UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Fultonius on January 17, 2024, 08:00:50 pm
-
Given we have various other threads arguing to toss over how useful the metric of "how much you can pull on a 20mm edge" is, I thought this could be a fun counterpoint. Especially since I just watched a (fairly poor and not very informative) video by Emil Abrahamson hanging +86kg off a 20mm edge...
What's the current record on maximum load (BW + Added Load) ever hung off a 20mm edge?
Either 1 arm or 2.
So I'll start the bidding at Emil: Estimate 82kg BW form what he said, so a total 2-arm max load of 166kg. BEAST!
For reference I'm 111.6kg (strong enough for 8C, actually climb 7B)
-
Yves Gravelle. Not hanging, but peak force on a 20mm edge with 1 hand: 117kg.
He seems to be pretty even with both hands too so I imagine he could hang well over 200kg.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cl7l3najqDe/?igsh=MWMxM2Y5aGl1dG0xZQ==
-
I thought Allison Vest was the strongest fingers in the world? one arm hang on the beastmaker edge with +50Kg
-
Puccio did +44lb at 53kg (if she's the same weight now as when competing) 1 armed sans nestle.
Allison +100lb with nestle at idk her weight, but that's just mad
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0E-1Q-JOqw/?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==
-
Might be a very short thread this one :lol:
-
My friend shaun hung +120kg on the 20mm edge at around 66kg weight - it went a bit undercover but I believe quite a few wads are aware of the feat, has to be one of the heaviest hangs In history
-
Are you saying the total weight was 186kg??
-
What will snap first: the edge, the fixings or his tendons?
-
Not sure which of @monscogram feats are the most impressive...
+70kg at about 57kg bodyweight on 10mm edges
https://www.instagram.com/p/CMgwMQojIXN/?igsh=MXRtZmU0M2J3aGV1dQ==
-
Not sure which of @monscogram feats are the most impressive...
+70kg at about 57kg bodyweight on 10mm edges
https://www.instagram.com/p/CMgwMQojIXN/?igsh=MXRtZmU0M2J3aGV1dQ==
That one's minging. Full crimp ahoy.
Allison's +50kg mentioned higher up is a ridiculously impressive achievement.
I think even had I started climbing at a young age, had very knowledgeable coaching and actually adhered to it, I would never get anywhere in that ball park.
The feats achieved these days are astounding
-
Not sure which of @monscogram feats are the most impressive...
+70kg at about 57kg bodyweight on 10mm edges
https://www.instagram.com/p/CMgwMQojIXN/?igsh=MXRtZmU0M2J3aGV1dQ==
This guy is a complete mutant but his form is pretty bad, I am not really sure a lot of his pull ups actually count
-
It's amazing what people can do when they prioritise hangboarding over getting good at climbing
-
It's amazing what people can do when they prioritise hangboarding over getting good at climbing
How do you know he isn't a v15 crusher
-
v15 has probably been flashed! (v14 has been flahsed by many so v15 cannot be that impressive). v17 has been done without shoes. And 9a has been done onsight by people who focus on getting good at climbing
-
v15 has probably been flashed! (v14 by many). v17 has been done without shoes. And 9a has been done onsight by people who focus on getting good at climbing
And are pros who have unlimited time to get strong whilst climbing and who probably fingerboard like fury
-
Are you saying the total weight was 186kg??
Yes around that, I’ll see if I can find the video!
-
Second video on this post for those interested, shaun is a mutant https://www.instagram.com/p/C1zalo1Sea-/?img_index=2
290% BW
-
My friend shaun hung +120kg on the 20mm edge at around 66kg weight - it went a bit undercover but I believe quite a few wads are aware of the feat, has to be one of the heaviest hangs In history
Not sure how you even go about hanging this much weight off yourself, I find any more than 40 a bit uncomfortable around the waist, amazing!
-
Second video on this post for those interested, shaun is a mutant https://www.instagram.com/p/C1zalo1Sea-/?img_index=2
290% BW
Hate to be a sceptic, but is that really 120kg he's got on there? 120kg is a lot of big plates.
ed: looks like he's at the works, somebody get the scales!
-
Im not 100% but no reason for shaun to lie about it as he’s just crazy strong on a hangboard
-
It's the equivalent of 93kg per arm. Based on him doing 60kg with a 10mm edge it's within the realms of possibility. Also aren't the BM1K edges slightly bigger than 20mm?
So is Yves Gravelle still the winner at 117kg with one hand?
-
Bm1k outside bottom edges are 18mm I thought?
-
They’re 20mm and the middle of the 2k is 22mm as far as I’m aware
-
Hate to be a sceptic, but is that really 120kg he's got on there? 120kg is a lot of big plates.
ed: looks like he's at the works, somebody get the scales!
