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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: abarro81 on October 25, 2008, 12:54:40 pm

Title: West side story pebble
Post by: abarro81 on October 25, 2008, 12:54:40 pm
It's gone! :o
Walked under it on the way to the other end of burbage west this morning (before the damn rain) and the pebble was no more... Chalk mark next to a scar, so presume it's recent??
Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: fatdoc on October 25, 2008, 01:29:09 pm
holy mother of god....

we need to glue somthing on it then
Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: abarro81 on October 25, 2008, 01:35:58 pm
we need to glue somthing on it then

A big pink jug?
Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: Richie Crouch on October 25, 2008, 02:06:42 pm
Drill a mono  :whistle:
Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: willackers on October 25, 2008, 02:28:34 pm

Man up! 8)
Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 25, 2008, 03:31:51 pm
Good riddance. That fucking thing ripped the entire pad of my index finger off.  :wave:
Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: Bonjoy on October 25, 2008, 07:00:59 pm
Though it's a tragic loss to a classic problem, I won't miss having a numb finger for weeks after pulling on it.
Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: Dangereux on October 25, 2008, 11:28:49 pm
Any change in grade? I've not done it, but pebble seemed relatively crucial.  ???
Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: St Hubbins on October 25, 2008, 11:41:19 pm
I reckon it was that Ivan Green fella
Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: Paul B on October 25, 2008, 11:56:00 pm
I can see him in the next Dosage film screaming "Bring the ruckus" holding that famous pebble in his hand...
Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: r-man on October 26, 2008, 01:11:48 am
No pebble? Excellent. Does this mean it's now a good problem?
Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: fatdoc on October 26, 2008, 07:38:51 am
means it's 7c for the short

Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: AndiT on October 26, 2008, 08:07:36 am
means you don't need to top out for the tick anymore  :whistle:
Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: james on October 26, 2008, 01:50:47 pm
the plott thickens.  I did it yesterday???evening (24th, but im in china now and lost track of time) and all was good. just be a hero and jump from crimp and second sidepull. who needs intermediates ;)
Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: grimer on October 26, 2008, 02:12:25 pm
It's not unusual to do it without the pebble, is it? I think that's how andy popp first showed me, and how i did it. AP's not that tall?
Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: fatdoc on October 26, 2008, 02:28:09 pm
method developed by patta and perhaps mike lea....

it's damn crucial if you're 5ft 7... otherwise it's as james said..... dyno time!!


7c.



Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: andy popp on October 26, 2008, 04:30:10 pm
It's not unusual to do it without the pebble, is it? I think that's how andy popp first showed me, and how i did it. AP's not that tall?

I didn't even know there was a pebble. Where was it?
Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: Paz on October 31, 2008, 05:11:57 pm
Middle of the wall on the left of the sidepulls.  Wasn't Stu's beta to tape your thumb to thumb down on it?
Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: uptown on October 31, 2008, 08:22:34 pm
method developed by patta and perhaps mike lea....or that uptown fella
If clumsy types ruin any more classics by knocking off the pebbles then I'm gonna have to learn to climb dynamically. You wouldn't like me climbing dynamically...
Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: dave on November 02, 2008, 04:56:54 pm
hopefully someone can reconstruct a replica of the pebble out of sika.
Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 02, 2008, 07:09:51 pm
i got a text about this, apparently some guy called sam. i'm pretty suprised it it never seemed fragile.

i say leave it off. i'm 5'8'', my original sequence, still my favourite, didn't use the pebble. instead you layback the flake, getting the top sidepull first with left hand, then matching and going for the break. it is more technical this way, as you can't pull your way through it, and have to make better use of the feet. less powerful and less reachy though, the result being for a lot of folk that's going to make an upgrade to 7c reasonable, it was always at the top end of 7b+ anyway.
Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: Nigel on November 02, 2008, 08:14:42 pm
i'm 5'8''


What does this matter - when has anyone ever used the top of their head to hold the grips? (Maybe if you chalked it up, at least it isn't cluttered by pesky hair) :P I'm pretty sure your hands (better suited to this purpose) are a considerable distance from each other.

This pebble really was awful.

Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: Jim on November 03, 2008, 05:59:25 am
Some more words from the wise there nige. I hope all of these tit-bits are going in your book
Title: Re: West side story pebble
Post by: Nigel on November 03, 2008, 08:12:36 am
No words, just the tits and bits.
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