UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Bonjoy on May 26, 2004, 09:58:47 am
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From Planetfear news:
"Mo Overfield added another boulder problem to the Peak on Saturday. It's at Yarncliffe of all places, and is the ideal post work problem being just two minutes stroll from your car.
Them! is V10 or 11, and named after the B&W B-Movie about giant ants, you'll see what he means if you go to Yarncliffe…
It takes the arête and wall the other side of Crème de la Crème, via old bolt head, pocket and undercut to ledge. Jump off. Quite highball, but the landing is excellent, being on grass. It's a real five star classic.
Also to keep records straight, he did another mini problem on the Intense buttress at Burbage South. I'm Tense, V8, starts in the obvious pocket, goes up and left via undercut and tiny sidepull to finish with both hands on juggy ledge. "
And from the man himself:
"I can hand on heart say it is of the highest quality, and well worth stopping off to do. You are right the Grove was a complete piece of crap, and I should really know better, the trouble is it was the only thing around at the time of Foot and Mouth. Hopefully it will drift into obscurity.
Seriously, though, Them! is five stars, every move is tricky on really solid rock above a lovely grassy landing. The only thing is that it uses an old bolt head for a hold, so I suppose that it counts as a point of aid? The second ascent still awaits, so if you go and do it let me know what grade you think it is as I am rubbish at grading."
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as I am rubbish at grading
he can say that again :lol: hard bouldering at yarncliffe, whatever next!
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Aid on boulder problems, whatever next!!
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This has now been freed! I'll let the youth himself spill the beans. Well good effort by James!
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yeah I heard that too. And even removing the aid point, he don't reckon it ain't no mo than V9...
if this continues, Mase n P diddy will be releasin a follow up... 'mo overgrade, mo problems'.... 'yo tell me who's hot who's not...'
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No hate campaign, just fancied a crack. This was a good problem, would be a very good problem if not for the varnishy??? substance on the lower arete.
I was wanting to keep it quiet, ah well. I cant beleive how fast news got out, may i ask how you all found out (excluding uncle, as he was there).
Not got rid of the bolt yet.
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u're not strong enuf to get that bolt out :wink:
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How hard then darse? Luckily for Mo overgrading isn't a crime or he'd be doing a life sentence :D
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they wud throw away the key :lol:
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to be fair on Meaux, he's not that tall so that can account fo' a lot of grade difference. and the beard can't help.
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James isn't exactly daddy longlegs either
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aye, but i'm sure mo could get onto the kiddies rides at alton towers though.
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i just hit 500 posts and i finish uni tommorrow, its turning out to be a momentous week :8) Nearly the big 4000 for you Dave eh, you'll be able to get a t-shirt with 'sad bastard' written on it then :lol:
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you're only jealous.
maybe one day you can be this good.
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Its amazes me that everybody is prepared to take one (very strong fingered, admittedly) youth's opinion on the grade of this as gospel!
I saw James dispatch, and he thought the original version was V9, the new version sans bolt V10. This is his opinion. Both myself and the big Septic (Mr Chase) both had a 'do' on this last night and thought that its probably V10 - with or without the bolt, although using said relic is pretty bad form.
Mo originally gave the problem V10, although in his excitement up-ed the ante slightly to the mighty V11. However, he was on the money with the original grade in my opinion.
What-ever, another classic piece of esoterica for you all to try. Depressingly the first move is the crux, and if you've got big fingers it feels very hard to stick the pocket.
Grades should be formed by consensus, not by one persons opinion. Coupled with the fact that a strong fingered bouncy person like the youth is so strong he probably wouldn't know a V9 if it bit him on the arse! :wink:
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(http://www.leedsnet.com/eps/dunce.gif)
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he probably wouldn't know a V9 if it bit him on the arse!
or a v13!
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in mo's defense, not that he needs it:
he thought Them! was 10-11 and it seems 10ish to me. developing consensus and all that.
and, if i remember correctly, the original (admittedly contrived) V13 sequence for the Grove was not repeated.
Slingshot hasn't exactly seen a slew of repeats either.
So easy to talk trash on the net
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My mate si went and did it today, did it swift so he thought maybe v9 but very good. Good work mo on finding a cracker!