Looks to be a kettlebell between his legs too which may account for a decent amount. Just standing up with that much weight is impressive!
-
I know it's mean, but I just can't stop thinking about how stunningly bad at climbing you'd have to be to be that strong and not climb 8C+ or 9b!
-
Bm1k outside bottom edges are 18mm I thought?
You might be thinking 2k, which are 18mm
-
The best climber in the world barely getting 77kg to move a few cm off the ground with one arm:
https://youtu.be/Hb8SIrCsesk?si=g7MF-mk8bcECbDdj
-
I know it's mean, but I just can't stop thinking about how stunningly bad at climbing you'd have to be to be that strong and not climb 8C+ or 9b!
I was taken aback a few years ago by just how upset someone got after getting that reaction to an awesome feats of finger board strength video.
If the person doing it "only" climbs 7C or whatever, that is still pretty impressive to me, regardless of whether that is by way of off-the-chart finger strength or by way of a mix of attributes.
-
Bm1k outside bottom edges are 18mm I thought?
You might be thinking 2k, which are 18mm
I was under the impression they were 14mm. There are old images which stated the depths floating around on reddit stating that. Maybe Dan can confirm the dpeths on here once and for all!?
-
https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/s/Xq7np8G1O1
Bm 1k edges were measured at 16-20mm between different users and bm 2k edges at 12.7mm to 15mm
-
Depths definitely changed at some point... The edges on very old 2ks are definitely not the same size as more modern ones (very old ones are a notch smaller). The middle edge also changed shape at some point to be more rounded and less overly incut (not actually changing difficulty much) - if you feel the two at the foundry you can easily feel the difference in middle edge shape
I was taken aback a few years ago by just how upset someone got after getting that reaction to an awesome feats of finger board strength video.
The truth can hurt! I can't understand the physics of falling off boulders where every hold must feel like a jug (he can hang more weight on an edge than I could on a jug), when you can one arm jugs with added weight. It just doesn't compute!
-
The truth can hurt! I can't understand the physics of falling off boulders where every hold must feel like a jug (he can hang more weight on an edge than I could on a jug), when you can one arm jugs with added weight. It just doesn't compute!
I just looked on his insta page and in the most recent rock climbing vid he goes with the wrong hand for the first move on Lizard King, cutting loose in the process. Perhaps his tactics need a bit of work :lol: But i'm not even hating, the guys a beast and I'd love to have some of that finger strength!
I wonder if the people pulling 80kg+ with 1 hand and still training it actually think they need more finger strength?
-
I was taken aback a few years ago by just how upset someone got after getting that reaction to an awesome feats of finger board strength video.
The truth can hurt! I can't understand the physics of falling off boulders where every hold must feel like a jug (he can hang more weight on an edge than I could on a jug), when you can one arm jugs with added weight. It just doesn't compute!
I think the huge problem online is that we haven't a clue how the guy might take it. He may be reading this with hilarity or he may be crestfallen. If it were a face to face encounter and you saw him crestfallen you would instinctively switch over to just enthusing about how, if he were to dedicate some time on rock he could improve on rock in leaps and bounds. You might even end up saying that if strength training is his passion then he's an inspiration in that department regardless of anything else.
This also put me in mind of how amongst climbers in Edinburgh Uni in the 1980s there was a view that the only measure of climbing ability was what you did on a damp, vegetated, mountain cliff in a death fall situation. To them, your 8b+ onsights would have been merely demonstrating "technical ability" which might or might not be a limiting factor to true climbing ability as they saw it. The narrowness of the gap between technical ability and damp minging death fall scenario climbing gave them the measure of what they viewed as being the essence of all that was worthy and of need of cultivation in a climber.
-
I know it's mean, but I just can't stop thinking about how stunningly bad at climbing you'd have to be to be that strong and not climb 8C+ or 9b!
He’s not been climbing for very long tbf only like 4-5 years, goes back to what we were saying about climbing being a skill sport primarily, an 8C+ can be extremely complex in its moves no?
-
This also put me in mind of how amongst climbers in Edinburgh Uni in the 1980s there was a view that the only measure of climbing ability was what you did on a damp, vegetated, mountain cliff in a death fall situation. To them, your 8b+ onsights would have been merely demonstrating "technical ability" which might or might not be a limiting factor to true climbing ability as they saw it. The narrowness of the gap between technical ability and damp minging death fall scenario climbing gave them the measure of what they viewed as being the essence of all that was worthy and of need of cultivation in a climber.
Bonny Masson wrote an article about what she and Livesey termed ’real climbing’ in a magazine. I can’t find it online, might have been an early High, I suspect. There was an accompanying photo of her on Suicide Wall.
