UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: TobyD on November 02, 2008, 10:16:40 pm

Title: weight training knowledge
Post by: TobyD on November 02, 2008, 10:16:40 pm

Does anyone know plenty / know of a good resource with information about weight training for climbing?

Principally as a supplement to wall / board training etc, in order to bolster power / power-endurance. I have pretty reasonable stamina, but poor deep locking ability, 'flicky' power and power endurance.

cheers for any assistance!

Title: Re: weight training knowledge
Post by: matthew on November 03, 2008, 10:55:51 am

There used to be some good stuff on PlanetFear about exercises related to climbing. http://www.planetfear.com/articles.archive.php (http://www.planetfear.com/articles.archive.php)
I you have poor locking ability why don't you do deep lock-offs on a fingerboard, or campus board it up.
Maybe some of these http://www.exrx.net/WeightExercises/BackGeneral/WTSupineRow.html (http://www.exrx.net/WeightExercises/BackGeneral/WTSupineRow.html) or these
http://www.thefitmap.co.uk/exercise/tools/videos/barbell-row.htm (http://www.thefitmap.co.uk/exercise/tools/videos/barbell-row.htm)