UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: jwi on February 29, 2020, 03:31:55 pm
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As in the subject line: I'm looking for a shoe that is good for toe-hooking but at the same time is stiff enough to stand on a small edge. I know that by going down enough in size theoretically all shoes are good for edging, but I'm too old for that.
La Sportiva Solutions are good for toe hooking but they are too soft. Other suggestions?
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A brand new pair of solutions?
Maybe scarpa instinct vs (the orange ones with the edge rubber)?
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Maybe scarpa instinct vs (the orange ones with the edge rubber)?
Thx, will take a look at those! I fear that the answer is Solution in size 40 though... Or trying another route.
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Mad rock drone?
Only just got a pair so far really like them, slightly stiffer than solutions and bloody good at toe hooks. Also fit me better but that's a personal thing
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I think it's going to be a tricky combo to make work. For me a good toe hooking shoe usually means it's nice and soft and/or a bit large so I can flex my toes up in to the toe hook.
What sort of toe hook move is it? Big slopey thing? Small and technical?
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Scarpa instinct laces (black and orange ones) are the best toe-hook shoes I've used*... I don't like them that much on small edges but many others do, so certainly will be worth a look.
* At least where the toe hook is not super shallow and terrible, at which point I find it very hard to predict which shoes will work. But they're certainly my default shoe for toe hooks
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The toe-hook is on a big flat thing under a roof. It works most of the time with Miuras, but it is a little bit random, sometimes it slips. I guess I could just get stronger legs, but I would prefer to throw money at the problem instead.
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Scarpa Instinct VS
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Scarpa Instinct VS
+1. Velcro’s better than laces for toe hooks on me. Toes seem to stick out more.
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Scarpa Instinct VS
+1. Velcro’s better than laces for toe hooks on me. Toes seem to stick out more.
Doesn’t the toe rubber peel off those after a few goes of toe hooking?!
Maybe an Anasazi Pro? Although sounds like a brand new pair of Solutions is probably the answer!
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Scarpa Instinct VS
+1. Velcro’s better than laces for toe hooks on me. Toes seem to stick out more.
Doesn’t the toe rubber peel off those after a few goes of toe hooking?!
Nope. Got my original 6(?) year old pair upstairs resoled twice and alright. Hole in the leather knuckle though. But that’s ok after 2 soles of use...
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Scarpa Booster? Almost Stix toe, can edge, good heel.
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Scarpa Instinct VS
+1. Velcro’s better than laces for toe hooks on me. Toes seem to stick out more.
Doesn’t the toe rubber peel off those after a few goes of toe hooking?!
No only in specific circumstances and repeated abuse.
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Scarpa Booster? Almost Stix toe, can edge, good heel.
I like the look of these.. but not for £140. When they are discounted I’ll try them.