It put forward a view that what counted was the ability to hold it together on bold routes. It’s a view that was in the spirit of its time, although not so much nowadays when we revere strength and difficulty. Both perspectives are valid, aren’t they? Whatever floats your boat I say- although I suspect people often seek out whatever they feel most comfortable with, which tends to align with their own areas of strength.
Recently, I was looking at preserved kit and photos from the early Everest expeditions of the 20s-50s and marvelling at the clothes they had at their disposal. Woolly jumpers and tweeds at 8000m :sick:
Climbing has changed so very much, but the rocks stay the same (erosion aside). You can have whatever experience you choose to seek out. Lattice bouldering training programme, soloing on Lliwedd- it’s all valid and no one approach is superior to another imo. You can just get on with what draws you most, it’s all good.
Edit -typos
-
I know it's mean, but I just can't stop thinking about how stunningly bad at climbing you'd have to be to be that strong and not climb 8C+ or 9b!
He’s not been climbing for very long tbf only like 4-5 years, goes back to what we were saying about climbing being a skill sport primarily, an 8C+ can be extremely complex in its moves no?
It can be, but not all hard climbing is complex. At the least you'd expect 8Bs on a board to feel easy.
Stone- your example is more like if I said bouldering wasn't "real" climbing. Or a mountaineer saying rocks weren't real climbing. Fingerboarding isn't yet a sunset of rock climbing AFAIK! Of course if that's what these people are into for it's own sake then smash on, but then I can't imagine they'd be upset at my comment like I wouldn't be upset if someone pointed out that I suck at mountaineering.
-
Fingerboard is the purest essence of climbing and should be in the Olympics instead of speed-babooning.
-
Of course if that's what these people are into for it's own sake then smash on, but then I can't imagine they'd be upset at my comment like I wouldn't be upset if someone pointed out that I suck at mountaineering.
In the case I was thinking of, the guy was absolutely devastated. My impression was that he had mixed motivations. He liked strength training and revelled in his mastery of that. He also had climbing aspirations and felt affinity for the climbing community (whatever that is). Anyway, the online commentary about how his strength feats demonstrated climbing ineptitude, upset him so much that he deleted all copies of all videos he had and caused him to view "the climbing community" as being cruel and alienating.
Even things said with a friendly good natured intention can be taken really badly.
-
Abarro you know it's mean to say, because you stated that yourself when you said it. It's hardly unreasonable that people might be upset by self-admittedly mean comments
Lad looks incredibly strong. If he climbs hard or not, that's still cool. Saying he must be an awful climber is pretty unnecessary imo. The thread is about incredible fingerboard feats, which that is.
-
I can't help but feel like a Fox news viewer at this point...
-
At least you didn't do something truly awful like pointing out him dabbing and still taking the grade...
-
Has Alex said he feels an awful climber? Or just acted surprised that people that strong don't find boulders and board climbing easy? I'd be surprised too, I'm not trying to be mean, just observing and stating an observation in the politest way I can.
I can completely accept someone might like training, have less time to work on the technical side of things and so and so forth, and still find it surprising people can be that strong and yet not perform on rock as well as I'd expect. Is that unreasonable?
I can think of a instances where I've been blown away at the crag by someone has 1 arm hung 10mm edge on my fb at the crag and then been unable to do a move on a bloc i could do every go which I felt was a straight forward move with sufficient finger strength. Am I meant to mask my shock in this instance? (as my social skills aren't the best and I'm not sure I'd be able to guarantee that) Where do I draw the line? Genuine question as I might just have to find increasing esoteric crags to avoid this situation otherwise.
-
Such farcical levels of over-sensitivity on here lately that it's almost parody.
As Yetix says, it's not that anyone is trying to poke fun at this kind of thing, it's that having fingers that strong and not then being able to climb to a very high standard simply doesn't compute! It's fascinating more than anything else; as Alex said, how on earth can you ever fall off when all the handholds must feel like a jug feels to the rest of us?
And, as Alex also said, the truth can hurt. But we need truth to guide us, especially where improvement demands a large degree of introspection, something even the most deep thinking and reflective people can struggle with.
-
I know it's mean, but I just can't stop thinking about how stunningly bad at climbing you'd have to be to be that strong and not climb 8C+ or 9b!
Okay perhaps this phrasing was a little harsh
-
At least you didn't do something truly awful like pointing out him dabbing and still taking the grade...