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hmm
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think you'll find bo groove hasn't been repeated the original way cos it doesn't need to be. slingshot is at froggatt, who goes to froggatt? if this floats mo's boat fair enuf but not everyone has the same tastes. have heard new prob is ace, so nice one mo.
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ha ha nice tweak dense!
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(http://curbar.planetfear.com/climbing/news/graphics/mothem.jpg)
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yeah nice one mo, its well good, cant believe no one has mentioned it before. the climbing is ace, snatchy and of good quality.
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Fucking hell Si what you doing going rock climbing outside? You'll catch yer death of cold! Did you get locked out of the school or summat :lol:
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Fucking hell Si what you doing going rock climbing outside? You'll catch yer death of cold! Did you get locked out of the school or summat :lol:
I know yeah, he's a right cellar dwellar isn't he!
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Ladies,ladies,ladies. Wouldn't you all be better off actually going out and enjoying your own lives rather than being a big bunch of girls and slagging Mo off on your crappy computers. If you have a problem with the grading go see Mo and tell him! I notice he's not spending his time on a shit forum! Nor am i any longer because I'm off to climb for pure enjoyment regardless of the grades. Spend more time getting strong you sad wankers.
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alright bummer
Quick question: Have you actually read this thread? Judging by your last post, i'm guessing not. Worth having a read then realising why you've just made yourself look a cock.
from what i can see no-one has "slagged Mo off". In fact people went and repeated the problem and confirmed the quality. I don't know where you get off.
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Yeah!
p.s. if this hasn't gone down to steady V8 by next sping I'll eat my batty. And thats based on trying the problem. I've even heard rumours that some of the ascents of Creme de la creme started this way - bear in mind that C de la C is V6/7 and a much worse landing.
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I remember thinking that it only looked a little bit harder than the usual Creme start when I went to have a look at this route before Mo claimed it. Mind you that proves nothing!
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Alright back at you Dave! (Your My Wife Now)!
Please allow me to retort!
I'm sorry but I didn't realise comments like 'luckily for mo overgrading isn't a crime or he'd be doing a life sentence and they'd throw away the key' aren't slagging him off! How very stupid of me! It would appear that through my 28 years of life I've never grasped the concept of a compliment. I think I'm starting to get the idea now! Thanks for the compliment of calling me a cock and now I'd like to return it by calling you a shit faced cock master.
Next time I see Brian I'll tell him that he doesn't need to defend mo because he got wrong too! Oh how stupid he'll feel.
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Sorry Mr Bummer, but you've been zapped.
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it's called humour, thats why we're british not because we're born here but because we feel it is our right to abuse each other. let the good times roll. i would think that throwin away the key is just an extension of the original joke. am off to go climbin myself now then when i come back i'll play on my pc again. i find that i can't train all day, my forearms get tired. writin on a forum allows me to depump n get rid of the lactic acid :shock:
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Jesus you think thats slagging off? Thats just a bit of harmless humour (at mo's expense i accept). No ones saying he's shit or not a nice bloke cos that ain't true. Just having a giggle thats all. No offence intended.
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Alright back at you Dave! (Your My Wife Now)!
Please allow me to retort!
I'm sorry but I didn't realise comments like 'luckily for mo overgrading isn't a crime or he'd be doing a life sentence and they'd throw away the key' aren't slagging him off! How very stupid of me! It would appear that through my 28 years of life I've never grasped the concept of a compliment. I think I'm starting to get the idea now! Thanks for the compliment of calling me a cock and now I'd like to return it by calling you a shit faced cock master.
Next time I see Brian I'll tell him that he doesn't need to defend mo because he got wrong too! Oh how stupid he'll feel.
someone take the shovel off him.
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i think his username was guest
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and another thing Mo joked himself about his grading on planetfeer. Is he slagging himself off? Of course not, some people are so uptight.
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no, you're quite right. i don't know what's become of us???
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Doesn't have "joined" or any of the other beta usually stuck to a users name. I'm probably being dim as usual!
g
think he was "bummer" but then bubba deleted the profile...
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our uptight friend joined as "bumchum" or "gaylord" or something. bubb has iced him, so all his posts now appear as guest since his logon is vapourised. no-one can actually post as guests. did the same thing happen to dick ryan?
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ahh. no wonder you're a moderator dave, you know so much. bubba has taught you well :jedi:
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My fault really, I should have banned him, rather than deleting the username - hence the "guest" business. Guests can't post to any of the forums.
