UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Nibile on November 21, 2008, 11:49:52 am
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alex huber, 1996, 9a.
adam ondra, 2008, 9a+.
'nuff said, respect to the big guy and to the young guy.
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I think its already been reported on here Nibile however it is worthy of two topics ;D
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(http://lezec.cz/fotos/fil_4686.jpg)
http://lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=7446 (http://lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=7446)
http://cs.euroclimbing.com/?p=2814 (http://cs.euroclimbing.com/?p=2814)
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(http://lezec.cz/fotos/fil_4686.jpg)
http://lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=7446 (http://lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=7446)
http://cs.euroclimbing.com/?p=2814 (http://cs.euroclimbing.com/?p=2814)
Could be Peak limestone!
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Yeah, the flake on the right looks like it could do with a bit of sika.
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sorry,
it was under "chuffing", dunno why...
:-[
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Here is an english translation of the crux section.
...after the rest position there's a long move to a bad pinch for the left hand. Then it is tricky to fix yourself with some hooks at the roof's edge before reaching with the right hand to the key hold. This is first taken as a crimp and it seems to be very bad. You'll then have to solve the hook and prevent any swing. Get your feet higher and sort the right hold as a side pull. Then a very long move with the left hand into a 2-finger-pocket. Another two finger pocket for the right hand. Than you'll have to change the hands on the right pocket: right middle finger out of the pocket. Left ring finger in the pocket. Right hand back to the prior finger pocket. Sorting the left fingers in the upper pocket and a long move to an undercling hold with right. That's the crux.
At least there's no finger swaps in 2 finger pockets. Oh wait...
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Funky sequence. :o
Perhaps that's why Sharma thought something had broken off it. Couldn't fit his sausage fingers into the pocket for the one finger swap. ;)
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Seem to remember an old Huber interview, which gave the impression the second pocket was(for him) a mono, and he fell many times here trying to swap hands/fingers whilst doing a momentum 'pull-in'.
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Does anybody remember the grade of the first part of the route into the rest before the crux? Also, how good is the rest?
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Its a 13m 8a+ up to the rest then the crux, the whole route is 35m long apparently.
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I thought it was an 8a+ to the start of the route....Which doesn't mean a great deal as it may well be the second pitch, as such.
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Aye, I think you're right there. I got this from the 'Unrepeated' article on 8a.nu:
Open air, 9a, -96, Schleierwasserfall, Aus, Alex Huber, ~22m(~35m)
Open air is Alex Huber's sport-climbing legacy, the hardest route he ever climbed, and that should tell you soemething considering his track-record. This route long endurance route, with a vicious crux close to the top, should very much a contender for an upgrade, and is, in fact, already called 9a/+ in the Tyrol Routebook. The reason for different heights for the route is that you have to climb an 8a+ to reach the start of the route. At least that's my interpretation.
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Here is more info from a recent Ondra interview:
Hardly anyone can imagine the moves to a 9a+. Could you break down the route in terms of bouldering grades and say something about the route?
The route is quite bouldery. First 25 meters is maybe 8a+ [french], than you can sit on a ledge. From here you continue for 15m long roof- also about 8a+ fr- to the first good hold. Above it there is a boulder passage (about 7B?) and you got the second good jug. Basically, the route starts here– a boulder problem about 8A+. Up to here it´s relatively easy climbing; you are not quite pumped but also not fresh. It doesn´t matter if the roof is 7b or 8a+, the important thing is that you have to climb 20m hanging on your hands.
Above the crux you are rewarded by tasty and easy vertical climbing with nice view of Kitzbühel. All in all: 8a+,8a+,7B,8A+, easy finish.
So here's the math above the sit down rest: 15m 8a+ roof to a good hold. Then V8 to a second jug. Then V12 into an easy but tasty vertical headwall. Nice.
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Good Sleuthing skills...
easy vertical climbing with nice view of Kitzbühel
Which is good 'cos the crag itself is like a graffitied illegal immigrant holding camp.
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IIRC Huber climbed his hardest FA's in what he called "red-cross" style ie clipping a lot of the lower bolts so the climbing up to and including the crux was on top-rope. Was Open Air one of them ?
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I haven't heard anything about this but as long as he was capable of downclimbing the ground covered by the clips I have no issue.
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As I remember, the crag really doesn't lend itself to downclimbing......like climbing rainshadow(thru' a bulge)...
you can sit on a ledge. From here you continue for 15m long roof- also about 8a+
But then having said that, Open Air is the same aspect as many of his other hard routes, so if he 'redcrossed' them there is no reason he couldn't do the same here I suppose. Maybe he'll be on in a minute to confirm.
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I haven't heard anything about this but as long as he was capable of downclimbing the ground covered by the clips I have no issue.
My understanding was this wasn't the case. I thought it sounded dodgy at the time (which is why I remember) though he was quite open in reporting this style. The justification was that the moves were too hard to make the clips possible.
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[My understanding was this wasn't the case. I thought it sounded dodgy at the time (which is why I remember)
Did you read it in the mags?
If you look at the pics of Open Air above, there is only one bit that could not be downclimbed by a 9a+ climber, the V12 crux and the clip is below that.