A fine and noble heritage
-
My phrasing was a bit mean... But I genuinely don't understand being that strong and not finding board 8Bs easy. Maybe that's my lack of imagination?! But I also find it a bit weird/lame that people can't accept if they suck at something. I suck at techy climbing and I suck at heels; it should not be offensive to tell me I suck at heels. Being reminded of this should be a kick up my ass to do something about it. I'll go back to watching Tucker and lamenting the modern snowflake generation now.
-
My phrasing was a bit mean... But I genuinely don't understand being that strong and not finding board 8Bs easy.
This goes back to our discussion on specificity a few pages back (or was it another thread? They all turn into one...). Being able to dangle of a 20mm edge has little to do with most board problems, which require different wrist angles, rate of force development, pulling out from the holds instead of just down, etc. the raw strength should be transferable to some extent but it requires getting coordinated first.
-
Such farcical levels of over-sensitivity on here lately that it's almost parody.
Someone said something quite mean, and even admitted that saying that was quite mean as they said it, and people agreed that it was, in fact, mean. What about that is over-sensitive? If anything complaining that your mean-spirited comment is being called out as mean-spirited is over-sensitive.
And, as Alex also said, the truth can hurt. But we need truth to guide us, especially where improvement demands a large degree of introspection, something even the most deep thinking and reflective people can struggle with.
Would you really, if you came across a series of posts made by people that you don't know discussing one of your videos and taking the piss out of you, see that as truth-based guidance for your improvement?
-
Maybe we should rename this thread to legendary feats of climbing prowess :lol: wouldn’t be a UKB thread without a massive tangent eh
Also let me give y’all some more context, first of all shaun comes from a country where rock climbing is few and far between so started indoors, came to the UK to do his degree and at the tail end of that degree started going out more on real rock. He also had no car so had to depend on friends for lifts to crags. Also Alex you’re assuming he hasn’t done any 8Bs ;) but he was regularly smashing lots and lots of classics on the 50 and the moonboards often burning off wads.
And Nick the whole over sensitive thing is getting boring, welcome to the real world where people have differing levels of sensitivity to things, shock horror I know
-
abarro, if a 9a climber tells me I’m bad at some specific technique or other, I’ll take it on the chin and look to improve, no problem. If the same person tells me I’m basically not good at climbing, it’s going to feel very different. X10 if you’re young, keen and relatively new to the sport. That should be obvious.
More generally, strength is obviously only potential, it has to be applied, like Liam says. The top swimmers are pretty strong in specific ways and do plenty of strength training, but just getting strong won’t stop me from drowning if I haven’t invested in technique :shrug:
-
abarro, if a 9a climber tells me I’m bad at some specific technique or other, I’ll take it on the chin and look to improve, no problem. If the same person tells me I’m basically not good at climbing
What if they tell you you're bad at the specific technique of climbing up things :lol:
I'm genuinely surprised people are so sensitive about this, maybe I'm just out of touch? If Patxi told me I was over strong and shit I wouldn't find it offensive, I'd find it interesting. Actually his mate did basically tell me I was over strong and a bit shit compared to Patxi and Gonzalo; it didn't seem very offensive, but maybe it's all a context/tone thing, or maybe it's only inoffensive when it aligns with what you already know to be true on some level?
-
And Nick the whole over sensitive thing is getting boring, welcome to the real world where people have differing levels of sensitivity to things, shock horror I know
Yes, you're right, it is really boring....
Thanks for the additional context, much more interesting than all the hand wringing over causing offense.
Would you really, if you came across a series of posts made by people that you don't know discussing one of your videos and taking the piss out of you, see that as truth-based guidance for your improvement?
I don't think anyone's taken the piss here. Alex wasn't directly saying Shaun is shit at climbing, he said he couldn't stop thinking about how he couldn't imagine being that strong and not climbing very hard. Clearly based on Carlos' additional context there are all sorts of other factors. Let's explore those and talk about how big an influence those are, and therefore how obviously wrong Alex (and Yetix, and I) are, with our assumption that strong fingers mean climbing is easy. If anything, that'll be helpful for Shaun if he's reading.
-
I do find it funny that being strong for the grade is looked down upon, whereas being weak for the grade is somehow more noble. If I had to choose, i'd rather be strong for the grade. Being stronger generally means better injury prevention, better health, better transfer to other activities, not looking weedy in normal everyday life, etc...
It drives mad thinking about myself as a 'weak climber' just because I test poorly on a 20mm dangle whilst being relatively strong in literally every other muscle group / exercise I've tested!
-
This thread has taken a truly amazing turn…. I can’t resist, sorry.
Obviously I’m old and a dinosaur, I’d like to think I’ve a relatively open mind I’ve traveled a lot and seen a lot of shit, I’ve experienced most strata ‘s of life, I’ve had friends die from overdoses and locked up for murder, I also have friends who are insanely privileged, so I’d like to think my view doesn’t come from a sheltered or overly naive place but…..
