UKBouldering.com
places to visit => abroad => Topic started by: Muenchener on September 27, 2016, 02:51:14 pm
-
Got a long weekend coming up, and my climbing partner is keen to go to the City of Rocks. The one at the Sella Pass not the one in Idaho.
Anybody been? Nibs? Any tips / must do's in the mid sixes to mid sevens?
-
Nothing to recommend but I've got the guide to the area and my friends had an afternoon there back in 2013 and enjoyed it, I missed out on climbing there as I'd fallen off downclimbing the start of the Messner Route on the second Sella Tower and fractured my heel (only avulsion so after three days rest I just went climbing anyway).
If I recall you're keen on the longer Dolomites routes, so if you can convince your climbing partner the Messner Route is (supposedly) amazing, mates went back whilst I was resting and did it. The Vinatzer on the third tower is really good too as is the Vinatzer (/South-West Deidre) on Piz Civazes. The other route that stood out which I've done round there was the Tissi on the 1st Tower, if you like chimneys the first pitch is great fun, if not I think it can be avoided and the remaining pitches are good.
-
If you've got the guidebook, the sectors of Roadkill, Guerrilla and Mecca are nice and steep.
If you haven't got the guidebook, just go around the boulders and throw the pad under what seems good, because it will be good.
Steep pocket and crimp pulling, very enjoyable. The sectors of Guerrilla and Mecca are below the wide path that goes around the Sassolungo, under the cablecar, just a few minutes from the car park.
In these sectors I've mentioned there's loads to do from 6a on.
Small but useful topo here http://www.planetmountain.com/rock/dolomiti/cittasassi/01.html (http://www.planetmountain.com/rock/dolomiti/cittasassi/01.html)
Oh and don't listen to Slackers. Go bouldering. Then go have something to eat and drink at the Malga Sella, a few minutes down the road towards Selva di Val Gardena from Cittą dei Sassi.
Enjoy! I'm envious!
-
If you've got the guidebook, the sectors of Roadkill, Guerrilla and Mecca are nice and steep.
Thanks. Will stop by the DAV library on my way to or from work one day.
-
The last time I was there I didn't have a guide and just wandered around trying stuff, well, that was untill I heard power screams of doom emanating from some cave nearby - "that must be Nibs" I thought. It was.
I thought the climbing was pretty good, and in the shade the temps are quite nice.
The Messner route is very good.
-
Definitely lots of the longer routes around there that I'd like to do as well, but this time it's definitely a sport climbing trip.
-
Nice memories those, Fulton, really. I didn't manage the problem sadly, that shouldery drop down move gave me a serious beating. Haven't gone back since, a nightmarish Summer of study and work kept me busy. Hopefully a couple of trips before the snow now.
-
The last time I was there I didn't have a guide and just wandered around trying stuff, well, that was untill I heard power screams of doom emanating from some cave nearby - "that must be Nibs" I thought. It was.
:lol:
Wadded
-
I was trying hard!
;D