2 Jocks Sitting
3 Monty pythons Sitting
4 Hitch Hikers from block
5 Rose and unemployed Bus. Man
6 Tidy up some of the 7a's I have started in Font and try carnage
7 Get to Bowder Stone
8 Boulder in the Pass
9 Do some more Peak limestone- miss bouldering on it!
10 Loose a couple of lbs more and do a 10 mile road race in sub 25 mins
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1 come back from Font without fucked elbows.
the mists are clearing, my crystal ball tells me short 4 day trip to font, perfect weather, no rest days........
better get the ice packs out now!
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do a 10 mile road race in sub 25 mins
Really...
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Think he means on a bike, not on legs.
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Ahhh. More realistic then. Apologies for my running-centric (mis)reading of the post.
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Ahhh. More realistic then. Apologies for my running-centric (mis)reading of the post.
Worse still, is he has skinny tyres. He'll be shaving his legs next, and we know where that leads to
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Got some local projects down here on the sandstone, but my knowledge of good problems elsewhere is limited, so am open to suggestions as to a good test piece, a real milestone at its grade. Something in the 7a+ 7b arena, (not sure of the v grade equivalent). Peaks area down to font.
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the mists are clearing, my crystal ball tells me short 4 day trip to font, perfect weather, no rest days........
better get the ice packs out now!
was thinking this gite would have a freezer as I am gonna buy 4 bags of frozen peas :thumbsup:
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so i've been away for a while but i'm back. :o
i was going to post up a nice long list of aims, but that list has been cut pretty short down to two things:
recover fully from injury
get back to where i was before and then take it from there.
i couldn't bear hanging around on a bouldering forum while being unable to climb so that is why i have not been around to cause havok or however you spell it. ;D
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Ahhh. More realistic then. Apologies for my running-centric (mis)reading of the post.
Worse still, is he has skinny tyres. He'll be shaving his legs next, and we know where that leads to
His pubic hair...?
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Got some local projects down here on the sandstone
Southern Sandstone? Ooh where be these projects?
I must do more down there this year, like actually visit more than once instead of playing on the grit and plastic.
I just want to do 'the beast' this year and bake a perfect Gypsy Tart?
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Got some local projects down here on the sandstone
Southern Sandstone? Ooh where be these projects?
I must do more down there this year, like actually visit more than once instead of playing on the grit and plastic.
I just want to do 'the beast' this year and bake a perfect Gypsy Tart?
Mainly at High rocks i could ring off a few, but i will mention one in particular, and thats, Second Generation, a big sustained 6B (Eng tech) that has seen very little in the way of repeats, interestingly.
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i will mention one in particular, and thats, Second Generation, a big sustained 6B (Eng tech) that has seen very little in the way of repeats, interestingly.
The old thread is worth it for the pictures. (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8250.0.html)
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Whats wrong with ya Munkii? Know what you mean about not wanting to have anything to do with even armchair bouldering whilst injured. I never understand the common theme of letters in eg Urban Climber Magazine where the respondant says how reading UCMag kept him/her sane whist recovering from injury etc etc. I can't bear the tedium of being injured whilst watching a world that isnt. In fact I acutally think the despertation to get back asap, incalculated by concurrent armchair scene gazing will often cause prolongment of the injury. Stay well away I say. Walk the dog and get to bed earlier.
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I hope this doesn't mean the almost-legendary 1 trillion pull-ups thread is going down the shitter??
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Mainly at High rocks i could ring off a few, but i will mention one in particular, and thats, Second Generation, a big sustained 6B (Eng tech) that has seen very little in the way of repeats, interestingly.
Little in the way of repeats for a 6b probably because it's never been 6b and has been rightly upgraded back to 6c in the new guide. Why Mike Vetterlein decided to downgrade it in the last guide I've no idea. I'd done nearly every route on SS graded 6c when I did the FA and thought Second Generation was way harder than most of em.
How have you got on on it Averageman? I'd be interested to know what sort of state it's in hold wise in comparison to when I did it. Be nice if it's still the same route.
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Big year this one (they all are when you dream a bit).
Maybe I'll finally do 7b this year, maybe I'll just manage 6c. Who knows who cares. main aims are to have fun cracking problems with my friends, try not to get injured, try not to feel old.....visit new places and enjoy different rock.
bien
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Got some local projects down here on the sandstone, but my knowledge of good problems elsewhere is limited, so am open to suggestions as to a good test piece, a real milestone at its grade. Something in the 7a+ 7b arena, (not sure of the v grade equivalent). Peaks area down to font.
try cock o the rock at stanage (i know its only 7a)
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Little in the way of repeats for a 6b probably because it's never been 6b and has been rightly upgraded back to 6c in the new guide. Why Mike Vetterlein decided to downgrade it in the last guide I've no idea. I'd done nearly every route on SS graded 6c when I did the FA and thought Second Generation was way harder than most of em.
How have you got on on it Averageman? I'd be interested to know what sort of state it's in hold wise in comparison to when I did it. Be nice if it's still the same route.
At the moment of course its not in condition, but as soon as it is i will get on it. Also i will make sure i get it all on film, it will be interesting because i believe i am shorter then you at 5ft8, so the fof may not be an option for me and, like most things, i have to find my own way. 6c you say i did not notice that, anyway looks like a great line and i am keen.
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try cock o the rock at stanage (i know its only 7a)
I may be up that way soon, so i will check it out.
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I would have thought the FOF would still work for someone of 5' 8". Hope it dries out for you!
The page from the new guide is here.....
http://climbers-club.co.uk/downloads/sandstone.pdf (http://climbers-club.co.uk/downloads/sandstone.pdf)
Shame they got the date of the first ascent as 1981 (when I was 6). It was actually 24/06/1990.
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Good stuff Jasper, keep an eye on the YYFY thread later this year, its going down.
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Jasper, can't do this quoting thing. 1969-1981 was the date of the first aided ascent. Your first free ascent date is correctly entered at the back of the book.
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Oh I see. As in nobody knows when the first aided ascent was (sometime between those dates)?