Banning is better because it locks that username out - since I've deleted the user, no doubt, he/she/it will sign up again as "bummer" to have more fun :roll:
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to have more fun
don't u mean mo fun :lol:
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All this talk of Mo and no mention of Mowlem, what's the world coming to?
(http://images.google.com/images?q=tbn:MUhEt8t6pn0J:pgb.org.uk/pronghorn/images/mo_mowlem.jpg)
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if only we could get her into the lookalikes thread
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I've always maintained that the hottest night of sexual ecstasy possible would be a night sandwiched between Mo Mowlam and Anne Widdecombe....mmmmm.....the pumping sex......and the polictical debate :D :shock:
(http://newsfeed.tcm.ie/images/people/momowlam.jpg)(http://news.bbc.co.uk/olmedia/1510000/images/_1513699_annewiddecombe150.jpg)
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Add some glasses... and... its Plummonite!!
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god forbid :alco:
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Fuck! I mentioned a fat bird sandwich with Mo and Anne in the Cave on Monday! Quelle coincidence.
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why would you want a fat bird sandwich with mo n anne in the cave? surely a hotel would be more discrete
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Parisellas is becoming the place to be for everything these days.
Mo, Anne and a load of sheep shite - it just gets better
:puke01:
:puke02:
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The writing's on the wall for you Johnny boy :deal: You'll be getting what's coming to you :twak:
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Nah mate- I was IN the cave (which makes a change- I havn't climbed anywhere else for about a month now!). Although indeed the cave is the place to be as its raining here in N Wales, I may even go there today as I left work early from sickness- had to off load pallets in the county dump, man that place reeks I nearly chucked when I got back to the warehouse. :shock:
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Parisellas is becoming the place to be for everything these days.
all it needs is a pc in the back hooked up to UKB :lol:
the world's first internet cave, with live commentary of notable sends.....
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When I started ukb, I actually looked into the idea of stashing a webcam in the Peak as a "conditions cam" which would be wicked....but then I saw the awful costs involved :shock:
One thing that would be quite cool I reckon is:
- set up a forum that was for "current conditions"
- build and mms gateway thingy (lad at work set up a blog that polls for photos sent to a certain email address)
- then, helpful ukb folks could use a camera phone to zap the curent conditions of wherever they are climbing back to the forum.
Another thing to go on the list!
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When I started ukb, I actually looked into the idea of stashing a webcam in the Peak as a "conditions cam" which would be wicked....but then I saw the awful costs involved :shock:
i've just set one up for this shit i'm dropping at work - all in blah blah n waterproof with in built technical shit etc it all cost just shy of 2K. it's a far cry from dem bits o plastic you get at PC Word.
word.
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Is that a wired webcam? And presumably that's just for the cam? I reckon a lot of the problem with one out in the hills is the power source and wireless connection, etc.
I reckon for starters we need one at the Plantation and one in the Pass - any millionaire boulderers out there willing to donate 20k :wink:
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let me see.....418 ukb users....thats a fiver each, no worries.
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fixed camera (no pan, tilt or zoom) bout £900 ish
outdoor housing £200
new BT line and 512kb adsl several hundred more plus line rental over the year (it's a business line) blah blah.
pinched a power spur from somewhere
router thing bout £50
loads of cable n shit
you can get a remote camera for a few hundred more and a fancy camera for a few hundred more again.
let's do it.
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The only other problem is that the Peak Park would no-doubt go ape when you installed a cam up a tree at the plantation, not to mention those who would quite like to aquire such kit for free....
Where's the one you've put in for work?
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it's not live til next week but i'll let you know - it's currently in a temp location looking out a window until i can get it sorted on a roof. basically overlooks a main road and construction site. fairly boring really but works a treat.
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Yeah!
p.s. if this (THEM! @ Yarncliffe) hasn't gone down to steady V8 by next sping I'll eat my batty. And thats based on trying the problem.
Oh I can't wait to see this. Mmmmmmmm!
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Yeah I had cold fingers.
Lets see, you did it in under an hour which makes it V8 in my book. In your face Kershaw.
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Lets see, you did it in under an hour which makes it V8 in my book. In your face Kershaw.
but he climbs 8a, so if it's V8 he should probably have flashed it. i think it's time you reached for the knife and fork and did the honourable thing.