Does the privileged western world which we all live in need to toughen up a bit? Resilience is a very good thing, is blowing smoke up the yoof of todays arses and worrying about offending people all the time going a bit far, don’t get me wrong it’s my generation which started to do this, and I’m on board with it to a certain degree, but are we going too far… we are social animals, millions of years of evolution have led to hierarchy’s of one form or another, you need to know where you stand… you need to be realistic and you need to take criticism. Im not surprised there’s a huge problem with young people feeling depressed and worthless, they think everyone is equal…. They aren’t that’s not the world we have created or live in…. Does everyone need to man/woman the fuck up a bit, because if the Russians were heading up the M6 I don’t think people have the grit to stop them anymore, and that’s on us!!
Sorry in advance to anyone I might have offended…. Feel free to pile on, I’ve got a pretty thick skin. I always say this but I’m genuinely interested what other people think, don’t hold back on my account I think I can take it.
-
What I'd be a bit baffled about is why would you put a video of something like this out there and then be accepting of praise/admiration etc. but somehow not expect that you might receive the opposite (in today's social media world)? OK, if someone is actively nasty then that's not on, but as per the other thread, saying something along the lines of 'you're way too strong for your ability' is just fact.
Im not surprised there’s a huge problem with young people feeling depressed and worthless, they think everyone is equal…. They aren’t that’s not the world we have created or live in….
Things like this are fairly fundamental:
https://x.com/jburnmurdoch/status/1746506285254603067?s=20
https://x.com/jburnmurdoch/status/1746506288287121720?s=20
are why the younger generation are depressed.
-
Can we topic split this please? This thread is about legendary feats of fingerboard, of which we have posted, there’s 0 point in discussing his climbing ability because that’s not what this thread is about.
Could easily split this into “old man yells at cloud” thread if you want to discuss young people being too sensitive or whatever
-
Lattice bouldering training programme, soloing on Lliwedd
My one attempt at soloing on Lliwedd ended with me backing off a move on a Victorian VDiff that I swear was solid 5a. A Lattice bouldering training programme might have helped
-
Can we topic split this please? This thread is about legendary feats of fingerboard, of which we have posted, there’s 0 point in discussing his climbing ability because that’s not what this thread is about.
Could easily split this into “old man yells at cloud” thread if you want to discuss young people being too sensitive or whatever
How dare you call me old…. I can call myself that, but fucking hell…. Maybe my skins not as thick as I thought!!
Nothing if not predictable…. Obvs you are right! Thread split is a great idea, I think you’ve coined a great thread title right there…
-
"Kids these days," A UKB Experience
-
"Kids these days," A UKB Experience
It's not all that new. When I started climbing I remember getting quickly (with 3 years?) up to F7b+ sport and 7A boulder outside. I was just getting into trad and could only climb E1, I remember roosting on the long dead Scottish limbs forums, looking for suggestions for routes to help my trad progression and I got a range of comments along the lines.
"why are you pissing around on E1s, if I had that level of ability I'd be on E5/6."
I guess it's difficult to view things from the perspective of others where you're in totally different places.
P.s. I thought at the time they we bonkers and could not see how I could even consider E4, far less E5. Now I get it...
-
Climbing is absolutely riddled with miserable old farts so that hardly surprises me lol
-
In an attempt to bring this back on track....
I see the biggest numbers seem to come from pickuos/lifts, not hangs.
Is that a safety/practicality thing, or does the rest of the chain (shoulder etc) becoming the limiting point for hangs?
-
Climbing is absolutely riddled with miserable old farts so that hardly surprises me lol
They weren't miserable, they were really nice folks! Just we were at other ends of the spectrum and our perspectives were poles apart.
-
Lattice bouldering training programme, soloing on Lliwedd
My one attempt at soloing on Lliwedd ended with me backing off a move on a Victorian VDiff that I swear was solid 5a. A Lattice bouldering training programme might have helped
Don’t blame you, scary place, but I think Northern Yob’s coaching might be more relevant. I read yesterday about Harding and a partner walking from Helyg over Tryfan, Glydyr Fawr, down into the Pass and then back via Tryfan. They managed to take in 32 pitches en route, the last of which was Soap Gut, in the dark. This was 1930 something.
-
In an attempt to bring this back on track....
I see the biggest numbers seem to come from pickuos/lifts, not hangs.
Is that a safety/practicality thing, or does the rest of the chain (shoulder etc) becoming the limiting point for hangs?
Tbh I feel the opposite is true, but only from my own experience. In one armed lifts I'm very close to a friend of mine, but I can put a degree more overall weight on when hanging. I think lifts are maybe more objective but I feel like their limited by deadlift ability rather than finger strength.