Was assuming it was first aided ascent and FFA. Sorry! :-[
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Good stuff Jasper, keep an eye on the YYFY thread later this year, its going down.
I should venture back on the sandstone this year, seeing as it's the nearest climbing to my miserable hovel...
I think I might be a bit rusty for Second Generation, but a man needs a challenge.
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Buy more vests, get a walk in wardrobe for said vests, wear more vests and get a pet otter
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Buy more vests, get a walk in wardrobe for said vests, wear more vests and get a pet otter
:lol:
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Buy more vests, get a walk in wardrobe for said vests, wear more vests and get a pet otter
^^^ that!!
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Hey Average Man
Forget second generation, try Chimera it's a much better looking line...
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Hey where's that karma come from...thanks, I just think sometimes we all get bogged down in grades and training and really the main aim is to enjoy it and discover new places, vistas and all. Climb hard and have a social life. Oh and just picking up from another thread, if you're injured stay away from the climbing, don't read any books on climbing, definitely don't watch any bouldering videos, and subscribe to rambler magazine if you're that sad....
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and subscribe to rambler magazine if you're that sad....
You can get that free when you buy tickets to see 'Keane'
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Whats wrong with ya Munkii? Know what you mean about not wanting to have anything to do with even armchair bouldering whilst injured. I never understand the common theme of letters in eg Urban Climber Magazine where the respondant says how reading UCMag kept him/her sane whist recovering from injury etc etc. I can't bear the tedium of being injured whilst watching a world that isnt. In fact I acutally think the despertation to get back asap, incalculated by concurrent armchair scene gazing will often cause prolongment of the injury. Stay well away I say. Walk the dog and get to bed earlier.
totally agree.
hairline fracture in my elbow.
no more pull ups for me. :P
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and subscribe to rambler magazine if you're that sad....
You can get that free when you buy tickets to see 'Keane'
Keane, associated with Rambler magazine, do you think possibly, thats their target audience.
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Right then campers, it's been six months, thats fifty percent or half the year gone. So how we doing? Half the list ticked or not? Line up your successes and excuses here. I'll go first.
1) Jess's Roof, Almscliff - This is a rollover from '08. NOT TRIED
2) Jerry's Traverse, Stanage - Another rollover.NOT TRIED
3) Keelhaul, Almscliff - Have worked this a bit in '08 one BIG move for me.ICED LIKE A REALLY NICE CAKE
4) Jasons Roof, Crookrise - Never even touched this but it has a reputation for aceness, I reserve the right to replace this problem when I realise it's way beyond me NOT TRIED
5) Marks Roof, Gardoms - Tried this in summer '07 and sweated off the last move, never been back. NOT TRIED
6) Something in Wales WENT TO THE CAVE AND GOT ON LOU FERINO AND ROCKATTROCITY BUT NO SUCCESS, YET
7) Shallow Grave RH, Trowbarrow - Tried this year and fell of the last move several times, find it very reachy. NOT TRIED
Cool Isla De Encata, Trowbarrow - God what am I thinking? Had a brief mess on this the other day and whilst it felt dirty hard it did feel vaguely possible. Obviously I'm totally dreaming here and I again reserve the right to replace this. NOT TRIED
9) Something at St Bees WENT AND DID SOME STUFF AND FAILED ON SOME OTHER STUFF
10) Something in Northumberland NOT TRIED
So two successes one failed attempt and a lot of not trying. Got a busy six months ahead I think...
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1. To get below 12.5 stone. Not tried
2. To get fit and strong. Failed
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0. Recover from debilitating elbow injury. - YES, it's just gradually improved over spring until now it's barely an issue, the occasional mild ache but it doesn't affect my climbing. Hurrah.
Then, carried over:
1. Climb remaining E2-4 routes in Lleyn section of North Wales Rock before spring. - NO, wasn't fit enough and got distracted with other stuff.
2. Climb abroad on either Scandinavian granite or German/Czech sandstone. - NO, unfortunately unlikely to get organised this year =(
3. Go on whatever bouldering / sport trips abroad are available. - NO, circumstances and fitness again, and now it's probably too warm for a bit.
4. Hang out with my mates more and do more climbing with them. - Yes, a bit, mostly local sport climbing.
5. Climb a few remaining inspirations at Nesscliffe, Baggy, a few esoteric odds and sods, and on grit. - Yes to Nesscliffe, which was ace, Yes to some Mid-Wales stuff, also ace, No to everything else so far. Still very keen but circumstances have prevented, need to get more focused this summer.
An extremely mixed bag so far. Really mostly pottering around, which is mildly pleasurable, but only rarely following deep and exciting inspirations. I need to summon more determination and action.
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1. Buckstone Dyno- tried one day, should go next time (don't they always?) Not been back to try it.
2. Fight on Black (Widdop)- Got the psych back to try it now. TICK
3. Picnic Sarcastic +/- SDS- Got close on a brief session years ago, didn't go back in 08 Brief try a while back that failed miserably
4. West Side Story Didn't try it in 08 Not been back to try it.
5. Jerry's Arete (Bridestones) Should be acheivable Made progress, just waiting for cool weather. Honest.
6. Sloping Beauty (Earl) Need to get back and try it again Not been back to try it.
7. Underhand (Almscliff)- Got the numbers, need to go and finish it off. Not been back to try it.
8. Beachball (Secret Garden)- Stupid, stupid, bastard problem. TICK
9. Clash of the Titans (St Bees)- Still not been, aaaaargh. Tried it after falling in a big hole, so not the best attempts
10. Big Marine (Craig Y Longridge)- Tried it once when wet. Need to go back Why do I find this soooo hard?
11. Bust a finger and not be able to crimp for a few months TICK
Can I change my remaining problems to things that are slopey, and font 6b?
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Back in January, my aims were:
E7 on-sight Yes, From a Distance, Pembs
The Groove F8a+ I don't think this is going to happen this year, as i've ended up focussing on the trad. If I go to France later this month, it might be a project for September.
Font 7c+ in Font Nope! Was hoping to try Misericorde in Feb. Did Berezina and L'Arrache Coeur, which I was pleased with.