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I think the main point is he probably enjoyed himself, which for a man counts for quite alo,t and hence humps the grade up considerably.
I was wondering should i wear my flares turned up or turned down?
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On the UKC News pic he is not only leading the crux but putting the draws in as he goes. For the camera or Fo' Reel?
PATRul- Flares turned down Deffo. The ever-widening aspect of the 70's flare was never made for turning up. Indeed when folded over the flared turn-up actually gathers substantially MORE dust/chalk than a traditional turn-up, leading to more time being spent on attire prep, and less on redpointing hard sport. Such behaviour would have the inventor, Mr Franklin D. Bellbottom turning in his grave.
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I dunno, we don't even know if there is anything to these allegations of dodgy preclipping. I met the bloke in Kalymnos, i'll give him the benefit.
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I was talking about the way Huber climbed some of his FA's as he described it in the mags at the time.
Redcrossing only caught on in Preston. I'm fairly sure Ondra isn't from Preston.
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Watch what you say 'bout preston, Lee. :lol:
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It's a shit-hole, wallis.
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I think Huber just did Om redcross style.
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I've just found this Supertopo article on google about Om:
The 15-meter crux section begins at 22 meters (5.13a up to here), opening with one of the climb's three crux moves, on bad sidepulls and pockets. More unrelenting bouldering worked up to an undercling, then the holds ran out and the next stretch shut him down cold. It was a body-length blank section in the middle of 50 feet of continuous 5.12 and 5.13 moves....after over two weeks on just this move, figured out the precise foot smears and body position that would allow him to use every centimeter of his arm span, and hit the next poor hold with an explosive undercling throw. "If you see this in action it is hard to believe," says Zak. No rest, bad holds, and 10 more moves led to the final crux, a high-step dyno between sloping edges. On redpoint, it was impossible for Huber to chalk or clip on the crux section. He waited for cool, dry conditions, and accepted the repeated 40-foot falls. Huber finally linked all this together in 1992, along with the final 12 meters of8a to the anchors and, after 30 days of work, redpointed Om. He's since done four other routes of 8c+, or German XI, and feels that Om is hard for the grade.
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Martha Focker.
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I was talking about the way Huber climbed some of his FA's as he described it in the mags at the time.
Redcrossing only caught on in Preston. I'm fairly sure Ondra isn't from Preston.
Are you absolutely sure? I red every issue of Rotpunkt at that time, and Huber was quite active in the debate about what constitute a redpoint, but he never mentioned this practice. Klem Loskot, on the other hand, did a few topropes a bit later.
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Pretty sure. It was a feature in I think OTE at the time - a round up of Huber's achievements - which . I have had a quick look thru my old mags but can't find it. Its the only time I have seen or heard reference to redcross and so I can't think I imagined it.
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I'm pretty sure it was just Om that was redcrossed. It would be pretty much impossible to red cross stuff like Weisse Rose as it starts up White Winds a a steep 25m 8a+, has a rest on a ledge then climbs out of a roof to a crux on the lip. Same with Open Air.
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But that contradicts Heinz Zaks' report that Ted (Kingy) pasted above. Wish I could get my hands on that article. Its an annoying tune in my head.
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But that contradicts Heinz Zaks' report that Ted (Kingy) pasted above.
Hi folks, here is the source of my pasted text above, to avoid confusion:
Climbing Magazine #154 – August/September 1995
Power To Waste
By Jeff Achey
Photos by Heinz Zak
It appeared in an article entitled 'Power To Waste - Huber Frees The Salathe' which was embedded within the Supertopo climbers forum. a Yankee site. As you can see, the author was a Jeff Achey and Heinz Zak merely took a few photos and commented briefly. Here is the web link:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=670752 (http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=670752)
Looking forward to this OTE article Simon!
Kingy (Ted)
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But that contradicts Heinz Zaks' report that Ted (Kingy) pasted above. Wish I could get my hands on that article. Its an annoying tune in my head.
Yes, I have that article. OTE 45. It says that he redcrossed Om.
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The 15-meter crux section begins at 22 meters (5.13a up to here), opening with one of the climb's three crux moves, on bad sidepulls and pockets.
Intriguing stuff. Thinking about it, I don't think the OTE and Climbing article necessarily contradict each other. If Huber redcrossed the first 22 meters of 7c+ then, as I said above, I don't really give a damn as a 9a/+ climber would have been more than capable of downclimbing that kind of ground...Christ, I could probably downclimb it!! However, if he had higher bolts than this pre-clipped then we might have to get the ethics committee to look into it! :P I don't have the OTE article to hand so I don't know what it says but if it does say that he had bolts pre-clipped above the crux section(s) then I really don't know whether to believe this Jeff Achey chap or OTE....
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hello, theres a bit more detail on the breakdown of the route in a mini interview on Kairn. Sounds very hard, very surprised that this could be done so long ago. route looks good. Kingy are you in germany? Stevie.
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Yeah agreed it was a stellar performance for 1996, I remember reading about it in the mags at the time and I think on t'interweb, which had just been invented!
Kingy are you in germany? Stevie.
No, I just have a rather obsessive interest in hard routes like this....just wish I could climb 'em!! :boohoo: