UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: meatball on November 30, 2008, 10:46:32 am
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As it turns out following the demise of our old venue, we in Liverpool now have a new place for a training setup. From the experience of our previous setup we realised that we needed some form of systems board. Knowing very little about setting one up, i was wondering if anyone on here has some advice on setting one up? Eg board angle, oriantaion of hold, type of holds etc...
Also if there has been some discussion on this topic already, would someone be able to post a link (had a brief look myself but couldn't find one)
Thanks in advance
Dave
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There was an article by the huber bros in an old on the edge not sure what number had a black and white cover and an article about v grades by dave pegg, i think 45 to 60 ish. There is also a bit by rich simpson on the moon website. I think they both recommend very diffrent things though.
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Well its still in the early stages of planning, so lots of opions still to be aired. Your advice is noted, thanks. Does anyone know the copy nodders is refering too? more to the point could someone make a scan of it please?
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It's OTE 62. Was just going through old mags for training advice recently. Sorry, haven't got a scanner. Some notes might help though, let me know if you need any more specific info.
Their board was/is 40-50 degree adjustable. 2.3m high. Huber recommends using a full range of holds and fairly large (or so it seems) footholds. Quite a big emphasis on pockets. Ten of each hold type, (5 right 5 left), horizontal spacing 1-1.5m apart. One thing they have in common with the Moon board advice is to hold positions for a few seconds, i.e.
"Start with both hands in one finger pockets and move to the next, grab it and drop the lower hand. Wait in this position on a straight arm for two seconds before starting to grab the next pocket without assistance from the second hand. Place your feet in such a way that your body is in the best position to the wall (?). follow this move pattern - 0 L1 R1 L2 R2 L3 R3 L4 R4 (repeat R leading). Other hold types follow the same or a very similar pattern. For slopers though he recommends cutting loose between moves and re-placing feet.
Overall session would be 6 reps per hold (that must mean 3 x L.hand 3 x R.hand?). For "maximum power training" put the board to 50 degree and repeat the exercises. One thing I haven't seen/used when training myself is using a big foothold very close to the handholds, to practise big rockover moves. He recommends rocking over to touch the top of the board then rocking back down and repeating.
From my very limited experience you need to have a huge range of footholds, starting with the bigger ones and then switching them for smaller ones as you get stronger much like on a normal board. Also normal campus type stuff works well too(except with feet on), 2 up 1 down, touches using bad handholds and keeping feet on.
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we needed some form of systems board
Just wondering what brought you to that conclusion?
Dylan has a mould for the old pusher system tiles which could prove useful.
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we needed some form of systems board
Just wondering what brought you to that conclusion?
We had a 50ish degree board only, but we could have used the space better. We now have much more space and after a few discussions the majority of people in our group (on what we would do different/better) all sugested a systems board would be good if we got another space. Any other advice on whats worked in ither people setup would also be welcome :)
Thanks
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I've carefully blown up the photo of the best training article in the world with JG in gravity and will closely analyse and emulate his setup.
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Just get yourself the 'training for climbing book' by horst, all you need is in there.
If you want a pic of my set up then let me know and I'll post a pic.
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Si,
Could you post a pic anyway as I'm thinking of building a board in my garage so looking for ideas/inspiration
Cheers
Matt
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Just get yourself the 'training for climbing book' by horst, all you need is in there.
If you want a pic of my set up then let me know and I'll post a pic.
I don't recommend that you buy this book for many reason, not least the fact that system board training is about as difficult to grasp as campus board training (with less exercises)
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Take a look at these videos from the udini site: http://www.nadventure.com/Training/systraining.html (http://www.nadventure.com/Training/systraining.html)
These should tell you all you need to know.
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Si,
Could you post a pic anyway as I'm thinking of building a board in my garage so looking for ideas/inspiration
Cheers
Matt
If you are on facebook let me know (Pm your name etc) as I have the full set of pics from the build on there.
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Si,
I'm not on facebook unfortunately never got round to joining as it seems to take up too much time (collegues at work spend ages on it)
I spend ages on here :)
Cheers
Matt
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i'm doing loads of system now.
two basic excercises:
- 30° wall. two hands on two crimps; you place your feet; you drop one hand and you one arm with the other, reaching as high as you can to another hold; then you come down with the assistance of the other hand. 3 times in a row, pause, other arm. 6 sets per arm.
- 45° wall. two hands on two crimps; you pull and place one foot very high and on one side; you drop the arm on the same side of the foothold and you one arm with the other, reaching as high as you can to another hold; then you come down with the assistance of the other hand, you let go of the feet, dangle to the other side, place the other foot high and aside, drop the arm, etc. 3 times per arm without coming down, 3 sets.
you can chose every hold you like, slopers, pinches, etc.
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- 45° wall. two hands on two crimps; you pull and place one foot very high and on one side; you drop the arm on the same side of the foothold and you one arm with the other, reaching as high as you can to another hold; then you come down with the assistance of the other hand, you let go of the feet, dangle to the other side, place the other foot high and aside, drop the arm, etc. 3 times per arm without coming down, 3 sets.
That sounds savage.
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i'm doing loads of system now.
two basic excercises:
- 30° wall. two hands on two crimps; you place your feet; you drop one hand and you one arm with the other, reaching as high as you can to another hold; then you come down with the assistance of the other hand. 3 times in a row, pause, other arm. 6 sets per arm.
- 45° wall. two hands on two crimps; you pull and place one foot very high and on one side; you drop the arm on the same side of the foothold and you one arm with the other, reaching as high as you can to another hold; then you come down with the assistance of the other hand, you let go of the feet, dangle to the other side, place the other foot high and aside, drop the arm, etc. 3 times per arm without coming down, 3 sets.
you can chose every hold you like, slopers, pinches, etc.
I've always thought of systems training as boring in a different manner, much in the same way as the UDINI videos show. I was a bit confused when first seeing the videos on moonclimbing.com as they seemed to effectively be isolation exercises much like this :shrug:
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i understand system training to be like identical-move symetrical laddering type stuff. this is what i'd did when i had my board up.
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i understand system training to be like identical-move symetrical laddering type stuff. this is what i'd did when i had my board up.
:agree:
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Systems exercises involve repeating and reversing the same move to failure. Easy to confuse it with laddering such as Horst's HIT training as you also do these on a systems board. If laddering is called systems training as well my apologies. If they are they shouldnt as they are critically diffrent. The description that nibile gave of his exercises was a classic systems session. Systems training is the future ..and has been for some time !
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if its been the future since some time in the past doesn't that make it the present?
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if its been the future since some time in the past doesn't that make it the present?
Systems training was so far ahead of its time that its still the future. Excuse me while I shuffle off to a dusty shed to put my new routine into practice.
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i understand system training to be like identical-move symetrical laddering type stuff. this is what i'd did when i had my board up.
I've looked it up in the Self-Coached Climber. Sorry, I was talking bollocks. It refers to any repetitive bouldering moves - laddering or otherwise - aiming for 6 to 8 reps per arm for hypertrophy, 1 to 2 for recruitment.
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Come and have a go on my board with me and Norton this week - its sort of systems based.
You'll deffo have a good time and I'm sure you'll be able to train to exhaustion
and......we've got a glitter ball
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You'll deffo have a good time and I'm sure you'll be able to train to exhaustion
and......we've got a glitter ball
Is it in the "conservatory"? ;) ;) ;) ;)
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Are you joking ? :)
The conservatory is a thoroughly respectable place I'll have you know.
The woodie is a different matter