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Good idea Nik, to have an update.
2 and a half months not climbing at the top end of the year has made me shit and weak, but then again these are all excuses... Not a single aim ticked so far, but I've added more good problems to the list (those in bold). Some limited progress though
The arete (Denham splash area)NOT TRIED
The arete (Denham Mohammed area)NOT TRIED
pickpocket direct (Denham) 1 hot sweaty grease-session - got to the little undercut/small pocket thing, felt ok. need to finish off
Low break traverse (Brownstones) tried this a few times, felt reasonable but find the start hard, need to get back on it
Satisfying sloper problem (Brownstones) NOT TRIED
Hacker start (Wilton 1) cos it's close and looks good - NOT TRIED
Verdinand (Brownstones)NOT TRIED
Burnt Heather (Thorn) before it gets polished... shame it's such an arse to get up there NOT TRIED
Catfoot (Round Barn) awesome, although feels really high. need to get back on this NOT TRIED
Staffs Flyer (Roaches)something I've wanted to do for a while and never got round to NOT TRIED, rained off 3 sessions, boo!
Nexus dyno (Brownstones) erm, tried about 28 times, always a cm off - need to sort out timings...
Boopers (Brownstones) still not bloody topped out, although it's a only a matter of time! had one good session at this, can't move off past the break,
Pond Traverse (Brownstones) easy, but always get knackered, also the pond only gets dry for about 4 weeks a year... good progress on this, should be finished off before long if I can get the stamina up
Lancashire PotHot (Brownstones) Couldn't get off the floor
Elemental (Thorn) find this fine until the rockover... just can't nail it though NOT TRIED
Brian Jacques (Cadshaw) not tried it yet but looks awesome NOT TRIED
Groundhog standing start (Brownstones) ha ha yeah right
so in conclusion, pretty poor performance really. reassessment has meant recently adding a few more problems that are likely to be within range and Groundhog/Brian Jacques may well be dropped. Added a couple of easys to get the ball rolling. Looks like I'd better get on with it then... some fitness and a dose of focus should get a few of these ticked before long.
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- an 8A/V11 (either bloc or long problem - I ain't fussy for the first one!) NOPE (must have been up on myself when I wrote this, still feels a long way off)
- enjoy sport climbing in the UK - Hmmm got sucked into bouldering abd belaying at Kilnsey
- go on a sport climbing trip for the first time - traded up for a summer bouldering trip :)
- not go the Font - so far so good!
- be regimented with fingerboarding (i.e write down a schedule and goals and stick to it) YES! Thank you Beastmaker
- have fun in Bishop - It would be hard not to, looking forward to another trip back already.
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1 come back from Font without fucked elbows. Yes!!
2 Jocks Sitting ERR NO
3 Monty pythons Sitting no
4 Hitch Hikers from block as above
5 Rose and unemployed Bus. Man and again as above
6 Tidy up some of the 7a's I have started in Font and try carnage no but did a new one
7 Get to Bowder Stone no
8 Boulder in the Pass yes... IT's Top
9 Do some more Peak limestone- miss bouldering on it! not yet but the lime have been called!
10 Loose a couple of lbs more and do a 10 mile road race in sub 25 mins 26 mins so far
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Get down here and have some bouldering fun times Si. Malham too!
A few boulder problems;
Rockattrocity - no visits to the cave yet this year, but I think Lou Ferrino would be more my style anyway.
Jerry's roof - no visits to the pass either
Famous Grouse - fell of the top of this so many times
Brad Pitt - smashed it in the box
Full Power - not tried it yet
Bens Roof - had 2 sessions trying to get somewhere with it, done the moves but scarcely linking more than a few moves together
Boulder abroad somewhere other than Font. - Nope
Close the 2.5 CoC (Remember they are useless though). - Can I fuck, working reps on the 2 still.
Spend some time sport climbing and learn how to do it properly, perhaps climb 8a? - Going out tomorrow for the first time this year
Reduce alcohol consumption. -erm...
Increase cv exercise by cycling to work. - fucked cycling off but am walking a lot now I own a dog
Improve my portfolio (art not shares). - have yet to do any work outside office hours
Buy first house with The little drummer girl. - scary, but done.
Burn Matt Wrigley and Sharik off - Matt burned himself off and Sharik fled the country in fear of the burning offingness.
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10 Loose a couple of lbs more and do a 10 mile road race in sub 25 mins 26 mins so far
I'm highly impressed with that!
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i hope thats on a bike or somebodys in th wrong sport.
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Onsight some E5's in the mountains or seacliffs Not yet, but this will happen.. maybe Peak Lime and Grit though.
Boulder Font 7b - Done several 7a+'s so feel confident I'll do this by year end.. Thanks to the Beastmaker boys and oodles of psyche.
Lead a 7c Nearly - Should have one redpointed within a month or two the way things are going
Edale Skyline and a couple of the classic Lakes races - No - Got too psyched for climbing.
Get back to playing the guitar with more regularity - No. But rediscovered my enthusiasm for making bleeps and bangers. Watch this space
Get weight below 12 stone - Yes!. Dropped 3/4 stone since Chrimbo and now just hovering around 12
Drink less - Yes!. Dramatically cut down from nearly every night to barely a drop in the week
Had my best years climbing ever so far I think in terms of enjoyment and achievements. Just loving it so much at the moment.
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yes on my shiney new scott adict road bike... and that was on a windy day recon to take 30 seconds off that on a good night... will be trying again tomorrow...
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1) The Joker Waiting for winter
2) The Groove - Malham On the cards for autumn
3) Supercool - Still on cards for autumn
4) Urgent Action - Kilnsey Next on the list after The thumb
5) Finish off loose ends on the routes from this year. Done a few, not all. Will tidy up more later in year
6) Flash 7c+ Have flashed a few more 7c's, so still possible. May need trip to spain!
7) Climb an 8b still on course
8) Go to Albarricin possible weekend later in year
9) Iron Man Iced!
10) Caviar - Rubicon Sure this will go in good conditions
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1. Jerry's Roof (The pass) - Done
2. Lou Ferrino (cave) - Done
3. Trigger Cut (cave) - Done but am now struggling to repeat! :-\
4. Jess's Roof (Almscliff) - Still not been - saving it till Winter
5. Fallen Idol (roche) - Got close twice this year, will be minging now till Autumn
6. Lizard King (The pass) - done!
7. Brass Monkeys (Stanage) - Not been back on it in 09, another for winter
8. Sparks (pantymwyn) - Done first session back there in a year :)
9. Vitruvian Man (Trowbarrow) - Done, amazing move
10. Pit of Hell (cave) - Had my first few goes back on it this year and felt a lot stronger on it now, will go soon with some effort I hope
Not the worst first half to 09, going to have to pull my finger out to get pit of hell boxed off and confident of getting the others done with little trouble. Have made some extra goals for the 2nd half of 09:
11. Halfway House - Have climbed into TC but powering out early, needs a lot of work (need P.E. and more strength)
12. Mr Fantastic - Climbed through to bus stop slap to edge but fail here, (need P.E. and more strength)
13. Lou Ferrino sans pocket - Have tried the moves last night and got them ok in minging conditions, look forward to redpointing this :)
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Just realised the colour coding you guys used. Oops.
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:rtfm: :spank:
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Get with the program, Lincoln ::)
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1/ Get my shoulder back to 100% Almost there
2/ Big trip to the Gramps to tick of some stuff in HMC TICK only managed Wimmelfriedhoff in the cave but was happy with that as its awesome
3/ Learn to drive Didn't even try......
Shoulder is mended now so I'm training properly and giving a real go to these new fangled hangboard methods. Got get a partial menisectomy on my knee but that shouldn't set me back for long. In fact, it will force me to stick with the hangboard as I won't be able to do much else.
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I have only one aim for 2009: DON'T GET INJURED. So far, so good
If I achieve that then I want to follow in the path of the Mighty Messrs Haston & Bolger and tick 8c+, then if I achieve that I want to tick
1) The Groove, Malham. Nailed it
2) Mecca Extension Got quite close, then events, dear boy, events...
3) Unjustified. Not tried it yet
But not necessarily in that order. I'd take a font 8b tick as well if I could find one I could do. But mostly DON'T GET INJURED.
Although clearly the 8c+ and font 8b aren't happening this year, they might next year - if I DON'T GET INJURED...
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Conehead ticked ;D
Grooved Arete Made most excellent progress, will go down this year
Overnite Sensation Been on, sacked off until a) it's colder and b) I'm stronger
Bouldering Made some progress, need to do lots more though
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Climbing aims:
Main one is to not get injured, as I was for the pretty much the last half of '08 - if so... - OK so far...
Boulder Font 7b - Nowhere near
Trad E5 - Nope
I'll shamelessly take Mr Popp's 'genuine reason to post in YYFY' - When I get Breakfast I will be!
Non climbing:
Avoid getting the chop in the round of redundancies that are currently going off at my work - Epic Fail
Get finances under control - See above
Get some core strength - See above - at least being made redundant meant I lived in The Works for a while
Run 20 miles a week - Getting there - running on lunchtimes at work, c. 12 miles a week
11k+ powerball - Back. Of. The. Net.
So, in 7 months I've only managed to rinse out the Powerball, and not a great deal else. On the plus side I bouldered on Peak Lime for the first time evar, that must go down as a result.
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mmmmmmm.....
1. Embrace parenthood TICK! Loving it. though see next...
2. Combine 1 with maintaining some sort of form.Hmmmm. Only been twice since the bab, don't seem to have lost too much, but really need to wait till font in Autumn to really tell.
3. Compete to my own satisfaction in an off road race. Not yet. Was due to do a short fell race at the end of last month, but opened my toe up rather badly whilst out yachting with the family (rah rah!)
4. Hue, Rocher du Cassepot. (but any 7c'll do I supppose) Thing is, see, there just isn't that much at Cassepot, and one has to persuade others to go too, something I have thus far not succeeded in.
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Bouldering wise, i'm not that ambitious...
Climb a few more 7a's and hopefully another 7a+...
i.e Hitchhikers from the block.
Then while in the peak this coming winter, do stuff I wasn't strong/good enough for last year like trackside and the green traverse, which will both probably feel very very easy.
Also would like to do some more trad routes with my fellow experienced twice my age partner while in the lakes soon. But I am a bit of a wimp and cant get the hang of setting up a belay after leading something, idiot.. :wall:
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a baby and a broken finger has put pay to this year...
would rather not have broken the finger but....
as for the baby - no regrets there despite the sleepless nights ;D
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My aim for 2009 is to tap the back of my hand in the slot on Rock Attrocity instead of having my hand in there and not tapping it 4 times in a sweaty row as per usual.
*The ss to Hitchhikers (Nik, would have thought this right up your street by the sounds of things)
*Moreau's Island (just need a month doing big snatches on campus or deploy filthy crimp/deadpoint beta)
*Aeon (get there not in heat of summer and it's done)
These three would leave me happy.
Pretty much went into party mode/girl hunting straight after writing this. Needless to say I ceased climbing for the most part and drifted further from these goals. About a month ago, I found psyche again and started training. Made first visit to cave in a year and got to slot on RA but gassed out. Pretty psyched though now.
SS to Hitchikers - Not been to Northumberland yet
Aeon - Realised it's log. Sack.
Moreau's Island - Realised it's even more log. Sack.
Major psyche to climb at crag x and the cobble. See what can be done.
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Aeon isn't log. And Moreau's Island ain't, except for the block.
Unless your definition of "log" is "quality Silverdale problems I can't do" :lol:
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1. Train properly for a change.
2. Finally address arm weakness (see 1).
3. Finish off the sitter to The Pinch at Crag X.
4. Climb 7C in Font (preferably Hotline) weather permitting (will probably only get a week there).
5. Go to The County.
6. Get out more.
7. Play Hard.
8. Great White.
9. Go to the Orme and climb on The Box.
10. Climb 8A (this is probably subject to 1 & 2 and definitely 6).
HA HA FUCKING HA!
How about: Never have more than three weeks without getting crocked somehow, have no time to climb or train properly cos of work / injury etc, lose all motivation and do fuck all?
On a more positive note; We had a lovely time at Neil's place in May doing loads of easy stuff, I've pretty much doubled my personal client portfolio in the last six months (which is nice in a recession and very welcome when things aren't going so well for my "employers") and my son is a little diamond and my wife makes me very happy.
So keeping things in perspective, the psyche is returning and don't write me off just yet as if I can come back from 12 years off I'm sure I can cope with a poor six months.
Now, about that arm weakness....... :-[
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Aeon isn't log. And Moreau's Island ain't, except for the block.
Unless your definition of "log" is "quality Silverdale problems I can't do" :lol:
Not being able to do a problem doesn't make it log. Some problems in life ought to have time devoted to them to be solved and others ought to remain mere inconveniences. When I look deep into my soul, I think the aforementioned problems are as such.
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Yeah, but the stupid thing is you (well, I) often get sucked into a stupid problem that isn't worth it really, but you (I) just have to keep trying until you (I) get it. [I'd have used "One" but I ain't posh enough]
But I guess that's what bouldering's about.
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I've always put a book down at a certain point if it hasn't captivated me in a particular way and suppose I do the same with problems really. I'm no stickler for frustration that inevitably leads to no real feeling of joy I guess
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I just don't like things getting the better of me, I suppose :lol: I just don't know when to quit.
You're being very philosophical today, very deep ;D
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You're being very philosophical today, very WEAK ;D
;)
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-Not get injured---JUST ABOUT
-Become able to have a conversation in Dutch. ---NAH LOST INTEREST AFTER GETTING THE SPANISH ARCHER (EL BOW)
-Find a pal (I do have pals, just not many in the current locale) ---NAH, SEE ABOVE
-Do a couple of sprint triathlons ---NOPE
-Go to a climbing wall occasionally ---DOES MY SHED COUNT?
-Go on 3 bouldering missions ,Font or elsewhere (alas a mission for me these days is another word for a weekend) ---COUGH
-Go surfing ---AHEM
-Red circuit somewhere in Font, Gorge Du Chats? ---HMMMM
-7a twice in one trip somewhere in Font - dynos not included. --OPEN MOCKING LAUGHTER
Got a lot to do the the last 6 months then....
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1. Buy the van and get it sorted.
Well I bought a van and that's where it all went a bit wrong - after 4 weeks at the auto electricians it is now having to go to VW to be sorted which is not going to be cheap. :(
6. Sport climbing trips - a rediscovered love after 3 years away....
I did manage to get 6 days in Italy before the van went to the auto electricians - maintained my standard of onsighting at 6a+ but nothing better.
As for the rest - the Peak based ones might be done if I can get some motivation going later in the year but it is not looking good at the minute for anything that involves any sort expenditure over the cost of a couple of pints...
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Ok, another one ticked off so an excuse to redo with correct colours this time :oops:
The Joker Winter
The Groove - Malham Autumn
Supercool - Gordale Autumn
Urgent Action - Kilnsey Next on list after finishing The Thumb
Finish off loose ends on the routes from this year. Getting there!
Flash 7c+ Flashed a few 7c's so nearly
Climb an 8b Still on the cards
Cool Go to Albarricin Not going to happen i dont think
Iron Man ICED
Caviar - Rubicon CHECK
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Climb something. Anything!
Would like to do a VS or HVS or E1 before the year is done. Doesn't matter what it is or whether I've don't it before. Anything will do.
Tickity tick. Have been climbing trad since May. Sort of did a VS on Skye when we went up part of The Snark. Decided to split the crux pitch at the halfway ledge after the overhanging crack section which had left me boxed. Mate couldn't do the technical bit and after the trials of the day we decided to back off. Still, a cool pic of me leading the crux here:
(http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs186.snc1/6240_758022491669_197809610_45971696_2778166_n.jpg)
Also led The Web the other day which sorts out the HVS standard.
Flashed The Edge Problem at the Cromlech Boulders too. V5 my arse.
Just need to onsight an E1 now.
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Go to Rylstone and do Hotline for your E1 tick.
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My only aim for 2009 was to climb a 7a.
I did that 2 weeks ago, so I'm going to pretend it didnt happen and climb another one.
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(http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs186.snc1/6240_758022491669_197809610_45971696_2778166_n.jpg)
That's a bloody impressive looking wall - think dusting off the trad rack ready for a trip to Skye might be in order sometime next year.
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The Edge Problem at the Cromlech Boulders too. V5 my arse.
The grade has been static for longer than you've been climbing. You don't get a medal for being lanky & light.
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Think you'll find I do, Houd. It says V5 flash on it.
Bluebrad, its a cool climb which I've done before but wanted to take some friends up it so went to Marsco again. It barely gets climbed and a lot of the rock is a little loose. A lot of the protection on the first pitch is also pretty poor. There's no topo for the crag so my main advice would be to get the guidebook out early and start to identify such things as the climb Slow Riser as soon as you can on the walk up. Don't get off route on the second pitch or you might end up on A Nasty Snarkcident (XS 4a).
Our plan was to do The Snark and then do the two HVSs there but after the monumental fuck up that occurred we ended up being on the one route all day and backing off. Events went something like this:
I lead first pitch. A little slowly due to the shit state of some of the pro.
Friend sets off up second pitch and climbs 50 metres. He then downclimbs 50 metres to the belay. I ask him in no uncertain terms what the fuck he's doing back here. He claims that he didn't reach the First Platform but in fact only found "a big fucking pile of loose scree". I could only assume that I had misremembered the route and so advised him on a different route he could take. He did it and God only knows why he didn't turn back when it became very very obvious that noone had been up that way before. He eventually took a terrible belay and I followed. Towards the top of the pitch I heard a distant cry of "Below" and then a terrifying and almighty sliding sound. I have never tried to make myself so small.
