UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: groovedog on July 31, 2009, 09:04:53 am
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Are these going to be no more? Got a pair a few months ago (cheap from Rock and Run) and think they're amazing now I hear they are stoppin making them? :(
Is this the case?
Does anyone know where there are any cheap 43's knocking about? seems most places sold out... the works rockrun etc
anyone in the know?
Are the Magos the lace up version? and are they more closer to the Stix than the booster? tried the booster but felt quite different to the stix?
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graeme says no
43.5 left (http://climbingworks.com/shop/footwear/Scarpa_Stix/)
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I've a pair of size 45 if anyone wants them - never been used, just tried on...35 quid delivered?
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45?!?!? With feet that big no wonder you don't need to take your top off at the wall!
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I've a pair of size 45 if anyone wants them - never been used, just tried on...35 quid delivered?
try ukc....sold mine in 2 days of posting them up for sale
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cheers, will look into that... :)
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Does anyone know what the Sucessor to the Stix is? My rock and run bargains are starting to fall apart.
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size 45 - that's 10.5 UK isn't it? How do they fit? I'm a 10 in street shoes and my evolv's are a uk 11.
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(http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/0/429500-large_vapor.JPG) (http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/5/429425-large_instinct.JPG)
The replacements appear to be these, the vapor and spectra lines, due out early next year,
-linked from here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Gear_and_Reviews/Outdoor_Retailer_Summer_09_Day_1_1051.html (http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Gear_and_Reviews/Outdoor_Retailer_Summer_09_Day_1_1051.html) the Instinct S looks like the shoe Dave Macleod's wearing in this clip: Dave Macleod training at home (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K1bj-cldkOs&feature=player_embedded#)
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Nice colours, same guy's who've just painted Stockport new bouldering wall?
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On the bright side, it'll probably mean that Rock and Run get more cheap Scarpa's in the future :great:
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Bring on the internet bargain bins!
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Thread resurrection!
My trusty old Stix V2s are my go-to shoes for warming up, easier circuits and slabby/frictiony problems. I'll be bereft when they bite the dust. Anyone got any good similar slipper recommendations for a replacement?
What are the Instinct SR slippers like?
I've got some Instinct VSRs but while being soft they feel a bit too pointy and downturned for proper slabby smeary stuff.
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I find the Instinct SR to be more edgy with less feel than the Stix V2. If you try exxpozed.co.uk they may have a size left to fit.
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Interesting that you find the Stix more smeary than the VSRs. The Stix is the most downturned shape, with the most aggressive toe box angle. Fair enough it's a minimal sole, and it's Grip2, but it's still geared towards steeper ground.
For a smeary, paddy shoe, the softline range (Drago, Furia, Chimera) are worth a look, as is the new Veloce, which shares a midsole with the Drago/Furia S, but has a non-Vibram sole. S72 is made by the same company who do the softline's toe hooking section. It's a touch softer than Grip2, but thicker so should last longer. It's a totally different shape though, so the Drago may feel more familiar.
Alternatively, just get the Stix resoled. Torquil uses 3.5mm Grip2.
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I’m a fan of the SR slipper. It’s my regular shoe. It’s not as good on edges as the harder rubber in VS’s - but works well in a range of conditions. The heel is ok but not brilliant - though I think that’s an issue for nearly all slippers.
SR’s are also often cheap. I’ve got my last two pairs for £75 waiting for the right epic tv/go outdoors/wherever offer to come along.
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Don't get me wrong, I like the SR, but it works differently to the Stix. It is better for edging and the stiffer insole is great on tiny holds.
For me the Stix toe is overall the better as it grabs more on steeper ground but as it's softer also smears better (once well broken in). Also the Stix heel is more aggressive and feels more secure, less likely to pull off.
Now if Scarpa were to make a Stix, with Velcro fasteners and full heel cup it would (for my foot anyway) be the ultimate shoe.
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Thread resurrection!
Anyone got any good similar slipper recommendations for a replacement?
Scarpa resole surface? https://www.scarpa.co.uk/resole-service/ I've heard good things
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I've had a set of booster s shoes resoled at feet first in chesterfield recently. I've gotta say I think the service is superb and they did a fantastic job.
As I'm sure others have said I think if you're gonna go down this route then don't leave it too long. once the sole wears through and your starting to climb on the rand just take them in for a resole you won't regret it. They can do toe patches if you've gone through the rand as well.
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Ok, cheers. Resoling is still an option so I might go for that for now.
My issue with the VSRs for slabby smeary ground is more to do with the narrow toe shape. I just cant get as much rubber in contact with the rock as with my well worn Stix. I wonder, would a well worn SR feel like a well worn Stix?
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Never worn stix Gaz so cant comment.
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Ok, cheers. Resoling is still an option so I might go for that for now.
My issue with the VSRs for slabby smeary ground is more to do with the narrow toe shape. I just cant get as much rubber in contact with the rock as with my well worn Stix. I wonder, would a well worn SR feel like a well worn Stix?
