UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: tomtom on October 20, 2008, 08:46:30 pm
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Hello,
Just tried a pair of these on and wondered what people thought? & how much do they stretch.. Alot of people seem to like em..
I'm a 9 in regular shoes, and 8's seemed just perfectly snug (I could only just squeeze into them) But the uppers (esp toe area) felt rather stretchy and wondered whether this was an issue with these?
I know its a question I can only really answer by buying and trying but just wondered if anyone had any beta. I climb nearly always on Grit, and (unfortunately) this time of year on plastic.. Previous shoes I've liked are Chilli spirit velcros (I think) and Joker Velcro's (lots of people seem to dislike these but I really rated them,.)
Tom
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Carlsberg don't make climbing shoes, but if they did, they still wouldn't be as good as the Anasazi VCR!
In my opinion (and this is entirely due to the fact that they fit my feet perfectly), they are the best shoe ever. Stiff enough for most routing needs, and soft enough for hard bouldering on smeary footholds!
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What he said. But beware the heel :(
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I know a couple of people who really rate them, but both have said they do stretch a bit over time.
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The best rock shoe ever made, pretty much. They work well on virtually everything. And the heel is good.
They comfortise and get softer over time but don't stretch much.
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comfortise
Good word ;D
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As Ru said, they are probably the best all-round shoe on the market, good for edgy Lime or smeary Grit. The new heels are a vast improvement. They don't stretch that much either, but bed in very nicely, getting soft towards the end of their life.
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The new heels are an improvement but not as vast as I've heard some people say.
When you try some on, make sure your feet are cold and then start trying some boots on, keep going down in sizes until you reach the point where you are only able to just about get your foot in, and when its in there is so much pain its unbareable. You should then buy half a size bigger than the last size you tried on.
You will notice if you keep buying them you will go down a half a size every year.
I'll be in a size 0 when I'm 53
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But the uppers (esp toe area) felt rather stretchy and wondered whether this was an issue with these?
The extra volume is to allow your toes to fully knuckle up. Sounds like you either you have narrow/ low volume feet, or you aren't going small enough and the toes are still extended. Velcros are better for those with wide feet, the lace-ups are better for those with narrow. Most folk I know tend to one or the other depending on foot shape. I don't know anyone who regularly uses both, though the I believe the new green lace-ups are slightly higher volume than the new whites, which are similar to the old pinks.
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But the uppers (esp toe area) felt rather stretchy and wondered whether this was an issue with these?
The extra volume is to allow your toes to fully knuckle up. Sounds like you either you have narrow/ low volume feet, or you aren't going small enough and the toes are still extended. Velcros are better for those with wide feet, the lace-ups are better for those with narrow. Most folk I know tend to one or the other depending on foot shape. I don't know anyone who regularly uses both, though the I believe the new green lace-ups are slightly higher volume than the new whites, which are similar to the old pinks.
Thanks for the advice JB and others.
My toes were knuckled up and stretching the upper quite a bit.. the annoying thing is my lurcal shop only has 7's and 8's and the 8's fitted snug - but no 7.5's to try.. grr.. Next nearest shop is 40 odd miles away (+ I get 10% off here..)... Also, thanks to the oddities of my feet, my right foot is half a size smaller... joy!
I'll try em again today. Thanks again all,
Tom
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My right is a bit bigger. I wouldn't bother with a shop that doesn't stock half-sizes. Try a few pairs of the same size on too, they are better than they were but there will be some variation. Ideally then you have 6 or 8 boots from which you can then get a good fit for both feet and buy those 2. The better shops don't mind you doing this in my experience
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i used to have to do that in outside to find 2 boots from a dozen pairs. haven't done it in ages though since they ruined the anasazi velcro by "improving" the heel, and cheaping out on the velcro and making the straps too stiff so they always come undone. Sorry did I say VelcroTM, i meant to say hook&loop fastening.
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making the straps too stiff so they always come undone.