Anecdotally I found going from two handed hangs to lifts made my fingers feel weaker and when I went back to hangs, I'd dropped in max weight.
-
If you're done with that Shaun bloke then do Tim Palmer next :popcorn:
It's OK he won't mind.
-
I stand corrected, 30 routes apparently (4th paragraph p3 here)
https://www.climbers-club.co.uk/cms/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Helyg.pdf
-
In terms of an on-topic reply, I'm of the opinion that a statement like 'having extremely strong fingers must make climbing incredibly easy' says more about the person saying it (and what they feel they lack) than about the person being spoken about. It feels a bit like when shorties who are fed up of not being able to reach holds say say things like 'everything must be easy if you're tall', and the lanksters go to great pains to explain how hard sit starts are with long legs and how awful being heavy is and how difficult fitting into a small box is, and saying they wished they had short legs and were light and could fit into small boxes as then everything would feel easy...
As someone whose PB on a two-armed hang on a 20mm edge is 32 kg (just under 150% BW), I regularly see people busting out one-armed hangs and pullups and think ‘shit, if I had that strength I’d be…’, but ultimately if I had that strength I wouldn’t be me - and maybe I’d be less technically competent (/able to make the most of the advantages I do have, as realistically I’m probably pretty shit technically). And of all the reasons I don't succeed, the fact that I can't dangle off a bit of wood for longer or with more weight attached is so far down the list as compared to basic things like not resting enough, having inefficient beta, getting in my own head because I have to do it now because the weather craps out tomorrow and so I want it too much and climb like shit, and a million other things that have nothing to do with strength but everything to do with ability.
-
Not sure it counts as legendary but I managed a 76.5kg lift left with my left hand :-\ am also crap at climbing
-
Not sure it counts as legendary but I managed a 76.5kg lift left with my left hand :-\ am also crap at climbing
Realistically, you aren't. A lot of people would love to climb at your level.
-
Just thought I’d get in there preemptively before Alex does :P
-
Lol
-
In the case I was thinking of, the guy was absolutely devastated. My impression was that he had mixed motivations. He liked strength training and revelled in his mastery of that. He also had climbing aspirations and felt affinity for the climbing community (whatever that is). Anyway, the online commentary about how his strength feats demonstrated climbing ineptitude, upset him so much that he deleted all copies of all videos he had and caused him to view "the climbing community" as being cruel and alienating.
Even things said with a friendly good natured intention can be taken really badly.
This can be split into the other thread, and I say this as a card carrying member of the labour party, who considers himself left wing, a trans ally, a feminist, generally a social democrat and very anti the culture wars. I'm also not old!
But if all that's true he was massively overreacting and should have got a grip. Devastated? Cruel? Give me a break!
-
If you're done with that Shaun bloke then do Tim Palmer next :popcorn:
It's OK he won't mind.
You got beef with Palmstrong? He’s pretty handy on the rocks
-
I’m one of the finger strength weirdos so feel like I can reasonably contribute here.
I’ve had freakishly strong fingers since starting climbing and could one arm the Lattice rung whilst climbing f7c (routes). My PB on 20mm is +85kg with an 83kg bodyweight at the time.
One armed PB is +13.5 so 93.5kg total at the time.
Basically all this says to me is that finger strength is just one element of many important strength elements in climbing. I just don’t need to train edge strength because it’s not a limiting factor. My training needs to concentrated on the areas that feel hard and that I want to improve in, simple as that.
Barrows isn’t being particularly mean, just not very constructive. That being said it’s not his job to be constructive and I personally benefited from a few people saying ‘wtf go train something else’.
I do think it’s a bit silly to say ‘why aren’t you climbing 9b’ because it’s not a useful question. Clearly there is another gap. The useful information there is that you no longer need to train fingerboard to make progress.
-
If you're done with that Shaun bloke then do Tim Palmer next :popcorn:
It's OK he won't mind.
You got beef with Palmstrong? He’s pretty handy on the rocks
From what I've seen I'd expected him to find all outdoor climbing a bore. The holds are never small enough.
-
It feels a bit like when shorties [...]
Except it's very obviously not like that at all. Don't take too much offense, but you are crap at analogies :tease:
-
The way I see it is that posting videos effectively showing off how strong you are is pretty lame. A bit like a gym bro flexing their biceps. What deserves respect is actually being a good outdoor climber. If someone has climbed to a competent level (whatever personal level that my be) and they've got there through good movement on the rock and mental control, then that's far more impressive than just because they're far stronger than their peers. If you're ridiculously strong but 'only' redpoint 7c say, then you can't deny it shows shortcomings in them as an actual climber, they're just genetically gifted or dedicated to training.
