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the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: account_inactive on October 25, 2008, 10:44:53 am
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Has anyone been on this recently? I've read that it can seep and if so would it be a good choice at the moment?
Also does anyone (Andy B/Bonjoy?) have any decent beta for the moves?
Cheers
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maybe ask ned?
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It was dry last week.
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i've been wondering about this one too. As I remember, sequence is fairly self explanatory. We shall investigate
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Can't recall exact details, but I do recall saving effort by doing a big slap and missing out one off the LH sidepulls and using double toe-hooks to get the slot.
If it's wet get your asses on Salle Goose and Secret Dyno! The Cocking Tor circuit is worth a look too.
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This might give something away beta wise.
(http://www.8a.nu/images/gallery/18228_633259780858125000.jpg)
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probably some mistakes here but, as well as i can remember, something like;
from the back,
lh better undercling
rh two finger dink
lh first sidepull
build feet up so that left foot is on the snappy flake high at the back [right foot might have been on a hold in the roof at this point
lh slap to third sidepull, cutting loose
both feet double toe hooks out right [as per photo]
rh into slot
rf on edge in roof
lh round lip
jugs
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right foot might have been on a hold in the roof at this point
yeah it deffo was RF in roof on a little hold.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/Dave/Peak/andyriver01.jpg)
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Or, if you are a technically incompetent: Same as Andy B to the cut loose, then right foot on a little edge in roof, left foot flag, slap left hand to sloper on lip (tickmark in pic), and campus RH to break. A bit less faffy than the other way.