I still use the old green Stix as my board shoes and for occasional smeary stuff on the grit. Although they started off with a very aggressive shape, they have flattened considerably over time. Never tried the V2 Stix.
I like the Instinct SRs but they aren't a like for like replacement. They maintain a more pointy toe and are better at edging than the Stix and remain pretty good for hooking for a slipper (my Stix maintain decent tension to the toe but would slip straight off if I used a heel) but I prefer the Stix for toeing in on small holds on steep terrain and for smearing. The shape of the SR toe box is also different. It isn't as wide as the Instinct VS/VSR last but it is deeper which I find keeps your toes at a more aggressive, crimped angle (not ideal for smearing).
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When they first “disappeared” I was told they’ll still be available in Europe, just not in the UK anymore. I love them too!
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Depending on your size, you may still be able to get a pair of Stix at a reasonable price from trekinn.
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Thanks again all. From all I've read I'm not tempted by the SRs as a Stix replacement so it's resole or newies, or a punt at something else.
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For a smeary, paddy shoe, the softline range (Drago, Furia, Chimera) are worth a look, as is the new Veloce, which shares a midsole with the Drago/Furia S, but has a non-Vibram sole. S72 is made by the same company who do the softline's toe hooking section. It's a touch softer than Grip2, but thicker so should last longer. It's a totally different shape though, so the Drago may feel more familiar.
I had a try on of a few of these at a recent demo day. Sadly only at the wall, but I loved the sensitivity of them and though they would be great on smears and rounded but frictiony footholds a la grit or sandstone . Sadly can't remember which one i liked most, would need a retrial!
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Having tried a pair of the new Boosters at a demo session at my local wall, I can say they feel like...
The Stix V2 with Velcro fasteners and a great heel :punk:
But at 145 sheets they ain't cheap.
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Interesting. I'll start to look at the options for remortgaging the house...
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The Stix V2 with Velcro fasteners and a great heel :punk:
But at 145 sheets they ain't cheap.
Give it a couple of months and they'll be down to a ton.
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For a smeary, paddy shoe, the softline range (Drago, Furia, Chimera) are worth a look, as is the new Veloce, which shares a midsole with the Drago/Furia S, but has a non-Vibram sole. S72 is made by the same company who do the softline's toe hooking section. It's a touch softer than Grip2, but thicker so should last longer. It's a totally different shape though, so the Drago may feel more familiar.
I had a try on of a few of these at a recent demo day. Sadly only at the wall, but I loved the sensitivity of them and though they would be great on smears and rounded but frictiony footholds a la grit or sandstone . Sadly can't remember which one i liked most, would need a retrial!
I really like the Chimera for grit. Soft and sensitive rubber, so great for smeary, frictiony footholds, but also with an additional bit of strengthening through the mid-sole of the shoe which makes standing on pebbles and moderate edges a realistic prospect.
For really steep ground suspect the Drago or Furia is probably a bit better but as an all rounder the Chimera is great.
That said, go-to shoe for almost everything is the VSR. They just fit my feet perfectly and that combined with the grip2 rubber makes them pretty much perfect for most of the bouldering I do.
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That's interesting.. I like the Chimera for steep stuff, especially "toeing in" on holds on a board or steep wall, but not so much for vert (where my faves are still the old Booster S or old red instinct laces)...
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For me the shortcoming of the VS and VSR is the heel. Its alright... and its shape fits my heel well - but its a bit rounded and hard and doesnt always stick well..
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I've never had the VS but my issue with the VSR is that I don't feel like I can apply as much power through my big toe as I can in other less 'pointy' shoes. But I've got the instinct lace and they're my preferred board shoe for shitty jibs on steep ground.
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For me the shortcoming of the VS and VSR is the heel. Its alright... and its shape fits my heel well - but its a bit rounded and hard and doesnt always stick well..
What's your go to shoe for heel hooking?
The VS fits my foot and heel perfectly which no other shoe does but I can count on one hand the number of heel hooks in the past few years where I have preferred the heel of any other shoe over that of the VS.
I regularly reach for other shoes when I want to toe in on something steep or want something more sensitive but for heel hooks and toe hooks I go for the VS, almost without exception.
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For me the shortcoming of the VS and VSR is the heel. Its alright... and its shape fits my heel well - but its a bit rounded and hard and doesnt always stick well..
What's your go to shoe for heel hooking?
I don’t have one any more! But I used to find the heel on Dragons the best - not necessarily because of the fit bit as they had a narrow bead of sole or sticky rubber down the middle. The scarpa vs/vsr have a wide thin strip - that on mine at least gets flappy at the edges. Simply it’s not as precise.
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But at 145 sheets they ain't cheap.
Same RRP as Solution, Otakit, Kataki and Skwarma? £5 less than the Testarossa? £10 less than the Futura or Genius?
Hate to say it, but these are the prices things cost now. All the shoes mentioned are made in Italy, and genuinely handcrafted by experts.
