UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: unclesomebody on October 25, 2006, 09:47:24 am
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Details of the problem are to be found on this page;
http://bleau.info/longsvaux/11919.html (http://bleau.info/longsvaux/11919.html) :bow:
Although it may say traverse, this is quite a logical line. I had looked at it and knew it would only be a matter of time before someone linked the moves accross the block into the other problems. The moves accross do look good. In my opinion, this is one of the best blocks in font, and certainly the one with the greatest concentration of hard problems (2 8C's, 3 8B's, etc...)
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(http://koyamada.dai.hiho.jp/images/moblog_243415.jpg)
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the gymnastic effort is obviously astounding, but do you really need to call a 3/4 problems linkup a boulder?
i think this is what leads to overgrading. real 8c bouders do not exist in my opinion, judging from what i read. and for real i mean short lines with highly powerful/precarious moves, not 15/20 moves problems.
fred nicoles testpieces in hueco have seen very very few ascents, and they are "only" 8b...the same can be said for the harder lines in uk, both on grit or limestone.
i think top notch climbers, when goin public, should be absolutely precise and honest to themselves and to the others about their achievements.
the guy can pull anyway, thats quite clear.
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real 8c bouders do not exist in my opinion
Give it time, Nibs.
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real 8c bouders do not exist in my opinion
If New Base Line is 8b+ - Then Walk Away SS is 8c, and the least said about Shadow Play the better. Its all been done to death but I think it's fair to say 8c exists. :P
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i dont know those problems, i was referring to the whole bunch of very long traverses/linkups that have been graded 8c or above, while the short 8b problems still dont get much reps, and calling everything "bouldering" just because you dont have a rope.
its the same old question about grading short routes or very long ones.
and im sure that 8c will become normal amongst powermonsters, but -just as houdini said- you need time, and need to have the 8b and 8b+ absolutely confirmed, a thing that is still to come.
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Is this the first 8c claimed in Font itself?
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No. satan helvete ss got claimed as 8c too. Its an elimanate.
Completely agree Nibs.
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Satan is not an eliminate. I completely disagree with you both. Real 8C does exist. Simply by virtue of statistics. If you assume that the model of climbing grades is approximately normally distributed, it means that there will be very very few of the top grades. Then if you look at the number of people climbing 8B, then 8B+, it would be crazy to say that 8C didn't exist. If there are 100 people worldwide climbing real 8B+ then it is HIGHLY likely there exists one person climbing 8C. Denying the existence of 8C is failing to move with the times. Koyomada knows his stuff, definitely doesn't overgrade, and is one of the most humble climbers I have ever met. I love him.
edit; I think this is the 3rd (straight up) 8C claimed in font, the second being Mécanique Elémentaire.
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im not convinced by your point, but i understand you uncle.
i dont deny the existence of sequences whose overall difficulty is 8c or above, i simply dont know any that suits into my personal idea of a boulder problem.
besides my current project... ;D ;D ;D
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Walk Away SS - Between 5 and 7 hand movements
Shadow Play - About 10 hand movements (hand movements :wank: tee hee)
These are not routes.
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no, they arent.
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Walk Away SS - Between 5 and 7 hand movements
Shadow Play - About 10 hand movements (hand movements :wank: tee hee)
These are not routes.
Shadow Play? Whats that? Gaskins?
Nibile, you can add il pirata to that list - dunno how many moves, but it cant be many. Also, Violent new breed has an 8c crux , and thats on a bloody route! :o
Having looked at them (in amazement) i wouldnt be surprised if many of gasklins' V14/15 problems end up getting much harder grades if enough people ever do them to bring a concensus. We may have to wait a long time for evolution to catch up!
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this makes me turn back to something i was thinking about just before:
seems to me that brit climbers have a much clearer idea about the differences betwenn boulders, traverses, linkups and routes than other countries' climbers.
could it be cos having less rock you have to be more precise in what you try/do, like eliminates or links, this matched with a lot of very very strong climbers pulling in that rock?
i dont know if you understand what i mean.
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dai is a beast, i would not doubt that this problem in font is 8c.
he has three videos released:
forte - dreamtime, and switzerland
wheel of life - all of australia and wheel of life
action directe - action directe and all frankenjura hard stuff.
i have seen these films and i am convinced...
oh and for those who dont believe 8c exists, go to hueco, you will see that terre merre is the worlds first 8c+ bloc. it is a new level!
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All long problems. I don't think Nibile is denying the equivalence to bloc 8c, just that much of what is done now would be better graded as routes.
As a chuffer I have a fascination with seeing somebody pull a move so sick hard that it gives children nightmares and causes cattle to be stillborn.
Maybe it's time for a return to the British obsession with power, rather than endurance. Didn't Jerry say: " endurance routes get easier, but hard moves are always hard"?
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As a chuffer I have a fascination with seeing somebody pull a move so sick hard that it gives children nightmares and causes cattle to be stillborn.
:lol: Have a wad point.
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Dai laughing I will! :lol:
(sorry...)
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oh and for those who dont believe 8c exists, go to hueco, you will see that terre merre is the worlds first 8c+ bloc. it is a new level!
What about Memento?
Memento is a pure test of power with only seven savage moves on a 45 degree overhang. The moves are so severe that initially Zangerl was unable even to hang onto a pair of crux knobs. To make matters worse, he broke one of the crucial knobs, and had to make a huge dyno to bypass the section. Finally, late in August [2005], he stuck the dyno and completed the two-year project.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6480929010685291805
(http://desnivel.com/deportes/bulder/images/zangerl_memento01.jpg)(http://desnivel.com/deportes/bulder/images/zangerl_memento02.jpg)
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he has three videos released:
forte - dreamtime, and switzerland
wheel of life - all of australia and wheel of life
action directe - action directe and all frankenjura hard stuff.
are they available in the uk?
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What UK grade would this get... HUR HUR HUR....