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the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: abarro81 on October 28, 2008, 08:09:11 pm

Title: Left-hand man, middle man
Post by: abarro81 on October 28, 2008, 08:09:11 pm
What's the deal/rules with the original sequence on LHM? Did it both the easier way and the harder today, in theory that makes it my first 7c+ (not even an eliminate, just a bad sequence.. the shame) but it felt suspiciously easy... For the harder version: From the ledge went RH up into slot thing, LH mono-crimp-sidepull-higher sidepull in a series of go agains with LF heel-toe shuffling in between; then switched RH to undercut the slot and LH over into top pocket. Is that 'right'? If so I'd guess at maybe easy 7c, though maybe it was just the conditions - it even snowed for about 20 minutes!! First snow of the season?
Also, my mate didn't like my beta at the start (RH up to slot, put LF heel-toe in then LH up to mono then crimp on arete) - he wonders if others have different beta for this bit?

Middle man - anyone got a good sequence? How high up DW are you supposed to go before heading off left?
Cheers
Title: Re: Left-hand man, middle man
Post by: account_inactive on October 29, 2008, 12:11:52 am
It felt easy for 7c+ as it's 7b+  :)
Title: Re: Left-hand man, middle man
Post by: a dense loner on October 29, 2008, 03:33:01 pm
going over with your left hand is no harder, just scarier and a waste of a problem description. easier probably for your lank ;)
Title: Re: Left-hand man, middle man
Post by: Jim on October 29, 2008, 03:40:46 pm
Think on middle man you go over to the mono with your right hand
Title: Re: Left-hand man, middle man
Post by: Andy B on November 02, 2008, 07:10:55 pm

Jim's right.

from the starting ledge;
right hand small edge
left hand sidepull slpit pocket [some people go straight to this]
right hand mono pocket
left hand slopey little edge
right hand match slopey little edge
left hand jug pocket.
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