UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Monolith on November 13, 2008, 01:42:01 pm
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Looking to revamp a section of my personal ticklist at the moment and rather than run around like a kid in a sweetshop, I'd like to draw upon collective knowledge to gain some suggestions.
I'm after crimpy up problems; vertical or overhanging wall climbs between the range of 7b - 7c. Preferably would like to focus my attention on 3 to 4 problems in each of the regions - N Wales, Lakes and the Peak.
Thanks.
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giza
all quiet sitter (nearly a wall)
moolah (rivelin)
that wall on the Andle stone
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what no yorkshire?
this one looks classic
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/photo.html?id=shipley__millstone_grit (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/photo.html?id=shipley__millstone_grit)
or over at earl
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/photo.html?id=earl__andy_browns_wall (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/photo.html?id=earl__andy_browns_wall)
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perfect day direct start fits the lower end of the bill
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Quite correct, I inadvertently left Yorkshire out!
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Ahhh, Andy Brown's wall. The one time I looked at this it was piss wet but thought it looked uber cool and maybe a bit knacky?
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South Lakes:
Shallow Grave (7a+) - Trowbarrow
New Rose (7c) - Farleton
Totally Focussed sds (7b) - Warton Pinnacle
Black Light (7b) - Warton Pinnacle
Atomic Garden (8a) - Heysham Head. Harder than you wanted but sounds good!
North Wales:
Not many really spring to mind in that grade range apart from maybe a few on Pill Box wall. How about......
Ultimate Warrior (7b+) - Cwn Pennant. (Video here on Doylo's Youtube http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=eG8p47ng8Zk (http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=eG8p47ng8Zk)).
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Cheers John. I'd love to check out Ultimate Warrior at some point in the future. It looks immense eh!?
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Yeah it does look really good! I been once to check it out but never made it to the boulder and ended up falling 30ft down a broken cliff line only to be 'saved' by being caught and suspended in a web of brambles. Then it pissed it down.
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Your previous description (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8881.msg140975.html#msg140975) of the attempted walk in made me howl. It does look like a class problem.
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what no yorkshire?
this one looks classic
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/photo.html?id=shipley__millstone_grit (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/photo.html?id=shipley__millstone_grit)
Millstone Grip is also very good, but I remember landings being not so great?. Loads of wally stuff at Shipley Glenn actually. Like to go back with a couple of decent pads.
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More walls:
David at Mother Cap
Problem next to Lost World at Carl's Walk
Back in YMCA at Stanage
Walk on By at Curbar
(both Ben's Walls) less like walls
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Barry Sheene
Who Needs Ready Brek?
Brad's Wall
I hear that Glom Onto at Rivelin Quarry is good but haven't been on it myself
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Don't forget Pistol Whip at the 'cliff, possibly on of the finest walls anywhere in the country!
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A few more to represent good old Yorkshire:
Pistol Whip at the Cliff
Pebble Wall at the Cliff
Millstone Grip is very vert good, so is:
Millstone grit (to the right)
Manson Wall at Shipley (quite sharp)
Rabbit's Paw Wall at Caley
Terry at Caley (of cousre)
Acme Wall at Brimham
The Titfeild Thunderbolt at Brimham (dynamic but quality)
Fluide at Brimham Outlying (truley amazing problem)
Tobogan Wall at Guisecliff (highball)
Curious Yellow at Ilkley
Kermit at Lord's
Most probs on the X-Block at Hunter's (bit biased tho)
I could go on....and on....and on
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Don't forget Pistol Whip at the 'cliff, possibly on of the finest walls anywhere in the country!
You beat me to it Andi!
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Ripper, Baslow
Mint 400, froggatt
Hats For Clowns, eatswood
Simle Simon, Churnet
Little Gem, Burbage South
The Rib, Burbage South
Red or Dead, Blackwell Dale :great:
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Krush Regime, Higgar East
Sole Power, Froggatt
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A few more to represent good old Yorkshire:
If we're going to those lowly grades, then G's gotta be representing...
A Little Sparkle, Guisecliffe
Okay it's not so crimpy but it is brilliant.
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Brilliant thanks for all suggestions. Compiling them into an uber list for investigation!
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The Cube Direct, Roaches 7b+
Touch, Hen Cloud 7a+
Thumbelina, Ina's rock Churnet Very highball 7a+
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Krush Regime, Higgar East
Sole Power, Froggatt
Sole Power? ???
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West Side Story
Great White
Ben's Wall (Robin Hood's Sride)
Anything at minus 10 (obviously)
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Krush Regime, Higgar East
Sole Power, Froggatt
Sole Power? ???