It turns out that the first way he'd gone was actually correct and he was just being soft. I led the overhanging crack bit (in the pic) and took a belay on the ledge above halfway through the pitch as I was boxed. He followed and attempted the technical crux (5a maybe and quite weird) but pulled/twisted/shafted something in his back whilst trying to do the stretch. We had had enough. It was cold and we'd been on the route for ages. I think I could have finished the route but we decided to sack it.
Two abseils and we're back down. I stand as far away from him as I can while he pulls down the ropes. As soon as they start to come he runs like hell expecting a shower of debris but luckily all was well. I then found something that somebody had abseiled off lying at the bottom of the crag. God knows why it wasn't nic and secure up on the wall. The nut was so rusted that when I bent the wire it was on it just broke like a twig.
Go and do The Snark. If you stay on route and aren't a soft lad it is excellent quality. Just pull those holds before weighting them. I guarantee that you will adore the crux pitch. The rock is solid and compact and the moves are great. The cracks that you climb are like they were made for climbing.
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Will,
My sense of eek should be rgistering soundly by now but for some reason I am still syked for this route - cheers for the info and have a wad point on behalf of your mate who actually downclimbed 50 bloody metres.
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With 3 months to go before Christmas I thought it was time for an update for the last quarter of the year - a pre-bouldering season recap:
The arete (Denham splash area) Nailed
The arete (Denham Mohammed area) yup
pickpocket direct (Denham) Beasted
Low break traverse (Brownstones) Aye lad
Satisfying sloper problem (Brownstones) Tried a few times in the summer when it was a bit warm - need to get on it soon
Hacker start (Wilton 1) cos it's close and looks good - NOT TRIED
Verdinand (Brownstones)NOT TRIED
Burnt Heather (Thorn) before it gets polished... shame it's such an arse to get up there NOT TRIED
Catfoot (Round Barn) awesome, although feels really high. need to get back on this NOT TRIED
Staffs Flyer (Roaches)something I've wanted to do for a while and never got round to NOT TRIED, rained off 3 sessions, boo!
Nexus dyno (Brownstones) erm, tried about 28 times, always a come off - need to sort out timings...
Boopers (Brownstones) still not bloody topped out, although it's a only a matter of time! had one good session at this, can't move off past the break,
Pond Traverse (Brownstones) done all of it in sections, now need the stamina...
Lancashire PotHot (Brownstones) Couldn't get off the floor
Elemental (Thorn) find this fine until the rockover... just can't nail it though
Brian Jacques (Cadshaw) Had a couple of sessions, but too hard right now. need to get stronger before getting back on this.
Groundhog standing start (Brownstones) ha ha yeah right
An improvement on last update inasmuch as I've actually climbed some of them :P but I need to ramp it up for the end of the year and get some more stuff done.
Anyone else?
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Flashed The Edge Problem at the Cromlech Boulders too. V5 my arse.
V6 unless you've got girl's fingers in which case yes V3 probably. Also minus 3 stars and the second worst move in Wales (after the Cenotaph Corner crux).
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Flashed The Edge Problem at the Cromlech Boulders too. V5 my arse.
V6 unless you've got girl's fingers in which case yes V3 probably. Also minus 3 stars and the second worst move in Wales (after the Cenotaph Corner crux).
:agree:
Though I might be biased. Spotted a guy on this in March (I'd given up cos its 'orrible). He got spat off the top and I ended up with a black eye and some busted glasses for my troubles. Ah well, call of duty I suppose..... :)
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So its almost that time again. As i am away now, this is how it will stand end of December.
1) The Joker
2) The Groove - Malham
3) Supercool - Gordale
4) Urgent Action - Kilnsey
5) Finish off loose ends on the routes from this year. Yep, lots tidied up
6) Flash 7c+ flashed two 8a's, both very very soft7) Climb an 8b
8) Go to Albarricin
9) Iron Man
10) Caviar - Rubicon[/]
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Climbing aims:
Main one is to not get injured, as I was for the pretty much the last half of '08 - if so... - was OK, now I've fucked my ankle / Achilles falling over pissed so I'm gonna be laid up for a bit
Boulder Font 7b - Not yet, but felt like I was getting stronger pre-injury
Trad E5 - Nope
I'll shamelessly take Mr Popp's 'genuine reason to post in YYFY' - I'll roll this over to next year and say that Demon Wall Roof would be a decent enough reason for me!
Non climbing:
Avoid getting the chop in the round of redundancies that are currently going off at my work - Epic Fail, but I'm back in the world of the taxpayer now
Get finances under control - After Xmas I'll be fine
Get some core strength - Slightly better, though a return to desk work has messed this up!
Run 20 miles a week - Good progress on this - done plenty while working, even ran a couple of 10k races in sub 50 times
11k+ powerball - Back. Of. The. Net.
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God like mine mean anything in the context of the latter half of this year. Well I can walk, climb E2 again, and am 4 hours closer to Scottish climbing, in the circumstances that's a tick of sorts.
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- more big trad e6s (skinhead, dreams and screams, jub-jub, king wad, MSND, lots in pembroke, more in ireland etc)
- a big trad e7 onsight/flash
- get back to ireland
- get to scotland
A big fat fail, since I barely climbed any trad this year. I did get to Scotland but only because I had to for a summer placement, and then it rained lots so I only did a few days of trad. Given current plans that looks unlikely to change much in 2010, but maybe the year after that I'll get my balls back
- solo caveman then have the balls to jump off after the traverse pitch Never went down that way. A wimp and a slacker.
- onsight more 7c/7c+s and maybe flash 8a Crushed like a bitch. Lots of 7cs, a few 7c+s, 7c+/8a onsight and 8a flash. Chuffed. Quite a few should-of, could-of, would-ofs though - need to work on my killer instinct (and maybe not listen to Bob's wack faggoty foot beta too much).
- redpoint 8b Nope. Need to get some redpointing psyche.
- more euro sport love, and get some good dws done Decent bit of euro sun but no DWS at all:(
- 7C+ on lime (ben's roof or PUTP maybe) Ben's and tumbleweed
- 8A (and even more optimistically, careless torque GU) Not really, but since others seem to be taking 8A for tumbleweed I'll award myself the 'kind-of' tick.