-
The way I see it is that posting videos effectively showing off how strong you are is pretty lame. A bit like a gym bro flexing their biceps. What deserves respect is actually being a good outdoor climber. If someone has climbed to a competent level (whatever personal level that my be) and they've got there through good movement on the rock and mental control, then that's far more impressive than just because they're far stronger than their peers. If you're ridiculously strong but 'only' redpoint 7c say, then you can't deny it shows shortcomings in them as an actual climber, they're just genetically gifted or dedicated to training.
THIS IS A THREAD ABOUT LEGENDARY FEATS OF FINGERBOARD.
Not sure I could scream this louder over the internet.
-
Well he didn't post it did he, someone else did, in answer to the question posed by the thread
-
It feels a bit like when shorties [...]
Except it's very obviously not like that at all. Don't take too much offense, but you are crap at analogies :tease:
I’ll restate my point a little, and if you read it and still think the analogy is crap then explaining why would probably be more of a contribution to the discussion than condescension.
I think that the people who most often say 'having extremely strong fingers must make climbing incredibly easy' are the ones with naturally weak fingers who are unlikely to ever progress into the ‘strong fingers’ camp, and that there's a grass is always greener, not appreciating what you have effect at play. You can get massively bogged down here in grit wizard/board moron archetypes and the ideas that the former has had to learn how to levitate up things while the latter just grabs holds and swings about but couldn’t climb a f4 slab in Font, but my basic argument is that if you’re a naturally weak climber, that weakness has defined you and how you climb, and so looking at someone who is naturally strong and saying ‘well if I had their finger strength I’d be climbing x grade’ assumes you live in a universe where you could just do a finger + tendon transplant, and ignores the fact that a) you’re different climbers in different bodies and b) at the end of the day climbing is about much more than strong fingers.
To my mind that’s analogous to short/tall climbers whining about not being the opposite because both involve focusing only on the benefits of being the other thing, and ignoring both the drawbacks of that thing and the benefits that they themselves have, all the while reductively ascribing other people’s successes and failures to that one physical trait and overlooking the broader, multifaceted nature of climbing.
-
The way I see it is that posting videos effectively showing off how strong you are is pretty lame. A bit like a gym bro flexing their biceps. What deserves respect is actually being a good outdoor climber. If someone has climbed to a competent level (whatever personal level that my be) and they've got there through good movement on the rock and mental control, then that's far more impressive than just because they're far stronger than their peers. If you're ridiculously strong but 'only' redpoint 7c say, then you can't deny it shows shortcomings in them as an actual climber, they're just genetically gifted or dedicated to training.
That's a judgement. I didn't start the thread asking who the best climber in the world was, or saying the big numbers on an edge were useful / worth doing / cool / beneficial for climbing harder.
I just wanted to see MASSIVE GYM BROS FLEXING THEIR BICEPS. :punk:
Genuinely just wanted to see what the big numbers were.
-
It feels a bit like when shorties [...]
Except it's very obviously not like that at all. Don't take too much offense, but you are crap at analogies :tease:
I’ll restate my point a little, and if you read it and still think the analogy is crap then explaining why would probably be more of a contribution to the discussion than condescension.
God, can no one take any sort of piss taking any more . MukbGA.
It's a bad analogy because being either tall or short has both inherent advantages and disadvantages (strength to weight and reach). There's no getting away from that. Having strong fingers does not have an inherent disadvantage or downside. It's more like having a big ape index than being tall/short.
-
God, can no one take any sort of piss taking any more .
Most people can. The Shaun guy who you were commenting about probably can. Most likely you caused no offence to anyone.
I only mentioned that old case because the guy had been so profoundly upset and also because, knowing the people he was so upset by, I'm sure it was entirely inadvertent. It all seemed such an avoidable emotional trainwreck.
-
It feels a bit like when shorties [...]
Except it's very obviously not like that at all. Don't take too much offense, but you are crap at analogies :tease:
I’ll restate my point a little, and if you read it and still think the analogy is crap then explaining why would probably be more of a contribution to the discussion than condescension.
God, can no one take any sort of piss taking any more . MukbGA.
It's a bad analogy because being either tall or short has both inherent advantages and disadvantages (strength to weight and reach). There's no getting away from that. Having strong fingers does not have an inherent disadvantage or downside. It's more like having a big ape index than being tall/short.