Sole Power :shrug:
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edit
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How about this for a wall in North Wales.....http://web.mac.com/mark.reeves/iWeb/Markreevesinstruction1/Video%20Podcast/E24B3EB8-F6E1-44BC-813B-59ABC8AC5540.html (http://web.mac.com/mark.reeves/iWeb/Markreevesinstruction1/Video%20Podcast/E24B3EB8-F6E1-44BC-813B-59ABC8AC5540.html). Think it is in the Crafnant Valley. The bottom half is a 7b boulder problem apparently but gets E7 if you top out!
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Nice link John, the bottom section looks like really good moves on reasonable holds.
I think you should look closer to home Tom and finish off Catalepsy, Breakaway and Monoblock when conditions improve! You know I'll be psyched for a session on the latter when the temps drop.
We should make an effort to get to Curbar too so I can jump about on Hurricane and Ben's Wall whilst you crimp up nothing on WOB ;)
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Good shout Ricardo, although I'm surprised to hear you pushing Pex! I'd say I'm unlucky with getting Pex in nick generally although I'm sure BenF will pipe up that's "it's in the best nick ever at the moment" as is per usual ::) ;)
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Looking to revamp a section of my personal ticklist at the moment and rather than run around like a kid in a sweetshop, I'd like to draw upon collective knowledge to gain some suggestions.
Newsflash: Monolith asks question about climbing shock!
I thought you only did architecture, culture and techno. We should go climbing sometime... ;)
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Fingers in many pies my friend. Do you want to go to Crafnant soon?
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Yes. It's lovely up there and I need to finish off Wonderwall. Could do with cooler, less midgy conditions than on my previous visit too. Would need to be well dry before trekking up there again.
Some good stuff suggested on this thread mate, get to it. Am surprised to see you asking about stuff on grit though, I thought you were in with the Owen and that greasy ginger anti grit club.
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I'm strangely keen for Curbar and Almscliff at the moment but other than that, it's most definitely still limestone season (which seems to have a 365 days a year appeal every time I come back from another miserable day out on some dank windswept luck based scrittly excuse for a crag).
You'll see sense one day Benedict.
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and finish off Catalepsy, Breakaway and Monoblock
Deary, deary me Tom. Go and stand in the corner.
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Andy, I'll have to put my hands up and confess that I've never really given Lady Jane the time of day it deserves. Worryingly, I've invested the bulk of my time into Pisa wall! I'll be sure to make amends in the coming weeks and sort myself out.
Incidentally Andy, you might like interrogate Mr Crouch regarding his opinions on the finer points of Pex eliminate rules! A barrel of laughs from start to finish I think Mr Farley will concur.
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Hank's Wall.
Never been one of my favourites, but a lspot of people think it's classic (and a sandbag at 7a+).
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I've invested the bulk of my time into Pisa wall!
You will then of course be perfectly au fait with that crimpiest of wall climbs, North-west sit down. Won't you?
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North West overhang ss... now why does that ring a bell :-\ :whistle:
I suppose I'll have to go back with some officials and the rulebook to make sure it's right next time. More keen to figure out how the hell to do SW overhang from SS though! Was trying some weird heel-toe lock and a horrific deadpoint to get matched.
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That's how Pete did it. R-hand in obvious square slot in low break, L-hand just left. Pull on and go the L-hand starting hold on the stand-up, heel-toe with R-foot in obvious slot, come over with R to R-hand starting hold on stand-up, move feet and then you're into the stand-up. I was starting the same but going with L to obvious round natural pocket, moving feet a bit left (and facing left) going over with R to R-hand starting hold on stand up, hard move to get L into L-hand starting hold, move feet and then into stand up. Despite coming agonisingly close a number of times I haven't ticked this.
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I'm strangely very psyched for this Andy. Had a breif play with Crouch last winter season so keen to get involved again. Shit, I'm getting a bout of Pex eliminate psyche!!
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I suppose I'll have to go back with some officials and the rulebook to make sure it's right next time.
Rules? You mean like using the holds that are included in the problem? Anyone can jump to that break. :P You should have heard the laugh from Will and Ewan when I told them your "sequence".
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I'm strangely very psyched for this Andy. Had a breif play with Crouch last winter season so keen to get involved again. Shit, I'm getting a bout of Pex eliminate psyche!!
Hart's one handed anyone...
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Is Northumberland too far? Was thinking on the weekend that you couldn't throw a stick without hitting a crimpy wall.
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You're not wrong Chris. The sit start to hitchhikers is at the top of my list. Any recommendations at Bowden?
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His Eminence, Dog Eat Dog, Captain Haddock, Traverse into The Manta and Child's play are ones that stick out as probably your kind of thing Tom.
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Did Child's Play on Sunday, after bottling it every time I have walked past previously. Definitely more slab / Arete than wall tho'.
(http://www.smuffandrooney.co.uk/d/3450-1/DSC_0228.jpg)
Did The Scoop, which I really enjoyed. wallish, but also scoopish (obviously).
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Child's Play is well Jackson, I need to finish it off! Scary stuff. Great picture though.