- go back to font Nope, but going in Jan so that's ok
oh, and decide what I want to do with my life. Getting there... Year-of-power followed by PhD seems to be the order of the day.
Despite all the red there I'm still pleased with the year.
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Not get injured -fail
Boulder more - fail
trad more - fail
Ski more - fail
have a good snowboard trip - tick
surf more (esp away from home) - tick on more, but not way from home
get to Hebrides - fail
MTB more - fail
Plus side was some great bolt clipping in the Alps that was unexpected and week of great weather in N Wales.
injury partly to blame, but other exciting events transpired that thwarted other plans!
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1. Jerry's Roof (The pass) - Tick
2. Lou Ferrino (cave) - Tick
3. Trigger Cut (cave) - Tick
4. Jess's Roof (Almscliff) - Fell off at end, not sure I am that arsed doing it anymore as it hurts my skin... a lot!
5. Fallen Idol (roche) - Not been back on
6. Lizard King (The pass) - Tick
7. Brass Monkeys (Stanage) - Tick
8. Sparks (pantymwyn) - Tick
9. Vitruvian Man (Trowbarrow) - Tick
10. Pit of Hell (cave) - Dropped last move a ridiculous number of times, hopefully get it this year still! :boohoo:
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Well that wasn't a very successful year for you was it!
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My aims for 2009 and beyond
non-climbing:
1. strike perfect balance between riding to work (>fatigue) and training (<psyche)
2. strike perfect balance between mates and the missus
3. strike perfect balance between incomings and outgoings (financial)
4. strike perfect work vs life balance
5. strike perfect relatives/old friend visiting balance
6. be a good earth citizen and decent better human being (7 lashes with the cat for a trip to CA)
7. swear less
climbing:
1. have fun and enjoy the journey, not just the destination
2. Pope's Prow, Green Wall, Fly Boy, Bard/Leary Arete LH, Saigon, Soulslinger (?), Jedi Mind Tricks (choked), Iron Man (weak) - Buttermilks
3. get highballing and learn how to top out again (the above list should help me with these)
4. Blockbuster, New Jerusalem, Secret Seventh, Crystal Meth, Ben's Groove (?) - Caley Roadside
5. Banana Split, Back Stabber SS, Pedestal Arete, Chicken Run, Creme Egg Eliminate - Caley Crag
6. Almscliffe (the whole crag)
what a depressing year it has been
epic FAIL
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My only aim for 2009 was to climb a 7a.
I did that 2 weeks ago, so I'm going to pretend it didnt happen and climb another one.
Well, I did climb 7a but didn't climb another one. I'm not sure where I stand!? :shrug:
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Conehead ticked
Grooved Arete Made most excellent progress, will go down this year. No it didn't >:(
Overnite Sensation Been on, sacked off until a) it's colder and b) I'm stronger Not been back on it since.
Bouldering Made some progress, need to do lots more though. As before, but I've only been out bouldering twice since June, it's not unexpected. I do finally have some project's though.
All told it's been a good year. Apart from falling off the last move of GA repeatedly >:( Next year, next year...
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Didn't you quit climbing completely at one point this year, definitely no doubt, stop completely?
Or was that last year already?
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Last year already. I'm in semi-retirement ;)
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It was the shortest retirement of all time! :lol:
I've had longer off this year by being injured. :(
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what do you want to achieve in 2009?
climbing or non climbing.
climbing - continuing to find new grit pearls where everyone least expects them.
non climbing - a home and a little lodger.
Climbing goal ticked plus some limestone pearls too, takes me back to my youth.
Non-climbing - the second part hindered the first but he's worth every effort.
I shall set more specifically for next year.
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Onsight some E5's in the mountains or seacliffs Not yet, but this will happen.. maybe Peak Lime and Grit though. Nope..
Boulder Font 7b - Done several 7a+'s so feel confident I'll do this by year end.. Thanks to the Beastmaker boys and oodles of psyche. Nope Tennis Elbow and then illness intervened although the year is not yet out and Boba Fett is waiting.
Lead a 7c Got injured when I was a redpoint away from doing Lightweight.
Edale Skyline and a couple of the classic Lakes races - No - Got too psyched for climbing.
Get back to playing the guitar with more regularity - Not really.
Get weight below 12 stone - Yes!. Dropped 3/4 stone since Chrimbo and now just hovering around 12 Now 11 3/4 - Tick
Drink less - Yes!. Dramatically cut down from nearly every night to barely a drop in the week
In spite of picking up Tennis Elbow in August and not climbing since then I had a great year overall. Really pushed my sport climbing redpointing several 7b's and flashing a 7a+; did some great trad routes and bouldering. Didn't travel anywhere which was a mistake - must get out on the road more next year.
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ok here's a brief overview of 2009, got some stuff done that I really wanted to do, which is good although clearly could have got more done... weather, opportunity,excuses etc...
The arete (Denham splash area) yes
The arete (Denham Mohammed area) yes
pickpocket direct (Denham) yes
Low break traverse (Brownstones) yes
Satisfying sloper problem (Brownstones) tried it quite a bit, but failed
Hacker start (Wilton 1) cos it's close and looks good - NOT TRIED
Verdinand (Brownstones)NOT TRIED
Burnt Heather (Thorn) slapped the sloper, no further but not really tried very hard
Catfoot (Round Barn) awesome, although feels really high. need to get back on this NOT TRIED
Staffs Flyer (Roaches)something I've wanted to do for a while and never got round to NOT TRIED, rained off 3 sessions in 2009, lost the urge....
Nexus dyno (Brownstones) erm, tried about 28 times, always a come off - need to sort out timings / MTFU
Boopers (Brownstones) yes!! big tick this, for me...
Pond Traverse (Brownstones) done all of it in sections, now need the stamina...
Lancashire PotHot (Brownstones) can't get off the floor
Elemental (Thorn) find this fine until the rockover... excuses...
Brian Jacques (Cadshaw) a bridge too far.
Groundhog standing start (Brownstones) ha ha yeah right
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1. Get to the Bugaboos, or similar amazing alpine rock venue where topping out means topping fucking out. Went on the Grand Capucin, but didn't top out.