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I’d agree that shoes are expensive but buying well made Italian ones ends up cheaper as they resole so well. I don’t wear Scarpa but I’ve a pair of Otakis that I have had resoled 4 maybe 5 times? Had to have the rand done which I have found spells the end for a shoe but Llanberis resoles did a brill job and they are good enough for pretty much everything at the wall.
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Also I've never actually paid anywhere near the RRP for a pair of shoes. Online competition generally keeps a pretty firm lid on prices.
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they are good enough for pretty much everything at the wall.
Doesn't that translate to "as good as beaten up old shoes that could do with resoling and have been retired to wall shoes" :lol:
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Ha maybe but they are on their 4th resole! I have worn them out and about on the grit but mainly for warming up. They are good for padding around doing easier/sneakier stuff.
When they are on 1st 2nd and 3rd resole I think they are still really good. Usually have edge on 1st resole then grip thereafter. Climbed art of white hat wearing in a 2nd resole pair and I’m sure some other stuff!
Surely you get your shoes resoled!? So nice to have loads of rubber but broken in shoes. I find it hard to wear new shoes these days as I can’t bear to break them in!
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So nice to have loads of rubber but broken in shoes.
:agree: Better than new. It’s only in recent years that I realised that the trick is to get them done as early as possible- in the past I’d always had to get the rands done too which fucks them up.
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I never get on with resoles, I think once the midsole has gone, then I don’t get any performance out of the shoes. I guess maybe because I wear slippers rather than lace?
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I never get on with resoles, I think once the midsole has gone, then I don’t get any performance out of the shoes. I guess maybe because I wear slippers rather than lace?
Possibly. My hardest climbing (and, yes I know it's not hard in any larger sense) has been done in resoled Sportiva Miura VSs. They have the "P3" platform with a midsole that keeps their rigid curviness pretty well after a resole. So, a resole is like having a niceley broken-in pair - a decent edge but without the pain of breaking them in. My resoles on less rigid shoes have been less successful. Slippers and Miura lace-ups have always felt like clown shoes once broken in, and resoling doesn't improve the matter.
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I never get on with resoles, I think once the midsole has gone, then I don’t get any performance out of the shoes. I guess maybe because I wear slippers rather than lace?
I’m with Tim here - never had a set I feel are ok.
I tend to have a pair or two in the box ready - so if I spy a online or second hand (here) deal I snap them up. A resole is now £40-50 inc postage - and I’ve picked up my last few pairs for £60-80.
Maybe I should try different resolers.
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Can’t see much difference between Torquil’s resoles and new tbh. Scarps say their boots are intended to be resoled. They can do them for you in Italy for £60 but list Llanberis Resoles as an official resoler which is £45 inc p+p
https://www.scarpa.co.uk/resole-service/
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Can’t see much difference between Torquil’s resoles and new tbh. Scarps say their boots are intended to be resoled. They can do them for you in Italy for £60 but list Llanberis Resoles as an official resoler which is £45 inc p+p
https://www.scarpa.co.uk/resole-service/
Torquil does an amazing job. I've used him three times now.
What I would say is the difference between Torquil and Italy, is that when Italy resole, it's a full refurbishment. All the rubber parts come off, and all get replaced. The sole rubber, the tensioned rand, the toe rand, the heel cup etc etc etc. Pretty sure it then gets a steam clean (certainly come back smelling better than when they left), and get rebuilt on the original last, so the inner fits your foot perfectly, but the shoe is essentially brand new. Better than new in fact.
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I used a pair of instinct laces yesterday for the first time (been in a box for a while) and thought they were subtly different from the VS - in a good way! Slightly better fit for me (maybe the laces mean a better volume adjustment). Well impressed (so far).
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Can’t see much difference between Torquil’s resoles and new tbh. Scarps say their boots are intended to be resoled. They can do them for you in Italy for £60 but list Llanberis Resoles as an official resoler which is £45 inc p+p
https://www.scarpa.co.uk/resole-service/
Torquil does an amazing job. I've used him three times now.
I had a handful of instincts and anasazis resoled by Llanberis Resoles and I don't think any shoe made it to 10 sessions without starting to peel quite badly. I'm pretty sure some went on the first session! Needlessly to say I haven't gone back to them.
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toe dragger!
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toe dragger!
:guilty:
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The only peeling I’ve ever had is on the side of the resole (towards the back so no issue for climbing)
On his website Torquil does say I you have issues in the first x amount of time you should get in touch.
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The only peeling I’ve ever had is on the side of the resole (towards the back so no issue for climbing)
On his website Torquil does say I you have issues in the first x amount of time you should get in touch.
It's also worth noting that when Scarpa stick the sole on, they use a massive pneumatic press (not to mention the riduculous glue - they've got about 7 seconds after heating to get it stuck in the right place, and put into the press - plus the massive heater which heats the glue up to the exact correct temperature) which the entire shoe goes in to. I've not seen his workshop, but I doubt Torquil (or any other resoler for that matter) would be able to use the same setup, because without the correct last inside, the shoe itself would get deformed and come back unwearable.