Not notice this at all. What situation causes them to come undone?
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rock climbing will generally do it.
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Only once had this problem, on a single pair before the re-style. New ones are fine. Maybe they occasionally run out of VelcroTM, and have to buy hook&loop fastening instead. From Prana.
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I'll be in a size 0 when I'm 53
Like Kate Moss?
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on mine, you close them, but you can tell that the velcro (or mexican equivalent) isn't even biting. and cos the straps now are that shit faux-leatherette (instead of the old seatbelt style webbing) they're really rigid, thus as soon as one end lifts then whole thing opens. not helps also by the fact the straps are too long, but unlike the old straps you can't just cut and melt with a fag lighter.
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I had that problem on one of the straps on my last pair of velcro's.
I've had about 10 pairs now and the rest have been ok
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rock climbing will generally do it.
I asked for that. :lol:
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Thanks for all the info everyone. :thumbsup:
Just got a pair (which were just in apparently...) and a couple of bits of info that might be relavent to people that posted here..
First, the velcro has a label saying snip and heat seal once snipped... so looks like thats changed back,
and thanks very much for the advice about 5.10's shonky production control.
Me & the chap in the shop could not tell the difference between a 7.5 and an 8 when lined up next to each other.. the 7.5 felt snugger but on the outside they looked identical - so good advice to try a few of the identical/similar size on! :goodidea:
Cheers all,
T
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Thanks for all the info everyone. :thumbsup:
Just got a pair (which were just in apparently...) and a couple of bits of info that might be relavent to people that posted here..
First, the velcro has a label saying snip and heat seal once snipped... so looks like thats changed back,
and thanks very much for the advice about 5.10's shonky production control.
Me & the chap in the shop could not tell the difference between a 7.5 and an 8 when lined up next to each other.. the 7.5 felt snugger but on the outside they looked identical - so good advice to try a few of the identical/similar size on! :goodidea:
Cheers all,
T
Think it's been said many times on here before, but when buying 5.10s it's a good idea to try on a few pairs in your given size as there can be a bit of variation in fit. Given 5.10s quality issues it's also a good idea to make sure you've got a right and a left shoe in the box too.
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Just bought me a pair of size 9s after much deliberating between 9 and 9.5. Been wearing them indoors occasionally over last two days just to "comfortise" (to use Ru's word) and feel perfect on left foot, but right is half a size bigger, and just feels a bit "pinchy" on the end and inside of the big toe. Width etc is spot on. Give them time and just get out on rock over the next week and hope they will stretch slightly or take back to shop and go up half a size?
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Stick with what you got, they'll deform more to the shape of your foot from climbing in them and it'll save you the hassle of going back to the shop too...
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Think you are probably right, shop is only 10 min walk from office tho'. Will wear them indoors for another day or so then decide.
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MTFU and they'll stretch... That 5:10 vegan cowdura leather shit does seem to stretch quiet a bit.. I've got a new pair last week, and can only just get my foot in them - my old pair are neeeeearrly done in, so I take both to the crag, try the new ones until I can bear the pain no longer then back to the olds... and repeat on future sessions...
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They do tend to stretch , but I've found that by sticking them in the washing machine on a warm cycle they seem to shrink a bit ......
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Two evenings worn at home, and two sessions out on the rock and they are veritably glove like. Glad i stuck with them, cheers for the advice.
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Nice one :) I forgot mine (still in suitcase) when I went to plantation yesterday... jesus Madrocks (my wall back up pair) are utter dog turd in comparison..
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Sorry to bring this up again...
but,
Just got my new pair (3rd pair, birthday present) and...
They've shortened the Velcro!!!!
Finally!
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The VCS appears to be 80 notes on Decathlon, they obviously didn't get the price hike email! http://www.decathlon.co.uk/anasazi-hook-and-loop-id_1153210.html (http://www.decathlon.co.uk/anasazi-hook-and-loop-id_1153210.html)
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They were 89 at Cotswolds OD... Free delivery.