2. Do some surfing, learn to turn Did some surfing, not much turning.
3. Take at least one photo that earns me five stars in Lightroom. Epic fail. Bagged a cover though, maybe I'm too harsh.
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1. Get to the Bugaboos, or similar amazing alpine rock venue where topping out means topping fucking out. Went on the Grand Capucin, but didn't top out.
2. Do some surfing, learn to turn Did some surfing, not much turning.
3. Take at least one photo that earns me five stars in Lightroom. Epic fail. Bagged a cover though, maybe I'm too harsh.
you did better than me in lightroom word I reckon. I managed 1 or 2 stars at best. Next year I'm aiming to take a climbing pic that's not shit.
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I have only one aim for 2009: DON'T GET INJURED.
Big tick. Not entirely niggle free, but my first year without serious injury for as long as I can remember. Perhaps it's not a coincidence, but...
...I want to tick
1) The Groove, Malham. - tick
2) Mecca Extension - tick
3) Unjustified - tick
tock.
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I have only one aim for 2009: DON'T GET INJURED.
Big tick. Not entirely niggle free, but my first year without serious injury for as long as I can remember.
Have you done anything differently this year, for the benefit of those who were less successful?
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Climbing:
Bouldering
Put away a few of my long term projects. Any from:
- Earl: Sloping Beauty... None, Earl continues to utterly spank me.
- Almscliff: Underhand (surely it can't hold out for a third year)... Underhand and its extension went, as did The Keel and Fieldside (and Top Cat as a bonus). Pistol Whip awaits a meeting in the presence of people willing to spot me. The rest are rollovers
- Brimham: Titfield Thunderbolt, The Long Haul, Crimpy Roof. Yup to all (with Pinky Trav and Ian's Trav into the bargain).
- Ilkley: Ringpiece, First Arete (even though it's pretty horrible). Failures all around
- Caley: Ben's Groove (spotters / lack of self-preservation required). Still awaiting spottage
- Slipstones: Layby Arete Annoying failure, and I've been soooo close
Also, get to the Peak more and mop up a few of the classics, return to the County and/or Wales. I was too lazy before I got a job... now I'm just too tired for anything but convenience crags
Roped shizzle
- Consolidate E2 trad...Yep... led a fair few E2
- Make inroads into E3, especially the limestone classics...Nope... don't think I even tried a single E3. A weak excuse I know, but everywhere I tradded, the E3s seemed to be really bold, rather than just harder than the E2s
- Do more sport routes and get some proper climbing fitness.... I'm currently limited by my inability to climb anything that doesn't comprise crimpy cruxes interspersed by good rests! Nope... did bugger-all UK sport and my El Chorro holiday showed that I'm still best at routes that can be done in an almighty hurry before I pump out!
Non-Climbing
- Get a job... preferably one that doesn't make me hate myself ... Now gainfully employed - in the satch!
- Move out of my parent's house... Not yet, waiting until I pass my probation period and know whether I'll be relocated
- Stop eating so much cake... Nope.... cakes are psychic self-defence against the horrors of modern life... and working in a town with a Betty's has made it if anything worse....mmmm.. Fat Rascals...
- Start playing the guitar again. Nope.... another one that'll have to await getting my own gaff
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Bouldering wise, i'm not that ambitious...
Climb a few more 7a's and hopefully another 7a+...
i.e Hitchhikers from the block.
Then while in the peak this coming winter, do stuff I wasn't strong/good enough for last year like trackside and the green traverse, which will both probably feel very very easy.
Also would like to do some more trad routes with my fellow experienced twice my age partner while in the lakes soon. But I am a bit of a wimp and cant get the hang of setting up a belay after leading something, idiot.. :wall:
Forgot I even put this here.. however it was only half a year ago, so how have I done?
climbed more 7a's- Yep
climbed one other 7a+- Yep, but still havent done hitchhikers off the block, plus i've climbed one 7b+, joy
Peak wise- well the weather was rubbish, did get trackside though.
Lakes trad- this is probably my favourite.. did MGC at shepherds onsight and my partner lived after he seconded me. Really special to me since I had only lead a VD and a S before looking at this E2 and thinking it looks brill and I know I can do it.
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as far as real aims go, i have too much to write them down here!!!
in general:
- continue training and improving ----- TICK
- climb better ----- HAEM...
- travel a bit more to swizzy ----- WELL, TWO TIMES IS MORE THAN ONE
- get back to font ----- BIG BIG FAIL BUT I'VE WATCHED KEITH'S FILM
- get back to uk for longer (again)!!!! ----- ENORMOUS FAIL
- gain half a grade at least on one problem!!! ----- HUGELY TICKED
;D
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1. Buckstone Dyno Nope
2. Fight on Black (Widdop) Yep
3. Picnic Sarcastic Nope
4. West Side Story Didn't try it at all
5. Jerry's Arete (Bridestones) Made some progress
6. Sloping Beauty (Earl) Got the first move done :lol:
7. Underhand (Almscliff) Nope, finger doesn't like it
8. Beachball (Secret Garden) Yeeeeeeeees
9. Clash of the Titans (St Bees) Nope
10. Big Marine (Craig Y Longridge) Spanked me again
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I don't remember posting any aims, but I have achieved a few things that I am well pleased with.
Managed a whole year without finger injury.
Kept off the stone I lost and thereby avoided obesity.
Went a whole year without any medication more serious than ibuprofen and only 7 days off work due to sickness; which led to...
Finally managed to get life insurance - which I had previously been unable to obtain from anywhere due to my history of very poor health and unacceptable risk taking.
Caught more wild brown trout on dry fly than any working man deserves in one season.
Scored a baby that sleeps (I am embarrassed how easy she is to look after :-[ )
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I have only one aim for 2009: DON'T GET INJURED.
Big tick. Not entirely niggle free, but my first year without serious injury for as long as I can remember.
Have you done anything differently this year, for the benefit of those who were less successful?
I've done everything differently this year to be honest. Completely changed my approach to training and got a lot more easy mileage in to boot. Too many changes to go into in depth but a lot of it is probably luck...