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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: GraemeA on December 11, 2008, 11:59:11 am

Title: BMC done good
Post by: GraemeA on December 11, 2008, 11:59:11 am
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=2880 (http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=2880)
Title: Re: BMC done good
Post by: BenF on December 11, 2008, 12:10:01 pm
Fantastic.  A great effort and thanks to all involved in securing the access, lets hope no-one buggers it up again.
Title: Re: BMC done good
Post by: Fiend on December 11, 2008, 12:20:29 pm
Good news, respect to all those involved.
Title: Re: BMC done good
Post by: fatboySlimfast on December 11, 2008, 12:25:53 pm
good stuff, mojo and great wall are really good routes......
wont say when i did them :-[
Title: Re: BMC done good
Post by: Dolly on December 11, 2008, 12:31:52 pm
That is very good.
I think I did Mojo in 1985 FBSF - is that the crack after a roof start thing ?
Title: Re: BMC done good
Post by: fatboySlimfast on December 11, 2008, 01:12:05 pm
yeah, steep roof thing....think might of been 84 for me
Title: Re: BMC done good
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 11, 2008, 01:31:03 pm
Blimey that brings back some memories. Mojo's the E1 thing right? Think I did it when I was about 13 when access was dodgy but not totally banned, 1987 maybe.
Title: Re: BMC done good
Post by: 205Chris on December 11, 2008, 04:35:02 pm
Good work. Next stop Eagle Tor please BMC
Title: Re: BMC done good
Post by: grimer on December 11, 2008, 06:29:00 pm
does anyone know how reliant Great Wall is on the bolt near the top? Can it be backed up?

And chris, I think these things work by multiplying the venue by its importance, plus the square of the amount of hassle that Guy actually receives, times the factor of how much a venue really is totally off limits, divided by the chances there are of actually being able to mount a successful access campaign, minus a few if it is actually a low-interst shit-hole, to the sum of what mood he's in, multiplied by how nicely he's asked.

Feeding venues into that sum usually dictates how much effort goes into any particular campaign.

And well done Guy.
Title: Re: BMC done good
Post by: Bonjoy on December 11, 2008, 07:53:32 pm
Brilliant!!! I've always wanted to climb there.
Title: Re: BMC done good
Post by: belperpete on December 11, 2008, 09:09:09 pm
Brilliant!!! I've always wanted to climb there.
I can beat all of you lot - mid to late 70's (access was always known as a potential problem - honest, it wasn't me what dun it!).
Mojo, Great Wall etc. etc. - fookin' brilliant. Remember being catapulted up the crag, from ground level, on a sticht plate belay when
my mate took a flyer from high up on something and we ended up eyeball to eyeball. :lol:
Get in there Jon!
Title: Re: BMC done good
Post by: belperpete on December 11, 2008, 09:14:14 pm
Good work. Next stop Eagle Tor please BMC
JMC from UKClimbing forum?? If so, why drop the rest of the shit?
No offence, if not!
Title: Re: BMC done good
Post by: 205Chris on December 11, 2008, 09:28:57 pm
Good work. Next stop Eagle Tor please BMC
JMC from UKClimbing forum?? If so, why drop the rest of the shit?
No offence, if not!

Sorry, that's not me. My username is the same on most forums and is a throwback to the days when I used to drive a Pug GTI. The above post was made with tongue in cheek and wasn't meant to take anything away from the sterling effort of the BMC in securing access to Craig y Forwyn.
Title: Re: BMC done good
Post by: grimer on December 11, 2008, 09:38:33 pm
Oh no, Chris, and my reply was nothing more than a tongue-in-cheek response. I was just trying to show that there's a lot of factors in deciding what access can be fought for, and anyway, more about Forwen.  :beer2:
Title: Re: BMC done good
Post by: belperpete on December 11, 2008, 09:44:30 pm
Good work. Next stop Eagle Tor please BMC
JMC from UKClimbing forum?? If so, why drop the rest of the shit?
No offence, if not!

Sorry, that's not me. My username is the same on most forums and is a throwback to the days when I used to drive a Pug GTI. The above post was made with tongue in cheek and wasn't meant to take anything away from the sterling effort of the BMC in securing access to Craig y Forwyn.
That's bad enough, driving a Peugeot GTI (red or black, at a guess and probably already knackered??)
Respect! Beats my Smart car!!
Title: Re: BMC done good
Post by: Drew on December 12, 2008, 12:43:50 am
Fuck yeah! I've wanted to climb there for years, and now I've moved away, it's re-opened!
Title: Re: BMC done good
Post by: webbo on December 12, 2008, 08:28:30 am
does anyone know how reliant Great Wall is on the bolt near the top? Can it be backed up?

unless its been replaced by a tresspassing re equiper,i think its one of those troll bolts that goes in about 1/4 of an inch and i think your last bit of gear is  below your feet.
warning this information may be confabulation due to my failing memory and not having climbed there since 1981.
Title: Re: BMC done good
Post by: SA Chris on December 12, 2008, 08:38:57 am
Yikes. One for the bolt replacement fund I reckon.

Well done for sorting out access.
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