Strong fingers usually means sausage fingers, harder to get into pockets, that’s a disadvantage right there
-
You'll have to evidence that assertion, anecdotally it's not at all obvious to me that strong fingers correlate with large fingers
-
Edit removed because effort
-
Lattice bouldering training programme, soloing on Lliwedd
My one attempt at soloing on Lliwedd ended with me backing off a move on a Victorian VDiff that I swear was solid 5a. A Lattice bouldering training programme might have helped
Pretty sure this is why LH89 is on his board 4 days a week, to have that in reserve :2thumbsup:
-
You'll have to evidence that assertion, anecdotally it's not at all obvious to me that strong fingers correlate with large fingers
Could become a new metric for lattice to measure before starting their plans :P
-
I’m one of the finger strength weirdos so feel like I can reasonably contribute here.
I’ve had freakishly strong fingers since starting climbing and could one arm the Lattice rung whilst climbing f7c (routes).
And I had the honour of belaying your first f7c didn't I!
-
I’m one of the finger strength weirdos so feel like I can reasonably contribute here.
I’ve had freakishly strong fingers since starting climbing and could one arm the Lattice rung whilst climbing f7c (routes).
And I had the honour of belaying your first f7c didn't I!
I distinctly remember the words ‘nobody is taking that one away from you’ ;D. Also me and Gaz are blown away by the idea that you wouldn’t want to eat a whole chocolate bar.
-
The way I see it is that posting videos effectively showing off how strong you are is pretty lame. A bit like a gym bro flexing their biceps. What deserves respect is actually being a good outdoor climber. If someone has climbed to a competent level (whatever personal level that my be) and they've got there through good movement on the rock and mental control, then that's far more impressive than just because they're far stronger than their peers. If you're ridiculously strong but 'only' redpoint 7c say, then you can't deny it shows shortcomings in them as an actual climber, they're just genetically gifted or dedicated to training.
As much as I love slagging off strong people, posing people, instawhore people, etc etc, this is quite off the mark on two counts. Firstly, see the thread title (and feel free to start a "Legendary Feats Of Sublime Balance And Poise" or "Legendary Feets Of Precise Footwork"). Secondly the strength videos are not about people showing off their muscles and aesthetics, they're about people showing off the strength. A better comparison would be olympic lifting videos, and I think it's as fair to show off some 4-years-climbing 7C punter hanging 4xBW on a credit card as it is showing Eddie Halls 500kg DL...
(Edit: Although some entries in this thread are surely Legendary Feats Of Skin Pulp Structural Genetics...).
-
Being stronger generally means better better health ...
That, I think, is complete bollocks.
-
Being stronger generally means better better health ...
That, I think, is complete bollocks.
Its not an opinion. I can't be bothered to spend time referencing all the studies demonstrating the relationship between strength training (i.e. the way a person becomes stronger) and people living longer, healthier lives, but there are hundreds.
-
Two questions:
- i thought aerobic training is more important die health than anaerobe
- isn't it that training van no training has health benefits, but not that top sporters have netter health than People doing a regular amount of training?
-
Two questions:
- i thought aerobic training is more important die health than anaerobe
Actually, resistance training (strength training) generally appears to be better for longevity than aerobic exercise, and even more so in older people.
- isn't it that training van no training has health benefits, but not that top sporters have netter health than People doing a regular amount of training?
Possibly. Elite sports can become unhealthy for many reasons.
-
Being strong and athletic is very broadly considered very good for general health
-
Bloody hell, can we get a thread split so people can start posting videos of people hanging the 6mms as a one arm pinky mono or whatever?
Anyway: Molly Thompson-Smith doing a one armer on both sides on the small Beastmaker2000 crimps
https://www.instagram.com/p/CHdldILjwzX/
-
Bloody hell, can we get a thread split so people can start posting videos of people hanging the 6mms as a one arm pinky mono or whatever?
Anyway: Molly Thompson-Smith doing a one armer on both sides on the small Beastmaker2000 crimps
https://www.instagram.com/p/CHdldILjwzX/
Fuck yes! Nice one molly. This is what this thread is about. Yes, climbing prowess is cool but so is doing impressive shit on small edges!
Chapeau molly,!
-
Such a deep lock I thought she was going to do a muscle up!
Shit training for sliding across dual tex tho ::)
-
Oldest two person combined age for a single arm hang on a middle rung BM2000? (https://www.instagram.com/reel/C2U8qb-N1Wm/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MjM0N2Q2NDBjYg==)
Anyone would think he's been reading this thread!
-
Some proper Milo of Croton action going on there, wonder what age he will be able to keep it up to 😄
-
If little ru is anything like his dad he’s probably as big as he’s going to get
-
I did not quite 5 seconds at 98kg last summer, after doing very little fingerboarding over the preceding six months. There was a direct correlation in my climbing, in the sense that on the Font trip which followed, I failed to get to the top of much harder things than those I'd failed on earlier in the year...